It's all fun and games until the ball lands on your
name...
The greatest ever of our artists died when they
hit twenty seven years of age. Kurt Cobain, Jimi Hendrix, Janis
Joplin, Jim Morrison, Basquiat, Brian Jones, etc. etc. etc.
It’s such a thing that universities do studies on the
likelihood of musicians dying at 27 and there is such thing as a 27
Forever Club.
And sad etc. etc. etc. but also these artists are the forever in
the stars because they died at 27. And were brilliant, too great
for us, smelled like teen spirit. So let us examine, in a cold
analytical light, which surfers would be better of in the 27
Forever Club.
Dane Reynolds: Obvs.
Craig Anderson: Ship has long sailed. And 27
would have been right at his Kandui Hypto ride. Legend forever!
Dion Agius: The mausoleum in Tasmania would be
a work of absolute art.
Creed McTaggart: Live fast, die at 27. Go go
go!
Noa Deane: There’s still hope.
Nat Young: Should have died when he was 12.
Chris Ward: Despite best attempts…
Adriano de Souza: He would never won that world
title and Kelly would have never made a wave pool.
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Kolohe/Nat Grab Nor-Cal by Pussy!
By Derek Rielly
Come see the young Californians squeeze living hell
out of a recent swell…
Great days, ain’t they? A Strong Man in
the White House, the endless entertainment of
an impeachment looming around every new
corner, a First Lady with a bank of
erotic photos, storms not seen in twenty
years lashing the City of Angels, snow pouring onto
mountains all over the world, a world surfing champion
everyone finally agrees on…
…and, surf, surf, surf! Great days!
We’re a little late to jump on the short Dream Bars by
filmmaker Perry Gershkow but it’s something you’ll like, if you
haven’t seen it already. It features the one-time WCT surfer Nat
Young and current world number four Kolohe Andino hitting
sand banks near the Californian city of Saint Frank.
It’s an interesting study. Do you remember when Nat soared
on the ratings while his pal Kolohe stammered and everyone said
he’d never make it but he persisted and now he looms as an
almost-title contender? The contrast between the two is marked.
Different stances, yeah, but while one jitterbugs and works himself
up into something of a panic on a wave, the other draws an almost
old fashioned line.
Who is who? Which is which? Watch!
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Film Review: Distance Between Dreams!
By Michael Ciaramella
Honesty ain't always brutal
Last night was the much-too-late SoCal premiere of Distance
Between Dreams, a Red Bull film about the trials and tribulations
of big wave surfing ft. Ian Walsh and co. Despite the movie’s
releases in November, December, and January, I had never seen it.
Below is an honest review.
When I was working for Surfing, I’d written that DBD could be
the surf movie that surpasses Step into Liquid in terms of mass
appeal. That concept was ill-conceived as it failed to recognize
how alienating the movie would be, in the sense that it gives no
hope to the average land-lubber. Instead of uplifting stories about
the Dale Websters of the world, DBD focuses on waves that most of
us would never fake a paddle at. Plus, this film lacks the one key
component to any true surf blockbuster: Laird!
I asked my girlfriend, a decent surfer but more of a lay-person
than not, her opinion of the film. She said she enjoyed but that
big waves aren’t really her thing, as it gets a little old watching
guys take the same drop over and over. “It’s probably the biggest
adrenaline rush in the world,” she explained, “but watching Jaws
second-hand gets monotonous.” Her favorite part of DBD was John
threading South Pacific tubes and delivering hacks meaner than a
drunk, machete-wielding, scorned Mexican lover.
But the Beach Grit community don’t pay no mind to the masses. We
are the bourgeoisie of the surf world… not financially of course
but in terms of self-importance! And in that spirit I, your humble
servant, deliver this report on the actual quality of Ian Walsh’s
film: it was pretty good (probably much better at La Paloma than it
would be in your cubicles of cynicism) but I’ll likely never watch
it again.
The movie is impressive in its production quality, but I’m not a
fan of the whole Redbull aesthetic (over-dramatization of peak
moments, complete with added wave-crashing audio and the like). Ian
Walsh was a wonderful protagonist, being that he is intelligent
(high school valedictorian!), handsome, driven and an exceptional
talent. The accompanying cast includes a laundry list of the best
big wave surfers in the world, Ian’s affable flock of brothers, and
John Florence. On paper it’s an easy success, but I do side with my
girlfriend in that there’s only so much Peahi a person can
take.
This is no criticism of Ian or Shane or Greg’s ability and
drive. These guys are genuine role models in and out of the water,
and I have a surplus of respect for everything they do. But while
the movie is well-made and their surfing very brave, that stink-bug
stance really drags you down after a while.
