Opinion: In accordance with new motto “An
Abundance of Caution,” World Surf League must declare Nat Young
2020 champion!
By Chas Smith
Break out the celebratory methamphetamine!
Let’s just take for granted that the Coronavirus
Pandemic of 2019 has thrown the entire world off its axis,
and along with it, our World Surf League. Let’s just assume there
will be no 2020 World Tour. Let’s just factor there may be a few
events but no “series.”
No “league.”
Except every year needs a champion and this year belongs to Nat
Young.
And Nat Young, longtime professional surfer, Santa Cruz local,
blonde, snagged a precious top ten finish in the last professional
surfing event of the calendar year likely, in Australia’s Sydney
Surf Pro and might currently lead the World Qualifying Series.
Either him or Australia’s Matt Banting.
I can’t tell.
Who can?
Whichever the case, we need a champion and give me a coherent
reason why Nat Young ain’t it.
Sure, there will be discussions and asterisks. Certainly there
always are in pandemic shortened years.
Nat Young as 2020 champion.
Or Matt Banting.
Either/Or.
Nat Young.
But who in 2021?
I’m jet lagged and can’t do math.
Or think.
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Watch: Flaunting calls to distance,
socially, Killer Whale and baby Grey Whale engage in passionate
“French Kiss!”
By Chas Smith
Love in the time of Coronavirus.
And has French kissing ever been a more dangerous
display of affection than it is right now, in this
historical moment, when France is the new epicenter of our world’s
Coronavirus pandemic and the disease is spread, mostly, through
human mouth/nose contact?
Oh the dance of tongues is as forbidden as taking two child
brides is everywhere outside of Utah.
Frowned upon.
Deadly.
But, thankfully, we have nature to tamp down our sheer panic and
pull us, once again, toward the right path for you remember your
first French kiss don’t you? Such a coming of age moment. So
necessary for human development and watch here as a Killer Whale
and baby Grey Whale remind us of the pure passion, the pure
glorious passion.
https://www.instagram.com/p/B8hP6HXJa-T/
The Killer Whale appears to twist its head round and round,
taking the baby Grey Whale’s tongue and filling the water with the
color of love.
The color of sweet romance.
Back to your first French kiss, though. Do you remember where
and with whom?
Mine was in Coos Bay’s Egyptian Theater with a high school
sophomore named Candy Gram.
Truly.
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Humbled surfer-father and young daughter
declared “Enemies of the State” upon return to USA, forced into
“Internment Camp!”
By Chas Smith
"Avoid contact with others."
“This could get very ugly. Extremely brutal
with much wailing, gnashing of teeth and other wanton displays of
grief.” I tell my young daughter as the stewardesses aboard Delta
flight 119 with direct service from Charles de Gaulle to Los
Angeles International deliver the “welcome Bellinis.” Peach puree
for the children. It’s a nice touch, bringing some upper class to
the petit
bourgeois here in the back, and why Delta is
now the number one US carrier, leapfrogging both United and
American this past year.
“…there are reports of six to eight hour waits in the airports
back home while medical folk scramble to take temperatures and give
comprehensive interviews to those returning from the Schengen,
which hasn’t been this dangerous since 1944.” I continue, after we
toast. “It’s all very poorly designed at chaotic and could be
grotesque. Endless serpentine shuffling with the sleepless, jet
lagged, face mask’d hordes. Do you care?”
She takes a sip and shrugs.
This whole adventure to shred Europe’s Coronavirus Zombie
Apocalypse has truly turned her into a little Arab, an honest
practitioner of the “Inshallah Life.”
If God Wills.
There is nothing we can do to change this arc so we might as
well sit back and laugh when and where we can, shrug when and where
we can’t.
Her mother, on the other hand, has the unique ability to
bend fate to her
liking. She is why we’re drinking Bellinis while
hurtling toward Los Angeles instead of on our way to a Caribbean
prison island. Why I’m not weaving palm frond hats for us both.
