A new wave of German, Belgian and Swiss surfers arriving in BMWs and Teslas, squeezing locals out of surging property market.
The very pretty French town of Hossegor, four hours south-west of Paname by train or fifteen hours in a car squatting in July traffic, is often on my mind, its combo of shark-free, world-class beachbreaks and beach lifestyle unequalled in the world.
As I’ve often written, but repeat here for anyone new, for a couple of years at the turn of the century I lived in a beach house built into the sand dunes of La Graviere, the weeks passing in a kaleidoscope of pretty good, though rarely epic, waves, despite the rep, and excellent, and often epic, Dutch and Wales-sourced ecstasy.
Coulda bought the house back then for two hundred and fifty gees. Didn’t. Split to Bondi, doomed to bad waves forever more although did buy in to the insane property market there so not all bad etc.
Hossegor locals, however, are incensed that the joint has become flooded by bourgeois beginner surfers from Germany, Switzerland, Belgium and so on, crowding the beaches, who can forget the town teetering on the brink of war two months ago after a wild male-on-female clash at a German surfing contest there, and pushing property prices into the stratosphere.
Left-leaning newspaper Le Monde has reported a “new wave” of bourgeois families “in BMWs and Teslas” treating a Hossegor summer vacay in the same way as a winter trip to the Alps.
Christophe Guibert, a sociologist and tourism expert at the University of Angers, told the newspaper: “Twenty years ago, councils saw surfers as hippies on the margins of society. Today, tourist professionals love these rather bourgeois customers who come for a week, rent houses, pay for lessons and buy materiel.”
In Hossegor, houses have surged 50% in five years, while hotel bookings in the are are up twenty percent. Budget hostels once favoured by 20th-century surfers are being transformed into upscale hotels charging premium rates.
I often scroll through the listings on Leboncoin.fr or La Figaro, seeing what I can get around Les Estagnots, a little north of town and where all the sexy people live. Ain’t a damn thing under a million American dollars.
Pretty epic and perennial left just out front.
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and still says he drives a “van” – cunts!
You’re perfect for our I Hate Surfing range coming out real soon!
Would Like to know what all these people did before the started surfing post covid?
Well it’s like that all over the world.
We normalized being a kook, and surfing is now aquatic yoga.
It goes without saying that aquatic yoga is just a bit more accommodating for dickheads, women, VALs, backpackers, etc. than it used to be.
Surfing used to be solely about performance, and if you got past 30 and couldn’t hit the lip, you had to take the walk of shame and buy an 8′ mini mal.
If you want to pinpoint where it all went wrong, look no further than Litmus. That movie is where riding a low-performance board was normalized. Don’t even start with Tom Curren on the fireball fish, Tom took that board out in a comp as a protest against the shit surf and even unintentionally beat Matt Hoy (I think it was), because he was just that fucking good.
Jack Johnson, Donovan Frankenreiter, Beau Young (or is it the brother)? all wouldn’t be living off this hipster wanker acoustic muso “let’s pretend it’s 1970” shtick if either.
Van life would be for hobos and hardcore surf nazis, not instagram poseurs, and there certainly wouldn’t be pimped kombis selling for more than an annual wage.
So thanks for nothing, Litmus, you sewed the seeds of our doom.
Dang, Andrew Kidman killed surfing!
Him and Derek hynd.
nah Alby did!!
Tom actually took out a 1970 Skip frye twin fin…huge big plastic twins………..he just wanted to ride something different…as he was bored with competing…it completely psyched out Hoyo..he lost….
Litmus was an attempt to do something different…made by a rich city boy, acted like a an old hippy…so was maybe the start of the Hipster movement….but was a canvas for non-competitors to become relevant……but one could also say the same about Morning of the Earth….a bunch of urban surfers moved to the country…..???
It’s just really different now, surfing has become mainstream , the industry caters for mainstream, it’s all ver vanilla now, with a few pockets of resistance left!
God i cannot stand Jack Johnson. Absolute drivel. Anyone who likes that shit doesn’t know what music is.
Was well on the way to be overexploited/ ruined pre 2020 but, like many places, pointless lockdowns (French city dwellers saying “fk that, I’m not going through that again”) gave it a massive shove further down that road
… Lockdown in France was such a great time – up north it was pretty much locals only during the time when you werent allowed more than 10km from Home. Good times…
There countless decades ago and you know it was full of posers with Johnny boy come lately types. Must be ultimately tense nowadays. It will all end up like Nero playing violin as it all burns to hell
Welcome to my world. The tourism/real estate/ex pat hipster profiteering cartel has now flooded the entire planet like out of control fat cockroaches. There is absolutely no place safe from these insidious vermin. The end is not near. It has already arrived.
