Matt George, at left, and back when he was a handsome and very ripe actor, the sort who endorses shampoo, and Matt Warshaw, cherished and adored, then, as now.

Warshaw: “When the last analog version of a surf movie or magazine disappears, that’s it, game over, kiss it goodbye!”

Matt Warshaw needs your money to help save surf history and culture from the abyss…

A few days ago, Matt Warshaw, the surf historian who spends his days at his Seattle home surrounded by surf-centric books and wrapped in a tartan robe parted at a forbidden delta, launched his biennial donation appeal, subscriber drive.

If you don’t wanna dive even deeper, sign up here (it’s three bucks a month, for christ’s sake) or donate  a little something.

If you’re late to the game, you’ll remember in December, 2017, when Warshaw announced he would quit and take his archive with him if thirty thousand dollars wasn’t donated immediately. Warshaw had made a deal with his wife in 2011 that if it wasn’t in the black within a year, expenses paid, he pulling out a modest salary, he’d shutter it.

One year turned into five.

‘It’s just kind of humiliating, to be 57 and making what I make. It feels like a judgement,” Warshaw said in 2017. “EOS, I think, does a such a good job at showing the world of surf in full. Look at us, maybe the most fucked-up wonderful interesting thing on the planet, it’s all here on the three sites I’ve made, in photos, video, and words — and for building that I get less than I did as a SURFER intern in 1985. It’s humbling. When I step away from the computer a few hours and think about it, I can get depressed.”

As Nick Carroll, another great surf writer who spends his days plucking at his dressing gown, wrote,

“Surfing is not culturally anything like it once was. It now has its very own .01% of very rich people. Eye wateringly, unnecessarily rich people. I hear about new ones every day. Most recently I heard about a near-billionaire ex tech guy who takes his chef and sommelier with him on surf trips, on chartered planes, and pays skilled older surfers to go with him too. Another one who has several people on permanent retainer combing the world for the best next surf trip he can take. Elsewhere this .01% is busy re-shaping the sport wherever they can, making it go to the Olympics, putting it on show in lakes, doing pretty much everything except just fucking leaving it alone. Here’s a thought for the .01%. You wanna be the modern Medicis of surfing? Well then be patrons. Fund the work of Warshaw and people like him. Don’t buy them, back them. Give everyone else in surfing a reason to like you.”

Anyway, the response was very good, Warshaw even squeezing six thousand American dollars out of us (which we’ve almost paid in full, one or two more instalments to go).

Now, he needs a little more.

And the advertisement-free Encyclopedia of Surfing, which is a fully registered 501(c)(3) nonprofit, which means it’s tax deductible, has its phones and arms open for surfers who want to do something tangible for the culture they love and loathe in equal measures.

Warshaw, of course, has been responsible for some of the sharper stories on BeachGrit including: (On wavepools) “We’ve traded magic for Perfection!“, (On the death of filmmaker Bill Delaney) “It may be shameful but every time a famous surfer dies I get this initial rush, almost like a fire alarm going off!” and (On Kelly Slater’s Sound Waves episode), “I watched Sound Waves, Kelly Slater twice. It’s almost druggy, like MDMA!”

A man as precious and loyal, and as secretly wanton, as any that has walked the earth.

Here’s his spiel.

I’m a full-time EOS employee, developer Mark Augias is part-time—and that’s it for staff. This year’s fundraiser is mostly about getting another pair of hands involved. $50K in combined donations and new subscriptions gets us a new part-time person and throws some more hours Mark’s way. $100K gets us a full-timer, more hours for Mark, and a small raise for me—I’m doing EOS for $30K a year and I’d be lying to say I’m not looking for a pay bump.

What’s on our to-do list for 2020? Apart from creating and improving the pages you already know (Encyclopedia of Surfing, History of Surfing, Above the Roar), we’ve just added beta versions for two new EOS areas: Surfboards and Contests. Click here to see a Surfboard page, and here for a Contest page. Both environments are already functional and integrated with the rest of the site, but they need hundreds of pages to really lift off—which means added work hours, which means staffing up.

Meanwhile, we’re still doing the non-sexy stuff: digitizing movies and videos, scanning old surf mags, tagging, keywording, databasing. The preservation work isn’t glamorous, but it’s the most important thing EOS does. We have to grab this stuff now. When the last analog version of a surf movie or magazine disappears or is forgotten, that’s it, game over, kiss it goodbye. So again, more hands at EOS means more surf history and culture saved from the abyss.

