"Why does everyone have a hard-on for people
surfing at 70%?"
Do you like opinion? Of course you do. Who
doesn’t? But the avoidance of anything resembling opinion has
become a fetish in the surf world.
If you were to scroll through as many BeachGrit posts
as you could stomach, you would find it all pretty tame, a squabble
here and there, a few high words, some cheap jokes, not much else.
But the angry scenes! The recriminations!
A “veteran” or anyone barely throwing tail is not progression
it’s the opposite it’s moving backwards.
Isn’t humour and satire and real talk compensation for the
drizzly dreariness of our lives?
Let’s ask Albee Layer, the noted Maui surfer, for his opinion on
the Quiksilver Pro, 2016.
Why the f**k does everyone have a hard-on for people surfing at
70% surfing won’t progress any where like that.
80% of people on and running CT don’t understand the difference
between different airs. A full rotation, an air reverse, a single
grab a double grab are all vastly different and are not on the same
level of difficulty. Also landings should matter
A “veteran” or anyone barely throwing tail is not progression
it’s the opposite it’s moving backwards.
Contests bring out the best out of some people and kind of
suffocate others true potential (JJF).”
What are Albee’s credentials for such criticisms? See below.
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Quiksilver Pro: “Stu K v Toledo
final!”
By Longtom
Prediction: defending champ vs lawnmower man from
Lennox Head…
Human all too Human.
The dream continues. Great day for the race.
Putin pulls out of Syria, Ohio and Florida primaries tomorrow, Stu
Kennedy continues his run in the biggest pro surfing cinderella
story since…since… the last time a highly fancied sponnoed surfer
was parachuted into a comp as wildcard and failed miserably. So,
ever.
Not a single military analyst saw Putin’s exit from Syria, same
with Kennedy’s wrecking ball run through the draw. Not one
commenter picked it, least of all me, and he lives around the
corner. Couple of weeks ago I saw him out the front mowing the
lawn, thought the dream was over and he was a phone call away from
picking up a Jim’s Mowing franchise.
Just by way of preamble, I parked down in the Cooly-gatta by the
old ASP headquarters. To get a panorama of the Superbank. If you’re
reading in America, or England, or Hawaii, or Israel or South
Africa and you haven’t seen this thing, you’re really missing
something. It’s phenomenal. A mile of ruler-edged sand, waves of
amazing perfection whipcracking at maximum surfboard speed. Not
dirty green or brown like Sandspit. They slither like phantasmic
eels in electric blue, Tahitian Pacific warm blue. You’ve got to
see it, surf it. You only need one. Just one.
From the vantage of the rocks at Little Marley, Stu K out surfed
JJF in the morning round four heat in the best looking surf of
the event. Rielly asked me to get technical today in the wrap. By
that analysis Stu beat with him superior repertoire, turn speed,
drive off the bottom and rotational arc.
He failed the first critical finishing move to avoid running
over a freesurfer. He fell on the second to open the door for
Florence. Those flat spin air reverses from Florence where he hucks
off the lip and lands in the flats aren’t pretty and scream busted
ankle. But it was enough to get the job done. Kanoa was not in the
hunt. He’s had a dream run with low-scoring heats but if real talk
rules he would have not made a womens heat today.
Two guys look like Finalists. One is the defending champion and
one is a part-timer from Lennox who racked up a hell of a credit
card debt chasing the QS after Rip Curl dumped him in his prime. Is
he aggressive in the surf, does he take his and yours as well, ala
Fanning at the Superbank? Not at all. He’s the most mellow cat out
there. No interview today but tomorrow we’ll get down with the Stu
and see where the declarations of war come from
By forecasting a Brother revival in 2016 and a QF finish at
least I was ridiculed: Brother drops off Tour, Brother has a busted
hoof etc etc. To double down on the call, I predict Kolohe Andino
to take out the Aussie Leg and vy for the Republican nomination in
2020 as a dual world champion with Snips as VP and Speaker
verballing the empty chair.
Two guys look like finalists. One is the defending champion and
one is a part-timer from Lennox who racked up a hell of a credit
card debt chasing the QS after Rip Curl dumped him in his prime. Is
he aggressive in the surf, does he take his and yours as well, ala
Fanning at the Superbank? Not at all. He’s the most mellow cat out
there. No interview today but tomorrow we’ll get down with the Stu
and see where the declarations of war come from. Throw a question
in the comments and I’ll get it to him.
Without a media pass I had to hustle with the rest of the cattle
and all the dewey eyed groupies looking for a piece of Florence. I
wanted to know if had a strategy to rein in Toledo.
“Looks pretty obvious to me,” I said, “that Filipe is surfing at
a level well above everyone else. What are you going to do to beat
him?”
