Watch: Matadors make their kills in outrageous Central American beachbreaks!

This is hard shit!

You ain’t alone if you revel in the artistry and pomp of abrupt beachbreaks, like those featured in this excellent short from O’Neill.

In Paradise Lost, part of a series of strike missions around the world, Eli Olsen, Timothy Reyes and Ian Crane meet a swell hitting ‘The Bull’s Mouth’ on Panama’s Caribbean coast.

It is here, where beachbreaks crack like thunder on shallow sandbanks, the trio demonstrate often otherworldly skills at getting under the throwing lips to examine the waves’ interior decoration.

It is a pleasing five or so minutes and proof, I suppose, that not every clip has to have John John Florence or Italo Ferriera to pique your interest.

Question: Could a 12-year-old boy win a Women’s WCT event?

Whom among the top 18 women could stop little Jackie Doz in a pool contest?

Ain’t a bigger fan of women’s pro surfing than your ol pal DR. I could watch Steph’s swoops, Caroline’s fin-throws and Carissa’s intricate architecture all day long.

But, what has always struck me, and it’s what I tell girls with coaches, no one can do airs with any regularity or style.

Learn to fly and the tour’s yours.


Carissa almost got move of the year in 2018 with a stuck-in-the-lip-ass-scratching-the-deck frontside reverse. 

Yet little boys have got 540s on tap before their Bar Mitzvah or Holy Confirmation.

I’ve never seen it better realised than this three-minute cut of Jackie Dorian, who is twelve and the son of the former movie star and pro surfer Shane Dorian, and whom we find here howling at the Waco moon.

It’s pure poetry.


Put Jackie and a top five gal in the pool.

Best air wins.

Who’s got it?

And, is it sexist and brutish to ask?

Watch: How an Australian teen snatched the biggest bone at Teahupoo!

Leroy Bellet and the story behind his Michel Bourez-at-Teahupoo treasure…

For the past four years, a teenager from country Australia, Leroy Bellet, has been shooting some of the best POV shots in the world.

(Anthony Walsh ain’t bad, either.)

Bellet, who was eighteen when this shot was taken in 2017 (yeah, the wheels move slow), has been chasing the monkey-on-the-back angle ever since he saw the French ex-pro Laurent Pujol doin’ it back in 2013.

Pujol’s idea was this: Imagine a GoPro photo but captured with a high-end Nikon D3 riveted to the fine glass of a 16mm prime lens. But mounting big cameras on helmets and boards, while theoretically possible, is expensive and clunky.

So Laurent figured he’d try a more direct and primitive route. He’d step off into tubes behind the surfer and while they rode the tube, he’d do the same, only deeper, and holding a camera.

“I saw this photo Mark Healey took at Pipe with his GoPro in his mouth and he came in and showed me the picture,” Pujol told me back in 2013. ” And even though it was soft (out of focus) and it wasn’t, like, the perfect shot, you could see the colours, the surfer from behind and I just went, wow, that’s fucking crazy. That’s what I want to do. But I want to figure out how to catch a wave with a (Nikon) D3 in my hand not a GoPro.”

The results were pretty wild.

Pujol’s dream was to get a couple of frames of Bruce Irons or Nathan Florence at Teahupoo but, as he said at the time, “I’m not going to kill myself for nothing. I’m not going to do it for a double-page spread.”

Bellet, on the other hand…


Watch: Albee Layer in “Oh my God, don’t go! Oh my God, is he going to die?”

Watch the "hard" get put into "hard kombucha!"

How do you feel about kombucha, honestly? The first time I ever tried, I thought. “Whoa, this is some powerful alcohol!” before being informed that it’s not the sort of alcohol that a man gets drunk upon. Apparently kombucha is a good, healthy, probiotic drink and it turned my stomach severely.

Until now.

The powers that be figured out that if something tastes super boozy it should actually be super boozy and would you allow me to introduce “hard kombucha?”

Hard kombucha, meaning properly alcoholic kombucha, is presenting Albee Layer’s newest film featuring the singular vocal stylings of Matt Meola and, while they already had me at “hard,” I couldn’t be more thrilled.

Rough Mauian kegs.

Or is it Mautian?




I’ve already had too many hard kombucha’s today, hold the kombucha, add vodka and then Red Bull.


I ran out of soda.


Seriously, what is it?

Watch now!

Watch: Full video (with zoom) of surfing dog vs VAL vs SUP-foil/Mavs legend Jeff Clark!

Surprising, upsetting, offensive and fun. It's everything surfing, or good sex for that matter, should be!

Four days ago, or thereabouts, we were gifted the rare pleasure of watching a three-way between a surfing dog, a SUP foiler and a VAL.

Guerin Myall aka @myallsnaps, a noted filmer of surf, skate and punk rock around Santa Cruz, shot the event at a beginner’s wave called Cowells and posted it on Instagram.

Cue outrage etc.

When I called, he said, “A lot of people were commenting that the dog dropped in. Bullshit, I got the video footage,” says Myall, who also praised Clarke for his skill in collision avoidance.

(Revisit here.)

Today, Myall has released the full clip of the three-way, which you can see below, and which gets good at the three-minute mark when the moment is examined in slow-motion and zoomed in.

“My observation was watching Jeff speeding through the section coming up quickly on HomerHomer was already driving down the line from where he caught the wave at the breaking point of the peak,” writes Mylall. “When the video focuses in on Skyler Homer and Jeff it looks as if Jeff catches up to say “What’s up Skyler” and everything’s all good but Jeff seemed a little too focused on Skyler and didn’t realize how close he was to the the guy right in front of him.

“That’s when Jeff made a great split-decision to push his board the opposite direction and hurl himself to avoid disaster thus landing on the guy and his board. Afterwards, it seemed like Jeff and Homer agreed that that was a close one and parted ways…

“Me, being the Filmer, think Foils have a place in the surf but not at a crowed weekend beginner spot where everyone drops in on each other. This video is not meant to hate foilers or the people that foil but to educate the people that are wanting to start foil boarding and teach them to go where no one is, where its safe from a crowed lineup to avoid potential accidents.”