Hardboiled big-wave surfer hospitalised after spine-shattering wipeout

Three months before the groundbreaking big-waver can walk again…

The French big-wave surfer, the first woman to surf mythical outer-reef Belharra and two-time XXL award winner Justine Dupont, has revealed she busted her spine during the Thriller at Killers big-wave event, held in twenty-foot waves, this past weekend. 

The Thriller at Killers is, to quote literature associated with the event, “a big-wave surf competition founded by Gary Linden and presented by Punta Brava Golf & Surf Club. It’s comprised of a one-day Main Event during a January-February swell window and a Digital Qualifier, which provides a platform for any surfer capable in big waves to earn an invite to the Main Event. This is more than just another competition — it’s a celebration of the adventurous spirit of surfing and the rich cultural heritage of the entire Bahia de Todos Santos region.”

So far so good, yes?

Well, yes, until the hardboiled, no-nonsense, fear-no-wave Justin Dupont got belted by a clean-up set.

“It was an amazing event, amazing conditions, big waves,” Dupont said from her 10k a day hozzy bed, peachy skin glowing, champagne hair bobbing. “I wanted to to catch big ones, and I ended up catching a big one on the head. I messed up my back and couldn’t surf anymore for the final. I want to thank a lot all the surfers, all the water safety, all the medical staff that helped me to get out of the water. It wasn’t easy with a messed up back.”

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Justine and her busted L1 vertebrae were delivered to San Diego where she was placed in a brace, like yike, although she says she’s gonna be walking and surfing within three months.

“Everything’s going to be ok,” she reassured fans. 

Dupont had a helluva run in big surf.

Four years ago, Justine nearly drowned at Nazaré after wiping out in front of the cliff there, saved by the grace of god and the terrific jetski pilot skills of Lucas “Chumbo” Chianca, big bro of the world number one Joao, hardly needs introduction whose adventures at Nazaré and Jaws list him as one of the sport’s greats. 

The last time Chumbo filled these pages he was nailed to the online cross after he posted a photograph of a day with his little fam at Discovery Cove, posing with the captive dolphins. 

Unhappy dolphins worth the price?

“How sad Lucas, total disappointment, where is the respect for his fans? We too can disagree with wrong attitudes… very easy to just leave the comments that are convenient for you…this fight over using marine animals for entertainment is epic!! I adore you saying you are from the sea, and promoting something so surreal… and still deletes my comments…”

“One day humans will pay for what they have done to nature! Holding little animals captive and funding this is disgusting too! You didn’t even have the courage to leave disappointed comments from people who looked up to you! Don’t think your money will buy your happiness because time passes and nature takes!!!” 

I ain’t one for putting animals in cages, zoos, water parks, dancing orcas, ooowee, it gives me shivers although I did love the Flipper TV shows and movies, and I believe they mowed through a hundred or so dolphins in the making.

Maybe worth it?