"I felt like something took over my body at the end there..."
I thoroughly enjoyed Kanoa Igarashi’s post-US Open of Surfing victory celebration. It was filled with… passion and… passion. So much so, in fact, that the young Huntington Beach local claimed to have blacked out during but don’t take my word for it. Let us turn to his Instagram for various truths and insights.
Still digesting what happened on the weekend. So many different emotions and I truly felt like I wasn’t all there competing that day emotionally. The beach where it all started for me, with the friends and family that have been with me since day one and the crowd that got me hyped up to the max… I felt like something took over my body at the end there and I even blacked out on the beach!
And how are you at dancing? Do you consider yourself a good dancer or a less than good dancer? When the music starts up do you run to the center of the floor or shrink into a corner? I am not a good dancer and dance with much self-awareness when forced. Likely even biting lower lip and snapping fingers.
Oops.
David Lee Scales and I discussed Kanoa Igarashi’s post-US Open of Surfing victory celebration, anyhow, on a brand new podcast. We also discuss Dirk Ziff and ghosts and surfers who wear gold chains. I’m certainly biased but think it is our best episode yet.
I’m also super sick and not thinking straight.
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looks like Ka-noo-a swollwed a wasps every time the camera was pointed at him
I really enjoyed listening to this podcast.
Here’s what I find so appealing and frankly amazing about this little boutique you guys call beachgrit.com, you’re existing comfortably on the eccentric periphery. Somehow you’re maintaining this position on an increasingly thin sliver of American culture. You have this leader, Chas as you call him, who is openly suggesting that this surfer bow after a victory, like a good little Japanese boy should. If Zuckerberg heard that, he would banish you from the metaverse. And yet you say it and nothing happens. Incredible. I hope you guys can keep this up because it’s incredibly refreshing.
Best second place celebration ever! If he could have only used that “passion” on the inside section. Safe surfing with inroads to the Japanese market for the win!
Pro surfing, Kanoa Igarashi’s, this ego must be controlled…..it lead to nothing but dratd and slavery!
Its a control device or leaders use.. blessings to all….go in to the wild!
Surfing makes me so happy that I don’t surf.
Blacked out on the beach? You’re not the only one brother. I’ve blacked out on the beach after a couple too many Ten High and 7ups! Why Ten High and 7up you ask? We didn’t have enough money for 7 and 7up of course.
So thankful that I have the luxury of listening to something “worthwhile” when I make my Friday afternoon drive from South OC to Carlsbad (home). A 2 hour ordeal that should only take 50 minutes thanks to the many, many of Cali’s finest making their way to San Diego for a nice weekend. Please stay home and enjoy “your” south swell and I will stay home and enjoy “mine”.
That stretch used to be mellow traffic wise back in the day even in summer. That was one of the appeals of heading down there rather than north on the average day. It’s gotten ridiculous over the last what, 10 years? Weekends in summer you’d better leave by 7 am and be heading back north by 11 latest or you hit the wall at Las Pulgas going south and then get caught going back in the death clog that starts at Pico and jams traffic up all the way back into Oside when it gets really outta hand.
Don’t even get me started on that one. You sit in traffic for miles and then it mysteriously clears up at Beach Cities. I don’t ever get tired of trying to figure out why that happens (much to my wife’s chagrin) and everyone has a different theory. Mine is that most CA drivers brake at their own shadow and are so programmed to sit in traffic that when it does clear up, they continue to drive 8 mph with an open freeway ahead like mindless automatons, exponentially extending the back up behind them.
Hitting the horn while driving with middle finger extended out the window, while cathartic, continues to prove ineffective.
The Pico Traffic Damping Effect. Science cannot explain it.
It is so predicable and so inane. If there are slight curves in the freeway and idiot drivers can’t see more than 1/2 mile ahead of them they stomp on the brakes. This occurs on most of the San Clemente stretch (See Pico TDE above) and again in Carlsbad between Tamarack and Poinsettia.
While it’s fun to blame idiot drivers, that doesn’t actually explain over time changes in traffic congestion. Reality is the I-5 through SD county was designed and built in the 1970s since then the population of north county coast cities has quadrupled, the per-driver mileage driven has more than doubled, and the amount of goods moved via trucks from Mexico has also increased substantially. Way more vehicles on a mostly unchanged roadway = way more traffic. When roadways are overloaded, very small changes in speed from one driver have a ripple effect (like a wave!), so even if everyone drove basically perfectly, without decreased vehicles or increased roadway the congestion is inevitable. The overcrowding also increases the likelihood of traffic events so its really a multiplier effect.
