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Dane Reynolds makes a late-stage cameo in the film, providing enthusiastic back-up vocals on the song Piss In My Mouth.

Watch: Mag makes best surf film of 2017!

Watch, and hear, Dane Reynolds sing Piss In My Mouth!

In case you’re not aware, Vaughan Blakey is the deeply talented older brother of the WSL commentator Ronnie. He is also the co-frontman, alongside Ozzie Wright, of the band, Goons of Doom, and makes a living as the editor of the Australian magazine, Surfing World.

Recently, Vaughan, in his position as editor, and along with Danny Johnson who is the art director of the magazine, created a movie called Scary Good. It is Vaughan’s secret major feature, and his first since Doped Youth in 2004.

Could Doped Youth be improved upon?

It’s been almost a decade-and-a-half but Vaughan, and Mr Johnson, have made a movie so good it left me gasping like a fish. Watching Scary Good I was unable to feel the usual emotions of envy and jealousy because it was a creation beyond anything I could’ve made.

The scenario is simple: bring musically inclined surfers, along with a producer and actual band people, to a remote beach house. Make music. Make surf.

It costs eight dollars to buy (link at the bottom), which feels too cheap.

Note: it is the first movie I’ve  bought since Kai Neville’s Cluster a year or two ago.

Yesterday, I spoke with Vaughan about the film.

BeachGrit: Whose idea?

Vaughan: I guess it was my idea, but the genius of the movie is all Danny Johnson. He was the poor bastard who spent three months locked in a room cutting the thing up. Full freak effort. Concept-wise it was a bit of a carry-on from movies and styles the both of us have always loved. Real Axe and Nix Nic Nooley and all Toby Cregan’s clips capture such a rad rawness. Andrew Kidman has always scored his own movies like Litmus and Glass Love, and then with Doped Youth we had no budget for music so we made up a fair bit of that soundtrack ourselves or asked our friends who were bands to give us music. But we were definitely amped to see if we could do it all in one surf trip, surf and score, which I’m pretty sure hadn’t been done. So we got the house, fitted it out with a recording studio, invited everyone we knew who could play Smoke on the Water on one guitar string and prayed for waves and in the end it turned out so much better than we could have hoped for. When I sent the final movie to Taylor Steele I told him it was a bit like Shelter but with a house full of roaring drunk, foul mouthed Aussies.

We got fucking death threats just for being in that zone. One day the guy behind the counter at the servo says, “Are you part of that surf mag trip? There was a mob in here earlier threatening to come up the house and bash you guys. You better watch out.” I gave him the address and told him to send ’em up but our crew never got challenged by anyone face-to-face the whole time.

BeachGrit: Tell me how you were received by local surfers? Were they pleased to have such a cultural awakening in their little, and let’s just say…nameless… town?

We were there for 10 days and mate we got fucking death threats just for being in that zone. I went to the servo down the road one day and the guy behind the counter says, “Are you part of that surf mag trip? There was a mob in here earlier threatening to come up the house and bash you guys. You better watch out.” I gave him the address and told him to send ’em up but our crew never got challenged by anyone face-to-face the whole time. We surfed all the worst waves on the best days and didn’t blow out a single spot so… fuck it. We did have around 75 people swing by the house though, including heaps of friendly locals which was the sickest. Crew came and went, musos, celebrities, full mixed bag, but we really built the whole week around Wash – Creed, Ellis and Beau’s band, cause fuck man, they have so much muscle in the surf and with their music and they’re the best lads you’ll ever meet to boot.

You were right about Creed. He is an animal! And his song, Johnny is a Kung Fu Master, sings!

Candy is the most magic human. Big heart, beautiful brain, interested in everyone and everything, loves his music, sounds like Barry White and surfs like Black Dynamite.

I like this exchange in the film. 

Creed: How ya feeling?

Beau: Pretty shit.

Creed: A few comedowns in the morning.

Beau: So weird. I feel so weird.

Creed: I’m real…lost… right now.

Beau: I feel like such a loser.

Creed: Fuck, I don’t know, ay. I felt all sad all of a sudden and now I’m just walking around…

It all feels very real. Was that scripted?

