Owen Wright and Dad Rob Wright, leaving home.
Owen and Daddy Rob, en route to a dementia unit, inset, and the family spread at Skennars Head.

Skennars Head home of surf stars Tyler and Owen Wright fetches $4.5 million

A family home with heart.

Sixteen years back now, surfing’s famous Wright family, daddy Rob, Mama Fiona and kids, Mikey, Tyler, Kirby and Owen moved from Culburra on the NSW South Coast to the warm-water waves of Byron shire, setting up on almost seven acres a little south of Lennox Point. 

The joint at 5 Skennars Road, Skennars Head, was built back when the little sub-division was all undulating green fields and long before the place got turned into the usual shitbox housing development that pockmarks Australia. They don’t just hurt the eyes and squeeze the bank account but each squared off, crudely built structure ruins the souls contained within. 

Here, a family home with heart.

The place got listed for sale one month back when Rob Wright’s dementia got so bad his boy Owen, who’d been caring for him for the last five years, had to put him into a dementia unit. 

In a post on Instagram, Owen, Rob’s favourite kid, wrote of the struggle of seeing a beloved parent disappearing before your eyes.

 

View this post on Instagram

 

A post shared by Owen Wright (@owright)

“He’s surfed here forever. Every morning. He was still surfing here three years ago. And five years ago he got diagnosed with dementia. He hid it before that. He already knew before that, but he hid it from us.

“But we found out about it five years ago and he was surfing all the way up until two years ago. And today we’ve come down to Boulders to say see you later to Boulders, because we’re off to the Home today. We’re taking him to the nursing home to get some better care.

“We fought pretty hard, didn’t we Poppy, to keep you out of there. That was your wishes. You said that to me years ago, ‘I don’t want to go in there. I don’t ever want to go into one of those places.’ So we fought pretty hard to keep you out. And we did pretty well, I reckon.

“Because the condition he’s in now is non-verbal, can barely walk, doesn’t get out of bed much. You know, dementia can be pretty messy and incontinence is a part of that, not knowing how to feed yourself. Losing bodily functions. That’s something I wasn’t aware of when this started. I thought it was just memory. And seeing how far it goes is quite shocking, but we did our best to keep him out of the Home for as long as we could.

“It definitely took a toll on me personally and emotionally, but you do anything for your mums and dads. And I guess today is a big day for us, hey Poppy? We’ll put you into the Home, get some care, get some nurses around and maybe meet some new people.”

Listed with hopes of three mill or so, the estate just secured four-and-a-half million dollars, well north of the expected three, three-and-a-half.

As O said to his Dad in the same post,

“What a journey mate, what a journey. So, it’s been a pleasure. It’s been a wild ride, for sure.”

And from Owen’s book Against the Water,

“That relationship (with Dad) was the reason I surfed, it was the reason I pushed, it was the reason I rebelled, it was the reason I pushed again. It’s part of the reason I’ve retired. And it’s part of the reason I made it back out of the head injury.”

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Mythical non-surfing surf fan (pictured) bereaved.
Mythical non-surfing surf fan (pictured) bereaved.

Heartache in Oklahoma after new World Surf League director openly abandons “mythical surf fan that doesn’t surf”

"New management, along with ownership, is leaning into a 'surfer first' strategy...."

Three years ago, I embarked upon an epic quest across these United States in search of the mythical non-surfing World Surf League fan. The global home of surfing had, since its inception in 2015 circa 1976, been tailoring its product to that audience and I felt it was my duty, as a surf journalist, to discover one. Beginning in Cardiff by the Sea, I drove to Albuquerque, New Mexico, where I did not find one. I broke down in Tucumcari, New Mexico, where I did not find one. I spent a night in Amarillo, Texas while waiting to get the car fixed, where I did not find one. I continued on to Oklahoma City where then-World Surf League CEO Erik Logan texted me that the legendary Sooner Boomer Barry Switzer was one and put me on a text chain with Switzer and his wife. It turned out that it was not, in fact, Switzer though was his wife who was not pleased and replied to Logan, me and the rando, “Totally strange. Stop all messages to me.”

After that it was Memphis, Tennessee where I did not find one then Nashville, Tennessee where I might have found one. I can’t really remember. No matter now, though, as the the World Surf League has officially abandoned the lot of them.

In a stunning LinkedIn message, the newly appointed Director of Athlete Relations Chris Heffner openly declared, I’m exciting to step in at a time when the League is shifting focus — no more chasing the mythical ‘surf fan’ that doesn’t surf.”

Wails of anguish could be heard rising up from Norman, Napersville and North Ogden.