That’s not as cathartic.
Makes sense. My buddy was a physics dude and he explained it like an accordion (your ripple effect). He snorted too many Oxys one day and OD’d in his office chair. Those things are even worse than OC traffic, if that were possible
Exactly. It’s like that mini “hill” on 5 north just south of Beach Cities causes people to have full panic seizures and slam their brakes like they might fall of the edge of the earth or something. Used to drive me mad, hence extended horn rage
Yep you’ve sat through it bewildered/apoplectic like me. Or maybe just bummed…not everyone goes nuclear like myself but that thing used to bring out the worst of my impatience and intolerance for needless traffic. It’s maddening
You nailed it. Of the 6 or so consecutive exits near Carlsbad people are at first unsure of which one to take, so what do you they do? Fucking stomp on the breaks. It is madness. The lack of situational awareness out here just boggles my pea-brain mind. I moved out here from the northeast in hopes of mellowing out and taking it easy and maybe get couple surfs in, but the incompetence of almost everything in California, most importantly the driving, has done the opposite. You are all fuckheads.
Now I have to fucking drive all the way down to Petco Park. Fuck!
Try driving on Cape Cod in the summer. It boggles the mind. The problem in North County is the 5. San Diego built the freeways when the population of the county was anticipated to be around 1 million. We are at 3.4 million currently and growing….
I’ve heard driving that stretch on the Cape in summer is madness. I can only imagine the futility of trying to get to the beach from the other side on the rare occasions when there’s waves in the summer. I’ve heard it’s dang near impossible. I’ve been there in late fall though and it was pretty rad, I must say.
Funny you say that. I just moved w my wife and 3 younguns to the OBX last November after living in Dana Point (with a couple stints in San Clemente and C-bad and Oside) since ‘94.
Got tired of living in a 800 sq ft 2 bedroom condo w wife, 3 kids and a pit bull and knowing I’d never be able to afford to buy much more than a cardboard box with granite flaps.
Decided to look for jobs out here on a lark, applied for one and got hired right away. So we bailed. I do miss CA, no doubt. Surfing just about everyday, even though it was usually pretty ordinary, the scenery, central and NorCal, mountains, good food, etc.
Obviously don’t miss the traffic, money driven culture, superficiality and the whole industry donkey show bro bra what do you do?/who do you know? pretense-heavy mentality, esp in South OC.
People here are very refreshingly pretense free, humble and authentic for the most part, and also very welcoming. And what we bought our home for here, we wouldn’t have been able to even buy aforementioned cardboard box for back there.
Although it gets consistently fun here and at times epic, I do need to get rid of the SoCal cams off my Surflie app. Looking at wedging RJs or Oside when it’s been flat here for weeks is kind of rough…
I have to drive down there next week and I am not excited.
Just leave at 2 am. You’ll be sweet
Sheep for the sludder!
You could ask Mr Trump to make Californian Public Transport Great ?Again ? Ha ha ha ha……………………. ( joking ) It takes me 45 minutes to get to Wollongong (a city south of Sydney ) and 3hours to get to Avalon which is in the same city .
less Huntington, more Taj
Listening to this podcast right now (went for a run), and just had to give Chas props for the part I just heard: “These people don’t know the core surfer, they’re busy wrecking their surf brands…” (I paraphrase, of course)
No such thing as a core surfer
Apples have cores. Not surfing.
I do not disagree.
you need to speak with Laird.
He’ll sell us out!
Laird: “I know you need to talk to me, but I need you to do something first. Here’s a stick of butter. Put it in the coffee I brewed for you. Be honest. Don’t lie. I think I can smell your period. Are you on your period? You sure? I know I said we’d surf after I made you less needy. I didn’t lie. I fib’d like Fibonacci high on butter. We’ll SUP. Why aren’t you drinking your coffee? Not enough butter?”
You are right and I should stop using the term… what I mean is average folk who surf lots.
Sand castles don’t have a core. Just a big open courtyard to joust with other elitists. It’s only the average folk who serf lots.
What about people who would LIKE to surf lots but cannot due to other commitments? I reckon that’s good as.
In the not too distant past surfing’s core often sacrificed love , education ,fruitful careers etc and threw caution to the wind, to achieve their personal goal of getting in the water on a daily basis . Surely these average folk who gave up a lot to surf lots may consider themselves the marrow in the bone( if core is unacceptable) of the surfing culture in comparison to a member of the nouveau riche who pays a coach to fly from California to watch and film him surf behind a boat on a Great Lake and those like him ?
