Come in at 2:45 to see the gymnastics involved
in wrangling this cave, the sorta wave that has the rest of us
swimming away like sardines. Oh, it's Eli Olsen, if you're
wondering.
Watch: Matadors make their kills in
outrageous Central American beachbreaks!
By Derek Rielly
This is hard shit!
You ain’t alone if you revel in the artistry and pomp of
abrupt beachbreaks, like those featured in this excellent
short from O’Neill.
In Paradise Lost, part of a series of strike missions
around the world, Eli Olsen, Timothy Reyes and Ian Crane meet a
swell hitting ‘The Bull’s Mouth’ on Panama’s Caribbean coast.
It is here, where beachbreaks crack like thunder on shallow
sandbanks, the trio demonstrate often otherworldly skills at
getting under the throwing lips to examine the waves’ interior
decoration.
It is a pleasing five or so minutes and proof, I suppose, that
not every clip has to have John John Florence or Italo Ferriera to
pique your interest.
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Can you imagine an air showdown between Caz
Marks and Jackie Dorian, combined age twenty nine?
Question: Could a 12-year-old boy win a
Women’s WCT event?
By Derek Rielly
Whom among the top 18 women could stop little
Jackie Doz in a pool contest?
Ain’t a bigger fan of women’s pro surfing than your ol
pal DR. I could watch Steph’s swoops, Caroline’s
fin-throws and Carissa’s intricate architecture all day
long.
But, what has always struck me, and it’s what I tell girls with
coaches, no one can do airs with any regularity or style.
I’ve never seen it better realised than this three-minute cut of
Jackie Dorian, who is twelve and the son of the former movie star
and pro surfer Shane Dorian, and whom we find here howling at the
Waco moon.
It’s pure poetry.
Now.
Put Jackie and a top five gal in the pool.
Best air wins.
Who’s got it?
And, is it sexist and brutish to ask?
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Michel Bourez deep inside a closeout at
Teahupoo, the photographer, Leroy Bellet, even deeper…
Watch: How an Australian teen snatched the
biggest bone at Teahupoo!
By Derek Rielly
Leroy Bellet and the story behind his Michel
Bourez-at-Teahupoo treasure…
For the past four years, a teenager from country
Australia, Leroy Bellet, has been shooting some of the
best POV shots in the world.
Pujol’s idea was this: Imagine a GoPro photo but captured with a
high-end Nikon D3 riveted to the fine glass of a 16mm prime
lens. But mounting big cameras on helmets and boards, while
theoretically possible, is expensive and clunky.
So Laurent figured he’d try a more direct and primitive route.
He’d step off into tubes behind the surfer and while they rode the
tube, he’d do the same, only deeper, and holding a camera.
“I saw this photo Mark Healey took at Pipe with his GoPro in his
mouth and he came in and showed me the picture,” Pujol told me back
in 2013. ” And even though it was soft (out of focus) and it
wasn’t, like, the perfect shot, you could see the colours, the
surfer from behind and I just went, wow, that’s fucking crazy.
That’s what I want to do. But I want to figure out how to catch a
wave with a (Nikon) D3 in my hand not a GoPro.”
The results were pretty wild.
Pujol’s dream was to get a couple of frames of Bruce Irons or
Nathan Florence at Teahupoo but, as he said at the time, “I’m not
going to kill myself for nothing. I’m not going to do it for a
double-page spread.”
Bellet, on the other hand…
Watch.
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Watch: Albee Layer in “Oh my God, don’t go!
Oh my God, is he going to die?”
By Chas Smith
Watch the "hard" get put into "hard kombucha!"
How do you feel about kombucha, honestly? The
first time I ever tried, I thought. “Whoa, this is some powerful
alcohol!” before being informed that it’s not the sort of alcohol
that a man gets drunk upon. Apparently kombucha is a good, healthy,
probiotic drink and it turned my stomach severely.
Until now.
The powers that be figured out that if something tastes super
boozy it should actually be super boozy and would you
allow me to introduce “hard kombucha?”
Hard kombucha, meaning properly alcoholic kombucha, is
presenting Albee Layer’s newest film featuring the singular vocal
stylings of Matt Meola and, while they already had me at “hard,” I
couldn’t be more thrilled.
Rough Mauian kegs.
Or is it Mautian?
Mauite?
Maui-anna?
Mauiopolus?
I’ve already had too many hard kombucha’s today, hold the
kombucha, add vodka and then Red Bull.
Sorry.
I ran out of soda.
Mauiastranga?
Seriously, what is it?
Watch now!
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"Jeff seemed a little too focused on Skyler
and didn't realize how close he was to the the guy right in front
of him. That's when Jeff made a great split decision to push his
board the opposite direction and hurl himself to avoid disaster
thus landing on the guy and his board."
Watch: Full video (with zoom) of surfing
dog vs VAL vs SUP-foil/Mavs legend Jeff Clark!
By Derek Rielly
Surprising, upsetting, offensive and fun. It's
everything surfing, or good sex for that matter, should be!
Four days ago, or thereabouts, we were gifted the rare
pleasure of watching a three-way between a surfing dog, a SUP
foiler and a VAL.
Guerin Myall aka @myallsnaps, a noted filmer of
surf, skate and punk rock around Santa Cruz, shot the event at a
beginner’s wave called Cowells and posted it on Instagram.
Cue outrage etc.
When I called, he said, “A lot of people were commenting that
the dog dropped in. Bullshit, I got the video footage,” says Myall,
who also praised Clarke for his skill in collision avoidance.
Today, Myall has released the full clip of the three-way, which
you can see below, and which gets good at the three-minute mark
when the moment is examined in slow-motion and zoomed in.
“My observation was watching Jeff speeding through the section
coming up quickly on HomerHomer was already driving down the line
from where he caught the wave at the breaking point of the peak,”
writes Mylall. “When the video focuses in on Skyler Homer and Jeff
it looks as if Jeff catches up to say “What’s up Skyler” and
everything’s all good but Jeff seemed a little too focused on
Skyler and didn’t realize how close he was to the the guy right in
front of him.
“That’s when Jeff made a great split-decision to push his board
the opposite direction and hurl himself to avoid disaster thus
landing on the guy and his board. Afterwards, it seemed like Jeff
and Homer agreed that that was a close one and parted ways…
“Me, being the Filmer, think Foils have a place in the surf but
not at a crowed weekend beginner spot where everyone drops in on
each other. This video is not meant to hate foilers or the people
that foil but to educate the people that are wanting to start foil
boarding and teach them to go where no one is, where its safe from
a crowed lineup to avoid potential accidents.”
