A North Shore almost blood bath!
Five days ago, Pipe habitué and singer Landon McNamara, born and raised at Rocky Point by a daddy who invented the chop-hop and whose own Pipe appearances were electrifying, came within inches of losing his face after an ill-timed drop in.
Landon, who is twenty-three years old and who likes to snatch the Second Reef chip-shots on his eight-o Gerry Lopez, just like Liam did in the nineties, says he saw the board coming for him in exquisite, vivid detail.
“Everything was going slow-mo,” says Landon, as he readies himself for an afternoon surf at pumping twelve-foot Pipe. “It was the most slow-motion I’ve ever experienced surfing. I could see, exactly, where the guy fell, where the board went, and where I could go, what line I could take to escape it.”
Now, it ain’t an exaggeration to say that Landon wasn’t overly impressed by the event.
“There’s so many situations out there and when they occur and nothing bad happens, you might be, like, well it wasn’t that bad, it’s all good. But it’s not like that at all. If it happens it can be deadly.”
Still, what he’d like to happen is for surfers to do a little self-examination before they paddle out at Second Reef Pipe and join the boys in that prized take-off area.
“It’s the guys who’ve earned their spots that sit there,” says Landon.
His daddy, Liam, picks up the phone, tells me they don’t want not hassles with anyone. But.
But.
“There has to be an international understanding of the dangers and the pecking order and about earning your stripes there,” he says. “I spent three decades out there to earn my stripes. It took those decades of broken femurs, hips, hands and knees to win it. And, now, I’ve handed my stripes, my war jacket, my medals, to my kids – I’ve taught ’em where to sit, what boards to ride, what waves to look for. But, while Landon has my spot in the lineup, he had to earn it. He had to have the balls to take off. You don’t go out to Second Reef unless you’ve got your stripes. It’s like a war out there. It’s a battle zone and if you haven’t earned the right, and you’re not at the right level, you shouldn’t be there.”
How do you get them pretty stripes?
“There are guys from every different country that come out, humbly earn a wave, ride it well and get that respect. It doesn’t matter what country you’re from. Pipe is the most dangerous wave in the world and it takes years of surfing the wave to earn respect and to understand the lineup. Respect the locals and you will get respect.”
Says Landon, “We want to spread the message of tread lightly, wait your turn and stay out of people’s way.”
I want to know what the shoulder hopper was thinking. Please interview that twat BG!
That whole family are a bunch of entitled fucks. Their behaviour in G-Land one year was the worst I’ve seen in 30 years of surf travel. Total hypocrisy to be crying about it. You reap what you sow ya fuckwits.
Most dangerous? Big call. Teahupoo springs to mind.
They are very white people, the McNamara’s, not Hawaiian in the least. That being said, that guy that dropped in on the guy is hilarious.
The McNamaras are nowhere near “Hawaiian” They’re punk blow-in mainland haole.
Praise be to thee
Hi Huli Opu . I am just wondering in this case if that makes them more or less Hawaiian than the Florences ?
And do you think Haliewa will be on tomorrow or Sunday ?
I was waiting for that question JB. Like Andy, Landon and others, they are haole born and raised in Hawai`i. In that sense they’re Hawaiian-born or local-haole. But just being born here doesn’t make you a “Hawaiian”. Unlike other places, in Hawai`i you must have the koko or bloodline to claim to be Hawaiian. Not just any polynesian bloodline but generations of pre-western contact Hawaiian koko.
As you might imagine, there are heaps of surfers and others who have moved here and want to claim their Hawai`i-born offspring as “Hawaiian”. Sorry bubba, no can do. And naming your kid Nalu, Kimo, Kalohe etc doesn’t help either. Take Rothman. He’s mainland-born haole Jewish but he married a local Hawaiian mix girl so Makua and Koa can rightfully claim to be local Hawaiian/haole hapa mix.
It’s complex and the “local” label is bestowed only if you’re born, raised and schooled here, no matter what ethnicity or race you are. What I don’t particularly like are pros like Zeitz and Benji Brand surfing under the Hawaiian flag. Zeitz should be surfing for Florida and Benji for SA. They weren’t born here and their parents and family aren’t from here. Even Slater told Zeitz that he should be surfing for Florida. A lot of it is attitude too. If you comport yourself with behaviors that don’t exemplify humble and calm Hawaiian values it won’t matter if you’re born and raised here or not. There’s many good mainland haole living here that do act and demonstrate their respect for local Hawaiian ways. There’s also many pilau local Hawaiians that don’t behave and respect others as they should.
