You ain't real good? It don't matter!
I’ll be the first to admit I ain’t the surfer I usually think I am. On a little runner, with easy-to-read shoulders, you might think, yeah, there’s something there.
But there ain’t.
Started too late, found solace in being too cool to try when I was on the cusp of being okay, didn’t join a boardriders club at an early-enough age, and the result is a sad lil man standing on a very crowded wharf, the ship of good style and instinctive surfing long sailed.
One thing I do know, and this is something I learned from staring at thousands of photos as a magazine editor, is that you can fake a good surf shot.
Never had a good surf photo of yourself surfing?
Let me show you how.
Spastic isn’t a dirty word. On one hand, I’m glad we washed our hands of this epithet for anyone with cerebral palsy. How many kids did we torture with it at school? On the other hand, you’re not going to get a good surf shot if you think style means barely moving on a wave. The surf photos that work are the result of aggression and bold directional changes. Get spastic! Get your ass low to your board, coil up, throw your arms in the turn, scream if you have to. I know a guy who might be, and this is an extremely competitive division yes, the ugliest surfer in the world. I think he’s Swiss, maybe. Beautiful man, body like an Olympian. But the way he bounces on his board and throws himself at the lip makes for… photos. I watch him surf, spellbound sometimes, snapping the shots in my head, knowing, he could take some of these home and be on the cover of a magazine.
You’re not in the pocket and you’re nowhere near the lip. What a sad thing it is to see video of yourself on a wave for the first time. All those times you ragged on Alejo Muniz for not surfing critical enough? Oh god, look at this: you’re three pumps out on the face before you even started looking upward at the lip. Here’s the thing. If you think you should be stalling for the tube, that’s where you need to be doing your turns.
Airs go toward the beach not off the back. Running down the line and throwing yourself off the back of the wave won’t look like an air however fast your photographer hits the shutter button. If you want a flying kick-out shot to show your pals in Cleveland , sure, keep doing what you’re doing. If you want something approximating an air that’ll fool your pals at the beach, huck it towards the sand.
Think, one turn only: you’re not being scored on the wave, only the photo. Waste the entire wave if you have to. Murder five sections. Gather your speed and deliver.
Go retro-fab: Soul arches are the easiest damn thing in the world. Throw your back out, hands by your side, and collect your very 2009 photo at the door.
That was me for some reason I have 2 avitars
not really rocket science Twillo just watched again pretty obvious really
https://beachgrit.com/2015/…
how are ya any way
I honestly can’t tell you the amount of times people have gotten out of the water asking if I got footage of their “barrel” only for me to feel bad and tell them I must have missed it despite the fact they looked like they were fishing for crabs the whole time
I didn’t have the energy to read this article as I am still overwhelmed by the Monster scandal, but… didn’t you forbid your kid from riding a fish? I hope he doesn’t read BG!
I did! Avoid the mistakes of your perhaps fatally flawed father etc.
Nice story. What is your opinion of Soloshot? I’ve gotten hooked on using and having a nice video surf journal of my sessions.
Oh I would feel very…very… silly setting up a camera on a tripod to capture my fitting and seizures on a wave.
Let me tell you that feeling is certainly there but you also getting to capture the sillier seizures of your friends can make up for it.
frame grabs from vids work great too. often right before you bog a rail you’re doing like 75% of the turn correctly, so stop the frame right there and live in that moment.
Groundbreaking news. WSL just announced FB as new platform for streaming connests etc. I’m expecting the Grit to cover this in no less than 5 stories. So exciting! Chas are you onto this as we speak?
looks like Ashton got the jump on Chas with this story.
I keep waiting for Adjunct Professor to chime in. Where IS he?
Possibly at FIGHT CLUB but it doesn’t exist .
Depends on the meth!
Palm Springs?
Gotta make it rain, who needs photos when your buckets show up on the Weather Channel?
Swiss surfers as a whole are potentially the most spastic in the world. Awful style yet entertaining to watch and laugh at. Is that racist?
Is it better to be a good surfer with shit photos/or no photos or a shit surfer with good photos in this post modern world ?
Fuck life is so complicated
Hardly a life threatening conundrum but if in this modern époque ( sorry French keyboard ) epoch you catch the wave of your life and it wasn’t captured and then uploaded/downloaded as data,is it like the tree that falls unseen in the forest 🌳 . Does it really exist and thus have no meaning in the new dataism creed/religion
Like the sound of one hand clapping…This heartache could be avoided if we all purchased that board Gabs was promoting a few years back with an in built camera. This is the future! I feel disgusting just saying that.