Not finished twisting the knife, Heffner continued, “New management, along with ownership, is leaning into a ‘surfer first’ strategy…. and I’m here for it.”

Howls of sorrow could be heard rising up from Peoria, Pleasant Township and Pontiac.

Heffner went on to describe how this pivot has led to better partnerships with cooler brands… like Neutrogena, kicking Shiseido in the teeth once more.

But what do you make of all this? Are there enough surf fans who surf, on earth, to sustain the tour?

Currently more questions than anwers.

 

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Mark Zuckerberg performs for wife Priscilla Chan at her 40th birthday.
Zuck wows the gang at his wife's fortieth party with Benson Boone homage.

Gorgeous Tahitian surf coach feted by Mark Zuckerberg after Priscilla Chen’s 40th birthday

Zuck dazzles partygoers at wife's birthday with Benson Boone homage!

Y0u don’t have to dig too far into the BeachGrit archives to find appearances by Raimana Van Bastolaer, the world’s best surf coach and human hard-on to Cindy Crawford, or Mark Zuckerberg, the fifth richest man in the world.  

Mark Zuckerberg, forty, was once the plaything of the left-leaning Biden admin and an avatar of the soft bellied liberal man, but now, with a new and extraordinary vigour, rides giant waves, plays jiujitsu and waves to UFC fighters mid-bloodbath, a twenty-first century Theodore Roosevelt it’s said. 

At his wife Priscilla Chen’s fortieth birthday four days ago, Zuck got inspired by Benson Boone’s sexy and athletic appearance at the 2025 Grammy Awards a week earlier and made a surprise performance for his gal.

In a video shared on Instagram, Mark Zuckerberg began the act in a formal black suit on stage.

Two assistants then dramatically ripped off his suit, revealing a shimmering blue jumpsuit with plunging neckline that revealed the topography of a gym-honed pectoral girdle, which he’d borrowed from Boone. 

Zuck leaped onto a piano with a microphone in hand, moving around the stage like a man half his age and seemingly singing – the video is scored by another song – much to the delight and amusement of Chan and the audience.

 

View this post on Instagram

 

A post shared by Mark Zuckerberg (@zuck)

Professional surfers and surfing identities, many of whom count Kauai-based Zuck as a close friend, dived into the comments. 

New mammy Carissa Moore wrote, “This is true love!! Looked amazing! Happy birthday @priscillachan ❤️ ”

Zuck replied with a heart emoji.

PM Tenore sent Zuck a flexed bicep emoji. 

At the very top of the comments, however, was Raimana Van Basolaer, the gorgeous Tahitian surf coach.

Raimana: “Need to see the front flip from the piano @zuck ” 

Zuck: “@raimanaworld I did some more stuff in practice but it didn’t feel great so I held back in the final performance ”

Raimana responds simply,

“Love you brother.”

Tight!

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The Dec. 22, 2024 Eddie.
The Dec. 22, 2024 Eddie.

Surf fans wonder “Can the Eddie run twice?” as gigantic swell pushes toward Hawaii

What if "The Bay" calls again?

This big wave season, in Hawaii, has certainly been one for the ages. It all started way back in November when one large Pacific swell after another menaced the islands’ northern facing shores. Things got wild in December, so wooly, in fact, that the 11th Eddie Aikau Big Wave Invitational was greenlit at the end of the month, won of course by Liam McNamara’s boy Landon.

The angry ocean took a merciful break during the World Surf League Lexus Pipe Pro’s early January window but roared back to life directly after Tyler Wright made history and has not let up yet even though March is tomorrow. Or today, In Australia.

The latest event being “set up by a beautiful low” according to Surfline’s lead forecaster Kevin Wallis and is slated to be as big as the December Eddie swell leaving surf fans curious?

Could the big wave invitational run twice in one year?

The question is certainly intriguing. The Eddie, unlike most surf contests, does not run every year, only when wave heights reach a consistent 25+ feet. As noted above, it has only gone 11 times since its inaugural 1985 holding. Its unofficial motto, as all surf fans know, “The Bay calls the day.”

So, what if “The Bay” calls twice in one year making up for all those lonely seasons when it was otherwise occupied?

Would you be excited for a redux or has your big wave watching plate already been filled?

Something to think about.

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Surf Dads and Female Longboarders, the scourge of surfing.
Female Longboarders and Surf Dads, the scourge of surfing.

Surf Dads are the worst people in any lineup except women longboarders!

"I’m not sure how to break it to these delusional fool dads that their son is not going to be the next John Florence."

Surfline killed Surfline Man, and I’m sure you were thinking it was totally safe to go back in the water. Surfline Man, so gone!

