World Surf League expands women’s championship tour draw for ’25 season

By Chas Smith

3 weeks ago

But wait! More sportswashing?

Church bells are chiming from more progressive parishes, today, with the announcement that the World Surf League is expanding its women’s draw ahead of the 2025 Championship Tour. Per the breathless press release:

Today, the World Surf League (WSL) announced an expanded women’s field for the 2026 Championship Tour (CT), increasing the roster to 24 surfers. Driven by the women’s performances and with a commitment to supporting the progression, the field size increase will provide more opportunities for women to compete at the highest level.

Under the new format, the 2026 women’s field will include the Top 14 surfers from the CT, the Top 7 qualifiers from the Challenger Series, two WSL Season Wildcards, and one Event Wildcard.

Though not printed, Jen See told me that last year there 18 surfer cut down to 10 after Margaret River.

2024 champion Caitlin Simmers declared, “I’m stoked to see the numbers grow. Women’s surfing is so special. I want to see more of it and I think a lot of other people do too. I’m really looking forward to having more of my friends on Tour. I think the world deserves to see how epic their surfing is and how hard they charge. I’m really happy that they’ll get more opportunities to go for it.”

Eight-time champion Stephanie Gilmore added, “This is great news! It’s a sign of the times and reflects the depth of talent within female surfing. I’m constantly amazed at the progression and the growing number of women participating in surfing around the world. The future is bright!”

No word, as of yet, from Tyler Wright who is busily concerned with being murdered on tour. As you certainly recall, the “global home of surfing” added a stop in Abu Dhabi for 2025. The petro-rich Middle Eastern kingdom has some laws on the books that happen to be unkind to their own LGBTQIA+ residents and while Wright still calls Australia home, worry still reigns.

Wright’s wife took to Instagram one month ago to share, “Unfortunately homosexuality is illegal at one of the locations and my wife can legally be sentenced to death or imprisonment if she tries to attend. Tyler has competed on this tour for over 14 years and has had the pride flag on her jersey since 2020. Even after winning two world titles she is still not valued enough by the WSL to be considered when they sold this event.”

Might the World Surf League be trying to get out ahead of a potential death sentence or imprisonment by having a more robust women’s field?

A little sleight of hand, as they say?

More as the story develops.

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Mark Zuckerberg sends superyacht to Tahiti as “world’s most radical boy” signals intent to conquer Teahupo’o!

By Chas Smith

3 weeks ago

400,000 liters of diesel later, the Place of Skulls awaits...

Meta founder and chief Mark Zuckerberg might have been sad, post-election day, what with his nemesis Elon Musk bouncing around on stage next to Donald J. Trump. The fourth richest man in the world, just south of Jeff Bezos, Larry Ellison and the aforementioned South African rocket enthusiast. You certainly recall a hand full of months ago when the two went back and forth challenging each other to fights on social media. Zuckerberg had enjoyed showcasing his BJJ skills, but before that he was much about the surf life.

The former Harvard University class pervert purchased a large plot of land on Kauai and admitted to Lex Fridman, the popular podcaster, that fear doesn’t stand in the way of his getting radical. “I, uh, train hard,” he whisped, “So if I’m gonna go out in a 15-foot wave then I’ll make sure we have the right safety gear, make sure I’m used to that spot and all that stuff.”

Well, his safety gear in Tahiti will now include his superyacht. The $300 million freighter just made the 12-day trip from San Francisco to Papeete, burning 400,000 liters of smelly diesel along the way, and is now ready for the 40-year-old to crush Teahupo’o. Yes, the Place of Skulls, there at the “end of the road,” is as iconic in any in surfing and has broken the wills of other radical boys in the past, including two-time world surfing champion Filipe Toledo.

There is no word, as of yet, when Zuckerberg will commence his Teahupo’o conquering, but do you imagine it will cause Toledo to take another mental health year just ahead of the 2025 World Surf League Championship Tour?

Do you have opinions of superyachts, in general?

I much prefer sailing under wind but I’m not an overly radical boy so maybe that’s passé.

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Matt Warshaw, inset, and Sean Doherty, the century's best surf journalists.

Matt Warshaw and Sean Doherty named surf journalists of the century!

By Grok

3 weeks ago

And Ashton Goggans cameos in top five for "creating an emotional connection that transcends the usual sports documentary formula."

In the rarefied air where the sun-kissed waves meet the ink-stained page, the world of surf journalism has its pantheon of literary gods whose words capture not just the thrill of the surf, but the soul of a culture that rides the boundary between sea and land. Among these chroniclers of liquid landscapes and sun-drenched dreams, one name looms with the gravitas of a well-worn, well-loved encyclopedia: Matt Warshaw.