“Ummm, I don’t know, he’s human too, he’ll make his mistakes.
I’m just going to surf my best and not worry about him”.
Right.
As a strategy, the human, all-too-human strategy, has worked out
badly for JJF in the past. Remember the Final at Margies with De
Souza? Waiting for De Souza to make a mistake worked out, how? He
just calmly slotted two eights and put Florence to sleep.
Can anyone see Filipe crumbling? Seeing as how every Final he’s
been in he’s absolutely crushed his opponent. You’ll have to throw
him off the balcony of the fifth floor to cripple him first or give
him the pre-heat drug of choice of Wilson and Freestone. He’s going
to have to be outsurfed. Or out muscled and harassed by a no name
lawn-mower from the Ox.
Can anyone see Filipe crumbling? Seeing as how every Final he’s
been in he’s absolutely crushed his opponent. Put the fish and the
chicken on the combo plate as Ross Williams would say. Nup. You’ll
have to throw him off the balcony of the fifth floor to cripple him
first or give him the pre-heat drug of choice of Wilson and
Freestone. He’s going to have to be outsurfed. Or out muscled and
harassed by a no name lawn-mower from the Ox.
Didn’t the afternoon get weird. The vibe on the beach was low
key, kind of non-existent really, the surf faded out so I went
looking for expert commentary to watch the final heats unfold. I
found it in the form of BeachGrit commenter DeathStar who
was manning one of the core surfboard shops on the outskirts of
Byron Bay. Deathstar speaks from the perspective of thirty years in
the surfboard biz. I asked Deathstar to walk us through the
mechanics of the Parkinson/Ibelli restart.
Longtom: What the fuck just happened then
Deathstar?
Deathstar: They’ve had a talk and Parko’s said
to the young guy “We’re going in” and the young guy’s gone “Yes Mr
Parkinson, lets do that”. And an official has told them to get back
out there because this is surfing time.
Longtom: So Parko’s verballed him?
Deathstar: I think so. They didn’t stop the
clock. The surfers don’t have a right. It’s a professional event
and it’s on.
Longtom: Any other sport in the world where
that could happen. Where they’d just stop and say “nah we’re
done”.
Deathstar: “Maybe golf? If there was an
electrical storm. But no, can’t think of another sport where they
could just go nah, we’re not doing it. I just think that was
massive mind games from Joel Parkinson, the master. I’m
flabbergasted by that, we just saw a bit of history.
Longtom: What’s your overall assessment of this
event?
Deathstar: It’s been fascinating, I reckon. For
a lot of reasons. Definite generational change, it’s actually
really coming into effect now. Dunno, I just think it’s a cleaner,
better produced product.
Longtom: But is anyone watching, does anyone
care?
Deathstar: I think a lot of people are watching
but beyond the people who are watching no one gives a shit. Unless
something major happens like an 11-time world champ getting taken
down by an unknown from Lennox Head.
Longtom: Or a shark attack.
Deathstar: Or a shark attack.
I’m not a betting man, but you’d put Toledo in an unbackable
favourite. But if the most famous Kennedy from Lennox Head does get
up it’ll be the best time to surf the Point uncrowded: the party
will last for weeks and every surfer in the district will be
keeping European hours.
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Lily-livered: “The WSL a den of
sissies!”
By Chas Smith
The World Surf League tattles on BeachGrit!
We have just started the second day of a three
day sentence for posting World Surf League videos on our
BeachGrit Facebook (follow here!) and what a big bummer.
What a sad punishment. We can’t touch our social media, per
Facebook police rules. They lock it tight as a drum, meaning all of
our wonderful stories go unshared for three whole days. Oh they
ding you good for “copyright infringement.”
The unfortunate part is, we were following the very unclear WSL
rules as they related to posting content but they changed them,
quietly in the middle of the night, and sent Herr Zuckerberg’s
henchmen to our doorstep without warning and hauled us into the
concentration camp for three whole days.
I am bouncing a pebble off the wall right now and Derek is doing
push-ups.
And this ain’t the way we handle our business in the surfs, is
it? What happened to a good curse-filled yell? A punch to the
teeth? I get that WSL CEO Paul Speaker has never surfed a day in
his life but come now. Can’t we at least pretend to understand each
other?
My pebble has rolled underneath Derek’s metal cot and I am
playing Jailhouse Rock on a homemade harmonica. Derek has stopped
doing push-ups and is fashioning a shiv out of a toilet paper
roll.
I find litigiousness ugly in almost every circumstance. I find
tattling uglier. My first job after university was an ill-begotten
turn teaching 5th grade. I was a bad teacher but one thing I am
proud of was instilling the ideal “snitches get stitches” into each
and every young heart. If a child tattled about anything, the
tattler got the punishment. By the end of the year nobody tattled.