One hundred percent legit. We did do a couple of skits like Asher Wales on the bongo but most of them ended up getting cut. We had mics on crew at different times during the days and nights and most of what you see is exactly as it happened. The drinking, smoking and swearing like motherfuckers, it’s just what kids do in that tiny little window of their lives when they get to enjoy complete freedom and that obviously comes with a few downtimes, especially after 10 days of ripping in. It wasn’t for us to judge or censor or edit that stuff. Our only goal was to make sure we had sick songs and that the energy of the week was represented as accurately as possible in the final cut because it was one of the best times I’ve ever had on a surf trip and a big part of that was because everyone was so comfortable and free to be themselves. Not a single surfer missed an early either. Not once.

How about the big left! Tell me more. Haz Bryant was very sad afterwards with his sore head.

That was day one. Hazza (Harry Bryant) and Otto (Kai Otton) were onto it cause they spend a lot of time down there but everyone else was just settling in. My favourite thing about that session is how stoked Hazza is on his big boned air off the back of the wave. Gets a 10-foot pit and smashes his head on a rock but he’s more pumped on tweaking his throwaway! And the Wash song is a banger.

Who did the Sex with a Guy song? It’s brilliant! Sexing for hours!

That was the first song recorded. It’s by a dude named Josh Rawai and he is a messed up totally awesome guitarist. They tracked that on the first night, pretty much took over the studio. But we weren’t there for great musos to play. We were there to see if the surfers we’d invited could make a half-decent album, so that was Josh’s only contribution at the house. He nailed it though.

The Former boys came up late and were on the biggest Bubbler crusade. Drawing dicks weeing into mouths in the dirt on all the car windscreens and stuff. It was the theme of the night but pretty sure nobody actually went there.

Did you ever think you’d have Dane Reynolds singing, “Piss in my mouth!”

It’s funny the things you say after a couple of beers. That was the one big blow-out night of the whole trip and I remember saying to Dane “Mate everyone I know with twins looks so tired all the time!” Ha! The girls weren’t even born yet. That was a big party though. The Former boys came up late and were on the biggest Bubbler crusade. Drawing dicks weeing into mouths in the dirt on all the car windscreens and stuff. It was the theme of the night but pretty sure nobody actually went there.

I loved the song Set the Bar Low to Achieve your Goals too. Did you?

Sooo much. That’s Vinnie. What a legend. You should see his band The Cloacas. Wild little teenage muscle-men from the Sunny Coast. Bowl cuts, mohawks and they play in boardies with no shirts on and no tatts! Jake Vincent and his sister Jaleesa are the surprise stars of the movie. Sick surfers, super free-spirited, kind and enthusiastic and wild without being reckless. Dunno, there’s something about the generation of kids between 18 and 25 right now that is so upbeat and refreshing. They honestly don’t seem to care that people might get offended by the way they choose to have fun. Such a healthy way to live. People getting offended is the new cancer.

The comedic opening is clever, very dry. Scripted or no?

Crafted but not scripted. We wanted to start with a bit of banter with Creedo and Beauy, all them by the way, and then out of nowhere drop in a full blown, full frame dick shot, make it known right from the start this is not a kid’s movie and not a movie that’s been made with any consideration of the easily offended. We kinda only got halfway there with the opening shot but the energy of it is all real, the whole movie is just how it all happened. And the soundtrack blows my mind.

Who is that little ragamuffin with the blond bowl, real mouthy? She surfs so good.

Jaleesa Vincent from the Sunny Coast. That zone is the punk rock capital of Australia right now man and Jelly Bean is gonna change women’s surfing. She’ll be the first of her kind in the same spirit as Fletcher/Ozzie/Dane, a full creative culture shifter built upon a foundation of fully ripping.

I think, best surfer movie, as in cultural document, since Cluster. Tell me your thoughts.

