Hero: Man abandons plans for condominium project to protect famous surf spot!

What a mad, mad, mad, mad world!

And how many stories of abject greed have we shared since humble little BeachGrit launched all those years ago? Ten? Twenty? More than twenty? Stories of grouchy usually elderly and their cock-blocking driveways or Facebook founder Mark Zuckerberg and his evil gated properties.

It is with much wonder and joy in my heart, then, that I present today’s piece starring a benevolent man in Hawaii who forwent construction of a condominium on Hawaii’s Big Island in order to protect the famous spot Banyans and let’s read about him in Honolulu’s Star-Advertiser as soon as we wipe the tears from our disbelieving eyes.

West Hawaii Today reported today that the landowner has agreed to work toward building a public space rather than the proposed five-story residence near the Banyans.

The Banyans is a popular surfing spot on the north side of Holualoa Bay.

Property owner Kilohana Makai LLC met in a second mediation session Monday with people involved in a case challenging plans for the condominium.

A spokesman says Kilohana Makai will work over the next year to 15 months to convert the 14,450-square-foot (1,342-square-meter) lot on the Big Island into a community space.

Officials say Hawaii County could buy the property via a commission that maintains a list of properties considered “worthy of preservation.”

Can you believe? In the middle of the Me First Generation?

Wait, what generations are alive right now? We have a few of the Greatest Generation Ever, too many Baby Boomers, Generation X, Generation Y, Millennials and… what else?

Which is your favorite?

Also, you’ve seen the above meme one thousand times, right? Did you know who it is? I just found out and it SHOCKED me even more than the idea of a benevolent property developer.

What a mad, mad, mad, mad world!

Ain't J-Bay pretty. | Photo: WSL

Open thread, comment live: Round of 32 at Corona J-Bay Open!

Come into our tent. Wet and loosen your lips…

Yeah, sorry about Disqus being yanked down around our ankles three nights ago.

One of the networks serving those stupid ads that at least a hundred thousand of you devils are clicking on every month (Married teacher screams as she’s jailed for affair with student, aged 12 etc) , decided to introduce infinite scrolling into its code without a call, a mail, whatever.

It ain’t going to happen today, tonight, in whatever time zone you occupy. Bulletproof-ish.

Today, the newly anointed round of 32, formerly round three and the first time we see a bulk of surfers ejected from the event.

Can you believe there’s been sixteen heats, for a total of eight hours of surfing, and only four competitors have been sent home?

Now we get real.

Sixteen heats for sixteen losers.

I’ve got a cheap wine poured over ice. And plenty to refill.

Men’s Round of 32 Matchups:
Heat 1: Jordy Smith (ZAF) vs. Soli Bailey (AUS)
Heat 2: Owen Wright (AUS) vs. Joan Duru (FRA)
Heat 3: Gabriel Medina (BRA) vs. Griffin Colapinto (USA)
Heat 4: Ryan Callinan (AUS) vs. Yago Dora (BRA)
Heat 5: Kolohe Andino (USA) vs. Adriano de Souza (BRA)
Heat 6: Jeremy Flores (FRA) vs. Deivid Silva (BRA)
Heat 7: Julian Wilson (AUS) vs. Ezekiel Lau (HAW)
Heat 8: Conner Coffin (USA) vs. Adrian Buchan (AUS)
Heat 9: Filipe Toledo (BRA) vs. Michael February (ZAF)
Heat 10: Michael Rodrigues (BRA) vs. Willian Cardoso (BRA)
Heat 11: Wade Carmichael (AUS) vs. Sebastian Zietz (HAW)
Heat 12: Michel Bourez (FRA) vs. Ricardo Christie (NZL)
Heat 13: Kanoa Igarashi (JPN) vs. Frederico Morais (PRT)
Heat 14: Seth Moniz (HAW) vs. Peterson Crisanto (BRA)
Heat 15: Kelly Slater (USA) vs. Caio Ibelli (BRA)
Heat 16: Italo Ferreira (BRA) vs. Jack Freestone (AUS)

Watch live here.

Fat and hopeless but, thanks to surfing, able to love himself again! | Photo: The Daily Beast

Lessons from a VAL: “How learning to surf taught me to love myself”

What mysteries unfurl when you go shred?

It is impossible, I think, to preserve a neutral attitude towards the Vulnerable Adult Learner surfer. You either hate and burn intolerance or you are one.

Earlier, a BeachGrit reader forwarded a story about a pop-journalist VAL in Costa Rica who writes of his profound experiences with surfing. The story appears  on the Tina Brown-created news site The Daily Beast, an odd place that was once howled down by the Taliban for its inaccuracies.

Todd Plummer is an ordinary man, a “built-for-comfort-not-for-speed travel writer from Boston.” He has, in the course of his reporting, been “heli-skiing, walking with wolves, biking across the Scottish Highlands, falconry, and ice-climbing.”

Surfing in Costa Rica was his next challenge, which as the title of his story suggests, delivers multiple enlightenments.