Mrs Madeoff, at 58 yrs old, remains entertained when mem and women alike are surprised she(yes a woman) surfs at her age or for that matter at all. So I’m surprised surfing is garnering so much attention as an extreme sport for the bourgeois. But then again we did see an uptick in backcountry skiers during covid but most have gone back to lift served skiing so we can hope the same occurs with surfing.
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Don’t forget the agro Parisian mom with her Goyard beach bag
Oooooo, Gil could go for a cheeky glass of French Bourgeois.
Been that way here for a decade
Surfing is a pastime for the rich.
Here too, ski towns as well
RE is so high locally, Julia Roberts at least has WC set ups
I’ve just discovered this shitblossom of a ‘magazine’ which I suspect is purely LLM-created.
https://www.americansurfmagazine.com/article/surf-newcastle-australia
That’s some seriously entertaining reading. From gear needed, to things to do on days when it’s flat.
Do you work in tech?
Oh man fuck le french. Thats pretty rich considering what they are doing elsewhere.
In Portugal they ripped the real estate market to pieces, drove prices through the roof, and have semi-colonized Lisbon with their luxury german cars (never seen a french driving a peugeot) overpriced shops and irritating french manners.
Fucking fuckers
human nature, not just French!
True . We might even be complaining about the same french – moneyed parisiens!
Do you now feel like an honorary frenchman or still feel an outsider?
I actually think the whole Parisian/swiss etc invasion is a global phenomenon……
I still have pretty strong French connection ,and I think the French understand the early pioneering days, and actually it sems like there’s more respect than ever…was a few rough years…..but only an outsider to people who are new to surfing!
Urban wealth!
like every great surf spot on the planet…the surfers settled and then the money followed….in Hossegor at the moment…….busy summer..but even in the last week , town has emptied and yes Hossegor has new rich demographic of Parisians/Swiss/germans/English etc……but Hossegor was always bourgeois, Capbreton a fishing village……and Hossegor is only a 100 years old…..so surf is crowded…the upmarket shops in Town are booming and the seconds shops are down…..hmm…haves are doing great……the have less’s very cautious with their remaining $’s….and just for the recoerd …Torquay had a 100% spike in real estate
So many surf towns have gone up 100% in the last 5 years. Many lots of land in guiones have gone up 200 and 300%.
If you could live anywhere in that pretty little enclave, where would it be? Capbreton, triangle d’or with Pauly Evans? Seignosse around Les Estagnots with Reid, Belly and crew?
nah further north or inland….
As close to La Piste as possible
squeezed a few Hossegor locals in the early 90’s who actually enjoyed a good foreign squeeze.
My how time’s have changed.
The greatest place on earth. Unparalleled. And keeps you fit as fuck.
Xox
was!
Still pretty good.
yeah pretty good from the worlds best most uncrowded surf, with N swells constantly and now the beaches have changed/banks at La Grav , doesn’t exist anymore….just really crowded and …??
Well of course you had it in its prime but its prime is still relative to me. I adore the place and its quirks!
Xox
do you need a wetsuit?
Sometimes you can surf nude!
I do love full wetsuits in the surf anyhoo, full of basal cells!
Xox
Not the first time Germans have been driving all over the beaches there with their BMW,s (panzers, tigers also)
The French are such arseholes when they travel around Aus in their vans i don’t feel much sympathy for them on the home front
lucky for the French , the Australians who infest their surf who live in vans are so polite/gracious and ?????
A very not rich tradie with kids can live at the beach on the northern beaches, humbly, no probs, and surf uncrowded waves if self employed, but dont tell anyone.
Also, just got back from a snow trip
The rich ski racers from Europe and north America are down under for the ANCs as I type this. Yes in an Olympic year they travel bigly hoping to score an Olympic slot for their country…and their social media exploits. But do they surf?
Good season this year but its a lottery usually, it dumps then rains, then they groom and itz ok.
Looks like it on the webcams. The ski racers just finished ANC races in Mt Hutt and now they hop across to Thredbo for races on the 25th. The kids from Oz are skiing well in the hopes of Olympic team berths.
One time iwas in mount hutt and some world cup racing was on , we were staying at the same place the competiors were staying, most of them were wankers.
As a former ski racing parent I approve of your post!!
Very demanding, had to be in bed early and sounded like nazis
It was brutal but it was their choice as we just supported/facilitated their goals and they loved it until they saw a different pathway. Now as mid 20s adults they rarely sleep in on the weekends as it was rarely a part of their chosen childhood pursuits. So things like early morning surfing or powder days are easy for them
Nice work dad!!
Long before kids and very instructive under the category of thall shall nots
We can only try to do our best.
You nailed it. I’ve watch too many “perfect parents” raise tragically challenging kids into adulthood.
Everyday my kids are happy and healthy is a good day.