“I’ve wanted to surf second reef, doubling-up Lances my entire life”
In this just-released edit, we are gifted ring seats to the three-time NSSA champ, runner-up to Zeke Lau’s Ultimate Surfer and part-time model Koa Smith charging like a bull at Lance’s Right aka Hollow Trees, the premier righthander in the Mentawais.
The behelmeted Smith, born in Kauai twenty seven years ago and a student of Bruce and Andy Irons, surfs with the contented and dreamy look of the female suckling her young as he dominates some of the best waves in the world including, but not limited to Teahupoo, Skeleton Bay and Pipeline.
And, here at Lance’s, Smith gets into it with all the gusto of a veterinarian getting into the glistening chancre in a show mare’s dock.
Essential.