"The person was doing bodysurfing on the waves when a rough wave swept him and crashed him onto the dune."
Surfers, and let’s be honest, this includes you, very much secretly love when the conversation around the dinner table turns to how dangerous this Sport of Kings is. Eyes lightly widened, lips pursed a touch as undertows, man eating great white sharks, drownings, etc. are brought up in hushed tones. Surfers, you too, sitting back slightly and feeling as tough as Jake Gyllenhaal in the new Road House reboot.
But we, each of us, know that our surfing, practiced on foam and fiberglass tables ranging from 5’5 to 6’10 in waves from 3 to 6 feet, is safer than rollerblading.
Other forms, of course, much more worthy of the aforementioned lightly widened eyes, pursed lips, hushed tones, including rhino chasing Jaws, boogie boarding the Box and bodysurfing anywhere.
Skin sliding, back arched, neck extended, forehead ready to kiss sandbar is, tragically, back in the news after an expert died whilst practicing in India.
According to authorities, the British man was giving hell to Varkala Beach in Kerala when a “rough wave swept him and crashed him onto the dune.” An on-duty lifeguard told The Independent, “The person was doing body surfing on the waves when a rough wave swept him and crashed him onto the dune. He suffered injuries on the head and neck and we gave him first aid and took him to the hospital.”
Alas, nothing could be done and his injuries proved fatal.
The British government confirmed the calamity and is working with the man’s family to bring his body home.
Calls of increased attention to safety delivered to all visiting India’s mystical shore.
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Hes lucky hes dead.
Quadraphenia wluld suk
People die in the indian ocean. the local kerala government should fund jetski water patrol, more lifeguards, water safety signs and swimming lessons
fucked back chakra,
namaste cunt
Maybe he will reincarnate as a piece of coral in the South Pacific and return the favor some day
I’ll take Patrick Swayze and Sam Elliot over current crop all day. Swayze could dance, surf, fight, and turn a women on as a ghost. New guy got type cast ever since his mountain project..
shit ending as well just ran out of ideas!!!
that clown mcgregor was woeful as well
Didn’t sound like a safe time to be India water…RIP currents etc.
Pretty easy to hurt yourself in closeout shorebreak but also really easy to learn how to move through the impact zone while preventing injury. I’ve separated my ac joint landing hard on my shoulder, wasn’t that painful but was annoying to deal with.
True, picturing Chas on his 6’10 funboard at “3-6ft” (Surfline… i.e. 1-2ft) Grandview, “danger” is not the word that comes to mind.
Did you say Dane? man I miss that guy!
It’s a mid but you are exactly right. Not dangerous.