"He married, moved often, quit surfing, buried two stillborn children, divorced, drank, drugged, recovered, relapsed."
Sly Stone was transcendently hip and cool—in a way not wholly unlike surfing in its peak moments.
"Jack McCoy was a leaner meaner version of Tom Selleck, with an amazing voice, and unlimited confidence and ambition."
"Clyde was the one who best channeled and reflected the light, the upside, of the Aikau family."
"The suffering leads nowhere, circles in on itself, feeds on itself. Drouyn’s transition only worsens his mental health, and anyone still watching at this point is just rubbernecking."
"I can't think of anyone, at her level, who was less interested in surfing as a path to money or fame."
What's in it for surfing? WSL gets a cut. Slater, too. The pros have a new CT contest – except nobody wanted it
Rick Rasmussen, Bunker Spreckels, Miki Dora etc.
"Allow the surfers to touch each other. Encourage it. Let my opponent look at me and say 'Let’s fight it out to the end.'"
"In print form, Stab was without precedent, an essential protein or two away from being a new surf-media lifeform."
By shaping and promoting the Eddie Aikau myth, others—Quiksilver, mostly—stood to profit greatly…
"Trestles three years in a row? That's basically an insult, a fuck-you to the pros, to the fans, to the game."
Or not the wrong reasons, exactly, but for reasons that were long ago bent to fit a certain narrative about Dane.
"I have had my car windows waxed for being a non-local, I've been blasted as a surfing feminist. But any Jew Boy stuff? Fifty-plus years in surfing and nothing. I mean, zero."
"Curren was the last surviving member of the four men who, in the 1950s, more or less invented big-wave surfing."
"At 15, just after winning her first national title, Trim was asked to pose naked, on her back, beneath a surfboard, for a full-page magazine ad."
