We're surfers for pity's sake!
This damned Miki Dora thing has caught me off guard, to be honest. I thought sporting hero worship was the exclusive realm of stick-n-ball sports. Of weirdo American football lovers, European soccer freaks and Aussie Rules manics though I count myself among the latter.
But Miki Dora? Mickolsossos Dora? You are willing to throw your own living life on the man who surfed Malibu exceptionally but nowhere else’s tombstone?
Why?
What is the goal?
What is the aim?
He surfed Malibu exceptionally yes, wrote a bunch of bad checks was racist, anti-Semetic and shot the derelict surfer narrative over the moon. I would theoretically like him for the derelict surfer bit except he was a sue-hound too. A perpetually aggrieved whiner who sued and sued and sued his way through middle age. Who leaned on the courts and the law and “The Man” to pressure others to give him his “fair shake.”
I fucking hate “fair shakes.”
I fucking hate lawsuits.
I fucking hate men who call the cops when a conversation, or fight, would settle it.
So worship Miki Dora but worship him clear-eyed and allow surfing to be a place where truth and honesty reign.
Yeah Miki was a racist, anti-Semetic suer. Yeah Andy was a drug fiend. Yeah Jeff Hakman co-founded Quiksilver over a doily of cocaine. Yeah yeah yeah fucking yeah surfers are the worst.
Why do we even try and protect the dead feelings of the derelict assholes amongst us?
I’ll beg you right now. When I’m done and dusted I hope I’m worthy of the remaining of you shitting on me all day and single every day.
Please.
My dying wish.
Talk about how I was an Oregonian nobody. Write about how I couldn’t get barreled at Kelly Slater’s Surf Ranch without getting hurt. Scream about my shit shit pumping down the line at two-foot George’s in my once-agrarian Cardiff by the Sea this morning, if you even remember me at all because…
…WE’RE SURFERS.
Let’s just be us. Let’s just be surfers. It’s honestly all we have but worth more than anything else.
Yeah?
Tell me what you want on your own damed tombstone.
What is your memorial?
I’m always shocked at how much money people spend on weddings and funerals; such a waste. The trash can is a bit too disrespectful even for the most wretched of us; maybe throw your body into a shark feeding frenzy? At least there’d be some entertainment.
Seems da Cat has 9 lives and will be around long after you (Chas) ride your last wave. Whatever his flaws, he was more of a hardcore surfer (and rode more waves) than anyone on this website, surfing into his 60s until cancer stopped him. At his core–was just this guy– who loved to surf………
If Miki Dora had grown up surfing in New Jersey he would have been dead by age 20.
Haha da cat has 9 lives…..
Nope just one like all the rest of us, and his is over. Sounds like he died bitter and lonely, which I wouldn’t wish on anybody but is most likely a result of the choices he made. As you well know, “you reap what you sow”
Well, he passed away at his father’s home and was visited by quite a few well known people from the surf community when they found out he was ill.
Dora died of pancreatic cancer in 2002, at Miklos’ (his father’s) house in Montecito, where he spent the last three months of his life. The two men grew closer during that period than they’d ever been. Dora spent a good part of his declining weeks on phone with old friends, receiving visitors, saying goodbye—being civil and decent in a way that seemed to reflect directly on Miklos. It was a lot of people’s belief that, in the end, Dora’s better, more honorable side came to the fore.
When one person came by to visit him he was sunbathing and joked –“well, got to die with a tan”. Pretty funny. Doesn’t sound too bitter to me. I could tell you more but I don’t have the time. Take care.
No memory of me when I die. It will be some other asshole’s turn at life.
What is it with fucking yanks thinking Jeff Hackman founded quiksilver?
just yesterday read the excerpts from Nat Young’s Church of the Open Sky in the latest TSJ (28.5) on Dora… I suggest all give it a look on the topic Chas is analyzing here… I clearly did not know a complete picture of the man that comes into focus in the excerpt… on the other hand, looking back at your view here Chas and agreeing with it, I still will have a hard time divorcing myself from own fanboy adulation for Nathan Fletcher… my dilemma…
“Just because I dunk a basketball doesn’t mean I should raise your kids”
Charles Barkley
“knew how to have fun”
“Jeep”
A Chase Smith quote–“He (Dora) is just not my favorite and I made it clear why not. I’ve had fat babies call the cops on me. I’ve had other fat babies sue me. I will never stoop to that nonsense and —-LOATHE— anyone who does.” —Chase, I think your quote above sheds some light on the source of your dislike (animosity) towards Dora. Who’s the person who called the cops and filed lawsuits against you? Your girlfriend or maybe an Ex.? A lawsuit (being sued) can be very ‘traumatic’–lawyers–attorney fees–judges–judgments. It can leave a ‘scar’.
You already said above you–“Loathe”–anyone that files a lawsuit– it seems you have a ‘predetermined prejudice’ against someone who files a lawsuit. Does it remind you of past hurts and opens new wounds? Seems you might be projecting “your” hurt from “your” past lawsuits onto Dora cause he also filed some lawsuits. It’s ok Chase, you can get help these days, therapy.
You are exactly right. I have real beef with lawsuits, especially frivolous ones and I should calm down.
Lawsuits and yellow beanies. I mean there’s moral conduct and fashion at stake.