Around day eight of the trip Danny and I kinda grabbed each other and had this full-on lightning bolt moment. I was like “Fuck man, it’s like we’re making Morning of the Earth or some shit!” It felt like we were capturing something way bigger than the film itself. Don’t get me wrong, a huge stupid call and we were drunk as hell, but at its heart Morning of the Earth is a document that captures perfectly the counter-culture mood of its time by showcasing the lifestyle choices the surfers were becoming passionate about. That’s what it felt like we were doing, only instead of Simple Ben and free range chickens and veggie gardens we had Battle of the Bowls, cartons of mangoes and packets of Champion Ruby. I dunno how this thing will stand up over time, but I can definitely sleep at night knowing it’s as real as shit gets in the age of “authenticity” being the most flayed word in the English language.

SCARY GO


The shark expert and filmmaker David Riggs told Perth Now that Esperance "is the latest White shark hotspot (to be) recognised on the planet,” he said. "Before we had dropped anchor we had six 15-foot Great Whites pushing our boat around. It’s full-on."

Here: The Great White Shark Vigilantes!

"Someone is going to die and that’s the unfortunate reality of it."

Ain’t no fun when your town becomes, of all a sudden, the “Isle of Jaws.” Esperance is a pretty, and let’s face it until recently pretty dull, town seven hundred clicks south-east of the Western Australian capital, Perth.

In April, the seventeen-year-old surfer Laeticia Brouwer was attacked and killed by a Great White shark in front of her family while surfing at an Esperance beach.

“It’s severely hectic down here and someone is going to die and that’s the unfortunate reality of it,” Esperance Ocean Safety and Support Group leader Mitch Capelli told Perth Now

According to reports, Esperance fishermen are baiting and killing Great Whites because of a lack of government action. Fishermen hooked a feisty ten-footer that had been filmed biting and bumping boats on three different days.

“A lot of people have been calling me up and saying, ‘Let’s just go out and catch it because no one else is going to do it’. I’ve really been strongly advising against it because if we’re going to be taken seriously then we need to be … going about things the right way,” says Capelli.

The shark expert and filmmaker David Riggs told Perth Now that Esperance “is the latest White shark hotspot (to be) recognised on the planet. Before we had dropped anchor we had six 15-foot Great Whites pushing our boat around. It’s full-on.”

The Great White is a protected species, of course. And the law’s gonna come down on anyone who rolls back to the dock with a dead White on the deck.

So what sorta heat y’gonna get if you ice a White?

First offence. Ten gees.


Professional surfer Chas Smith (pictured) doing his patented down the line backside move in Yemen 2002.
Professional surfer Chas Smith (pictured) doing his patented down the line backside move in Yemen 2002.

Congrats: Chas Smith becomes pro surfer!

A major career move!

I would like you to take a few minutes this morning to congratulate me on becoming a professional surfer. Thanks! It has been an incredible run from surf journalist to professional surfer, one that I never quite thought I’d make.

And how did I become a professional surfer? Oh. I just decided and let me walk you through the process.

The kind people who run the Building the Revolution Instagram account messaged me the other day with a question:

How easy is it to become a pro surfer? Skaters, wakeboarders and snowboarders have to have a company think they are worthy enough for a pro model. Pro team sports athletes need to be picked for a team. Golfers need to be on tour. Surfers? Who decides if a surfer gets pro status.

And this really got me thinking. I know how difficult it is for skaters and snowboarders to go pro. As stated, it is your board company who “takes you pro” and you must jump though many hoops and even very talented kids never get “pro” status.

As things happen, I was chewing on this when I bumped into a very famous surf agent in the grocery store. After exchanging pleasantries I asked, “Is there any formal requirement to become a pro surfer?” He answered, “As long as a kid makes 100 bucks surfing, he’s a pro as far as I’m concerned…”

I have never made a 100 bucks surfing but I am riding a tester board right now from the gorgeous Album Surfboards in San Clemente and I bet if I ask they will give me a t-shirt and a sticker.

Which makes me pro.

A pro surfer. I probably won’t do the tour or be a video pro or a travel pro. I’ll probably be a writing pro, writing about my experiences pro surfing n stuff.

So long surf journalism. You were always only second best.


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Can you imagine the spiny stories John John's gonna be telling in twenty years? | Photo: @surfroast

Quiz: What was your greatest surf moment?

Come to daddy and tell a little surf story.

One thing about surfing: to know it is not necessarily to love it.

