Surf hero. Photo: New Jersey channel 12
Surf hero. Photo: New Jersey channel 12

New Jersey surfer saves baby deer from drowning thereby etching name alongside Eddie Aikau, Ryan Hargrave in the “Annals of Surf Heroics!”

Surf hero gonna surf hero.

Yes, surfers are often curmudgeonly, territorial, grumpy, grouchy, “the worst,” to quote the beloved radio personality Scott Bass, but we can be heroes, at least just for one day. But how many tales of “surfer saves life” have you read even only here on BeachGrit? Hundreds? Thousands? More?

More, I’d venture a guess.

Stories of surfers saving those suffering heart attack, in the water, or those lacerating themselves with fin or those bitten by shark or those who got swept away in a rip current or those who crashed boat… the list is endless but today we have a surfer going above and beyond in order to save a li’l baby deer from drowning.

But let us meet Thomas Buckley, a surf hero from New Jersey, and let us listen to his tale of derring-do.

“I didn’t even planning on going surfing. But as soon as I got up around 6:30 a.m. told myself, ‘Well, you’re going surfing today,’” the handsome younger man shared with New Jersey channel 12.

So there he was going surfing, when he heard a concerned bystander yell “Deer!”

Heroic blood pumping through a heroic heart, Buckley paddled into action.

He understood, instantly, that the adorable piece of sweet meat must have gotten washed off the jetty. He could see that it was struggling, blowing water out of its button nose, and so without a thought for himself, Buckley guided it to the sand where it pranced off to join its mother, probably.

Day saved.

His friends, when the saw the reports of unmitigated heroism, were not surprised, sharing that he is always on the scene and never afraid.

Surf hero gonna surf hero.

Logan gone wild. Photo: People™
Logan gone wild. Photo: People™

Disgraced former World Surf League CEO Erik Logan spotted at John John Florence meet & greet muttering cryptic obscenities!

"I don't need that _____."

The saga of Erik Logan has taken more twists, more turns in the past few months than even the most avid surf industry watcher could have imagined. The World Surf League CEO was, on June 23, 2023, riding a wave of success.* A regional Australian ladder company had re-signed for yet another year of sponsorship and bushes planted on the bluffs overlooking Bells Beach had saved the environment.

The momentum of professional surfing, real.

Then, like that, he was gone.

Logan had traveled to Brazil for the Vivo Rio Pro, sharing behind-the-scenes peeks on his much-loved Instagram. Rubbing shoulders with Joe Turpel and silly goosing it up, one moment, beheaded the next.

With zero warning, surf fans woke up to the most terse line in corporate history from the World Surf League.

“Erik Logan is no longer with the company.”

His replacement CEOs, the Chief of Legal and Chief of PR, gave the distinct impression that Logan had made a “boo boo,” which was, more or less, confirmed.

Logan himself, however, had vanished.

Until last night.

For last night, the great John John Florence rolled into Logan’s hometown of Manhattan Beach for a meet & greet wherein he would “hang & talk story.”

And Logan was there.

An eagle-eye’d People™ spotted the Oklahoman with a magical wetsuit of armor milling about, smile on face, mostly talking story with Florence’s wife, overhearing him mutter, “I don’t need that shit,” at one point.

Don’t need that shit?

What shit?

The plot very much thickens.

More as the story develops.

Surfing contest organiser slammed as “bigoted” and “transphobic’ after including only two divisions, “natural born women and natural men”

"Any company/individual that does not condemn this event is condoning the perpetuation of bigotry and hate."

A much-loved longboard contest in Mexico, which offers equal prize-money for men and women, has come under fire after including the rule, “There are only two divisions: natural born women and natural men.”

The Mexi Log Fest, which is held every year at La Saladita, Mexico, a pretty little joint on Guerrero’s Pacific coast, is “a celebration of culture, creative expression, connection, and some of the finest logging you’ll see anywhere in the world.”

But, hoo, y’just don’t say “natural women, natural women” in 2023.

A few years ago, y’might’ve gotten away with your gender binary bullshit, pretending there’s an arbitrary line that divides the species, almost as if you could determine sex just by looking at the human body, angle of pelvis, reproductive machinery, muscle density and so on, but no longer.

Those dark days are over.

And, so, after a post appeared with the rules, contest organiser Izzy Preciado was slammed, first, by Fringe Surfers New England, and quickly followed by Surf Equity, whom you’ve read about here, here, here, here and here. 

Both using the sweet patois of the militant left.

Sponsors were also encouraged to pull out of the event.

“Any company/individual that does not condemn this event is condoning the perpetuation of bigotry and hate.”

Shortly after the fusillade, the post was edited to remove the offensive language.