And who knows what happens next? Paris went into complete
lockdown two hours after our final steak frites. President
Macron, furious with the French for continuing to live their lives
in pink, closed all restaurants, bars, cinemas. Mimes forbidden
from miming. Le Tower Eiffel darkened. Chanel, Dior, Hermès boarded
up as if preparing for a hurricane.
Germany shut its land borders for the first time since World War
II.
New reported cases, and the death toll, continue to rise as
Europe is now Coronavirus “ground zero’ but this madness is coming
to the United States next once people actually start getting
tested. Cases will leap from the hundreds to the thousands
overnight threatening to take the stock market all the way to
zero.
Wild, crazy days ahead.
We watch Happy Death Day together and 10
Things I Hate About You before she pivots to Blue
Crush and I move over to Once Upon a Time in
Hollywood. I had seen it in the theater upon return from Paris
last time and had slept through the entire thing.
It’s a fine film, worthy of all the praise but I’d find myself
glancing over at Blue Crush often, forgetting that Noah
Johnson surfed for Kate Bosworth in every single scene and become
mesmerized by the grotesque oddity of big man legs paired with the
most petite face.
And then we are circling LAX. The stewards and stewardesses, as
confused as anyone, had delivered hastily printed “United States
Traveler Health Declaration” forms but had no idea what anyone was
supposed to do with them. Midway when the plane was over Nevada
they had announced, over the intercom, that health officials would
be boarding the plane, conducting interviews and tests and everyone
should stay in their seats.
This news is reconfirmed as we wait to land, circling. I get a
taste of the hardships those cruise passengers had to endure. The
ones floating at sea with no port willing to take them and am
forced to order one more vodka soda and watch the introduction to
Bethany Hamilton’s Unstoppable.
A surf journalist to the very end also unstoppable.
After a few minutes we are given permission to land. Everything
normal except for people actually staying in their seats once the
airplane reaches the gate. Another announcement is made, this one
stating we will all be getting off instead.
“Time for travel nightmare hell.” I tell my young daughter.
She shrugs.
We walk off, down the corridors into a custom’s hall so
overstaffed with medical personnel in face masks and officers that
it takes all of ten minutes to reach the street outside. An LAX
customs record. The medical personnel welcomed us warmly, asked if
we had symptoms, took our temperatures, (young daughter 97.8,
surfer-father 98.1) and gave us a card that read:
You have traveled to a country with an outbreak of COVID-19
and are at higher risk. Stay home for the next 14 days and monitor
your health. Take your temperature with a thermometer two times a
day and watch for symptoms.
We are now officially enemies of the state, forced into the
internment camp of our home but I’ll obey the rules as I’ve already
infuriated enough people with my “ruthlessly cavalier” attitude
toward a pandemic. Heedlessly dragging my young daughter along for
misguided kicks. My mother-in-law let it be known she is “extremely
angry.”
Well, how does this damned Coronavirus spread? By having other
people cough in your mouth or touching faces with Coronavirus
tainted hands. Through other people. My young daughter and I
paddled out into a virtually empty European lineup, two of very few
at every fabulous restaurant. With only slightly more at churches,
zoos, parks and palaces. Many feet apart from all.
It was an unbelievably surreal experience, something I am so
beyond happy to have shared with a person who will grow into this
crazy world and have to choose her own way to approach the next
apocalypse, whatever and whenever. To play in these margins
together. To dance down the Seine by night, dance through the
Tiergarten by day and toast Bellinis at the end.
She amazed me in every single moment, always looking for the
adventure, always one step ahead and I am humbled.
Humbled in the same way marquee athletes are “humbled” by
smashing their competition with a dazzling show of unique skill and
bravado seeing as she’s my own flesh and blood.
That li’l champion is, without doubt, going places.
In fourteen days.
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New Zealand company enters sea machine
race; promises twelve-foot waves: “We’ve cracked the code and can
provide bigger waves than any other man made wave on the
planet!”
