Crocodile at Macaronis in the Menatwai Islands.
Big ol croc at Maccas.

Mentawai surfing pioneer Martin Daly reports crocodiles at Macaronis

“Surfing with apex predators is not optimal.”

The name Martin Daly rings a few bells don’t it. You might remember him as the skipper of the Indies Trader, the fifty-year-old former salvage boat Marty used to explore the Mentawai Islands, revealing the remarkable archipelago slowly over a decade. 

First with Rip Curl’s The Search movie series and peaking with Jeff Hornbaker’s No Destination and The Hole at the end of the nineties.

These days he’s master of a Pacific alt-universe specifically Beran Island in the Marshals, a twenty-hour sail from Majuro, the republic’s capital city.

Here Daly built an off-the-grid lodge for sixteen people, powered by wind turbines and solar panels. All of the rubbish the lodge creates is processed and all non-biodegradable refuse is taken back to Majuro’s dump furnaces and its recycling centre. He grows watermelons, papaya, tomatoes, kale, catches a ton of fish and even keeps a few hogs.

It’s where Natural Selection played out, if you’re wondering. 

Anyway, back to the Ments. 

Earlier today, Daly posted footage of a crocodile swimming through the Macaronis lineup. 

Rumours of crocs at one of my most favourite waves that I’ve been surfing for over 40 years are rumours no longer. Big fella has been there for quite a while, saw another only slightly smaller one last year at a nearby break. First we’ve seen here , surfing with apex predators is not optimal , they have left us alone up until now but….. 

 

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Confirmation of the sighting at Macaronis was revealed in the comments and, further afield in the Telos, one surfer told of a croc killing a local woman.

Saltwater crocodiles are native to Indonesia and found in Sumatra, particularly in coastal mangroves, estuaries, and rivers.

 

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Chris Hemsworth inside giant Easter barrel
Chris Hemsworth and the surrealism of a tow barrel.

World’s best surfers pay homage to Chris Hemsworth after photos emerge of star in giant Easter barrel

"Backdoor Thor!"

You might’ve heard there’s been a few waves kicking around on Australia’s east coast, another one of them big lows that sits offshore spinning perfectly angled east swells straight into every twist and hook across fifteen hundred clicks of coast. 

And the actor Chris Hemsworth, a Hollywood action hero beloved by DJ Fisher who, in the vein of a young Barack Obama spoke frankly of his desire to bareback the star’s pink-brown hole (“Imagine slapping that fucking arse”) was the star of a recent tow-session with former pro surfers Bede Durbidge and Luke Munro. 

Chris Hemsworth, a well preserved forty-one, modestly dropped a carousel of surf shots on his Instagram account, fifty-eight million followers can you believe, to universal acclaim from the best surfers in the world. 

 

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Italo Ferreira, “Yeah, big boy.”

Tom Carroll, “In the ZONE.”

Gabriel Medina, “Oh shit!”

Nathan Florence, “Mental.”

Kai Lenny, “Haha, that’s insane.”

Strider Wasilewski, “Oh damn…that’s a bomb.”

Citizen cop Joel Parkinson, “Wow!!! Huge!!”

Leo Fioravanti, “Weapon.”

Bed and breakfast proprietor, Matt Wilkinson, “Whaaat.”

Taj Burrow, “No way! Firing.”

Dean Morrison, “I heard you got waves of the day.”

Tow buddy Bede Durbidge, “Charging that hard mate.”

The best comment goes to little Kalani Robb who, channelling DJ Fisher, writes: “Backdoor Thor.” 

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Dion Agius hospitalised with a collapsed lung.
Dion "Baby" Agius hospitalised with a collapsed lung.

“I couldn’t breathe!” Aussie surf star hospitalised in Switzerland after near-fatal crash

"Had to get rushed to the ER and ended up in the hospital for 4 days hooked up to a machine to suck the air out of my chest."

The former boogieboarder turned hipster-freesurfing nomad god, Dion Agius, a staple in Kai Neville’s films of the 2010s if you’ll remember, has written of his recent near-death experience from a hospital bed in Switzerland. 

Collapsed lung, emergency surgery, four days in hozzy.

Dion “Baby” Agius, who turns forty in one week can you believe, shocked fans with a photograph where the diminutive goofy footer is making an obscene hand gesture while strapped up and plugged into various medical devices. 

Agius writes, 

Got a bit too excited to be finally snowboarding again after four years and got smoked catching a rail first day in and somehow managed to land on the iciest patch on the mountain straight on my chest and ended up collapsing my lung and having to get rushed to the ER for an operation and ended up in the hospital for 4 days hooked up to a machine to suck the air out of my chest. 

