Can I have your board? Can I tell you about my experiences with concave?
I won’t even begin to pretend that, at various points in my career, I haven’t felt overwhelmed, subjugated, under spell, by high-end pro surfers.
It’s a fame thing. I get it. I see it.
The way a pro surfer will swing in to my little town and his acolytes will follow, always arranged in a subconscious hierarchy in a line as they march to a bar, to a restaurant, the number one pal half-a-step behind the pro star, number five at the back of the pack. The way their heads are turned away when the dinner bill comes and the high-end pro surfer, depending upon his generosity rating, either discreetly slips his card into the leather billfold or uselessly searches for…someone… to make a token gesture at payment.
Can you imagine being surrounded by yes-men and dumb, beautiful girls who’ll fall into a deep squat just because of your fame, even if you’re paunchy and charmless. No one but the famous can appreciate the power of true harlotry.
But, as life ain’t all cake, fame isn’t always singing with seduction and worship.
Can you imagine the dumb, intrusive questions y’have to live with?
Small price, sure, and yes if only, but tell me you would be worn thin if, every day, every contest you were asked:
Can I have your board?
I travel as what is loosely termed a “journalist” on surf trips. Sometimes I have to write something, sometimes shoot a film, sometimes I just surf and observe. And, every single day, a pro will have someone engage ‘em in conversation, be all pally, and, before you know it… can I have your board? Who asks such a thing? Would you walk up to Leo Decap and say, nice 100-foot boat, can I have? Yeah, I get that pros get free boards, and most ‘em do leave most of ‘em around the world, for kids, for the families they stay with, but why would they wanna give away a sled to someone who was non-existent in their lives five minutes previous? Say what you want about pros, but I’m always amazed by their patience, by their kindness in refusal.
Is that a single-double concave into a slight vee through the tail?
It ain’t a secret that light concaves and vee through the tail are invisible to everyone except shapers in fluorescent-lit shaping bays. But, when you’re a pro surfer, everyone wants to talk design. They’ll grab your board, spin it on its side, run a cupped hand along the rail, say things like: Blockier than I thought. Or, I’m guessing this is 32 litres. How much do you weigh? And, most painfully, the fan will engage in deep philosophical discussion about the merits of single and double concave and vee in the tail, and how it has impacted upon their own surfing.
Can I have a tail-pad?
I know one pro surfer, helluva of a guy, helluva surfer, and he says how difficult it is to stop his pals from raiding every tail-pad delivery. Think about it. A high-end pro mows through a hundred or so boards a year. That’s a real big box of pads. Now imagine all the times he gets asked for one of his tail-pads. My pal says he always ends up buying at least half-a-dozen at 60 bucks a shot. I know, don’t feel sorry for the millionaire sonofabitch. But, fuck.
Who are you sponsored by?
There he stands, our dazzling hero, in head to thong Billabong, with VonZipper glasses, wearing a Nixon watch and holding a surfboard that confirms his employers.
Do you have a wife-girlfriend?
The dumbest question! No!
‘You mean you’re actually paid to dress like that?’
I pay to dress like that!
Hah! That’s precious. For some odd reason your stock just went up in my book.
add to this the absolute glazed over dumbness it takes to walk up to someone’s dinner table just because the Someone is Famous, and interrupt the entire conversation so you can regale the someone with a tale about how you saw them once in the surf at (insert surf spot), while ignoring everyone else present.
Can I tell ya:
– Nobody cares
– You’re within a bee’s dick of getting punched out by the someone’s wife/girlfriend/best mate
– Fuck Off.
I feel ya Nick. It’s hard being quasi famous for doing virtually fuck all and then having to be polite when people are in awe of you and give you credit for it. I fucking hate making someones day while I’m trying to waste my own life away too.
Well I guess it may sound a bit like that hey. But have it happen to you around 1000 times over five years or so. Then have the 1001th time happen when you’re trying to take your chick out for a special evening after another six week stint on the road, or catching up with family for the first time in a year. Fame in the moment is fame, quasi or not, and it’s a bullshit way to make a living.
I’m not trying to have too big a go at you Nick, I get it. I had a brief brush with “fame” in the early 2000’s and at times I could be unkind to people who rubbed me up the wrong way. I’ve never been one to approach a celebrity, instead I usually pretend not to recognize them. However something that has always stuck with me was having a beer with someone far more famous than any surfer. That person was unbelievably humble and kind and left me with a story to tell for the rest of my life. In most situations that are tedious, being a cunt doesn’t make the situation go away any quicker. Sometimes it’s better to grin and bear it and remember how important it might be to someone else.