Ha, he tried to file a lawsuit to protect his image and rights. Try and record and use a video from one of the Wsl events today (which all the wsl boys agreed to) and you’ll be sued and most likely prosecuted to the full extent of the law. Looks like Dora was just ahead of his time.
I’m surprised you’re surprised by this Chester.
From everyone’s local to the halls of surfing Valhalla, heaps of cuntish behaviour has been, and continues to be, excused because the culprit’s surfing was/is exceptional.
Outstanding summary !
Shhhhh…I’m taking a dirt nap.
would like to be donated to science. throw my corpse to the sharks, if my bloated carcass washes up a couple of weeks later then it proves they don’t like eating people and they are just thrill killing.
“540 or Bust”
Happy B-Day BG co-founder D. Rielly.
up to his nuts in no good I hope.
Do you think your astro sign should be related to your conception date?
I can’t see how moving thru an impossibly tight tunnel can affect your sign.
It’s a major flaw in their credibility I believe.
He got a really good review for his new book on Gulpilil today.
Just roll my goddamn spent carcass into a gutter. I’ll be dead and I promise I won’t care. Although you could also etch “Go ahead, say whatever the fuck. I’m dead.” on my improbable gravestone.
guttermouth
“He loved surfing more than any of you cunts.”
EAsy to take on an ancient “idol” but will you chastise the infatuation/devotion to Andy?
Cue the angry fan boys….
just keep in mind hippy that you are talking about someone that has friends and loved ones still here.
And people who did not think highly of him on land….
Notice the last two words
just think about it
already have, as a society we have to separate celebrity from reality.
first rule of being a hippy?
be kind
Look man, you’re friends with industry people. Cool. We make fun of Nick cause he is an ad copy writer, too friendly with his subjects to be taken seriously. The post by Chas is about the boundary between fandom and the actual story. There is no greater example than your friend Andy.
I watched shit go down that I could only tell you face to face. I know how his binge turned into a corporate stream of lies and how the same corp was enabling the behavior that ended his gig.
Got no beef with you or any of his pals, but there is another opinion. If Chas is gonna roast Miki, decades later, you’d think he’d be cool with other names. Roasting Miki is cheap and lazy/easy and I don’t give a fuck about him. Much more pertinent stories for Mr Chas to explore. Derek already failed to be curious (Stab).
the society that you speak of is sociopathic. dont fall prey to becoming a mirror of it
I agree with the broad brush of your first sentence.
peace
Yeah man. I assume you know the real story. How is someone not in jail? Wouldn’t that be the best way to honor your friend?
surfing is littered with tragedy. best we move forward with healthier attitude.
yes it is. but some tragedies were avoidable, my point.
they all were, hence the tragedy
Pascuales, 1990. AFter a month in the jungle, I contracted a parasite. It was raining every night, brown water more often than not, but pumping waves. I was all over it.
At 6’1″ and training full time, I was at 165lbs. I had lost weight just because I was surfing so much…. but I became sick and lost 15 pounds, full diaherrea vomitting, but still surfing 6 hours a day. This is before Conley brought ski’s and fucking drama.
We drove to Zhijuat airport to pick up two school mates. They freaked when they saw me…. anemic as fuck. We surfed point break for two days and I couldn’t eat. I would slink away to bed after surfing all day, like a zombie. Literally sleeping or surfing.
My boys booked my flight home and drove me to the airport after the next mornings surf….. I was fucking fuming the entire drive, but was nearly out of energy. They flew me home on their credit cards, no one had a dime to their name yet and they pitched in. They could have called my mom, but they took care of it themselves.
One buddy had to drive all the way home by himself, the guy I had come down with. Everyone missed the drive farther into Oaxaca and a secret we had found the year before. Everyone sacrificed so that I made it home alive. Not once in the 30 years since have any of them mentioned that sacrifice.
That’s what friends do when someone needs help.
watch the movie
Does it implicate the corp? It’s like unraveling Trump except no one would do it.
So core!
This is one shit story!
They booked you a flight on a credit card, mate. It’s hardly the stuff of Mother Teresa.
No, it isn’t, but they did the right thing.
Did you see Andy’s heat in Puerto Rico? Anyone could tell he was fucked up. The corp began lying and Andy went to Miami to party. Who was looking out for his best interest? The corp? No, but they managed the aftermath VERY proactively.
I saw Andy in Portugal a month earlier
He looked better than Wilko.
People can offer, even force help but a trying to stop a tornado? No chance.
How did the tornado form Neg?
Billabongs weather manipulation department sure didn’t help.
But ultimately? nature forms tornados Hippy.
no more no less than anywhere else.
So will the current wsl drug policy prevent a recurrence? If not we haven’t moved forward and therefore scandal is required to trigger a step change in attitude.
is there really a drug policy or is that just talk?
You inferring someone at Bong was his supplier…?
On W.B. Yeat’s gravestone, in the wave rich county of Sligo, it is written “cast a cold eye on life, on death, horseman, pass by.” I visited it with a friend who asked “Who would want to be buried beside him?”
I’m a synthetic. Created in 2069.
what mission did they send you back to 2019 for?
Spread the climate change myth in order that all the rich cunts fuk off to Mars in fear.
Then what happens is white people become slaves and servants prompting calls of racism towards their masters of colour,
Heterosexuality is also frowned upon so as to curb population growth.