I soon learned that my favorite part of the experience was sitting in the lineup of surfers waiting to catch waves. If nothing else came from that lesson with Matos, I learned how to properly sit up on my longboard in the water. Of course there were a few flips and falls, times when I would accidentally gyrate my way off the board and fall into the water with legs akimbo, but the most gratifying part of the day was socializing with the other surfers and learning their stories. There was a retired fashion executive from New York who moved to the area so he could surf every day.


Towards the end of my lesson, as if out of my dreams, a total hunk paddled by—the quintessential surfer dude, with tousled hair and washboard abs. Without even so much as saying hello, he gave me some advice. 

“Dude, I’ve been watching you. Everything you’re thinking, you gotta leave it on the shore,” he said. “It’s all mental, it’s all in your head.”


I still do not know much about surfing, but this I know for sure: it can’t be told, it must be felt. The confidence and balance it takes to surf is not a one-two-three-step instruction, but comes from within. It’s about learning to feel the waves and to find your center on the board. Passing judgment on yourself is not going to make you a better surfer—leaving your insecurities on the shore is.

And, of course, because a story like this without a pithy ending is like a massage without your paper underpants being yanked down and your eyeballs rolling back in your head like marbles,

When I got back from Costa Rica and excitedly texted a travel writer friend who surfs that I recently “learned how to surf,” she corrected me. 

“Todd, you are still learning. A true surfer knows he never has fully learned.”

Read the story here.

Question: what has surfing taught you?

To love yourself?

That life ain’t fair?

That the meek will be eaten alive?

That there isn’t a better way to distribute precious resources than through a meritocracy?

NZ is OK and gets the Kelly Slater credibility stamp. (Photo: the iconic Steve Sherman)
NZ is OK and gets the Kelly Slater credibility stamp. (Photo: the iconic Steve Sherman) | Photo: WSL

Kelly Slater erupts: “There are 30 guys on tour rated lower than me. Go talk to them!”

"What’s embarrassing? Why the shade?"

Kelly Slater is a modern marvel, a wonder, a famous man willing to mingle with the lesser-thans. An iconic man happy to engage nobodies. And if you happen to follow Mick Fanning’s engaging Instagram account you can get your hooks in.


Oh, Mick Fanning, two or three time World Champ (I can’t remember) posted an homage to J-Bay today, a beautiful turn underneath a rainbow sky. The comments, as you’d expect, were effusive with praise.


“Always gonna be one of my favorites…”

“Best to ever do it…”

“Gorgeous shot…”


But St. Christopher1, the patron saint of surfers, was less charitable, writing, “Just go surfing. Comps suck. @kellyslater is embarrassing and should of bowed out many moons ago!”

Well, Kelly came swinging in within minutes, asking for clarification, “what’s embarrassing? Why the shade?”

After getting hammered for a few hours St. Christoper1 backed right down and replied, “I apologise @kellyslater. It is confounding how these young men on tour have no financial backing they struggle. My point is that you have nothing to prove. You are a wonderful human. No question. In my opinion only without prejudice is that it could be time to allow a young man to be gifted his dream of being on tour and the tour to support them financially mandatory.”

Kelly’s final retort? “What makes you think I’m doing this to prove anything? I’m just having fun with it. And why should anyone be implored to give up a spot to anyone who hasn’t earned it? There are 30 guys on tour rated lower than me. Go talk to them.”

Then used his now famous lecherous emoji face.

So, if you “threw shade” on Kelly and he responded would you back down straight away?

And do you wish the man would step away and let some kid have a shot?

I don’t. When Kelly leaves for the final time I’ll roll my wheelchair onto the porch of the old folk’s home, where my child has sent me, and weep.

Watch: Hawaiian boat captain skirts disaster with deck full of tourists!

The Miracle at Ala Moana!

I don’t know what your greatest fears are but one of mine is certainly losing control of a large sailboat in a pumping surf chock-a-block with Hawaiian surfers. Oh the absolute white-knuckle terror. The complete and enveloping horror.

Years ago I thought that only complete amateurs and/or drunks lost control of their boats near shore but then I started sailing, a bit, and realized how easily things can go pear-shaped and by “things” I mean everything and anything. Literally everything and anything.

And so when I saw a video of a large sailboat in pumping surf chock-a-block with Hawaiian surfers, recently, my heart jumped into my throat. The boat was trying to make its way into Ala Moana harbor there on Oahu’s south shore but, as you can see by the waves, it was a big day.

I imagined the worst, of course. That the boat would capsize, hit a few surfers, kill a few passengers, catch cracks on the beach afterward etc. but watch how the captain navigates and surfs right into the harbor mouth. It is the very first time in my life that I have wondered if there is some value in learning to SUP. If the knowledge of guiding an obese vessel through waves might have some proper value.

The best part of the video may be the narration of surf cinematographer Bruno Lemos. I think the World Surf League should call him up to the booth straight away. I think we’d all be very thankful.