But I’m afraid I have some very bad news. You see, there is a new scourge terrorizing the lineups from here to, well, I’m not sure where. But you get the idea. There is a scourge and it is coming for you.

I probably should not try to get a job writing for the National Enquirer. I am not super good at generating horror. You are totally laughing at me right now. You don’t even believe that there is any kind of terror coming for you. Everything is going to be fine, you’re saying. But you are wrong.

The other day I was out surfing, which is a thing I like to do as you know. I was sitting on a little zipper of a section having a very fun time. There is something magical about finding an overlooked section in a crowded lineup. Everyone’s hassling around, trying to get a good one, and there you are, hanging out on your peak, living your best life.

Suddenly, I heard a a loud voice that was closer to me than I wanted a loud voice to be. And that’s when I saw him: Surf Dad.

There he was, plodding along on his volumed up shortboard — because he used to rip, dontcha know — legs spread, hoody pulled tight. The loud sound I heard was Surf Dad enthusiastically encouraging his offspring to drop in on a surfer coming down the line. This seemed bad.

I hope that kid does not collide with the surfer, I thought to myself as I paddled to my happy peak. I did not think this problem was any of my business. Idly, I noticed that the offspring pulled back in the knick of time. Dad might be an idiot, but the kid had at least a fledgling instinct for self-preservation. Good for him, I figured.

Staring at the horizon, I saw a peak approaching and bending in my direction, the kind of wave I especially like. I turned to paddle into it and there was Surf Dad on my inside. Sorry, Surf Dad, this wave is not for you! He was yelling at his kid to go. Since he was right next to me, this yelling was very loud.

In fact, he was so very right next to me that he hit me in the face while trying to paddle. Then he shoved his board in front of me. Some people will do anything to stop a girl from getting a wave. I did not get the wave. He did not get the wave. Down the line, his kid paddled and went over the falls. This felt great. Good game, everyone, good fucking game.

But this is just a typical day in Surf Dad life. In the course of my interactions with many Surf Dads, I have come to the conclusion that with very few exceptions, they are the worst people in any lineup except women longboarders, but that is a story for another day. It is not a surf day for Surf Dad unless he burns everyone or makes sure that his young offspring burns everyone. He is always out there setting the very best example for surfing’s future.

There you are, surfing along, and suddenly a human missile comes flying down the wave’s face right at you. You did not see that coming and the small human catapulting rapidly toward you probably didn’t exactly expect it either. You can choose to run over the small human who can’t really even stand up yet or you can straighten out.

I prefer not to murder children with my surfboard, so unfortunately, this is an easy choice for me. Your choice my vary. I am not a lawyer even here on the internet so I am not prepared to offer advice. I do firmly believe, however, that if you want to surf good waves, you should have to paddle for them.

Obviously, Surf Dad does not agree with me and is determined to ensure that Junior rides more set waves in a single session than he’s had birthdays. This is because Surf Dad believes his precious offspring is destined to become the next John Florence and he definitely deserves to float and flail his way around on the best waves of the day.

I’m not sure how to break it to these delusional fool dads that their son is not going to be the next John Florence. Suck it, 10,000 hours dumbasses! Talent is a thing that exists in the world and it influences all of our abilities to ride waves, sometimes for better, say like John Florence, and sometimes for the worst, which is like, pretty much all of the rest of us.

I might forgive them their trespasses if some of these men were teaching their daughters to surf. But it is always the sons being sent over the falls on set waves. It’s possible the Girl Dads are smart enough to teach their daughters somewhere other than a crowded lineup. Good job, Girl Dads! Now, can you teach the rest of the dads how to do this one neat trick?

Then one day recently I walked down the trail at Rincon with my cute pink fish under my arm. There I saw one of my friends who was sliding into his suit with no board in sight. This was confusing.

Gesturing toward the lineup, my friend explained that he was going to swim out and help his son get a few waves. It was an idyllic warm day with small clean waves rolling through the cove.

“I’m investing in my future,” he said. “I’m always going to have a surf buddy.”

He jumped in the water and swam out to where his son awaited him, looking comically small floating on his board.

I stopped to watch as my friend maneuvered around the crowd on the inside. Together he and his future surf buddy waited patiently as the longboards got their share. Then an empty wave came their way, and my friend gave his son a good shove.

The tiny, new surfer stood up and shimmied down the line. Ever so often he’d try to do a turn, throwing his arms in the air. The turns didn’t really work, not yet, but it didn’t matter at all. Then like a little bathtub toy, he paddled back to his dad to try it all again. The whole thing was pure joy in surfing form.

And in that moment, the future of surfing didn’t look so bad after all.

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