Click here to watch the fundraiser movie.

And, once convinced, subscribe here and donate here. 

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OriginalJud
OriginalJud
6 years ago

$25

@surfads
@surfads
6 years ago

Good advice Jen!

channelbottom
channelbottom
6 years ago

Is that a Carcass quote?

Murdoch Kookmeister
Murdoch Kookmeister
6 years ago

Is Surfing the Ultimate Mid-Life Crisis Endeavor?
Forget motorcycles, Rogaine, Jiu Jitsu and Ciagra. Between Kelly Slater still on tour in his 60’s, Bethany Hamilton surfing through motherhood, Laird’s superfood and workout regimen, now surf historian Matt Warshaw claims he caught the best waves of his life in his 40’s!
Does this mean there is still time for first ballot VAL hall of famer Erik Logan to learn to surf a short board? What’s more compelling than a post athletic prime adult male pumping down the line with that disco hip swivel and clock arm rotation? Will the WSL turn this phenomenon into a documentary project? Transformed season 3?

Beef & Beer
Beef & Beer
6 years ago

Only for late blossomers.
No.
Uncommentable.
Hopefully not.
…?.

SSD
SSD
6 years ago

Xlnt!

Javi Muñoz Pacotwo
Javi Muñoz Pacotwo
6 years ago

Can´t believe this is happening…this man should not be asking for “charity” anymore. Where are the brands? Instragraming I guess…or that billionaire who feeds WSL?

Matt Warshaw
Matt Warshaw
6 years ago

“Cronulla” isn’t even in the Top 20 cringey bits from the Surf Into Summer VO.

Matt Warshaw
Matt Warshaw
6 years ago

The Wiki idea is good, but it’s a different project from EOS. The book version came out in 2010, and all I could think of was It needs pictures and video. The website, boiled down, is me trying to illustrate the book. Every pic and every vid clip on there—the photos and filmmakers donated their stuff to EOS, because they liked the book, or because they know me, or who knows why. It is the miracle upon which the site is built. EOS looks the way it does because all those guys, Bruce Brown, Falzon, MacGillivray, Steele, Neville, Divine, Brewer, Bolster, on and on and on, actually let EOS use their stuff no charge. The surf Wiki could cover so much more ground than EOS, but the pix and video part would be really difficult; the photogs rightly hate having their work posted without permission.

WavePrizm
WavePrizm
6 years ago

Inside, the date was “Now”

WavePrizm
WavePrizm
6 years ago

“Don’t Look Back”
“Anticipation of things to come is more exciting than trying to hold on to things already over.”
– Note from a wise friend, December 1989 https://uploads.disquscdn.c…

Justin Housman
Justin Housman
6 years ago

Hey – anybody want to buy some hard copies of EOS or History of Surfing? Still have cases of them in my garage. You reading this Matt? I just move ’em around from one corner to the other. Still some t-shirts too. Check out my ebay page for best pricing.

Matt Warshaw
Matt Warshaw
6 years ago
Reply to  Justin Housman

Hey Justin I’ll take the lot, I have zero hardcover copies of HOS or EOS. Pack and ship and send me the bill. T-shirts too.

Hippy
Hippy
6 years ago

“Parted at a forbidden delta…” LOL. “secretly wanton”….

Nick’s in a dressing gown too… wow, DR is channeling his fantasies into comedy gold.

Donate

Hippy
Hippy
6 years ago
Reply to  Hippy

Amazon account? That’s like asking me to sign up for Facebook to watch shitty heats in Portugal.

Matt Warshaw
Matt Warshaw
6 years ago
Reply to  Hippy

scroll down. PayPal and credit card acccepted

Poop Stance
Poop Stance
6 years ago
Reply to  Matt Warshaw

I subscribe and donated a little more. I like the new surfboard history addition too. Thanks Matt!

Subantarctic Communist Sealion
Subantarctic Communist Sealion
6 years ago
Reply to  Hippy

Theres surfing on facebook? … im still not signing up.

PerthsStraighthanders
PerthsStraighthanders
6 years ago

Waiting for Chas’ Encyclopedia of Shark Stories…happily throw in a few bucks

Numbnuts
Numbnuts
6 years ago

Dear Jen,
What happens to the world if this pic disappears?

james shaw
james shaw
6 years ago

“Surfers: the Movie” was the one of the greatest surf movies ever and its gone.
Why?
its was all about surfing from the mouths of the surfers themselves

Chief Hot stuff
Chief Hot stuff
6 years ago

There is a Nazca line the shape of a wave pool.

