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Ready to protect all manner of VAL!
Ready to protect all manner of VAL!

Rebuttal: Swing the gates to Hollister Ranch wide and let the people surf those tasty waves!

Come find perfection!

All your arguments about keeping Hollister Ranch private make you sound like elitist assholes. There. I said it. I said that whole thing in my outside voice. I will probably get punched in the face at the coffee shop tomorrow. Live dangerously, is a thing I always say.

Unless you’ve been living under a rock, you will know that Hollister Ranch is slated to open to public access in April 2022. Last week, California Governor Gavin Newsom signed into law legislation that directs an assortment of land management agencies, both state and local, to develop a plan to ensure public access. Anyone who impedes this public access will be subject to fines up to $10,000.

The new law leaves open the question of what form access will take. Over the next two years, you can expect a succession of shouty meetings here in Santa Barbara County, as the relevant agencies try to resolve this question.

While the Coastal Commission, one of the principal agencies involved, has far-reaching powers in California, there are limits to what they can achieve. If you’re imagining that you’re going to be able to drive your Toyota Tacoma straight into Cojo, you’re almost certainly going to be disappointed.

That’s because, on the ground, the situation is more complicated than it looks. There are a number fabulous homes with eye-candy views, yes. The Ranch has this element in common with Malibu. And as you have certainly heard, there are the divided and subdivided parcels owned for the specific purpose of securing access for people who want to surf there.

But the Ranch also includes working cattle ranches and tracts of unfenced range land. In this respect, the area is not too different from the properties that it borders. This range land is the open space that is so often pictured when conversation turns to the Ranch: rolling hills, dotted with California live oaks, turning abruptly into tawny sandstone cliffs that drop to sandy beaches and tidy hidden reefs.

Then there’s the old Bixby Ranch, which adds one more piece to the intricate Ranch puzzle. This vast property stretches from the boundary of the county park at Jalama down to the mythical point at Cojo, and runs eastward along the coast. The area spans 24,000 acres and includes a mix of (mostly) untouched wilderness, cattle range, and Chumash sacred sites.

A look at the Bixby’s recent history offers a brief tour of California land use. During the early 20th century, it was intended to be a steel mill. That never happened, and in 1912 Fred Bixby purchased the land and the adjacent Jalama Ranch. Bixby ran cattle. Between 1972 and 2003, an oil processing facility perched on the bluffs above Cojo — and pipelines ran through the property. Beginning in 2007, a Boston-based hedge fund owned the Bixby Ranch and hoped to build a resort hotel there.

Now called the Jack and Laura Dangermond Preserve, the former Bixby Ranch is managed by the Nature Conservancy. This same organization also owns and manages lands on Santa Cruz island. In the two years since the property changed hands, there has been little talk of public access. Reportedly, it might eventually be opened for limited science and research. But you’re not going to be able to drive your Tacoma from Jalama to Cojo.

Put simply, it’s unlikely you’re going to be able to run buck-wild around the Ranch, like you own the joint (unless of course you do own the joint, then go crazy.) What is likely, is that access will amount to a single trail, hugging the coast as much as possible, and accessible by foot or by bike.

A 1972 law set it as a priority for the state to develop a recreational trail that would run along the coast from Mexico to Oregon. Subsequent legislation set out a process of securing easements to complete the project — which remains in bits and pieces to this day.

In western Santa Barbara County, sections of trail around the state park at El Capitan have recently been built. Over the past few years, there have been ongoing — and sometimes acrimonious — efforts to establish easements across private ranch lands in the area to build a recreational trail along the bluffs in eastern Gaviota. It’s not hard to imagine that public access to Hollister Ranch would look a lot like the access the County is already working to secure on the private properties nearby.

Property owners at Hollister Ranch like to claim that they are the best stewards of this idyllic land, but the area’s land use history muddies this argument significantly. And present-day behavior isn’t always exactly what you’d called environmentally conscious. Just last spring, the Coastal Commission had to tell the fabulous environmental stewards at Hollister Ranch to stop driving their cars on the beach.

It’s the last bastion against Los Angeles! You know shit’s getting real in California, when we summon up the bogeyman of Los Angeles. The Ranch will become another Trestles! Or Rincon! Filled with kooks!

Just listen to yourselves. Omg! Other surfers like me might surf where I want to surf! I mean, I hate the kooks as much as you do, but really, you are losing your minds here.