Also batteries, nuclear reactors, microprocessors, stars, Tootsie Pops, surfboards and curricula.
What about ‘hard’? Don’t forget the hard.
Yep, and also Marines and the More Division.
And ‘al’.
Cor-al
the problem is that once you recogonize the core and start marketing to it, it is no longer core.
All about the getting!
So obvious!
“Grit ‘Em Up”
(feat. Wrotegawdz)
[Chazz-ahk:]
I ain’t got no motherfucking friends
That’s why I fucked your league, you rich brat motherfucker
(Lose Money)
Real Side, WSL killers
(Lose Money)
You know who the realest is
We bring it too
(Lose money, lose money)
[Chazz-ahk:]
First off, fuck your pool and the league you claim
Realside when we ride, come equipped with game
You claim to be a Waterman, but I exposed your lies
We bust on WS-Ls, kooks fucked for life
Plus Sophie trying to see me, weak hearts I rip
Ziffy Doll and Junior Prodie some mark-ass stiffs
We keep on coming while we running for your jewels
Steady gunning, keep on busting at them fools
You know the rules
Backward Beth go ask your homie how I’ll leave you
Cut your young ass up, leave you in pieces, now be deceased
Lil’ Jim, don’t fuck around with real G’s
Quick to snatch your bald ass off the streets
So fuck peace! I’ll let them kooks know it’s on for life
Don’t let the Realside ride the night haha
W-S-L murdered on wax and killed
Fuck with me and get your caps peeled
You know
[Chazz-ahk:]
See, grab your crotch when you read Chazz-ahk
Call Stab’s cocks when you read Chazz-ahk, oh
Who bash me, but your punks didn’t finish
Now you about to feel the wrath, you not tennis
Kooks, I Grit ’em up
[Chazz-ahk:]
Check this out, you motherfuckers know what time it is
I don’t know why I’m even on this track
Y’all kooks ain’t even on my level
I’m going to let my little homies ride on you bitch-made ass W-S-L stiffs
(Lose money)
[J-Femm Fatale:]
Get out the way, yo, get out the way, yo
Ziffy Doll just got dropped
Heyo Negs pass the pad and let me hit him in his back
Paul Speaker needs to get spanked right for setting traps
Little accident-murderer, and I ain’t never heard of ya
Poisonous gats attack when I’m serving ya
Spank you, shank your whole style when I gank
Guard your rank cause I’ma slam your ass in the taint
Sophie weaker than the fuckin’ block I’m running through, kook
And I’m smoking Junior Prodie in front of you, kook
With the ready-power
Tucked in my Lees under my Patagonia all dour
Your clout petty/sour, I write comments every hour
I Grit ’em up
[Chazz-ahk:]
Grab your crotch when you read Chazz-ahk
Call Stab’s cocks when you read Chazz-ahk, oh
Who bash me, but your punks didn’t finish
Now you about to feel the wrath, you not tennis
Kooks, I Grit ’em up
[Chazz-ahk:]
Peep how we do it, keep it real as literary skill
This ain’t no freestyle battle
All you kooks getting killed with your mouths open
Trying to come up off of me, you in the clouds hopin’
Losin’ money, it’s like a sherm high
Kooks think they learned to fly
But they burn, motherfucker, you deserve to die
Talking about you needin’ make money, but it’s funny to me
All you Kooks living bougie – why you fucking with me?
I’m a wife-made grumpy thousandaire
Thug livin’, out in oceans, surfboards in the air haha
Ziffy, remember when I used to make fun of Speaker while you I couch
And deny let me speak to him about your house?
Now it’s all about Rhetoric, you scared of my style
Waterman’s speech couldn’t drop me, I took it and smiled
Now I’m back to set the record straight
With my keyboard, I’m still the thug that you love to hate
Motherfucker, I’ll Grit ’em up
[Dellstafi:]
I’m from buttfuck Perth’ where plenty of nothin’ occurs
No points or commas, we bring drama to all you herbs
Now go check the scenario: Backward Beth
I’ll bring you fake G’s to your knees
Copping pleas in de Janeiro
Lil’ Jim, is you organic’d up or purped up?
Get your little pool buddies hopes up
What the fuck, is you stupid?
