A necessary investigation for our time.
I am, at once, a surfer and a family man and these are mutually exclusive. Surfers are selfish, by nature. Self-obsessed and edgy. Eggy. Family man necessitates selflessness, patience, kindness, benevolence, etc.
The two often thrash about and become entwined in my life. The surfer comes out on land, when a car drives by too fast when I’m walking my daughter to school and I kick its rear fender as hard as I can then chase it down until the driver opens the door at which point I press him, by the neck, against his death machine, screaming, “DON’T PADDLE ON ME!” while my daughter cries on the sidewalk.
The family man comes out in the water, when a gorgeous nugget is coming to me, straight to me, but I’ve been watching a gentle child struggle all day and now he is on the corner and now his head is down paddling with all his gentle might.
“Go!” I yell. “Go, go, go!”
It’s a rough business, trying to keep them separate, though I mostly do, but my beautiful wife is perpetually trying to destroy the fragile détente.
She has been asking, for years, to go on surf trip. She is a shredder. Once a professional snowboarder, now a grumpy local having cut her teeth in Westport, Washington, coming of age in bucolic Cardiff-by-the-Sea.
“You’re a surf journalist…” she tells me through tears. “Can you please take us on a surf trip? I need warm water and waves…” motioning to my daughter who has her hands folded as if in prayer.
And while she has taken us on snowboard trips to Wyoming, Colorado, Switzerland, France, Japan, Squaw Valley, etc. I respond, “No.”
A family surf trip equals misery in the water, particularly with a surfing spouse, wondering if he or she is getting anxious, and misery on land, playing Marco Polo in a swimming pool when, somewhere, waves are firing.
No.
The family surf trip is impossible. It is not a thing that exists or a thing that should exist. The devil’s most insidious contradiction.
But, late one night after too many vodka sodas, tired and worn down, I sighed, “Show me where you want to go.” The time is now, I suppose, as my surf journalism is quickly evolving into some new, grand mutation, possibly a modern Buddha or maybe Gandhi, and I don’t know if modern Buddhas go on many surf trips.
Gandhis definitely don’t.
Hours later she sent me an email link to Rancho Santana in Nicaragua.
I was intrigued as I’ve only ever heard glorious tales of the country from my uncle who was very good friends with… someone etched into Central American history (find out who here!) and spent time crawling around its jungles both before and after vacations to Afghanistan.
Rancho Santana looked ideal. Elegant yet folding into the verdant landscape perfectly. Pristinely white with red tiled roofs. A huge piece of property featuring a left point and beachbreak wedge out the front. A short hop to famed Colorados and Panga Drops just around the corner.
“But will it work?” I wondered. “Can a family surf trip actually work?”
More as the story develops.
No the essence of a surf trip is going with the flow. Having a family requires planning. The true surf trip cannot be achieved unless your family are all rippers. Sorry not sorry
Or how about we can go to the Maldives and take over Pasta Point for a private sesh.
yeah man, let me know.
Shoots, bruddah. See you den, li’dat.
Finishing up a family trip with sig. other surfing as well. Went to a more unknown beach in CR for quantity over quality but good spots in 15 drive distance – negra. Both scored and the pup swam in the whitewash. Both personalities coexisted in harmony for two weeks.
Miss ya bro… you went silent for awhile…. speaking of which, Oahu ?, I go to NZ every year for a few weeks, right after Waitangi day. Nearly 30 years running, so excited as always, but this year we have a wrinkle in the plan.
On the way home, i’m flying to Hawaii, I’ll be staying at Alligators, maybe 3, 4 days max until our flight for the Marshall’s. Gonna check out Martin Daly’s new camp for a week and we have to fly out of Honolulu. Might hang around again on the way home for a few days if I have any boards left. Told the Mrs I’d be gone for March which is cool with her because she’s hosting a teacher training anyway. Win/win.
We should hook up for a dinner and a surf.
Trying this in March…
Nosara, another family w/ kids, 2 mothers-in-law.
Pretty good setup. We’ll see…
There is no such thing as a “Family Surf Trip”. Only a vacation that you get to surf once per day if you are lucky. Probably at 6am while everyone is still asleep. Unless you bring another family along too. Then the wives and kids can hang while you and the other dad surf. I have pulled that off successfully many times
Yup. Daddies who sleep in on holidays don’t get any waves on family trips.
Lemoore GR…. why do conservatives always need to divide?
Wouldn’t it be more fun to be united? Why Lemoore?
No Matter where you are in the world , u gotta leave that house at 5am, before anyone wakes up, or you’ll never leave …..
You still coming to Oz?
so you go on vacations with your family. Me too.. but i surf trip by myself or with 1 bud. If there are waves nearby, I can’t be home for dinner.. the wife understands thank god
Chas? Is that short for Charles? Why such a hater? Why so intolerant? I couldn’t read beyond your opening caption. Hating a picture because some “family members are going right on a barreling left”. Ever cross your mind that they can be goofy foot? Are you even a surfer, “Chas”? I doubt it.
Dear Mickey… I hate to be a stickler here but the mother, or I assume she is the mother, is clearly setting her rail to go right. Now, maybe to your point she is preparing to backdoor the peak but it seems a bold move. Possibly too bold.
Throw em a bone Chas.
One family surf trip surely banks at least 4 boys only trips.
Those of us “fuck all these polarised political ideologies” types can drift around on homemade rafts
Swashbuckler !
Surf vacations will amplify whatever issues you have 10 fold. My VAL pal thought it’d be fun to have a wife that surfed. This guy is beyond miserable. It’s sad, she’s sad, he’s mad. A couple a sad VAL’s.
fuck I just looked, expires next month. Thanks LGR
Diabolically brilliant!
Surf pools might solve this problem forever. I’m already too financially strained and busy to do spur of the moment surf trips anymore, but a trip to Melbourne once or twice a year is a no brainer. Get the groms a surf lesson and an icecream while the wife sunbathes, and I get a couple of hours to surf. No daily arguments because I surfed for too long or I drove the whole family to the other side of the island and then wanted to go straight back where we came from because the wind was wrong. Of course it’ll never be the same a two weeks on a boat in Indo but most of us with kids would take the compromise any day of the week, given that the alternative is probably a week of theme parks or some shit like that.
Sunbathing and stoke in Melbourne.
Whodathunkit!!
Mediterranean Melbourne …….