"It’s incredible what the mind and spirit can do. This was the heaviest situation I’ve ever been in. I’ve never nearly died like that."
Y’know the story.
Two weeks ago the terrifically handsome Tom Lowe, whose face no longer has that youthful velvety smoothness after so many tropical seasons although his beauty is untouched and his body is perfect, got pitched on the takeoff of a Teahupoo wave busting six ribs and puncturing a lung in the collision with the notorious reef.
How bad was it?
Jamie Mitchell, an Australian big-wave surfer who ain’t scared of a few catastrophic wipeouts himself, see here, and here, here, and yeah here, asked the twenty-nine-year-old Brit what it’s like to feel the fist of God on your head.
“I went and sat on the shoulder to wait for my wave,” says Tom. “One of the bigger waves of the day popped up, the channel went all blue. By no means do I have much experience out there, but I turned and went late. I jumped [from the lip], but I wouldn’t even say it was an awkward jump. I’ve jumped like that a million times. When I hit the water, I put my hands over my head, and was ready to get sucked over. I was on autopilot. I’ve done that a million times in a million waves.
But as soon as I went up and over, I knew I was gonna hit [the reef]. It hit so hard on my side, that I knew it was gonna be bad. When I came up, I couldn’t breathe. I had this big cut going on. My shoulder, elbow, ribs…I was all broke up. I couldn’t shout or wave. My shoulder was broken, too. All I could do was use my other arm to keep my head above water.
“In my mind, I was like ‘I will make it; I will make it to the beach. I need medical help.’ It was the most pain I’ve ever felt. It’s incredible what the mind and spirit can do when you know you’re fucked.
“This was the heaviest situation I’ve ever been in by far. I’ve never nearly died like that, not to that level. This was as real as it’s ever been.”
Wanna know what the wipeout looked from the water? It’s a real cock fight, as they say.
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How’s Malia Jones lookin these days LGR?
Made a pig dogs ear of that take off. Or did he think he was in Acapulco.
Surfing. Such a selfless activity.
“done it a million times” english pro big wave surfer summed up right there
I can understand and appreciate why pip refuses point blank to catch a wave there.
It’s the next level
GMW Sybdey Narrabeen is on with lady surfers…ripping…also the tide…brutal~
Cunt should have lit a fart, he has feck all else propulsion.
that video has been deleted…except here
He should have made the drop is what he should have done. Brit had his board all sideways on the take off. That thing was fully makeable and he knows it.
https://uploads.disquscdn.c…
Always watching reruns
Chas and Dez are the kings of the re-run.
You’re dating yourself!
What is it with Poms and tunnels
This calls for another joke:
My misses told me to treat her like a princess,
So I put her in the back of my car and crashed it into a tunnel.
haha fucken hell!
on that note:
Harry and Meghan are naming their daughter Seatbelt.
It’s what Harry’s Mum would have wanted
Our Di. She really was born fuck out of luck huh? I remember the night of her Funeral being on a big night out with some crew.. The girls in the clubs were… sparse, and sombre. Sad night.
Yeah I remember when it happened, she was all over the radio,…..,
the dash and the radiator
Musta been a tiny tunnel
aka Lemoore tunnel…starts wide & narrows out down the line. rinse & repeat. a two day tour! then, the weather started getting rough…the tunnel filled with water. jet boat rescues as far as the solar power would take them. power lost. no more pumping waves…Lake Kelly
a three hour tour…where’s the boat?
D.I.A.N.A
Died In A Nasty Accident.