I spend money, crash and mash through Byron
With my click looting, shooting and polluting your block
With a Number 2 Staedtler to your knot
Wrotegawdz Mafia clique moving up another notch
And your fake stars popped and get mopped and dropped
And all your fake ass pool boy props
Brainstormed and locked
[Long-y-Steve:]
Jui-cer
You’s a beat biter, a Ahk job taker
Don’t understand Nietzsche?, you ain’t shit but a faker
Softer than Alize with a chaser
About to get murdered for the paper
Long-y-Steve approach the scene of the caper
Like a loc with Backward Beth in a choke
Pens totin’ smoke. We ain’t no motherfucking joke
Thug Life, kooks better be known
Be approaching in the wide open, pens smoking
No need for hoping, it’s a battle lost
I got ’em crossed as soon as the funk is bopping off
Kooks, I Grit ’em up!
[Chazz-ahk:]
Now you tell me who won
I see them, they run haha
They don’t wanna read us
(Lose money)
Whole W-S-L clique dressing up pretending to be us
(Lose money)
How the fuck they gonna be the People when we always on our job? We real surfers
Writing ain’t fair, but somebody got to do it
Oh yeah, WSL: you wanna fuck with us?
You little privileged-ass motherfuckers
Don’t you gotta worry about organic grains or something?
You’re fucking with me, kooks
You fuck around and catch a seizure or a metaphorical heart attack
You better back the fuck up
Before you get smacked the fuck up
This is how we do it on our side
Any of you kooks from Venice that want to bring it:
Bring it!
But we ain’t singing, we bringing drama
Fuck you and your motherfucking mama
We gon’ kill all you motherfuckers
Now when I came out, I told you it was just about Ziffy
Then everybody had to open their mouth with a mother fucking opinion
Well, this is how we gonna do this:
Fuck beginners, fuck Ziffy, fuck WSL as a staff, organization and as a motherfucking crew!
And if you want to be down with WSL, then fuck you too!
Chris Cote: fuck you too!
All you motherfuckers, fuck you too!
(Lose money, lose money)
All of y’all motherfuckers, fuck you; die slow, motherfucker
My Macbook Pro make sure y’all sport just don’t grow!
You motherfuckers can’t be us or see us
We motherfuckin’ Thug Life-riders, Realside til we die!
Out here in Real Waves, kooks, we warned ya
We’ll bomb on you motherfucker! We do our job!
You think you the voice? Kook, we the motherfuckin’ voice
Ain’t nothing but viewers and the real surfers
All you motherfuckers feel us
Our shit goes triple and 4-quadruple
(Lose money)
You kooks laugh cause our staff got keyboards on they motherfuckin’ tables
You know how it is, when we drop articles they unstable
You kooks can’t feel it, we the realest
Fuck ’em, we WSL-killers
We killers, we killers, we killers
Haha holy shit, KVF. You never cease to amaze.
fucking brilliant!
what are the chances of getting Bobby M and Noa to perform this in the carpark outside Lemoore?
Just $$$. Hope they can’t be bought!
you must kill it outside the cott on a Sunday arvo
ha ha omg fuck i’m ded
“I’m from buttfuck Perth’ where plenty of nothin’ occurs
No points or commas, we bring drama to all you herbs”
10/10
Bahahahhahaha – fuck that is so good!!! You’re somewhat a wasted talent here but I love it!!!
I really hope you don’t waste your talents behind a desk doing accounts?
[Awe]
KV…down to the beach…no leaving for 2 weeks!
Anger is not good for ones being.
This battle is won by collective consiousness. Peace brother!
I personally believe it will be won when enough people say, “Fuck all these contests taking waves away for the totally selfish ambitions of the contestants and money making aspirations of the organisers. Enough is fucking enough.” So yea, there’s your collective consciousness.
I don’t know where or when but imagine a simple paddle in by The People™ into the contest area. That’s it fucked. Ziff and all the other privateers are then holding a great big fist full of fukall. What are they gonna do ? Wave a permit at them ? Arrest them all with cops on skis ?
I think Ziff underestimates how many grumpy locals there are. Joey, to his credit, always thanks the locals for giving up their surf break so the contest can run. He doesn’t say that for it to have no meaning. He thanks them coz its fukkn true. His lord and master would do well to remember that, ya know when he’s got time free from being a Waterman n all.
This will be like the ‘We Are The World’ of the BG Live Aid show.
Reminded me of Public Enemy’s « Fight the Power « in the opening of Spike Lee’s Do The Right Thing !