A beautiful moment in history!
When was the last time you read something by Chas Smith without a hint of sarcasm? Something truly earnest that poured from his heart to the paper? I cannot recall one thing ever.
That’s part of the reason we love Chas. He’s lighthearted, funny, and doesn’t allow the weight of the world to affect anything beyond his hairline. But sometimes you have to wonder what Chas is all about.
Because nobody is truly indifferent. We all have things that are important to us — like Derek and his sharks, JP and his Scotland, etc. — things that affect our everyday moods and emotions. But it’s often hard to pinpoint what really matters to Chas Smith.
Until yesterday.
Scrolling through The Book, I caught glimpse of Chas’s signature yellow profile picture with what appeared to be a novel beneath it. Considering his posts usually consist of BeachGrit articles, it caught my attention. I scrolled back to discover the most uplifting post of the week, and the first instance of sincerity from our old pal Charlie. It read:
Last night I sat in a movie theater and wept for the first time since 1982. Then I was six-years-old and E.T. was playing and I thought he was dead. Now I am forty and watching Wonder Woman with my four-year-old daughter on my lap.
And in the day and age of “grab-them-by-the-pussy” and Cliff Huxtable’s quaaludes watching a woman shred multiple battlefields of men while my little girl crosses her forearms in a defiant pose completely did me in.
At this very moment she is running around the house with a postcard as a shield, a necklace as a lasso, a colored pencil as a sword and a hand-me-down Super Girl outfit substituting for Wonder Woman’s. I’m taking her again tonight because she is begging. And because there is currently nothing better on this earth than empowering her.
To hell with Trump. To hell with Cosby. The future is hers.
This beautiful sonnet was reinforced in my mind when listening to NPR this morning. The station was talking about Kurdish women fighters who were part of the war against ISIS. Some of them were there because they loathed the Islamic State, but many were there as a means of avoiding and/or deconstructing a patriarchal society. One woman joined in order to flee from a marriage that her brother had arranged for her.
Very sad, but there was one instance of brilliance.
It turns out that under Muslim doctrine, being killed by a woman soldier blocks your entry to eternal bliss, virgins, etc. The Kurdish fighters, knowing this, use a loudspeaker to taunt the ISIS members, reminding them that if they die at the hands of a woman they will be eternally doomed. If that’s not empowerment I don’t know what is!
Anyways, back to Chas.
When researching the Panama story from last week, I stumbled upon an old essay he had written for Stab. It started:
Panama is an unshaved Hispanic pussy. Gently rolling folds covered with lush vegetation spill into endless pleasure of ocean. Or sea. Giant metal phalluses, captained by white men, enter her from the front and from the rear. It is almost always wet season.
Which led to:
I ended the evening with three underage girls, if memory serves, in a hot tub at the Courtyard Real Hotel. I was wearing a Tahitian Themed Jean Paul Gaultier swimsuit with a print of Tahitian boys. I was drinking a frosty sangria and the girls were nude.
One can’t help but think that having a daughter has had a profound effect on Chas’s outlook on life, if not his fashion sense.
So thank you Chas for showing us your heart — but mostly thanks to Hemingway for making it ten times bigger!

laird is such a homo
I’m gonna look this word up!
Misogyny for guys. [I looked it up, makes sense – andro = male/ gynae = female]
we need real journalism, like which surfer has the worst drug habit or the most amount of std’s.
This incredible story of love and transformation could be the next Eat, Pray, Love if handled by the right script writer. Imagine the opening scenes! Chas swinging his dick in a Panamanian hot tub surrounded by nubile (but legal, this is Hollywood) local ladies. Traumatised by his time dodging terrorists in Yemen, Somalia and Newport Beach, he resorts to booze and drugs to dull the pain He eventually finds love in the arms of a beautiful woman, who nurses his soul and allows him to spray his seed into her wealthy womb. A child is subsequently born who teaches him the real meaning of love. He dabbles in surf writing before living a bucolic life by the ocean in Oregon, dodging sharks, meth heads and Morgan Williamson who amazingly moves next door. The two eventually become dear friends and blah, fucking blah, you now how this shit ends….
they become wildlife carers for orphaned white sharks?
Perfect! I toyed with the idea of a three way tryst but I’ll leave that up to Morgan.
Morgan and Chas would be a hell of a sandwich!
Morgan would provide the sheer grunt and enthusiasm of youth and Chas the subtleties and nuance of the experienced cocksman.
You young boys would be up voting each others fantasy..
Who you calling young?
I too thought long and hard about that list of insults: receding hairline professionalism, rich wife, lobbing insults without consequence etc. Looks like Morgs has some homework to do in the way of insulting others, as his aforementioned list of “insults” could double as a list of qualifications for the new editor-in-chief position at STAB.
Was the daughter conceived in the Panamanian hot tub?
I hope you soon realize that that movie sucked and your little one should and can have much better role models. Plus she will be reading all of the crap you have written and will write at some point in her life. Step it up. Make her proud. Just write a good article for the love of the internet. Grit = inertia
Occasionally BG wanders into the realm of the Inertia, but by and large tilts towards saying things others won’t. BG>Inertia.
Sexism and Stab, who would have thought…
what about you Mike? It’s not really fair to turn Chas inside out without putting your own heart on the table.
Have I not? I think I have.
What about this? http://beachgrit.com/2017/0…
Also I cry at dog-dying movies a lot…
Did Chas ghostwrite this? Prose is eerily similar….
Rolling Stone called it “the best football memoir of all time.”
https://static01.nyt.com/im…
great title.
Good be the title of my surfing life post 40.
Chas is a loveable larrikin with a heart of gold.
In case anyone missed the glaring virtue of the writer:
Anti-Trump. Check.
Misandry. Check.
NPR. Check.
Bizarrely applying third-wave-feminist-post-structural jargon to a middle-eastern context. Check.
Pledging to give up environmentally rapacious and culturally-swell appropriative trip to Skeleton. Nope.
I didn’t read it like that Humas. Sounds like you’ve missed the point and are being overly partisan.
I suppose you are right. It was slightly more subtle than his magnum opus “Get Paid to Pee on Trump”.
this is fucking good
Comparing Chas to JP is like comparing Freddie to Kanye https://youtu.be/nwN6dPNXklg
You sick fuck Jimmy! Send that shit back to the dark web where it belongs.
Thank you for bringing that. Now this is art.
Can Mariano and I be part of your play group? Groom our children to be WSL shredders together, representing the Grit?
That sounds like child abuse to me.
How’s the fam, Nega? You get good waves in NZ over the weekend or not?
Did you surf Saturday though Wiggs?
I enjoyed a lovely thrashing all the way to Bird Rock.
I did mate! I opted to take numerous life threatening beatings rather than surf the shit show that was Fishos as well. Wasn’t easy.
Point Roadnight or RAAFs? 😉
Na. Bit of dynamite could make Roadknight Australia’s premier wave though I reckon.
You get the explosives sorted and I’ll get the bulldozers to move some shit around…
It made getting some solid four footers psychologically easier the next day, although I got rather hassled by some notable absentees of the previous day. I ain’t got much hassle game.
Family… I gripe internally Wiggs, the Internet is no place for tears…
Some fun ones on an sheltered uncrowded point, nothing serious.
I wish I had a metal heart.
Charlie is an extremely smart individual that plays dumb so well. The perfect cocktail for success.
Which explains why the approach I have taken as an extremely dumb individual acting smart has worked so well as a perfect cocktail for you know what.