Just look at that empty right!
Just look at that empty right!

The dreaded “abundance of caution” rears ugly head again as California beach town bans surfing during big swell

"At this time, no injuries are reported in Capitola, and we want to keep it that way!"

The Covid years of our lives are, mercifully, behind us. Dark days when humans wandered around very scared of each other’s germs. Distance and distrust codified into statues ruling every human interaction. Practicing not just caution but an “abundance of caution” the proper social flex.

The “abundance of caution” was liberally employed to cancel, or otherwise restrict, all manner of joy and fun. Parties, picnics, surf contests. Ruling like a power-starved dictator until the disease finally ran its course through the population and folk abandoned it for subway surfing.

Well, in a shock turn few saw coming, the “abundance of caution” is back. Days ago, northern California experienced a wild run of unruly swell. Quaint Capitola, near Santa Cruz, did not like the big surf, even though the sun was shining and the birds singing. It did not want surfers surfing in it nor spectators even watching it.

But what to do?

Dust off the old chestnut is what.

The local police department shuttered the beach and the city released the following statement over social media.

As of approximately noon on 3/1/25 Capitola PD, Central Fire, State Parks, and Harbor Patrol have responded to multiple serious water rescues off of the Capitola Beach. Out of an abundance of caution the Capitola Beach and Wharf are closed until approximately 4 pm due to high surf, crowd size, and fast moving debris as a potential danger to public safety. At this time, no injuries are reported in Capitola, and we want to keep it that way!

No reported injuries. An “abundance of caution” locking it all down to keep it that way.

Does it warm your heart to see the phrase return or does it give you PTSD?

I wonder how disgraced former World Surf League CEO Erik Logan feels?

Load Comments

Makai McNamara leaves Queens Hospital in Honolulu
Makai McNamara leaves Queens Hospital in Honolulu.

Makai McNamara released from hospital, reunited with hero surfers who saved his life

“Makai McNamara is home!” says daddy Liam McNamara. “Thanks to God and everyone who saved his life!

There are few worse things in this life than anything even remotely unpleasant happening to your kid. 

How Pipe Master Liam McNamara felt a week ago when word came that his boy Makai McNamara had been revived on the beach after a wipeout on an epic six-to-twelve-foot day ain’t hard to guess.

Makai McNamara’s little brother Landon, who won the Eddie a few weeks back, helped bring him to shore. Shortly after the accident he posted:

“They brought him back to life on the beach.There was life back in his eyes. He spoke words. The feelings where overwhelming. He is in the ICU right now & last update is he will be kept asleep for the next 72 hours in order to heal the best. right now we all need to send all of our healing energy & prayers his way. He is so strong and has so much life left in him. I love you so much big brother. I know he’d probably roust me for making this post cause he’s the real deal haha but I truly believe the collective positive energy and prayers make a difference so please keep him in your thoughts and prayers.”

Over the course of a week since the accident, Liam has been drilling social media with updates on Makai’s condition along with a stream of thank-you notes to the surfers who dragged him out of the water and, particularly, the North Shore fire-fighter Kyle Foyle who resuscitated his kid on the sand. 

Kyle Foyle ain’t no lightweight. As well as being a first responder, he’s a black belt in jiujitsu and an MMA fighter.  

“Makai, you f$&king scared me yesterday,” wrote Foyle after the accident. “For a few mins I thought I was holding my friend for the last time. The look in your eyes, the foam coming out of your mouth, your blood on my hand, the sound of your ribs cracking as @ianbachmann did compressions, the AED checking your body for a shock but it wasn’t your time.”

Kyle Foyle, a real good man to have in your corner or to deliver you back to this world.

In a touching video, we see Makai leaving Queens Hospital in Honolulu in a wheelchair but, soon, moving, a little tenderly it has to be said and not surprisingly, to embrace his friends and family. 