With the possible exception of golf, there ain’t a game as able to deftly erase a man’s esteem, confidence, identity and sense of athleticism like surf.

How many times a week do you surf? Once, twice, every day?

All those sessions over all those years. The bad, the very bad, the ok, the sorta ok, the kinda good. Onshore, onshore, a little wind swell here and there.

Around it goes until…

Those moments.

I estimate that I’ve surfed 3640 times, each session around an hour long.

And isn’t it just surf to think, how many of those precious moments have I gathered, how many waves do I remember?

I’ve got a handful: surfing a wavepool at midnight under a full moon in the Canary Islands, dropping in on a pal and landing one of the five straight airs of my life, a tube in front of Little Groyne Kirra that was clocked by a former top five pro surfer who told me, on the beach, he thought I was dead.

And, another tow moment, a ten-foot day at a Sydney reef near Narrabeen.

Bigger than anything I wanna be near or, given my big-wave experience, anything I should be near.

I let go, the wave throws and all I want to do is straighten out.

It’s too big, too round, requires too much commitment.

But I don’t want to be cleaved in two by the lip either.

With legs that are quivering and a feeling of such aloneness that I might actually cry, I turn into the tube. It throws further than anything I’ve ever seen. I’m screaming and my arms are thrown instinctively above my head. I fly into the channel, pumping my fist in the air like an alt-right hooligan. My two buddies on the ski are nowhere, gone hunting peaks around the headland.

All that drama, and such a potential story, without a witness? Can you imagine the desolation?

And after all those sessions? Travel? Money spent, time squandered? That’s all I got? One shit story?

And you?

All your sessions? All your travels?

What do you remember?


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HR connects one satisfying word with his time back in the waves: “Happiness.” | Photo: Photo courtesy HR

Long Read: Surf Saves Bad Brains Frontman!

Ocean gives punk icon HR an anti-depressive lift!

HR strolled into the grand lobby of the Lord Baltimore hotel where he was awaiting the premiere of Finding Joseph I, the story of his rise, struggle, and return to Jamaican waters.

Selfishly, I wanted him to jump up onto the glass coffee table, unleash a desperate roar, then spring into a perfect backflip.

But HR, leader of the pioneering punk rock group Bad Brains is not this person. His gait is measured and at times uncertain. His words are few and gently drift out of a small sixty-one-year-old frame. He is fragile.

Yet somewhere in this man exists a history of all of us who heard his voice screaming inside our heads as we furiously paddled: CHARGE! It’s no coincidence that Bad Brains’ anthems brought life to countless surf videos; HR knows the ocean and its power.

HR still retains a bit of the unique style that attracted so many kids to him, his music, and his Positive Mental Attitude, or PMA, over the last four decades.  Reclining in a silver Adidas track suit with matching shoes, Rasta-colored knit hat and fat gold watch — clasped outside of the sleeve, of course—  he opens up.

But HR doesn’t share much about the watch, the music or the PMA. He talks about his first memories of swimming on the shores of Jamaica and playing in the waves of Hawaii.

He wants to talk about the ocean.

“When I was a boy living in Waikiki, I once dove into the water after a sailboat anchored way in the distance. I thought I could make it there underwater but quickly realized that I was drowning. I was too far from that boat and too far from shore,” he says.  “Then I see my father dive in.”

HR closes his eyes and smiles. “He saved my life.”

Growing up on the beaches of Hawaii gave HR (Human Rights), born Paul Hudson, the opportunity to develop an intimate relationship with the water. He and brother Earl (also Bad Brains’ drummer) wanted to imitate the surfers they saw and idolized including the Duke, whom HR declares as his favorite.

The two boys shaped primitive skim boards with their father’s tools in the garage and spend their days throwing themselves into the shore break.

“They worked really good,” he explains as his eyes light up. “But, you know, it depended on who was riding them.”

HR laughs, a modest nod to his skills.

As HR entered adolescence, his father, an Air Force employee, began a string of short-term reassignments which removed the family from idyllic Hawaii to such inland locations as Texas, Alabama, and the New York City. While HR was no longer close to the ocean, his passion for the water remained. Settling in, HR joined his school’s diving team.