Is never a fun time being in a hospital in a foreign country but they all took the best care of me. 

Unfortunately I didn’t get to make exactly what I had hoped for the show and missed most of the time on the mountain to make stuff but did manage to make a few things as well as some spray paint prints from the stencils I was going to use for some sculptures.

I ran up a pretty hefty 30k bill in the Swiss hospital (maybe try not to go to hospital in Switzerland if you can avoid it , even though the treatment was 5 star and some tasty meals) and Seems as though my travel insurance doesn’t want to cover it due to my top notch snowboard skills so I’m gonna sell some of the prints the to go towards the bill if anyone wants one going to be making a few more so drop me a DM.

Just wanted to say 

Moral of the story is always double check your insurance and don’t be a kook and land on your chest on the ice.

Thoughts, prayers etc.

 

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Bruce Irons (pictured) in Coachella-adjacent.
Bruce Irons (pictured) in Coachella-adjacent.

Surf legend Bruce Irons back in competitive singlet for Coachella event!

Cool business in the desert.

It is Coachella week, in Southern California. The time of year when an assortment of celebrities and super music fans flock to the desert in wide-brimmed hats to celebrate themselves. This is weekend two and Lady Gaga, Missy Elliott, Three 6 Mafia, The Prodigy, Lola Young and many more will be performing on multiple stages.

As fate would have it, surf legend Bruce Irons will be performing too and very nearby. The entertainment giant Goldenvoice, you see, has turned the Palm Springs Surf Club into the Goldenvoice Surf Club wherein DJs spin records and professional surfers professionally surf. According to People Magazine, “‘Expression Sessions’ were held in the wave pool, which saw pro surfers including Bruce Irons, Skip McCollugh, Jacob “Zeke” Szekely, Ryan Huckabee and Chance Gaul competing in categories such as best air, best wave and most creative for $4,000 in cash prizes.”

Very cool and who do you think won? but back to Coachella, have you ever been? I have, thrice. Two times when it was first getting started some many years ago then once more recently. My favorite act of those early festivals was Teddybears.

Enjoy here.

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Great Gatsby themed house
"Mick Fanning's house is sophistication, rebellion, and indulgence. It balances elegance with excess, often hinting at the underlying tragedy of unattainable dreams."

Mick Fanning’s Great Gatsby-themed beachfront compound smashes price records in pre-auction frenzy!

"Mick Fanning's house balances elegance with excess, often hinting at the underlying tragedy of unattainable dreams."

If you ever lived on the southern end of the Gold Coast before the big developers moved in and prices went through the sky, two mill and up for a box at Rainbow Bay, you’d realise the absurdity of a buyer throwing almost twenty mill at a house across the road from noisy ol’ Coolangatta airport. 

But here we are, Australia, the lucky country. 

A joint so rich in  natural resources but so dumb politically, we ship our ore, our gas, overseas for peanuts while keeping the economy superficially bouncing along with the mass importation of people.

A house used to be the Australian dream, then a little apartment, now it’s earning enough in the gig economy to keep up with rents that soar twenty percent every year. 

Still, there’s big money out there.

And, Mick Fanning, the forty-four-year-old three-time champ, has just sold his sprawling beachfront estate called Rolling Seas at Bilinga pre-auction for $16.5 mill. It’s a record price for a joint between Coolangatta and Currumbin. 

Fanning bought the land in 2011 for $3.25 and built the Great Gatsby-inspired house, which he lived in briefly. It’s where Fanning’s mysterious strawberry blonde stalker busted into a few years back.

“I occasionally want to kill you … to end our occasional miserable bullshit,” the woman told Fanning in a letter prior to her unannounced visit.

Celebrity stylists Three Birds Renovation did a number on the joint a couple of years back that turned the place into the sorta Palm Springs themed place André Balazs had in mind when he redeveloped the old Golden Crest Hotel Retirement Home on 8300 Sunset, West Hollywood.

(RIP The Standard West Hollywood) 

As one outlet reported,

“Mick Fanning’s house is sophistication, rebellion, and indulgence. It balances elegance with excess, often hinting at the underlying tragedy of unattainable dreams.”

The stretch of sand along Bilinga is as ordinary as they come, rarely, like, never, delivering a day worth even a pinch of shit, as they say.

So you got your big ol beachfront joint and you still have to jump in the truck to go surfing, either at nearby D-Bah, Kirra, Snapper in the south or the better beachies just north in Currumbin and Palm Beach.

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