Mythopoetically rhapsodization!
We met author Tom Vanderbilt exactly one week ago, or close to it anyhow, when I stumbled across his new book titled, “Beginners: The Joy and Transformative Power of Lifelong Learning.” A VAL manifesto if there ever was one. Vanderbilt purposed to pursue a year of learning purely for the sake of learning, “tackling five main skills (and picks up a few more along the way), choosing them for their difficulty to master and their distinct lack of career marketability–chess, singing, surfing, drawing, and juggling.”
I couldn’t find much about the surfing but became very frustrated that he considered it to have “a distinct lack of career marketability.”
So frustrated that I felt it served him right if he had been stung by a scorpion on his Costa Rican surf holiday.
Now I feel bad.
An excerpt from the surfing chapter of Vanderbilt’s book appeared in Outside magazine, yesterday, and let’s read together.
I don’t think I saw a surfer in person until I was in my late twenties, on a magazine assignment in Orange County, California, to interview the noted surfer and shaper Donald Takayama—a task that was definitely over my head. After spending the morning with him in his shaping bay, I watched a crowd of kids on shortboards buzzing like agitated water striders around the encrusted pilings of the pier at Huntington Beach.
Over the next few decades, I maintained a kind of low-grade secret crush on surfing, the sort I once had on an older woman who worked at a hip coffee shop in my college town. Like her, surfing seemed wrapped in mystique, perhaps slightly dangerous, and ultimately unattainable.
The pursuit doesn’t exactly hang out a big “Beginners Welcome” sign. At insider websites like Beach Grit, vulnerable adult learners, particularly those mythopoetically rhapsodizing about the life-changing joy of waves they first rode the week before, are mercilessly mocked. Surfers, the Australian pro Barton Lynch once observed, are “more cocky and judgmental than any group of people in the world.” Even if you barely paid attention to surfing, you’d no doubt heard about angry locals, always men, threatening kooks at coveted breaks. The bar to entry, on various levels, seemed high.
Insider websites like li’l old us mercilessly mocking those mythopoetically rhapsodizing about the life-changing joys of waves they rode the week before?
He gets us. He really gets us.
Swing into the comments, Tom, and have some fun!
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Local girl has a point.
At Pipeline people regularly endanger others in ways that if you did it on land, you’d get arrested for reckless endangerment.
Put on fins and a mask and swim around at Pipe when it’s six feet on the inner reef.
It is SOOOOO dangerous.
Well, I’ll be extra thankful for not having fish included. I got the filet mignon, top sirloin, lobster, brisket burgers, and kielbasa.
To coin a famous Tomson strap line “if you don’t surf…………….
Shouldn’t you be storming a council depot building somewhere?
Reminded me of having to read Charles Sellers and never being able to successfully read either “antinomianism” or “arminianism” correctly.
There’s nothing worse than a VAL mythopoetical rhapsodiser
Or a Coffey Coughy Cuddle with pink bits , gaping pits and sopping tits …precautions you be taking bex , tying you legs to the end of the bed ……and wearing a mask while skulling a flask .
The Californians… a poetically life.
Is Dewy Decimal related to Dewy Webber …? ..it’s a system I am working on
Fuck that Bexy, this isn’t a Slater nose rub. It’s a Johnny Boy Gomes point at the beach while the spit tickles your neck, full claim moment!
Age shall not weary them ,
Nor the years condemn ?
I am only being cheeky but at least when there was a military coup in those places the CIA usually made sure there was enough US personnel on the ground to control the situation unlike today’s slightly understaffed security effort ?
If Vanders thinks he can throw two descriptive words together like “mythopoetically rhapsodizing” and not get sweetly burned here.. he didn’t read the room too well..
I stand by my statement last week. Fuck Vanderbilt, but also thanks for putting BG above all other surf board riding insider websites.
Bex I see you woke up. That’s too bad.
I’m still a kook.
Just an old and grumpy one.
There’s some cold, burnt coffee over there in the corner. Take a seat wherever you want. And welcome.
Delighted, thanks.
CB …. You are our beloved old and grumpy one .
Happy to serve.
It’s an exclusive club CB.
(secret high-shaka)
People like that have real problems to deal with, like trying to steal some steaks from the supermarket or a mountain bike to get their next fix. No time for protesting. Look at who got shot by AR-15 kid in Kenosha. Two white people.
Mmm…Steaks. Best present I got this year were a couple delivered boxes from Omaha Steaks. Yew weeee, the brisket burgers were phenomenal. Chicken fried steak tonight. Just made the country gravy for it.
Yep, just the dumb white uneducated people of European descent were willing to go to the rally. Trumps base. BLM’s are drinking Starbucks lattes at home eating avocado on toast and watching TV,
You forgot the opening sentence; I never thought it could happen to me…
And we came at the same time like Star crossed lovers
Not as badly as the Romans by Monty Python.
https://www.youtube.com/wat…
We already are, there are no white people that do housework, gardening, cashier jobs etc where I live. Any control of who lives and works here was gone years ago. Rich people love it. They have their properties taken care of by undocumented workers that have no rights if they get hurt or sick.
Or arrested…