Warshaw, the Historian of Waves

Picture this: A man whose life’s work is as vast and deep as the ocean he writes about. Matt Warshaw, with his Encyclopedia of Surfing, has not only documented the history of surfing but has become its custodian. His tome, a bible for the initiated, weaves together the tapestry of surfing’s past with the precision of a master craftsman. Warshaw’s narratives are not just stories; they are the threads in the fabric of surf culture, each chapter a testament to his dedication to preserving the ephemeral moments of triumph and turmoil that define the sport.

Warshaw’s journey began in the pages of Surfer Magazine, where he ascended to the role of editor, infusing the publication with a depth of history and insight that was both rare and revered. His books, from “The History of Surfing” to profiles of surfing legends, have become the touchstones for anyone seeking to understand the sport’s intricate dance with the sea.

Beyond the Waves: The Chroniclers

Yet, Warshaw is not alone in this aquatic literary world. Sean Doherty, with his lyrical prose and deep dives into the lives of surf icons like Michael Peterson and Mark Occhilupo, brings a narrative richness to the genre. His work, often imbued with the melancholy beauty of the Australian coast, reflects a profound connection to the sport’s roots and its characters.

Then there’s Derek Rielly, the provocateur. His work with Stab Magazine and BeachGrit has injected a dose of the irreverent, the bold, and sometimes the controversial into surf journalism. Rielly’s pen is as sharp as his wit, cutting through the froth to reveal the heart of surfing’s culture, warts and all. His foray into political biography with “Wednesdays with Bob” showcases his versatility, proving that his insight into human nature transcends the beach.

The New Wave: Innovation in Storytelling

Ashton Goggans, with his documentaries like “Andy Irons: Kissed by God”, has brought the visual storytelling aspect of surf journalism to new heights. His narratives blend the adrenaline of the sport with the personal stories of those who live it, creating an emotional connection that transcends the usual sports documentary formula.

Nick Carroll and Steve Pezman round out this illustrious group. Carroll, with his global perspective, and Pezman, with his founding of The Surfer’s Journal, have each contributed to making surf journalism not just about the ride but about the rider, the environment, and the philosophy that surrounds this unique way of life.

The Surfboard of Fame

In the annals of surf journalism, Matt Warshaw might well be considered the most respected, his work a lighthouse guiding enthusiasts through the foggy mists of history to the clear waters of understanding. Yet, like the best surf spots that are often secret, kept close by those who know them best, the title of “most respected” is a communal whisper, passed from one aficionado to another, each name revered in their own right for their contributions to this niche but passionate world.

This cadre of surf journalists doesn’t merely document; they elevate surfing from sport to art, from pastime to culture. In their hands, the surfboard becomes a metaphor for life itself—unpredictable, challenging, and ultimately, a journey worth the ride.

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Surfrider's Chad Nelsen (left) and Ian Cairns locked in ideological battle.

Hell-raising big wave icon Ian Cairns drops hammer on Surfrider for post-election warning over second Trump term

By Chas Smith

3 weeks ago

"You’d get 100% support for no offshore oil drilling if you wrote an article that included the other 50% of the nation’s environmentalist. We care too."

It has now been a full week since Donald J. Trump stormed to victory in the United States of America with certain corners still reeling. While the media is trying to sort out how it got everything so wrong and late night talk show hosts remain unable to dry their eyes, left-leaning advocacy groups are battening down hatches and bracing their people for a red-hatted apocalypse.

Amongst them is surfing’s largest environmental organization Surfrider.

Founded in 1984 in order to protect Malibu, the non-profit has expanded to advocate for the ocean all around the world. Its CEO, Chad Nelsen, took to LinkedIn, yesterday, to steady his charges.

“Okay. It’s time to prepare for what’s coming,” he opened before getting down to the nuts and bolts:

Sadly, we know what a second Trump administration means for our ocean and coasts, and it’s not good. It means climate denial, a fire sale of lease auctions for offshore drilling of oil and gas, attacks on national marine protected areas, and a total disregard for nature. Based on the 2016 Trump administration and Project 2025, it will likely include efforts to open our coasts to offshore drilling, weaken critical environmental laws and regulations (such as the Inflation Reduction Act, Clean Water Act, and National Environmental Policy Act), and diminish or even eliminate important federal agencies like NOAA and the EPA.