“Makai McNamara is home!” writes daddy Liam. “Thanks God and everyone who saved his life! Thanks to his rock Malia Murphey who stood by his side and refused to let him be alone for a minute thru the whole ordeal! God is great and life is precious! Love and aloha to everyone!”

Pretty much everyone who’s laid a foot on the North Shore with a surfboard under their arm and a mission to complete paid their tributes below the line, including Martin Potter, Barton Lynch, Kala Alexander, Raimana Van Basolaer and Tom Carroll.

The long-term forecast for Makai is yet to be revealed but he’s got a lot of love in his corner.

 

View this post on Instagram

 

A post shared by Liam Mcnamara (@liam__mcnamara)

Load Comments

King of the Jetskis (pictured).
King of the Jetskis (pictured).

Blood Feud: Hardcore New Zealand bodyboarder versus angry local on jetski!

"This fella would literally run you over with the ski..."

Most surfers of a certain age were raised on diet of surf mags that celebrated going hard, rooting “chicks,” rude surf wear that was 85.8% covered in logos from 4 different companies and of course, hating bodyboarders.

Now I personally never really thought about why I hated Boogers. It just was so sub-consciously ingrained. It certainly didn’t help the cause that the only one I ever knew growing up was a weird dork. Sure there was certain mostly true stereotypes of pre-pubescent skinny 12 year olds doing 5x lame 360’s on soft shoulders, but there just weren’t many in my world.

As a weak minded feeble teenager surfer not looking to stand out from the crowd due to the fear of some naked hazing ritual in the carpark, it was just easier to roll with the pack. Hating Boogers, pretending to like ciggies and laughing at the older local heroes lame jokes was the safest way to navigate those testosterone fueled years of the early 90’s

My first real exposure to our flippered friends was seeing one free falling 15 meters inside the pack wave after wave into some throaty death barrels on an Indonesian reef break. Instant respect in my mind as the rest of us quivered on the shoulder on our 7 foot plus guns.

But you know who didn’t roll with the pack? Boogers. Way too busy quietly pioneering death barrels over nutty rock ledges while we chased long point breaks.

Boring perfection they just had zero interest in.

Just like surfers being late to the party at said slabs, we’re late to finding this absolutely hilarious yarn from New Zealand bodyboarder Sam Wells about a run in with a local stand up enforcer on a jet ski.

It’s from the equally hilarious Podcast from a couple of my southern brothers The Fumanswoo Podcast. Well worth a listen and maybe even a like and subscribe if you want to hear more about bodyboarders dissing Nate Florence for being a sissy boy scared of dirty water, mid-lenghth surfboard advice, circle jerks, more WSL moaning than here, group didgeridoo sexual intercourse sessions and general peeping-tom behaviour from our lay down friends.

Oh and dirty Wendy chit chat.

Good old Wendy.

Load Comments

Owen Wright and Dad Rob Wright, leaving home.
Owen and Daddy Rob, en route to a dementia unit, inset, and the family spread at Skennars Head.

Skennars Head home of surf stars Tyler and Owen Wright fetches $4.5 million

A family home with heart.

Sixteen years back now, surfing’s famous Wright family, daddy Rob, Mama Fiona and kids, Mikey, Tyler, Kirby and Owen moved from Culburra on the NSW South Coast to the warm-water waves of Byron shire, setting up on almost seven acres a little south of Lennox Point. 

The joint at 5 Skennars Road, Skennars Head, was built back when the little sub-division was all undulating green fields and long before the place got turned into the usual shitbox housing development that pockmarks Australia. They don’t just hurt the eyes and squeeze the bank account but each squared off, crudely built structure ruins the souls contained within. 

Here, a family home with heart.

The place got listed for sale one month back when Rob Wright’s dementia got so bad his boy Owen, who’d been caring for him for the last five years, had to put him into a dementia unit. 

In a post on Instagram, Owen, Rob’s favourite kid, wrote of the struggle of seeing a beloved parent disappearing before your eyes.