One part of me would like to become Homo Deus but the other part hopes to be food for worms long before I have to embrace the holy f’in Algorithm.
Yes, it is I, the board you should have purchased. My favourite function is when my LED lights up with “PADDLE”
Damn it Brickerton! You write in English with no accent. And spell in French with no accent. Just where the hell are you from?
Somewhere in Africa about 200,000 years ago
the good old days
Hanging out with the QUEENS OF THE STONE AGE .
with a little nicotine, valium, vicodin, marijuana, ecstasy and alcohol to keep you company?
Company being the word . It was our ability to communicate among ourselves which permitted us to take over the world(for better or worse) and I am sure the help of social lubricants played a big factor .Can’t have been called the Stone Age for nothing.
Pangaea? (Sp?)
…good with shit photos, I’d say.
But if you can’t be good, it don’t hurt to have a bank of passable surf shots.
Your right but then is this a type of fake news at a personal level? Look how good I can surf . Not really it’s just a two dimensional digital image/representation of what I would like to do but can’t. The air guitar of surf shots .
It’s similar to a photo where a blend of shadow and direct light makes it look like you have a fabulous inguinal crease (Those two ligaments from the hips that act as an arrow to your prong and drive gals bananas).
There’s a guy by the name of Dana Quinn. Absolutely insane surfer. Powerful, stylish, destroyed contests as a grom but shunned off all the hype. Now he bartends and bangs nails to fund solo trips to Chile. When everyone is using jetski assist during the gnarly nor easters here, he’s paddling out and into waves on his own. I dont think theres a person who surfs here that doesnt give him the utmost respect. Very few people have shots of him though because he doesnt go out of his way to talk to photogs. You just have to stumble upon him surfing https://uploads.disquscdn.c…
After 10 years as an electrician and 20 years as a barman (a lifestyle choice which permitted me to surf everyday)I have the utmost respect for surfing’s hard working underground especially those goofies who prefer to go left .
How are those Lefty’s! They are so weird naturels love both ways but the goofys like 80 percent of them will only go left..
Everyone has that goofy mate who wants to go surf some shit left when that right is firing.
You’re in a coloured singlet , what was the wave score for that little jam?
5+ two days ago at Sebastian Inlet QS
I’ve never got more than a six-five for a complete wave so maybe…a one?
Just trying to help out your AHS
For the parting of the waters, for the sake of Beunos Aires can one ordinate some assemblance of reason?. Like match 2. C.S vs Corey or Sam Macca. lo
did you really need to go the extra mile with poka dots Del? pink says yeah im ok with my masculinity but the dots… less is more
That board is cool as shit!
It wasn’t meant to be such a soft…a coral… pink, but vivid, alive, evocative of the eighties. Echo Beach. Danny Kwock and so on. I saw it in Biolos’ garage and I was ever so sad. It looked like a Layne Beachley funboard model for 7S. It flew though.
I had my last board sprayed grey but the glasser decided to glass it in the UV epoxy resin. The board was came out in a Pastel lavender hue. Still goes unreal though best board I think I’ve ever had. tried to follow biolos leg length theory defiantly something in it
Cleveland.. as in brisbane ?
As in… LeBron! A very clumsy attempt to appear multi-continental…
Ich bin ein Clevelander.
Just kidding, I’m more of a Manly guy.
Still kidding, Marty Tullemans lived up the road though. That’s actually truth.
Haven’t I read this little nugget before? On the Grit? Maybe middle of last year? Or am I more fucking senile than I should be for a sprite-like burgeoning grey hair?
Yes! I think, two years ago. A repeat necessary to keep the meter ticking, so to speak, while I threw myself into a ghost writing gig I’m on at the moment.
Thank Christ. I thought for a moment I could predict the future or I was hallucinating wildly…
Nick Carroll will asking for his little brothers shorts to be returned Derek. Your hams do look fabulous in those tiny boardies
Nick Carroll will be asking for his little brothers kidney after I fuck that cunt up in our wrestling match. Style vs Carroll, 6pm on 8 April 2018 @ Torquay Hotel. Glass barbecue at my joint afterwards to celebrate. Don’t invite Tom.
Tom asked! Not even for a drop in?
I’ve only got 3 10kg bags of ice mate. Get him to go past the servo on the way and he has to fuck off before we light the barbie.