The idea of Hollister Ranch as some kind of Eden persists, but is by now, largely imagined. The best-known spots on good swells buzz with jetskis, zodiacs, and floating machines of all shapes and sizes. Anyone with a boat or a friend with a boat can go there. And we all know by now what happened to Eden.

Still, the Ranch has a unique hold on surfing’s imagination. I think it’s because we need to believe that a place like the Ranch exists in the world — even if the reality is nothing like our imaginings, and even if we never actually go there ourselves.

For most of us, the reality of surfing is driving to our nearest beach, finding a parking space in a sea of Sprinter vans, shimmying into our suits, and paddling out with the Wavestorms. But we hold on to the fantasy that there is something more. There has to be something more to this strange pastime that we can’t quite quit, no matter how absurd and pointless it sometimes feels.

We need to believe that John Severson wasn’t wrong when he said that a surfer could still in a crowded world, find the perfect wave, “and be alone with the surf and his thoughts.” Of course, there was already a lie in it. The lone surfer in Severson’s image wasn’t truly alone. Severson was there on the beach with a camera to record it all. But it remains our talisman, passed from each generation to the next.

Surf long enough, travel far enough, check that fickle local spot often enough, and yes, you can still find what Severson seemed to promise. Even in California, even here. Opening the Ranch won’t change that, not really. It might make it more difficult, sure.

But there are no sure things in surfing, no matter how many secret gates you can unlock.

And that one magic day, when you walk down the trail — wherever you may be — and you see perfect, backlit, green walls, offshores kissing the lip, and no one there to see it, no one but you, that day will make a lifetime of chasing and imagining and dreaming worth it. It just has to.

But I sometimes wonder if the true joy isn’t in the finding at all. I wonder if the true joy of this ridiculous pastime that’s seduced us all is in the dream of perfection, rather than the perfection itself — and in the endless, frequently futile, and very often stupid things we do in pursuit of it.

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llaumann

The road and common beach areas already exist on Hollister. The State Coastal Conservancy will just be purchasing access rights.

llaumann

One thing that some people miss (or overlook) is the fact that in California, coastal private property and private property are regulated differently. Thanks for pointing that out.

Gwen Walz’s Eyes

I love surfing so much. It’s incredible how hard we chase it and the disappointments and letdowns we endure to capture that fleeting feeling that a special surf session gives us.
As the sport changes ( thanks ELO! ) and gets more homogenized I try to battle the bitterness and simply appreciate how lucky I am to have experienced the good times.

SectionSB

Great writing piece Jen, the last two paragraphs pretty much sum up my thoughts on surfing.
Couple of those moments at our local spots over my gazillion years, jeez, I hope the afterlife is that good!!

91350

Tyler..the mansplanier

Gwen Walz’s Eyes

Not going to lie Jen your articles have never impressed me. Until now. This is top 5 ever on BG. Incredibly well researched and beautifully written.
1979 midwinter giant west swell. Sitting in parking lot at the Lane at 10 pm high on crank ( not proud of that ). Huge.
Jumped in the car ( moms Corolla no Tacoma’s then ) and my buddy and I Beelined it for gaviota. Get there around 3:30, park at the pier, pack our bags and start walking. There was a spotlight shining down from the guard shack toward the train track but we hugged the inside and made it past in the darkness.
Get to Little Drakes right at sunrise. 4’ to 6’ perfection best waves I’d ever seen at that time ( 16 years old). Surfed for 1 hour then noticed a guy in a big Jeep throwing our sleeping bags in the back. We dashed in and the guy said he knows we trespassed cause the tide was too high and beach access impossible. He says we have 2 hours to walk out or it’s sb county jail.
We figure fuck it let’s go up to that little veranda thing and use the shower and walk out on the road instead of the train track.
Right as we are leaving this giant truck comes screaming around the corner full e brake slide. A massive guy jumps out and charges up to us I swear I actually started pudding in my sweatpants. I knew who he was but can’t think of his name now but he was the one they based the Leroy the masochist character on in big Wednesday. Threw our boards in back but still made us walk out.
Anyway it’s a magical place your prediction of walking trails to get in sounds like a good plan no cars.
Sorry to dog you on your previous work but I don’t buy into the wall of positivity.