After the film I escaped through a side door and found Ian in
conversation with a faceless Redbull teamer. I shook Ian’s hand and
told him “good job” because he deserved it. In return I received a
firm grip and a heartfelt, eye-contacted “thank you”. Despite
having the world wrapped around his finger and Red Bull dollars
coming out of his ears, Ian appears to be a good guy with valiant
intentions. Although it wasn’t my favorite film, Distance Between
Dreams brings useful insight to two wonderful surf families: the
genetically-bound Walshes and the bloodless but nonetheless
impermeable big wave brothers.
It’s worth a watch, if only once.
Here’s the trailer!
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Gone: When The Search came to Barra!
By Derek Rielly
Every single wave exposed on film becomes a surf
ghetto. True or true?
How about this absolute truth? Every
single wave revealed for the first time on film has become a
surf ghetto. Don’t matter how good you hide where it is. No
exceptions.
Count ’em: Bali. The Mentawais. Namibia. Hossegor. Morocco.
Fiji. Puerto Escondido. Overrun with sonsofbitches in their
so-called “camps” with nothing else to talk about except waves
ridden, how many seconds behind the curtin they’re logging and
where their next tubefest is going to be.
You show a good wave. People are gonna find it.
So any sort of concern that Mick’s empty sandbottom point,
which blew up three days ago, might
get exposed is a dazzling naivety.
First, the explorers will come. Then, the tour guides. Then, you
and me.
Watching the lights flash all over that empty point reminded me
of another wave The Search illuminated. Do you remember
when The Rip Curl Search Pro went to Barra de la Cruz or, as
it was coyly named, “La Jolla”, in 2006?
It was the surf contest that affirmed everything good about the
game. An impossibly perfect sandbottom point most people had no
idea existed. Professionals who’d been everywhere calling it the
best wave they’d ever surfed, the best contest ever. Best-evers
dripping through the floor. Andy Irons, who won the event, nailing
the biggest frontside air in competition. The longest tubes seen in
an event since Kirra was a thing.
The world watched the live webcast with mouths agape.
The contest rewrote the expectation of what a perfect wave
might look like. It’s doubtful there was a regular footer on earth
who didn’t make kind of vague plan to ride the joint before they
expired.
And, soon, the crowds arrive at the little town mid-way between
Puerto Escondido and Salina Cruz. The council built a cabana and
bathrooms on the beach for the influx of visitors. The coastal road
was gated and an entry fee levied.
Tourism. Jobs. Money. Who could argue with the capitalist ideal
of the free market bringing wealth to the poor?
Citizens were becoming proud of their little town. The beach
cabaña evolved into a symbol of their new economy. So when not long
after the contest the historically wild river mouth that emptied
near the point began to threaten the cabaña with erosion, Barra’s
council decided to move the entire river to the east. According to
a local surfer named Cesar, this is when sand began to disappear
from the break. The river, Cesar indicated in hindsight, was the
source of the wave’s magic. Without a periodic infusion of river
sand, a hole soon began to develop in the sandbar. A tropical
cyclone exacerbated the situation, and by 2010 the most phenomenal
sand point the pro tour had ever seen was a shadow of its former
self.
The town council, meanwhile, citing the prohibitive expense
of the cabaña, refused to return the river to its original
course.
Visiting surfers would show up, take a look at the wounded
pointbreak, and head down to the newest surf-world hotspot: Salina
Cruz.
Tourism business disappeared as steadily as the
sand.
A wave found. A wave celebrated. A wave ruined.
Where to, you think, for Mick’s Point?
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George: “Fanning didn’t discover
shit!”
By Chas Smith
Lost legend Sam George returns to the ring!
Mick Fanning’s gorgeous wave has been my
favorite surf development of the week. Maybe even my favorite surf
development of the month. Not only was the video dreamy, not only
did it spark such wonderful visions in such generally pessimistic
times, not only did it create some fine debate but it also midwifed
some wonderful surf writing!
Every time this happens, I think, “That has to be the last
one.” At this point, with surfers everywhere and Google Maps and
cameras in every pocket, I can’t believe this waves keep turning
up. How many more? I guess, like you say, if they’re ephemeral,
then unlimited. Best wave in the world today, closeout next month.
And vice versa.
…but then Sam George. THE Sam George came out of the woodwork
and threw down! He punched Matt Warshaw right in the mouth! Let’s
read from Surfline!
Now what does this tale of cinematic license have to do with
the estimable Matt Warshaw’s very transparent case of head-high,
sand-bottom tube envy? Simply this: Fanning’s “discovery” is no
discovery at all. As in virtually every single case of surf spot
outing, no contracted film crew accompanied by a professional
surfer has ever discovered an epic new wave.