James Bickerton
James Bickerton
6 years ago

If Matt had only said “Kurranulla” , an aboriginal word meaning “ place of pink seashells “ from which the name Cronulla is derived ……. instead of rhyming it with granola .
As for history , who was the best surfer from the 60s Dave Nuuhiwa or Nat …. or Midget or Lynch or a Hawaiian ? Depending on one’s allegiance I suppose ?

james shaw
james shaw
6 years ago

or style preference

Justin Housman
Justin Housman
6 years ago

The answer is Lynch to anybody with functioning eyeballs

samwaters
samwaters
6 years ago
Reply to  Justin Housman

Well said…..

samwaters
samwaters
6 years ago

Lynch looked way ahead of everybody, even Nat…

Huli Opu
Huli Opu
6 years ago

I applaud your efforts Warshaw but I tend to agree with these comments cribbed from Surfermag especially the last one :

> This would be a much better product if the “history” wasn’t so skewed to the surf industry. The gaps and omissions are glaring and egregious.

> In his telling of surf history he completely ignored Yater! Did Renny hurt your feelings? R.K.

> Get a life Warshaw “Nobody knows, nobody cares” and the numbers prove it!

> Put a boxing ring in front of a hospital . Line up all the male former employees of surfer . I will teach them journalism one at a time

> I’m sure Warshaw is a nice enough dude but as others point out, his entries are very incomplete and woefully skewed to a Cali/Aus perspective. There are an incredible amount of notable omissions esp with regard to Hawaiian perspective. It’s at best a myopic journal that only serves to perpetuate false gods and cults of undeserving personalities. That said, Warshaw’s trying the wrong formula. Just put it online for free and advertise. He’s never going to get enough people to subscribe.

Waterproof Polo
Waterproof Polo
6 years ago
Reply to  Huli Opu

Your point about the boxing ring and former surfer crew is exceptional.. I dare say they aren’t too welcome on Hawaii? Who’d cop the hardest crack, gotta be old mate Benny yeah?
I reckon Matt does a pretty great job but I guess I feel ya on the dangerous stories, I’d like to hear the scoop from someone who definitely knows the inner workings, and also about it being Aus/Cali centric. More Hawaii stuff would be rad. The history chapter about the ’69 swell was so sick.

Huli Opu
Huli Opu
6 years ago

Ah Polo, the animosity between Hawaiian surfers and the California surf media goes long and deep. I’ve yet to see any surf media outlet with the balls to publish any of the hidden truths that would dispute the manufactured bullshit that has been force fed to surfers for decades. That goes doubly for Chas and Dez too. For all their outlaw claims they’re just too chickenshit and palsy-walsy with their California mates to upset the status quo’s delicate sensibilities. At least Jen grew a pair recently. With Chas and his sharks and Dez with his regurgitated stories about the Ho family it’s all too lazy …

James Bickerton
James Bickerton
6 years ago
Reply to  Huli Opu

Hi Huli Opu . I watched a few years back an interesting discussion ( on video ) under the title of « Making Waves « which took place at UCLA’s Fowler Museum hosted by Shaun Thomson . After viewing « Busting Down The Door « and « Sea of Darkness « there was a discussion with a panel consisting of Reno Abellira, Ian Cairns, Greg Escalante, Jeremy Gosch, Fred Hemmings, Paul Holmes, Jim Kempton, Jericho Poppler, Rory Russell, Tom Stone, Michael Tomson, and Peter Townend. I thought it was going to be a slanging match but it was entertaining and they were funny as fuck but one could still feel the tension between the different parties.

Huli Opu
Huli Opu
6 years ago

I’d like to see Reno, Rory and Pohaku alone together and then ask them what they really think. Oh yeah, and leave Lopez outta of it. He’s the world’s most overrated media manufactured surfer. His faux zen persona is hilarious (sorry Gerry you still my good, small kid days, Niu valley neighbor)

James Bickerton
James Bickerton
6 years ago
Reply to  Huli Opu

The importance of being able to tell your own stories ?

Blank Flag
Blank Flag
6 years ago

Although we are unreliable narrators of our own stories

James Bickerton
James Bickerton
6 years ago
Reply to  Blank Flag

The gravest error a thinking person can make is to believe that one particular version of history is absolute fact….

channelbottom
channelbottom
6 years ago
Reply to  Huli Opu

I’d utterly love to see the Hawaiian-focused raw stories version of EOS. But as you say who WOULD have the alas to lay it all out.