Preston
Gwen Walz’s Eyes

That’s him. I’m a fairly big guy not too intimidated by most people. Was rousted by Vince collier growing up but Ray was a beast.

SectionSB

the guy at the ranch was andy. I had a similar interaction, as did many people. I wrote a bit of back and forth with hippy over at surfline thread. Those guys used to carry around weapons to intimidate people.

Gwen Walz’s Eyes

Thanks for the info. I always assumed it was Ray but never knew for sure.

Tyler Tsuji

Perhaps my criticism came off as condescension to you, but I’ll see what I can do to clarify.

I feel I was pretty tentative and left quite a bit of room in my comment for myself to put my foot in my mouth (whoa, whoa, easy there) if I was incorrect in any of my feelings about your piece. So I guess I will, at least in regards to the Inertia.

You’re right about this whole debacle being curdled milk. I just happen to think it should have been resolved differently so many years ago.

Never have I denied the high tide line rule to access proponents. That’s enough to get me in hot water with the owners, but I feel it’s an important thing for this state. Access is there, it’s just not easy. Where I say enough is enough is in taking private property and developing it (to whatever level: hiking trail, parking lot, etc.). What I think people forget is that by going all the way to the side of “access should be ‘reasonable'” is that the Americans with Disabilities Act will likely be brought into play. I am certain this would result in a parking lot. I don’t think it is a matter of low-impact hiking trail versus no easy access. I think the argument is really between a high-impact parking lot versus no easy access.

Sure, eminent domain is legal and used throughout this country and has a precedent in several court cases. But that doesn’t make it right. I feel this is a tit-for-tat game instigated by people saying “screw these rich people, they have more than enough to spare”. Fair enough. But I don’t think such an attitude will lead us to where we want to go.

Black Rubber

You might be right that it isn’t going to turn into Yosemite, but the issue is that we just don’t know. There’s a massive uproar about getting access with no details on what they are going to do. Just like I don’t know it is going to become Yosemite, you don’t know it won’t. For me that is the problem.

Aside from that, it seems mighty strange that Hollister is a prime target for the Coastal Commission when there are vast tracts of land within walking distance that own near as much coastline that are not battling this. Seems a bit selective from a distance.

Doobalachy

Nicely put Jen

Tyler Tsuji

Alright. I’ve had a couple Cowboy Margaritas tonight (you’re welcome, Chas) so I’ll break radio silence.

Jen, your piece seems to be the best pro-access one that I have yet to see. However, I don’t think that it has enough of a cohesive perspective to persuade me or even entertain serious consideration on my end. You seem to hover on the Inertia “Surfing is for Everyone!!!” party line, but want to give yourself space to backpedal. I don’t feel you have a proper grip on the facts of the matter or what “coastal access” entails (it sounds nice, I know). I could be wrong. That’s the problem with this format, there’s no room for give-and-take. God knows that’s what we need with this issue and with our contemporary politics. I’m more than willing to talk to you on the phone about this so we can each see what each other really thinks; reach out.

Direct all hate mail to [email protected]. Yes, I made that email address in middle school.

In all seriousness, I’d like to converse with each one of you that is as intensely motivated by this issue as I am. I like to think that I’ll be able to hold my own. In reality, I think that problems as complicated as these are best solved through personal conversation, not individual volleys like Napoleonic naval battles.

That being said, I’m an engineering student with more than enough on his plate at the moment (I haven’t surfed in weeks, boo-hoo, I know). Maybe I’ll address all fielded email comments in a single post in the future if there’s too many to respond to individually.

Have at it.

-T

Doobalachy

Yeah yeah grade average blah blah

shootsthen

I’m pretty sure you and you’re hecklers won’t persuade each other; you want to keep access restricted and most surfers want access. Maybe a middle ground: provide access that requires initiative, like a decent hike to the surf spots (no motorized vehicles on the trails). I understand your point of view (sort of), but access to the ocean should be available to everyone (access to the ocean and lineup hierarchy/dynamics are two separate concepts).

FL Skunk Ape

The beach is owned by the public. The public should have access without having to jump through a bunch of hoops like hiking or boating in. End of story.

rogermexico

I also predict access will be primarily via a trail easement you can walk or bike in on. I don’t foresee anyone being allowed to drive in with private vehicles, but speculate that there might be limited scheduled bus trips in for the sedentary, handicapped and elderly. There will have to be public toilets, but I don’t think parking lots or camping is at all likely.