A victory for human rights, yes?

Great White shark stalks San Diego swimmer in latest shock drone video as Marin County shuts down following fatal hit by White!

“I can typically find a Great White within two minutes…”

Two days ago, a swimmer was disappeared by a Great White while swimming off the southern end of Port Reyes in Marin County, thirty miles from dirty ol San Francisco in Northern California.

The man, who was fifty-two, was swimming in group of three between twenty-five and fifty yards from the beach when the shark attacked and dragged him under.

First responders said the ocean was red with blood.

“It’s pretty unusual…when swimmer is attacked and just completely disappears,” Dave Elbert, the director of San Jose State’s Pacific Shark Research Center told CBS News. “From predator standpoint it’s a good hunting time. You have young, inexperienced elephant seals and sea lions going in the water.”

Attacks by Whites ain’t new or a rarity in northern California.

Shaper Ben Kelly’s death by White a few years back still hits hard. They don’t call Marin County to Monterey County the Red Triangle for nothing, although as the writer Lewis Samuels once told me, he believed Nor-Cal Whites were less prone to fatal hits than the Australian and South African versions.

Lew, y’see, has five pals who’ve been attacked by great white sharks. One, Royce Fraley, has been attacked… twice. Lew was there for one of ’em.

“We were really far out to sea, literally, about a kilometre out to sea. It took 45 minutes to paddle out,” says Lew. “Out of the corner of my eye there was this explosion. And as I turned around, I saw the shark breeching out of the water with him in its mouth. Then they fell down in an explosion of whitewater, like when a whale breaches. Fifteen feet is as big as a car and they’re a lot fatter in person than you’d think they would be. And he was in the fish’s mouth and there was this fucking impact in the water and then there was nothing there, gone, like a fucking whirlpool of displaced whitewater where he’d been. There was no one else near him, just another friend way up the line, and so when the attack happened, what are you fucking going to do? You’re not going to leave your friend out there.”

(And don’t miss the subsequent Blood Feud between Lew and Royce here.)

Meanwhile, a few hundred miles south, swimmers, paddle-boarders and surfers are co-existing with the renowned man-eaters, although in this part of the world they seem anything but, the 2008 hit on a triathlete in Solana Beach notwithstanding.

If you swing over to the remarkable account of Scott Fairchild, you’ll find a San Diego swimmer being followed by a smallish, a relative term of course, juvenile Great White who eventually tires of the game and shoots off.

It’s one of dozens of peaceful interactions with a fish that, in southern California, seems mostly docile.

“It’s important that people realise the truth and that we protect these amazing and vital animals,” Fairchild told Oceangraphic. “I’m very direct with saying that my images are not allowed to be used unless it’s a shark positive piece…I have literally filmed hundreds of hours of footage and watched an incalculable number of encounters with great white sharks swimming right next to swimmers, surfers, stand up paddlers, and so on. This is the truth, the norm, the day-to-day reality of what happens in the ocean. Yes, bites tragically do happen but they are incredibly rare considering the hundreds of thousands of interactions around the world and the millions of possibilities if sharks really wanted to hunt humans.”

He also said, “I can typically find a Great White within two minutes…”

Oddly enough, I find Fairchild’s account wildly reassuring, a reminder that only in the rarest instance would a Great White consider me a sweetmeat.

Others might feel the opposite.

Where doth you sit?


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Ain't no life here, no matter how much professional surfers give. Photo: Pet Cemetery.
Ain't no life here, no matter how much professional surfers give. Photo: Pet Cemetery.

“Horror before Halloween” after revelation World Surf League will share space with animal urgent care facility in new South Bay office!

Welcome to the pet cemetery.

Surf fans, earlier, were bracing for a civil war between fans of the World Surf League and its former Chief Executive Erik Logan after news leaked that the former was moving to the latter’s backyard after putting its spacious Santa Monica offices up for sale signaling financial weakness and sorrow.

The South Bay.

Logan had made suburban the Los Angeles region famous, even gracing the cover of southbay magazine. The World Surf League, firing him in the most terse sentence ever penned, then unashamedly paddling his point pure and unadulterated provocation.

The South Bay.

Though exactly where in the South Bay remained a guarded mystery… until minutes ago.

For minutes ago, a crack sneak has declared “The new WSL HQ will be at 2201 Rosecrans, El Segundo, CA 90245. It is only taking up a portion of the building. Move-in date should be December.”

And there we have it.

But who will be sharing space with “the global home of surfing?”

An animal urgent care facility.

And the headquarters for the National Veterinary Associates, inc.

Pet cemetery.


Back to the civil war, though, have you decided which side you’ll take yet?

Clock is ticking.