Nazaré delivers a gem!
What would our world look like without Nazaré? Without the Portuguese chub breaking so picturesquely in front of a lighthouse? Without G-Mac’s wet dream? Well I’ll tell you. Things would predictably dull and the famous XXL Big Wave Awards would be a laughingstock. Or not a laughingstock, just ignored but today nobody can ignore because of Nazaré. Sweet Nazaré and the world-record breaking wave ridden there this winter.
It was a Brazilian man by the name of Rodrigo Koxa who conquered the first ever 80 foot wave. And can you imagine surfing a wave as tall as the Trump Soho Grand? I didn’t think I could until reading a quote from Mr. Koxa on Surfline.
I had an amazing dream the night before. Where I was talking to myself, ‘You gotta go straight down. You gotta go straight down.’ I didn’t really know what it meant. But I figured somebody was talking to me. When I got my wave, I let go of the rope, I started to use my rail to angle towards the shoulder, but then realized, if I used my rail, I’d never get deep. And then I remembered: ‘go straight down.’ When I said it, I remembered my dream. I turned and I almost fell, but then I got my feet again and went super fast. I’ve never had a big wave like that where I didn’t use the rail at all. Just went straight down. It was amazing.
I hear the same small, still voice when I surf. It whispers “go straight…” “go straight…” “go straight…use neither rail nor fin and go straight all the way.”
Heeding its clarion call, I have been privileged and honored to watch shoulders race on without me. Barrels curling empty toward the horizon. I am now happy to know that someday, maybe soon, I too will go straight into the record books.