“I loved to dive.  That’s where I learned to flip and I never stopped,” HR says referring to the lightning-powered acrobatics that would soon help define his onstage charisma. He excelled so rapidly that his school coach offered to train him for an Olympic bid.

“The coach asked my mom what she thought about me moving away to work with the Junior Olympic team,” HR recalls.  “But she wasn’t havin’ it. I wanted it, but she said, ‘no way.’”

His mother knew that another reassignment was approaching. This time, HR would land in Washington, DC, home of the President and birthplace of the young Bad Brains.

And then came the music.

Album after furious album.

Touring and notoriety.

Madonna and her Maverick record label came calling.

Chris Blackwell, owner of Island Records, petitioned HR to play Bob Marley in an official bio-pic. There’s even an intriguing photo of a Cheshire-grinned HR aside a woman —curiously resembling Brooke Shields — drawing in a big lungful of something.

All the supposed glory of a rock star was within reach.

But HR wasn’t interested in money or fame.

While living in North San Diego County in the late 1990’s, HR was once again drawn to the water and rediscovered his habit of watching local surfers, the same routine as on the shores of Waikiki. Friends also claimed that around this time he also developed other, less-healthy habits.

As the rest of us moved on to middle-class prizes, he remained true to his words: “The bourgeoisie had better watch out for me,” HR sang.

What money he had, he spent or gave away. He rarely held a permanent address, bouncing from home to the street and on to the next, ping-ponging between the east coast and California.

While living in North San Diego County in the late 1990’s, HR was once again drawn to the water and rediscovered his habit of watching local surfers, the same routine as on the shores of Waikiki. Friends also claimed that around this time he also developed other, less-healthy habits.

There were stories and rumors. HR smokes crack. HR just plays games. HR is crazy. During his most troubled times, he could be seen shuffling around the streets costumed in a platinum-blond wig, gold slippers, flowing white bathrobe over a electric-green Adidas track suit, an acoustic guitar dragging behind him. A genuine tinfoil on-the-head departure from reality. An overwrought English accent layered his ravings about Princess Diana or Barack Obama possibly tapping his phone.

Like in the waters of Waikiki, HR once again needed saving.

In 2010, independent film-maker James Lathos learned that HR was sleeping in a boarded-up warehouse in downtown Baltimore.

“He was just surviving,” says Lathos. “It was not a healthy place.”

Lathos realized that he had an opportunity to do more than simply document the downfall of one of rock’s most mythical figures, he had the chance to bring him to the surface.

Lathos, a surfer, thought quickly.

“I had to get him out of the urban ghetto. So what better place than the ocean?”

After securing the needed funds, the two traveled to Jamaica with a small crew to capture HR’s return to the waters where he first played.

“It was therapy,” says Lathos.  “It’s a heavy burden to be him… to see him diving off the cliffs and swimming in the ocean was everything. You could see his spirit open. He felt free again.”

HR connects one satisfying word with his time back in the waves: “Happiness.”

And when I ask him if he attempted a backflip, HR replies, “No, I just dove straight down… but this time I came back up.”

It was his start to recovery.

Some things are better described than defined, and mental illness might be such a thing. The Jamaican trip may have been the spark for HR to seek medical help for his deteriorating mental state. Doctors found he displayed symptoms characteristic of schizophrenia. They also diagnosed him with SUNCT, a rare brain condition which causes debilitating and constant “icepick” headaches. Fortunately, doctors have been able to address both conditions.

Yet, this does not underscore the power of his ocean homecoming.

As Lathos saw it, “He was off the hellhole streets and happy, man. It was redemption.”

Lathos also sees a bigger picture. “I’m glad I could help my friend and if this movie, which shows HR’s struggles with mental illness, can help even three people, it’s worth it.”  But the director-surfer digresses. “Of course, any chance to get in the water in Jamaica is worth it, too!”

Currently, HR is working with his Bad Brains bandmates on more material, ready to deliver the message of PMA to a new generation of kids charging into waves.  In Finding Joseph I, HR confesses, “I was given a responsibility to be a leader, but I also had to be a human being” — a balance which might finally be reclaimed.