As for Landon, I don’t know him but it’s funny watching his dad and uncle trying to speak pidgin and acting like they speak for Hawaiians. They’re correct about Pipe though. Laird’s Hip Replacement stated it well : we’ve patiently shared the north shore for over 60 years with tourist surfers. The least you can do is stay in your lane, know and respect the rules and defer to us who live and surf here full time .
Hawaiian Pro off today. It’s blowing stink 30 knots +. Good for wavesailing hunking Mokes or Backyards with a 4.0 sail. New west swell this weekend but wind is supposed to stick around too. aloha gritters
Thank you Huli .
that’s all fair enough, just let some of the travelling Hawaiians know they need to respect others when they travel too. I have personally experienced many Hawaiians in Indonesia threatening people in the surf and trying to regulate like they do at home. I have heard so many stories and seen it for myself. I recall this season at desert point some guy claiming to be an aikau was bullying other surfers and carrying on like a fool. he pulled a knife on one of the locals, and was chased out of town. when confronted for his dickish behaviour he claimed local status because of his dark skin.
Okay but as the experienced surfer shouldn’t Landon have recognized that the guy who is dropping in on him is a kook and dangerous? But instead of straightening out Landon PULLS IN RIGHT BEHIND THE KOOK WHO IS OBVIOUSLY GONNA BLOW IT!?!?!
long live localism and hawaiian rules
So did the guy get pounded or what?
The hypocritical part of what Liam Mc is saying is that everyone who isn’t related to him needs to earn their place out there, yet his offspring can simply have access to his “stripes.” While being born a McNamara undoubtedly helped these sons get waves initially, they actually earned their stripes by skillfully charging huge waves at Pipe.
Um, he did say that. “while Landon has my spot in the lineup, he had to earn it. He had to have the balls to take off.”
Fuck this. Paddle out where you like, don’t drop in. Unless the guy is a cunt
I’ve never understood this… who the fuck wants someone’s old flip flops?
Someone who had theirs stolen by someone who had theirs stolen by someone who had theirs stolen by someone who forgot theirs in the car and didn’t want to burn their feet on the sand and asphalt.
The Domino Effect in action .
Nah mate, that’s the butterfly effect.
Chaos ! I could recite you the story of the very hungry caterpillar to give you the full beautiful butterfly effect ….
By light of the moon , a little egg lay on a leaf …..
Buried mine in Costa at 530 in the am, all sneaky like, just standing their looking at lineup, just walked away.. mapped behind a stone, etc.. they were gone, someone in the trees must have been watching me.. but in this case.. I feel like they should steal what ever they can off of me.
Had the exact same thing happen
Me too in El Salvador. Nobody was around. At least I didn’t think so.
sneaky fuckers were probably finishing their night and sitting it out in the woods.. I went and bought some chino shitbags that were not worth shower shoes
That’s Insane . It must be the CIA in El Salvador ?
https://youtu.be/CAgP6U71uYE
Ha Ha buried mine at Santa Teresa in the sand and they were gone in a couple hours. Pura Vida!
same..LOL 20 years ago… they liked them then too.
Good souls sharing soles …..
Can have my spot.
I paddled out once in 89 when it was 4′
( 4′ mainland, not 4′ Hawaiian)
I feel like there was something else surfing related that happened in 89 but I just can’t quite put my finger on it. Oh well. Over to you Joe.
You are just stirring the Pottz ….. ?
Ha! Banging a fucking drum more like.
If you were ever lucky enough to be in indo when Liam An his spawn were making cunts of themselves all over the place, you too would be happy to see them get dropped in on, snaked or even run over for the rest of their life. Fuck them all.
amen
Reminds me of when
I surfed Third Reef and Gerry
Um, no I didn’t
What about Conan the Barbarian and Gerry or McCabe and Gerry ?
This is good
I’m lost at how much simpler or politely the Hawaiians need to be to get the message across?
Look at it this way…the world is full of assholes and for the three months of the year the locals get surf they have try and share it with every asshole in the world who can afford a plane ticket.
And for the other 9 months they go and act like arseholes everywhere else.
I’m still confused as to why Liam couldn’t spell the word ‘London’ correctly.
I guess he was drunk when he filled out the birth certificate.
I guess your joking given how fucken stupid ur parents names are–
Cheech and Chong ?
Yup! That’s them!
I was gestated in the swirling amniotic fluid of bong water. Birthed out through the glowing heat of a chillum bowl ash, knocked out onto the ground to the bass riddim of the Pacific Ocean.
Begotten and not made , on the Bud Tour , and through him all things were made . Mahalo CB .
This tale would have been more believable had you finished with ‘brah’.
Perhaps if there was more traffic on the North Shore this bloke would have been slowed down a notch getting there?
