A blaze of triumph in Chicago…
I quickly wax my board, feeling a combination of self-loathing and grudging acceptance.
I tie my boardshorts, throw on a cotton shirt (it’s not cause Dane wears them, it’s cause I prefer stepping on the bottom of my shirt mid popup) and do my best to look like I belong.
Strange how I now feel more self-conscious “surfing” in middle America than I did paddling out at spots in Northern California I had no business being at.
Michiganders gawk, chuckling at the small man walking through a Lake Michigan parking lot with a surfboard tucked under his arm.
I am acutely aware of the caricature I am.
“Surf’s up, man.”
Not sure if he’s making fun of me. Probably.
I stare at the lake.
Last time I was here it was a jumble of frozen blocks of ice. Now, I might consider it an actual beach, as long as I ignore the reddish brown water.
Surf is pumping. A jumbled mess of white caps, four foot at five seconds. I ponder to myself if it’s really worth the hepatitis.
We aren’t far from Chicago.
I throw my leash on, hyper aware of the judgmental, mid-western eyes.
The paddle out isn’t bad.
It’s probably because I can walk out the lineup, or the fact that the waves are gutless. I bob in the lineup, trying to ascertain if the waves breaking fifty yards outside of me are rideable.
My thoughts are quickly interrupted by frantic whistles.
I look back.
On shore, a pre-pubescent lifeguard frantically signals for me to come in.
His friend sits atop an ATV – an apparent necessity to cover the fifty yards of beach.
“I just can’t let you go out here. We just can’t. But, if you walk, like, one hundred yards north, I can’t tell you what to do.”
He glances at me, unsure if I understand his hint.
As I trudge north, I hear him say, “Seriously, be careful out there man.”
I feel like Bodhi paddling out one last time.
I repeat my paddle out, gleeful when a single wave breaks in front of me and I’m forced to duckdive.
I’m joined by a middle-aged, balding man wearing a nineties-era O’Neill electric blue and yellow rash guard. I’m pretty sure he’s not wearing to appear ironic or retro.
He flashes me a pair of vertical shakas, the thumbs pointed to the sky, a smile plastered on his face with a look that says, “Can you believe this?”
I like my new friend. He’s riding a five-o Beater-like a boogie board. I respect it.
And even though he will inevitably be staring up at me when I stroke into the only set of the day, a waist-high burger, I can’t fault him.
There’s a whole lot less kooks here than Southern California right now.
I’m greeted by childish screams every time I lumber to my feet. There’s a family splashing in the waves on the inside and I’m relatively sure I’m the first person they’ve ever seen stand up on a surfboard.
Though my rides consist of a pop-up to a not so graceful kick out, that’s all the waves offer, I feel as though I’m ripping.
These people have no idea what good surfing looks like (a stark reminder Elo – the WSL doesn’t, and won’t, garner watches in Michigan).
Might as well enjoy the one instance when I am the best surfer in the water.
An hour or so later, I leave the water feeling more disappointed than satiated.
I wonder if this is what Lemoore feels like? A long drive back through rural America, no coastline in sight, no feeling of dried salt on my skin.
Even so, as soon as I’m home I check the NOAA wind reports for next week. Maybe next time I’ll find a salty local to scream at me in the lineup.
Or when I ask the boy at the surf shop counter for a bar of wax, he won’t look at me as if I’m not speaking English.
Or, who knows, it could be five foot at four seconds.
(probably the same rush)Thanks!
VONR…..Been over in the sand box for a little extra cheddar. Gotten spit out lately??
He just described 90% of your surf sessions. Most of u share a lot with this guy
A cursory look at the map shows Chicago too protected and the good surf just over the Indiana Border, a VERY short drive away. We scored there, and I mean scored, grinders on a real bar formed by the GIANT Dunes at the Dunes National Seashore and its convenient parking … to dis Lake Michigan in 2020 like some novelty or tidal bore or something is a pretty weak play … Red Bull says so too https://youtu.be/6sMWoG0llYo
Astute.
Rumor has it Lemoore feels like a mini cooper with flat tires, missing 2 spark plugs, and with the emergency brake permanently engaged.
Would Eddie go?
You don’t have to be a surfer to write for BeachGrit.
Come on, man, you didn’t need to bring Warshaw into this like that…
Yea – well a 5 sec period can humble any cunt.
It’s never handsome.
Not a hell of a lot more I can say about that.
Photos??