I’m out mate! Talking about this got me put in Internet sin bin for nearly 11months catch you on the next article.
ah shit, now I catch on. I was fcuking oblivious
There’s shit talking and talking shit Wigg…
I’m finding myself deleting your comments quite often again.
Fuck it. I got upvoted by Longtom my life is complete.
was that comment offensive?
I drank a few beers, it seemed funny to me.
Not overly offensive, just more hollow fight talk with a drug addict dig… Nick can handle it but why should he?
It just gets tiresome and lame. On top of the “rape is just love” comment this morning and pestering Jen every second comment has me wondering why he’s even here.
Can a man not try to further his career with a wrestling match and find the love of his life in a comment section? Jen and I have history. She will vouch for me.
Your history is Jen writing a comment and you replying with some sexual innuendo.
She then ignores the comment, then I delete it.
Respect the commentary, or just stay over at STAB and be as offensive as you please.
Not true. We talked about going out for burritos one time.
It’s not just you… Can a Gal just leave a comment without Dudes hitting on her?
Nope, this has been proven time an time again in the interweb arena.
I don’t think that is very reasonable to ask of us. I mean this is a shit show of dicks after all.
Oh, So Men when in the majority can do and act as they please?
It’s kind of like when I was younger: if there was 1 woman in the room the stripper wouldn’t show her vag. It just fucked it up for everyone else.
I’ll ban Jen immediately then.
Is Aldous goggans mate?
Laughter amidst the oblivian. Cheers to held punches.
https://m.youtube.com/watch…
Par for course of alter persona clause Neg.
Sorry Wigg. I was in a cunt of a mood yesterday… I got sorted out last night and the sky’s cleared.
As usual I’m only asking to half pull your socks up.
The deleted Nick post was funny, I’d spent far too much time justifying my actions over revealing Ashton’s IP and it turned me into a defensive knob.
Love ya Nega.
Can we re-reveal the deleted comment? And are you often in such a terrible mood? How did you, do you, sort out such things?
Oh yes, I can re-post!
Wiggs the good troll he is had been building up for a spanking with some terrible STAB like commentary and rape joke directed at our Jen who he and another couple of dual website commentators have a habit of pestering… so he copped the tail end of my mood.
I’m rarely in a mood, but can be alittle bitchy/sulky when I’m feeling like a 13 year old girl though, which unfortunately is quite often.
Like most men, female attention cures all.
whats the secret?
Deadlifts? Russian Kettlebells?
squats I think ,
Sumo deadlifts if you SUC
Genetics!
BeachGrit trunks that never made it into production when it was revealed the print I’d used, from a mural somewhere, was the work of a famous, and perhaps litigious, artist. Seeing Nick tonight, as it happens. I’ll take him a pair! https://uploads.disquscdn.c… https://uploads.disquscdn.c…
Echoes of Echo beach .
The highest point of surf culture and design?
Polka dots Stars and diamonds ,checkerboards and twin fins and laser zaps .Waiting for thrusters and secretly hoping Danny Kwock will slip off those rocks and ding his imported McCoy.Cheyne v MR as MP and black slowly disappear under a new wave of frothing fluoro.On a darker note the absence of females and surfers over the age of 30 in the water and the rise in localism and its associated violence .
Far away in time.
All in all,
it’s just another
prick on a wall.
And that little Ozzie chick said you are alright and she seems woke as fuck!!
She’s still my favourite pro surfer! http://beachgrit.com/2017/0…
At least you are not Rory!!!
Style is not important unless your a vid man…..
My style sucks and at 40+ the bones and arthritis mould the shape. I prefer to go on a Demolition Derby anyway its way more fun than “style”
Style is everything.
Matty wilko has one of The best bankhands in the world. But he is a crab…I bet you if he was a Brazilian he would be a poo stance kook..
Absolutely right. I don’t make the rules though.
Exactly. I’m still trying to work out/accept if you can rip even if you have a horrible style. This troubles me to no end. Incongruent? I think so.
Cody Young a junior from Maui is doing wonderful turns in waves of all size but there is definitely something aesthetically unique ( good / bad or ugly ?)about what he does with his arms/ upper body .A rarity in these days of coaching and video feedback.
i believe this is a problem with the kids who grew up post air-reverse. Kelly/Dorian/Machado generation all just watched Curren, which is still the best idea but then you’ve got Kai Hing and Creed over here getting paid as well.
15 upvotes for style is everything…
I admit my style sucks and you get the votes.
How your fucking style willow.