Oh of course it is. Pretty much always a better way to go. And almost every time, that’s how it does go. But from my observation, there is frequently something a bit unsettling about such encounters. Probably just the way in which they are thrown off balance by the artificial weight of fame.
It’s like what my girlfriend tells me when I’m in the dog house: “it’s artificial but I can still get off on it”.
v v good WPS! Can I call you WPS?
Na call me the Prince of Ubatuba or Wiggs. Thanks.
Can you describe Wiggolly’s paddling style? I haven’t been given opportunity to thoroughly analyse it but would love to be in on the joke without sitting through untold youtube videos for a glimpse of Ubatuba’s very own Prince stroking into a wave.
I had to watch a fucking Samsung and Berocca ad to find this for you. It’s not the best example but watch at 3:06
http://www.worldsurfleague….
He paddles like a cute little turtle or lego man. No neck or back arch whatsoever.
Are you Shannon Noll or have you just met him?
Fuck up Negs. You know I’m better than that.
Look Wigg, sooner or later you’ll have to front some backstory vs the blowarse. Stop being a tease. BeachGrit demands the truth.
It’s tempting.
..
Bradley Darke then?
.kind thoughts, down-to-earth is the way to be…
Five years famous. Is famous!?
To be honest in this era of not much money around to pay guys to go and do contests that not many people watch I would be milking the fame game for all it was worth before I was a bitter local legend who once finished in the top 10 longing for the days where a handful of people gave a fuck who I was.
nope, sorry. Kelly uses his celebrity everywhere he goes. A life interrupted is the price he pays.
Fantastic.
Hahaha “scone”! Is that an Aussie-ism?
Will you do an interview for us?
Who’s us?
The inertia!
Fuck Off!
Any spell cast over me by pro surfers was broken the instant I first met one.
I live in NY and spend a lot of time in airports so the celebrity encounter is nothing new. However…I have found that the surf pros that I have met (mostly while in Hawaii) have been more than pleasant. I had a chat with Dave Wassell at HNL three weeks ago after the Mavs contest. He was happy to talk for a few minutes while waiting for his bag. I have also had a somewhat lengthy chat with Freddy P. about houses falling into the water. Freddy is a great guy and I was really happy to be able to talk to him.
jet setting in between your house in the Hamptons and condo in Haleiwa while encountering pro surfers…why are you commenting on beachgrit? this is for poor people at work with time to kill
Look , mom….I have a fan club!!!
Rich people usually have alot more time to waste. Not that i’d know.
You’d be surprised how much the government pays me to do drugs and surf.
I certainly wouldn’t be surprised by how many drugs you do. ZING!
Thanks mate. I’ll make you proud.
I feel ya, ain’t that a sweet set up?
Your first sentence alone is enough to label you as a douche
Actually I think you missed the irony of the first sentence…I live in NY but spend almost half my time out of here. If it were up to me I would be out of here permanently but familial obligations prevent that. And as much as I would love for that condo in Haleiwa to be mine…it aint. It’s a VRBO special which was very nice and I would be happy to give you the name of the nice lady who owned it if you are interested in spending a few days there (which I DEFINITELY recommend).
im way too fuckin poor to even leave thinking about going anywhere outside of a 15 mile radius
I like how poor people stay in the ghetto…
the ghetto can be a great community once you’re slummin it
Then you’d fit in perfectly in NY. You have the people in Manhattan/Brooklyn who believe there is no world outside the two boroughs unless they are magically teleported to the Hamptons (via the Hampton Jitney) and the people in my neighborhood who believe that the world is flat and wouldn’t want to fall off and spill their Bud Light can. You can have the best of both worlds without having to leave.
What idiots, everyone knows that the flat earth has 150ft high ice walls to prevent you (and the oceans) from falling off the edge.
VRBO? can you translate that for us at the lower end of the socio-economic scale.
Vacation Rental By Owner. It was Airbnb before Airbnb existed. Just don’t tell Rory that I rented a condo…he wrote a whole piece on it last year and how it was fucking up the real estate market in Hawaii.
Did you really board a plain last year in Indo holding a purse that had a gold chain Derek – dumb question? Maybe but apparently true..
Oh please be true. If not I will refuse to believe it isn’t true. Such loveliness
Hey apparently Derek is a cool bloke & I kinda get the cutting edge approach he obviously takes,kinda..but what gives with the gold chained man bag in the ments. Was it a benchong marketing ploy…a regrettable step to far attention seeking? Insights last staw..
Don’t know interested in Derek’s reply? Dezza what’s up buddy-something?
…yes, yes! It’s a little work bag, and I searched high and low for it. I think it’s Swedish via Japan or Japan via Sweden
(of course). I carry it everywhere!
It had gold panels, but yes!