Oh to be 26 again!
And now that the U.S. Open of Surfing has drawn to a close we can reminisce together about all the good times that were. All the moments we shared under that Huntington Beach sun, delicate silicon filling lungs.
Oh, not my lungs. As you know, I was in Copenhagen all week and am now headed to Paris, the City of Light.
My flight is at an eye-bleedingly early hour but I did get to read Derek Rielly’s quintessential contest wrap. Perfect in every way.
He covered the most important bits, like who won (Yago Dora) and who really won, surpassing Joltin’ Joe Turpel, ‘89 World Champ Martin “Pottz” Potter and one Ronald Blakey as the “voice of surf,” Chris Cote.
Chris deserves the honor very much and the piece in the Los Angeles Times only briefly deals with his early socio-linguistic work in the “bro” field.
A winner that Derek Rielly left out of his wrap, though, was Kai Lenny who was inducted into the Surfing Hall of Fame alongside Steve Hawk and Janice Aragon.
The Orange County Register reports:
Lenny, at 26, received an early induction into the Hall of Fame. But, already, he has a list of accomplishments that have people calling him the best waterman that has ever lived.
Father Martin Lenny talked about how his son was restless as a young boy with a lot of energy to burn – so they took him to the beach every day to run around the sand and swim in the warm Maui waters.
“When he learned how to surf, he had been in the shorebreak, getting clobbered, and would just go back for more,’ he said.
Etc.
Deserving and all true but, let’s be very honest together. Let’s really speak the truth. Doesn’t 26 seem like a crazy early induction? Like, shouldn’t Hall of Fame-style stuff be left for the twilight of a career when those invited can look back upon years and years of accomplishments and reminisce together just like we are doing right now about the U.S. Open of Surfing?
Hmmm.
I think so.
I think this early induction business is a sham and a grave sin against Miki Dora and Barry Bonds but what do you think?
Are you furious?
I hear what you are saying but I think he had a lot more to do with the pulling of the strings – especially in the years before they went public. They did not shy away from making a fast buck. As evidenced by your Rip Curl visit, sadly.
The Chinese do head and a half by accident??
I love him in this scene from “Back to School”
THE TRIPLE LINDY
https://m.youtube.com/watch…
Are you kiddin’ ?
When I was your age I’d lug 50 lbs of ice up five, six flights of stairs..
The comparison to Rodney–in the sense it seems they can get no real respect? Kinda seems to fit to me……
I shoulda yelled two!
I must be pretty ignorant.
What is a Hall of Fame?
It’s just inside past the Vestibule of Irrelevance, but more marketable. Oh, and the bathroom is there on the right if you need it. Don’t mind the cat-sick. The industry keeps meaning to clean it up, but, ya know. Life’s too short.
good times
Well, you must have been retired for five years to be eligible in the NFL, just sayin…
Congrats, Kai Turdpel! You’ve finally reached Simpo’s level… Hall of Famer Brett Simpson, to you, Chas, and everyone else!… any Hall without ADS is a sham. Btw, Andy was younger when he was inducted into the same Hall of Lame.
Laird and Lenny–these guys just rub me the wrong way for some reason……kinda the Roger Dangerfields of surfing I think……..
Don’t see the comparison myself
Rodney Dangerfield was a fun guy, extremely humorous and liked a good party
Just can’t see the comparison at all…
the beach grit hat of shame. aka. yellow beanie.
get back to me when he gets “waterman of the year”.
He has! (see comment below)
well fuck me. now his legacy is secure. looks like my poster of Ziff is going to have to move over a bit.
Kai inducted for being born as the richest surfer in history.
Wobbly balcony of sales wank.
I’d much rather read about what Bruddah Cliff K. has to say about the anti-observatory protests, being an actual native Hawaiian and fully embedded in actual science.
Tough call, you make a good point about being too early, but the kid deserves it with his mastery of all watercraft.
He can’t be all THAT good.
Dirk got inducted as Waterman of the Year and he’s probably never actually touched a surfboard. He’s THAT badass.
Well AS A MATTER OF FACT, Kai Lenny ALSO received this year’s SIMA Waterperson Of The Year award!
So he replaces Dirk upon the summit of Glory.
From the ridiculous to the sublime.
There’s summit the matter with that award.
It’s presented at the peak of anyone’s career
How many bodies are lost in the snow, as the rush for everyone and their dog to take a selfie at the top, with the sherpas gripping the poser’s ankles to keep them blowing away in the wind?
Oh, and Base Camp is a fuckin mess BTW.
“I’ve seen things you people wouldn’t believe.”
RIP Rutger Oelsen Hauer.
So it’s all downhill from here for young Kai then..?..
Cripes, guess ya gotta feel sorry for the poor old bugger
ha ha I’m pretty sure Kai is gonna keep doing whatever he likes, Waterperson of the Year or no Waterperson of the Year.
As long as he doesn’t get some repetitive strain type injury from all that unsightly hopping around on those foilage things hahaha
Janice is a legend! Not many individuals who have done more for the sport.
What’s her story?
She ran the NSSA (amateur contest org in America). Basically was the backbone of it and was on the beach running the show from sunup to sundown. Very positive influence on the grommets
I agree!
The BeachGrit Basement of “Shhh… it’s our little secret”’s
Considering that it’s just a marketing gimmick for a local surf shop, kinda makes sense I guess.
Kinda my thoughts, induct someone young as a way of opening a door to the youth market.$$$
The Beach Grit Mezzanine of Contempt