 

View this post on Instagram

 

A post shared by Owen Wright (@owright)

“He’s surfed here forever. Every morning. He was still surfing here three years ago. And five years ago he got diagnosed with dementia. He hid it before that. He already knew before that, but he hid it from us.

“But we found out about it five years ago and he was surfing all the way up until two years ago. And today we’ve come down to Boulders to say see you later to Boulders, because we’re off to the Home today. We’re taking him to the nursing home to get some better care.

“We fought pretty hard, didn’t we Poppy, to keep you out of there. That was your wishes. You said that to me years ago, ‘I don’t want to go in there. I don’t ever want to go into one of those places.’ So we fought pretty hard to keep you out. And we did pretty well, I reckon.

“Because the condition he’s in now is non-verbal, can barely walk, doesn’t get out of bed much. You know, dementia can be pretty messy and incontinence is a part of that, not knowing how to feed yourself. Losing bodily functions. That’s something I wasn’t aware of when this started. I thought it was just memory. And seeing how far it goes is quite shocking, but we did our best to keep him out of the Home for as long as we could.

“It definitely took a toll on me personally and emotionally, but you do anything for your mums and dads. And I guess today is a big day for us, hey Poppy? We’ll put you into the Home, get some care, get some nurses around and maybe meet some new people.”

Listed with hopes of three mill or so, the estate just secured four-and-a-half million dollars, well north of the expected three, three-and-a-half.

As O said to his Dad in the same post,

“What a journey mate, what a journey. So, it’s been a pleasure. It’s been a wild ride, for sure.”

And from Owen’s book Against the Water,

“That relationship (with Dad) was the reason I surfed, it was the reason I pushed, it was the reason I rebelled, it was the reason I pushed again. It’s part of the reason I’ve retired. And it’s part of the reason I made it back out of the head injury.”

Load Comments

Mythical non-surfing surf fan (pictured) bereaved.
Mythical non-surfing surf fan (pictured) bereaved.

Heartache in Oklahoma after new World Surf League director openly abandons “mythical surf fan that doesn’t surf”

"New management, along with ownership, is leaning into a 'surfer first' strategy...."

Three years ago, I embarked upon an epic quest across these United States in search of the mythical non-surfing World Surf League fan. The global home of surfing had, since its inception in 2015 circa 1976, been tailoring its product to that audience and I felt it was my duty, as a surf journalist, to discover one. Beginning in Cardiff by the Sea, I drove to Albuquerque, New Mexico, where I did not find one. I broke down in Tucumcari, New Mexico, where I did not find one. I spent a night in Amarillo, Texas while waiting to get the car fixed, where I did not find one. I continued on to Oklahoma City where then-World Surf League CEO Erik Logan texted me that the legendary Sooner Boomer Barry Switzer was one and put me on a text chain with Switzer and his wife. It turned out that it was not, in fact, Switzer though was his wife who was not pleased and replied to Logan, me and the rando, “Totally strange. Stop all messages to me.”

After that it was Memphis, Tennessee where I did not find one then Nashville, Tennessee where I might have found one. I can’t really remember. No matter now, though, as the the World Surf League has officially abandoned the lot of them.

In a stunning LinkedIn message, the newly appointed Director of Athlete Relations Chris Heffner openly declared, I’m exciting to step in at a time when the League is shifting focus — no more chasing the mythical ‘surf fan’ that doesn’t surf.”

Wails of anguish could be heard rising up from Norman, Napersville and North Ogden.

Not finished twisting the knife, Heffner continued, “New management, along with ownership, is leaning into a ‘surfer first’ strategy…. and I’m here for it.”

Howls of sorrow could be heard rising up from Peoria, Pleasant Township and Pontiac.

Heffner went on to describe how this pivot has led to better partnerships with cooler brands… like Neutrogena, kicking Shiseido in the teeth once more.

But what do you make of all this? Are there enough surf fans who surf, on earth, to sustain the tour?

Currently more questions than anwers.

 

Load Comments