I either caught the kids being naughty myself or they found
solutions that didn’t involve the damned authorities.
Herr Zuckerberg’s henchmen are telling me that Jailhouse Rock is
copyrighted and have taken my harmonica away. Derek is doing
push-ups again.
It’s not like there are thousands or even hundreds or even tens
of surf websites. There are, like, seven so the pansy WSL image
folk could have very easily sent out an email saying, “Take the
shit down you fuckers…” and we would have complied. They also could
have waited for me to wander by and knocked my teeth in. Either
would have been preferable to their whiny crybaby tattle.
I have picked up Derek’s shiv and making small improvements.
Derek is whistling Happy Birthday because he says the courts just
turned over copyright protection on it and it now belongs to the
public.
Next time I see the WSL I am going give it stitches.
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Boycott: The Hideous Round 5!
By Chas Smith
Boycott I say! Show the World Surf League who's
boss (besides CEO Paul Speaker)!
It has been splashed across this website for
almost two years and other websites too. And probably magazines.
Etc. The losers’ Round 5 is for total losers and I don’t mean the
surfers in Round 5. I mean, I do. They lost in Round 4. But I
really mean the people who watch it.
Round 5 stretches World Surf League Championship Tour events a
whole 2 hrs. 2 hrs of maybe pristine swell. 2 hrs of life to watch
men who should have skunked off to drink in a lonely corner. What
pressure is there in Round 4? I’ll answer for you. None. Which, in
turn, makes Round 4 lame too because a “no losers round” is the
ultimate losers round!
And it is time to be done with it, with Round 5, or whichever
round is gumming up the works. This has been splashed across this
website for almost two years and other websites too. But the World
Surf League is not listening. CEO Paul Speaker has ABBA playing
full volume in his Walkman while he rollerblades around Santa
Monica in preparation for rollerblading around the Washington Redskins new
stadium.
So let us show them with our numbers! Forward this to all your
friends and tell them not to show up for Round 5. No logging in, no
favoriting WSL Tweets, no nothing. Being anti-stuff is working for
both Bernie Sanders and Donald Trump. It can work for us too!
Boycott Round 5!
P.S. Do you think CEO Paul Speaker subscribes to Google Alerts
and has to read every one of these stories because they are the
only ones that pop up featuring his name?
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Reynolds: “Despair in final moments!”
By Rory Parker
Is Dane Reynolds thinking about kicking his board
at the surfer dropping in? I would be…
Cameras everywhere! All the time. Once we
worried, “Big Brother is Watching!” who’d’ve thought the notion
would become obsolete?
Now it’s all about little brother, everyone’s taking pictures,
posting them online. Not a moment goes undocumented, everything’s a
matter of public record.
Which suits me fine, usually.
A few months back I beat up a homeless girl in the dead center
of the hustle and bustle of Waikiki, right on Ala Moana Bvd on a
gorgeous day jam packed with tourists. She had it coming, but for a
minute there I lived in terror of the thought that the scene would
end up on youtube, minus the lead in wherein she demanded money,
then slapped me in the ear I’d had operated on less than twenty
four hours previously.
If you’ve ever been cuffed in an ear that was recently cut off
and sewn back on you’ll know, that shit hurts really bad. And I
just saw red and went bananas, no conscious thought involved.
Still, I was, literally, about three times her size. I know it
wouldn’t have looked good.
Potential negative effects for myself aside, I adore the
ubiquity of the visual record. Especially when the camera is in the
hands of someone with talent.
A few months back I beat up a homeless girl in the dead center
of the hustle and bustle of Waikiki, right on Ala Moana Bvd on a
gorgeous day jam packed with tourists. She had it coming, but for a
minute there I lived in terror of the thought that the scene would
end up on youtube, minus the lead in wherein she demanded money,
then slapped me in the ear I’d had operated on less than twenty
four hours previously.
Such as Les Morales.
Les Morales is a skimboard killer, photographer extraordinaire,
owner of the world’s finest head of hair. Currently in Italy
chasing cyclists with camera in hand, he’s an honest to god photo
pro, in an era when every prosumer stooge is trying to lay claim to
the title. He also took the only good picture I
have of myself surfing, which earns him a special
place in my heart.
If you look real close you’ll see Les for a split second. That’s his
yellow camera, glimpsed for a moment while Mr Reynolds gets
stuffed. Les got the shot, and it’s a beaut! And he let us have it!
What a mensch!
The look of anguish on Dane’s face, so humanizing. Utter despair
in his final moments. Staring straight up at the offender, full
knowledge of what’s in store.
Is he thinking about kicking his board at the offender? I would
be.
Follow the links below for more Morales brilliance. Hire him,
give him money.