I can hear the excuses already. Even (especially?) from Hawaiian locals.

SectionSB
SectionSB
6 years ago
Reply to  Huli Opu

All the stories are too big for one guy, maybe in time, EOS could include everything every written or podcast or whatever surfing story…from everywhere…. movies books etc….
A portal of sorts. I dont recall reading too many of the entries there, its a bit like an encyclopedia, (whose entries are short and for grade schoolers to do reports from)

Everything! Good Bad and the Ugly.. Library of Babel style.

Justin Housman
Justin Housman
6 years ago
Reply to  Huli Opu

Feel free to shoot me an email I’d be happy to tell some hidden truths if you shared them with me.

Huli Opu
Huli Opu
6 years ago
Reply to  Justin Housman

No thanks Housman. The California surf media apartheid against Hawaiian surfers and writers still exists to this day. Nothing has changed. I doubt you or your mainland publishers would print my stories. Hawaiians gave up on the mainstream corporate surf world long ago.

The thing is, you would’ve thought that so-called surf journalists would have learned a big lesson from Warshaw’s blunder with the EOS entry about Reno 2 years ago. That episode exemplifies everything I’m talking about. Funny cause Reno was such an eloquent and insightful writer too.

Justin Housman
Justin Housman
6 years ago
Reply to  Huli Opu

Okay, suit yourself, but I’m offering to tell the stories you’re saying Californians don’t want to tell.

Huli Opu
Huli Opu
6 years ago
Reply to  Justin Housman

Mahalo nui for the offer Justin. I may just crank up the old memory bank and take you up on it… aloha

Waterproof Polo
Waterproof Polo
6 years ago
Reply to  Huli Opu

That sux re: the animosity.. Hawaii is the shit and every surfer knows this! I guess that we can have these discussions here on BG without any filter says quite a bit about the site. I’m sure Chas and Dez are happy to have it happen on thier site, and I would imagine have taken some hits behind the scenes. That being said, if the industry types are also thier mates, it’s gotta be a difficult call to publish prickly stuff about them.

Mapski
Mapski
6 years ago
Reply to  Huli Opu

Dane Kealoha’s mistreatment by a spiteful ASP could be a volume all its own.

Justin Housman
Justin Housman
6 years ago
Reply to  Mapski

Do tell

Justin Housman
Justin Housman
6 years ago
Reply to  Huli Opu

Matt can defend EOS/HOS himself, but it’s possible the gaps you’re referring to haven’t been digitized yet, and are there in print. When I stopped working on EOS we’d digitized only a part of what had been written years ago…takes lots of time and updating.

Huli Opu
Huli Opu
6 years ago
Reply to  Justin Housman

Nah way off base Justin. There’s nothing there but Californicated nonsense. That’s my whole point. I know because we read every single one of them back to the 60’s. The exclusion of Hawaiian surfers was – and still is – pervasive with sole exception of competing contest Hawaiians.

Justin Housman
Justin Housman
6 years ago
Reply to  Huli Opu

I don’t mean in print, as in, were printed in surf magazines decades ago. I mean that big chunks of EOS that are there in the printed version of EOS have yet to be put online. I have no doubt, however, that you are correct that there are many important Hawaiians that never found their way into magazines or books.

NEGATRON
NEGATRON
6 years ago
Reply to  Huli Opu

Surfer forum, where comments go to die.

Derek Hynd's Missing Fins
Derek Hynd's Missing Fins
6 years ago
Reply to  NEGATRON

They have a comments section? And updated content?

Waterproof Polo
Waterproof Polo
6 years ago

I enjoy EoS and look forward to the emails So much content for the minimal expenditure, it’s fucken fantastic. I would love to see the Quick movie about the ‘90 Eddie digitized if I might be so bold to make a request?
The one where Brock got tubed and took off on the close out and was axed. I owned the VHS as a grom and nearly wore it out, any chance Matt? I’ve scoured the internet and can’t find a stitch of it other than little bits on YouTube.

https://uploads.disquscdn.c…

Matt Warshaw
Matt Warshaw
6 years ago

Hey Polo. I’ve got it digitized and will post soon!

Waterproof Polo
Waterproof Polo
6 years ago
Reply to  Matt Warshaw

Excelente!

Instalo Feedeira
Instalo Feedeira
6 years ago

EOS is the Wikipedia nobody asked for, best of luck to them.


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