John John Florence reveals the paralysis that almost ended his career, “I couldn’t even think of standing up on a wave”

"You’re spiralling on it. You get so lost in it. I don’t know what I want to be. It’s crazy how it just stops you."

Can you believe it’s already been there years since BeachGrit outed the world champion surfer Barton Lynch as a filthy loot-the-rich Communist bastard, which you can read here, and which was swiftly refuted, here? 

Barton Lynch, an energetic sixty one year old with one fake hip and another on its way, famously clinched the 1988 world title at perfect eight-to-twelve-foot Pipeline, denying silly Tom Carroll a third crown.  

He was the sport’s most popular broadcaster before being dumped by the WSL for his role in the activist group Voices4Choices which, correctly as it turns out, questioned  vaccine mandates and the role of government during the COVID pandemic. 

Always in a good humour, Barton’s painstaking observation skills re: surfing are clear in his podcast series The Stoked Bloke. As an interviewer, he has the ability to shake loose his guests inhibitions without the need to swing a heavy hammer.

Barton allows his guests to settle into familiar foxholes while his questions circle overhead. 

Today’s interview guest John John Florence reveals the paralysis he felt amid the tension of competition. 

“You’re spiralling on it. You go to stand up on a wave in a heat and, I don’t even know what to do right now. You get so lost in it. The year before last year, I had a couple of heats where I was so tense and caught up in the storylines of what I was and the injuries, all these things mixed up. I couldn’t even move. I couldn’t even think about standing up on a wave and going, ‘I’m going to do a turn.’ What turn do I do? I don’t know what I want to be. It’s crazy how it just  stops you.”

Essential.

John John Florence 3 x World Champ on the Stoked Bloke Show
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64 Comments
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Michael Flatlately

Then again, “party hard, surf hard, everything’s fine” might’ve been the advice Dane and Kolohe needed.

Stick man

Your ego is not your amigo …ya See?

ricmatic

arent you the cunt that said LA deserved the fires?
Our very own Jerry Fallwell fuck off

ricmatic

Its cool to see Bartons metamorphoses, from somewhat conservative non descript competitor to full on character. love it. Surfed with him alot in the eighties, always gracious, helped me transform from hopelessly average, to hopefully average. good fucken guy.

Michael Flatlately

Sad hearing Dane recount that story of bolting from a contest in panic. Probably would’ve been a simple re-framing exercise away from never quite ever retiring.

Flash Gordon

Where/when did Dane say that?

Michael Flatlately

How Surfers Get Paid, maybe.

Strider's Gobble Neck

Respectfully speaking, are you retarded?

Abscessed Llama

I was just gifted three large box’s of surf mags.. May not be here for a while.. Need to move away from this beach towel drenched in woe is me surf pro sperm spew..

Sean Connery

Bro…Once all the reef ads are stuck to other pages you will be back.

SaltyHB
notsurfingtoday

JJF would be a great bodyboarder i’m sure. Do not fear the transition, oh goatee goat.

Barton Lins

Shut up

Happy Camper

fuck you and your five syllable words, Sigmund

DongWangVerga

how many of these “professionals” need hugs for the ravages of competitive professional surfing?

we are people. that means we struggle, we suffer, we lament. we hold 10,000 sorrows in our hands & hearts but also 10,000 joyful triumphs in the same places.

at a certain point, is it OK to acknowledge another’s sorrows but also inform them it’s probably for the better if they addressed them in a non-public sphere?

cuz otherwise you could end up sounding pretty fucking self-absorbed and victim-y. whilst being celebrated as such a low key humble dude.

Barrelled

I think he’s just sharing thoughts not necessarily looking for sympathy like Tyler. You don’t have to be down and out, poor, or disadvantaged to feel what he is talking about. It relative to your own situations. More about feeling weight on your shoulders, what it does to you as an individual, and how you deal with that mentally.