By Derek Rielly
The Sea Machine arms race continues…
Before a mysterious virus climbed out of the ooze of a
multi-species Chinese slaughteryard, there was a wavepool
race going on.
A reminder.
Wavegarden leads, currently, with its proven commercial
viability and American Wave Machines (Waco, Jersey super mall) is
in second place. The WSL’s yet-to-build-a-second-tank KS pool is a
distant third along with old-new entrant, Tom Lochtefeld,
whose Surf Loch is going
to be used as part of a member-only retreat at a remote site just
west of Sydney and as the tech behind the new
Magnusson-Robb pool in Palm Springs.
Forty-nine-year-old New Zealand entrepreneur Josh Nepia, the
owner of Surf
Mountain, an off-road track for scooter riders in
Auckland, says local technology is able to create waves “up to
twelve-feet high”.
He wants to build a park called SwellPlanet and has
already lodged a building consent application for the
fifteen-million dollar construction.
Meanwhile, Surf Lakes, the pool tech that features a giant
plunger which failed spectacularly during a test run at its
full-sized testing facility, has promised to break dirt on a Gold
Coast tank with eight separate waves and permanent offshore winds
sometime in the next “nine to twelve months”.
Just in: Surfing Icon’s devastating act of
kindness in face of coronavirus pandemic!
By Derek Rielly
As panic sets in to a world under siege by
invisible bug, one surfer stands tall…
I doubt, by now, if I have to press upon you the bona
fides of surf historian Matt Warshaw, a former surfer who
is currently confined at home in Seattle, Washington.
A peerless writer, researcher, thinker, owner of
The Encyclopedia of Surfing, the
very thread, no, the single thread, that holds surf
culture together in the face of the WSL’s VAL onslaught.
On matters concerning the sport’s atrophying culture, there is
no one else to turn to.
If you’ve yet to drink from his fountain, dip into,
In today’s weekly EOS mail-out, where his subscribers are
treated to one thousand seamless words on whatever topics Warshaw
has been into that week and in the face of the Coronavirus
pandemic, he writes,
In exchange for you guys cutting me some slack, I make this
offer: if anybody out there in EOS-land takes enough of a hit
during the impending economic plunge that your subscription becomes
a burden, let me know and I’ll pick up the cost until things get
better.
I will continue to pull frivolity from our viral pandemic,
in keeping with a whistle-past-the-graveyard response that,
surprise surprise, is already the default setting for surfers and
memers alike. On the other hand, there is no whistling away the
fact that COVID-19 has literally hit home in Seattle. Schools
closed here last week, meaning that in addition to being CEO
of the world’s leading nonprofit surf history and cultural
preservation website, I’m now a full-time stay-at-home
Dad. Expect more typos and misplaced, commas, in other
words.
In exchange for you guys cutting me some slack, I make this
offer: if anybody out there in EOS-land takes enough of a hit
during the impending economic plunge that your subscription becomes
a burden, let me know and I’ll pick up the cost until things get
better.
Social distancing means we are all going to have more time
alone with our computers and phones. Between refreshing CNN Live
Updates and watching our stock portfolios contract like a hot
panful of Shrinky Dinks, we might as well kill time together
on EOS. So hit me up. You guys rallied and kept EOS going when we
were on the brink. I’m glad to carry anyone who needs it from now
till vaccine day.
And to go out on a high note, remember that surfing, in
these tense and unsettled times, is practically a life-saving act.
Barring some kind of open-mouth collision with another surfer,
riding waves is the safest thing this side of trail running through
the Falklands. In other words, we just became half as selfish
and twice as righteous.
No one quite like Matt Warshaw is there?
Put him in a shimmering white silk micro dress and a blue-black
wig that hangs to his shoulders and jam his size ten feet into
white square-toed pump with rhinestone buckle and I’d marry the
bastard.