Faaark! Between Haleiwa, the First test, BG and various faffing about I have successfully achieved sweet FA this fine day.
The joy of self employment!!
No issue with respect and order applied to any lineup.
Stripes however, should not be inherited, but earned only.
bingo, Liam has nothing to give away. What he earned is not transferable.
And the kid is calling out others because their dads didn’t give them keys to the car… pfffttttt….
https://youtu.be/iN-aXzpQUdw
perhaps Landon is half zebra.
I think what Garrett is saying is that he passed on all his knowledge to his son, who now took his place in the lineup. I don’t think young macnamara hasn’t earned his stripes.
“I spent three decades out there to earn my stripes and I’ve handed my stripes to my kids. Landon has my spot in the lineup”
This is everything that is wrong with localism in surfing (not talking about Landon personally but more about localism generally). Being second or third generation gives you a free pass. Meanwhile the people who are actually putting in the hours to get respect (like the “locals” always tell them to) are getting faded and snaked by some kid who knows daddy and his mates will play enforcer for him. Snapper/Kirra is the perfect example, but it’s a dynamic at work at most good surf spots.
I’m fucken over Hawaiians mate. They talk so much shit about the importance of respect in Hawaii and then come over here and surf like absolute cunts. I’m gonna kill one mate.
That Zeke guy seems like a real prick.
Worse than Parko.
They’re all pricks mate. Every single person who has touched a surfboard is a fucken cunt. Fuck the lot of yas.
Yikes!
I was watching this court show on Tele and the gear head was saying the break and enter tools he was caught with were for his airtasker business..
Locked up on priors.
Bodyboarders exempt!
“I’m a fuckin prick!
You’re a fuckin prick!
We’re all dee-doh-dee-dohs
All fuckin pricks”
Sung to that tune.
Whatever it’s called.
but the gringos have cool names, cause their daddy moved their in the 70’s or 2010’s.. (not talking about real Hawaii folk)
Yeah he paddled out one day at a spot in Ventura and not much aloha.
spot on Wiggolly. all talk. some of the worst travelers known.
Could Seabass be granted an exemption?
Thumbsss up!
“Hawaiians are de-facto locals anywhere there are tropical waves” -Lewis Samuels
start with that facebook guy.
I don’t condone the antics of any traveling prick surfer but I can’t help but laugh at this thought: maybe it’s payback for all the aggressive Ozzie (and other) surfers who flood our shores? Or maybe it’s like that ubiquitous drug awareness commercial in the U.S., where the young, crack smoking girl says: “I learned it from watching you Dad (ozzies)!” Besides, you prick Ozzies* wouldn’t even have surfing if it wasn’t for Hawaiians. *I love Australia’s penchant for using insults as terms of endearment. Joking aside, when I was in AU, everyone was really nice to me and my gf, but we can surf and are both very polite, and are obviously from Hawaii. It seemed like every AU surfer had a story to tell about Hawaii. I love those giant cabbage things stuffed with meat that you can get at the gas stations. Australia is an amazing country.
It’s all that and a chiko roll mate
-Pipe Stripe program details-
(McNamara family example)
Physical injuries points:
Broken femur: 4
Broken hip: 4
Broken hand: 1
Broken knee: 2
Reef scrape: .5 (X 20) = 50
Eardrum rupture: 3 (x4) =12
Torn ligament: 3
Conclusion: 2
Total (L Mac): 78
Near death hold downs: 5 (x8) = 40
Hassling outsiders: 3(x129)=387
Punched by higher striped local: – 2 (x 7) = -14
Drop in on striped local: -4 (x 37) =-148
Total (L Mac): 276
Total points towards stripes: 354
One stripe = 8 points
Liam McNamara stripes total as of 11/23/2019: 44.25
Stripe transfers to family members for Pipe/Backdoor and unlimited Off The Wall Legacy use:
No hassle status: 10 stripes
3 wave guarantee: add 5 stripes
Preferred wave status (lesser known but full stripe member yields all waves to legacy charger: add 5 stripes
“Mr Pipe” Status: (speak to your Da Hui or Wolfpak representative for stripe requirements and availability. Stripee MUST attend council of elders meeting to determine worthiness.
Haha, that took some thought
It takes years to figure out the heiarchy of a good lineup and then more years to earn a spot. If you’re weird and can’t surf, you’ll never get a spot. I think the article’s point is this: stay within your limits and don’t come to pipe unless you know what you’re doing.
He’s prob been surfing out there since he was 10. I assume dad means he passed his stripes down by showing him the ropes. This is fine.
Exactly. And thanks for calming my wave pool anxiety with your comment the other day.