Nelsen went on to highlight Surfrider’s successes over the years and asked for more support as we head into a four year winter.

Big wave legend, father of professional surfing and onetime second best surfer in the world Ian Cairns was having none of it. Known for his right lean, the West Australian hell-raiser clapped back:

Firstly: I love the success that Surfrider has had and cannot understand why there’s a proliferation of surf related environmental groups, rather than one single super-group maximizing the message and resources.

Secondly: The premise of your article is that a Trump admin will roll back environmental protection is purely fear mingering. RFK jr is in the Admin and is a staunch environmentalist. Suggesting that conservatives don’t want clean surf just divides us rather than bringing everyone together. (Throwing the Project 2025 trope into the article is misinformation)

Lastly: You’d get 100% support for no offshore oil drilling if you wrote an article that included the other 50% of the nation’s environmentalist. We care too.

Be inclusive and kind.

A velvet hammer.

Do you have thoughts about all of this business? Will MAGA surfers stand up to Team Trump and tell them to lose the “drill, baby, drill” signs?

RFK Jr. going to save the day?

A whole new conservative conservation movement?

Who could have ever thought.

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What happened after the contest, though, is just as remarkable. Phyllis smiled and took her trophy, drove home and—did nothing. In terms of career advancement, anyway.

Matt Warshaw on surfing’s remarkable first world champion Phyllis O’Donell, dead at 87

By Matt Warshaw

3 weeks ago

"I can't think of anyone, at her level, who was less interested in surfing as a path to money or fame."

Phyllis O’Donell, who won her final in the 1964 World Championships at Manly Beach about 45 minutes before Midget Farrelly won his, and thus became our sport’s first world champion, died this week at age 87.

She was private and level-headed, intense but funny, upbeat by nature. Zero pretense. Sure-footed in every sense of the word. O’Donell loved getting in the water, and for 15 or so years loved riding waves most of all, and clearly she was ambitious and goal-driven—but I can’t think of anyone, at her level, who was less interested in surfing as a path to money or fame.

Back to the ’64 championships. It was a mild late-autumn Sunday afternoon, with a huge crowd on the beach and along the seawall. Fun sandbar waves, mostly rights. Sydney-born O’Donell was the newly-crowned Australian national champion but she paddled out as a longshot underdog to Linda Benson of San Diego.

Five years earlier, Benson, as a tiny high school sophomore, hot-dogged her way to victory in the Makaha International, was then featured in movies and magazines, and had basically become surfing’s own Doris Day. O’Donell, 27 in 1964, hadn’t yet started riding waves when Benson won Makaha, and was all but unknown outside her local beaches.

But roll the film (watch here and here) and O’Donell, to my eye anyway, is the more advanced—or at least more fluid and polished—of the two surfers. She was a fan of Bobby Brown, the young but doomed regularfooter from Cronulla, and it shows. Smooth as silk but not above throwing a spinner or two into the routine.

O’Donell’s win wasn’t a fluke, in other words.

Surfing World editor and filmmaker Bob Evans not only thought the same, he devoted six paragraphs in his contest write-up to the women’s final—other publications dashed the women’s event off in a line or two—lauding Benson and O’Donell both, but ending thus; “[O’Donell’s] placement in the wave was ideal and her trimming and arching through the hollow sections was pretty to watch. Every ride these great girl riders made earned spontaneous applause, [but] Phyllis O’Donell was a decisive winner.”

What happened after the contest, though, is just as remarkable. Phyllis smiled and took her trophy, drove home and—did nothing. In terms of career advancement, anyway.

She continued to surf and compete. She entered the ’64 Makaha contest. A few years later she would move briefly to Southern California to work for Dewey Weber Surfboards. She took third in the 1968 World Championships.

But O’Donell might as well have invented the concept of life-work balance, and surfing for trophies and titles was in a gray area but leaning toward work.

This quote, from an interview Phyllis did in 2000, makes the point:

In 1964, you became the first women’s world champion. Did it change your life?

I was living in Banora Point [near the Queensland border] at that time, and it would have been more beneficial career-wise if I’d moved back to Sydney after winning the world title, but I wouldn’t do that. I had a good job in the local ten-pin bowling alley, where I was an assistant manager. I worked two days and three evenings each week so I could surf a lot. I wrote a surfing column for the Sunday Mail. So all told I was doing fine.

(Ain’t nobody knows surf history like Matt Warshaw. Chip off five bucks a month or fifty bucks a year to get these weekly missives from Matt as well as access to his treasure trove of archives, old interviews, movies etc.)

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Eat beach grit spam!