DongWangVerga

This is true, B. Y

deeks

Such a beautiful article . There
We don’t say that enough

Eddie Haiku

A couple of heats?
I’m still paralysed after
Forty fucking years

Happy Camper

forty will be youth
as age creeps into your bones
not so long from now

Durban Poison

Funny how the mostly stoked but often angry bloke self-owned about social media’s pull down the rabbit hole.

david fffff

Man has to consider his entire life before doing a turn. Incredible.

Dogsnuts

I fucken hate how commercial Jazzmasters are now.
Xox

janeausten

get a Jaguar, then

Dogsnuts

I do I do, I also really need to clear some clutter.
Xox

janeausten

https://uploads.disquscdn.c…
or do you prefer J Mascis?

Dogsnuts

Ha! That’s fucked!
Xox

The Bitchy Crab

Get a Mustang!

Dogsnuts

1968 in Competition Blue lives under the bed! Guitar tech has banned me from dragging it around!
Oh I have a blacked out Japanese Mustang too.
Three Jazzmasters now of varying pedigree.
One filthy Jaguar which is my one true love!
Xox

Happy Camper

in 1968 my father bought me a Gibson Les Paul.
I no longer have it. Garage sale bargain.
I’ll leave to there.

Jags a beauty.

Beef & Beer

As long as ya amp goes to twelve

https://uploads.disquscdn.c…
that’s one more than eleven…

Eddie Haiku

I blame Tom Verlaine
For making that wretched axe
Sound so fucking good

Dogsnuts

Gosh we are amongst good people here. Blows my mind.
Xox

ricmatic

my friend has played one forever, finally took the neck off and found it was made on his birthday

Otto

We are so back!

NEGATRON

Glad to see Trump let you comment again. Its been awhile!

Otto

He’s a Swellian guy, that President Trump.

Chief Hot stuff

And back better!!

Dogsnuts

Are still eating the pets?
Cunty if true!
Xox

Otto

Do I look Haitian?

Dogsnuts

You kind of do a bit! What’s better, dog or cat?!
Xox

Otto

Well, I’d get the dog to eat the cat, then I’d eat the dog. Michelin Star worthy Haitian take on the turducken

Dogsnuts

Hahaha, you are fucked up.
Xox

deeks

You disease you . Thank God you’re back

Otto

It’s a chronic condition

Barrelled

Why now?

Otto

To Make Beach Grit Great Again.

Com Turren

What was it like for you cumming 24/7 every single day since November 5th though?

Otto

Invigorating.
And I don’t have any spare tissues left for your tears flowing 24/7 since November 5th. Just use your sleeve.

Com Turren

I guess the difference is that I accepted the results of the election and didn’t storm the Capitol on January 6th. Congratulations on your recent pardon though.

Otto

Biden pardoned everyone that’s voted for him since 2014. I know you’re counting your blessings for that.

Com Turren

If I’d ever actually voted for Biden, I might be grateful for that.

Otto

Did you vote for Kamala?

Com Turren

Vote for someone who made the call to suppress exculpatory evidence when she was in the San Francisco DA’s office? Nope. Voted for myself like I have in every other election.

Otto

You’re more like President Trump than you might be willing to admit. He voted for himself too.

Com Turren

Except that I’m competent at what I do

Otto

That’s for us to decide

Derek Hynd's Missing Fins

Can convicted felons still vote?

Otto

Felons can vote in Florida once they’ve completed their sentence. In the case of Trump, at the moment of sentencing, his sentence was complete.

Occ Topus

Poor Cum Torrent was well nigh inconsolable. It seemed his tears would never stop! I was torn between pity and laughter.

Occ Topus

Welcome back Otts. You missed the post-election meltdowns here. It was Top LEL.

Otto

Thanks Occ.

I can only imagine. Too bad i can’t get internet on my satellite phone. Would have made for funny story hour around the campfire.

Occ Topus

Hour? It went on for weeks! 😆

ricmatic

Good!


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