I think what I’ve outlined is not only most likely, but the most desirable outcome. As a local surfer, I’ve often contemplated going the Zodiac route as some of my friends have done, but often thought an e-bike with a surfboard rack would be ideal – giving you just enough access to avoid the danger and hassle of the sea route, while still making it take some effort and motivation to get in.

Your essay is excellent and I agree completely with opening up the ranch. The idea that this property, which was originally Chumash, then Spanish, then Mexican, then USA – an, is in any way “pristine” is a joke. It’s a fucking cattle ranch! Nothing pristine about that even if the hypocrites who live there hadn’t been driving their 4WD sprinters and G-Wagons on the beach (how lazy is that? Jesus…) for the past 40 years.

The coastal act is crystal clear on this as a legal matter. Any real capitalist will tell you no property rights are absolute, especially when they are at odds with rights of the common weal. Just look at the title to any property you own. With the easements that will come, the ranch owners will only be belatedly granting the access they have always been obligated to when the gates open to the rest of us.

SectionSB

Agree.
Are you from Nobes? If so its el Jupe here, if not sorry no worries.

rogermexico

From Cito….

SectionSB

oh…ha!! me too. La Vereda

mike m

“Tapping the Source” is a fun read. Brawls with Hollister Ranch cowboys guarding their property, brawls with Huntington Beach skinhead gangs, motorcycle gangs, surf gangs…..lots of violence, dark and enjoyable surf novel.

Shore pound

If surf fiction is a genre, Tapping The Source pretty much defines it. I read it last year, very corny, but also very entertaining.

SectionSB

see my reply above.

SectionSB

Im glad someone mentioned it!!! a classic. Read Kem Nunns next two surf books, they are good as well.
Dogs of Winter s about Humbolt?slash secret Mavericks type spot, Indians and drugs , and aging surf photogs.
Tijuana Straits is about the SD border region, meth and illegals and aging surf stars. I wish they were made into movies. Kem Nunn wrote screenplay for Sons of Anarchy , which has done well, and also surf series John from Cincinnati, which I tried to watch, but is just……weird….has some Fletcher family cameos and Kealau(sp?) Kennedy as well.
Oh yeah he also wrote detective series Chance, set in San Francisco, (Netflix or Hulu?)which I liked. Hugh Laurie starred. Kinda had Ocean Beach in it as well, that area.

frank

Perfect. In fact I will volunteer bbq hotdogs for all BGers, right at the mean high tide mark. But, byob.
And, I will be riding a midlength, unironically!

Noncompetitor

Is there an example anywhere in the world where surf like this has been opened for public use in a responsible way? What does that look like?

longtom

I’ll say Cloudbreak

MaxNeoprene

Like the former Bixby Ranch I refer to my manscaped regions as the Dangermond Preserve. And similarly no surfers get to see it. Just my non surfing wife

frank

I really and sincerely commend the way you’ve put a point on this ranch deal Jen. It is so faux-local to defend the rights of elitist rich dudes; smarmy and engraciating, for what purpose? And their lame drive on the sand behavior?! Thanks for calling them out on that, it has always pissed me off!! F ‘em. And, If we have to surf with a bunch of wavestormer pool toy ridin’ pie eyed arm flappers, so can they.
I propose a BG retreat, in the near future, at the ranch. To celebrate.
But no dumps on the beach, that ain’t cool.

gallo de la noche

Dont worry Jen no one will try and hurt you at lucky lamas, the hipsters don’t want the negative shakras to blemish the positive energy output of their geodes that they carry in their patagonia puffy jackets.

gallo de la noche

I still hike in sometimes but Iv never scored it. I have more fun surfing 2 foot Rincon before the sun comes up than pretty much anywhere else iv ever been. Also my Dad has some great stories of him and friends train hopping from Santa Maria to Hollister and having their boards taken at gunpoint by crusty ranchers that caught them camping. the late 70’s where a crazy time.

Black Rubber

Complete respect for your opinion and, as always, it’s well stated. However, I disagree. You’ve been in Santa Barbara long enough to know that you can have access. You have to work for it but if you want to surf there, you can. Those with land access have it easier, no doubt, but for those of us not in a position to gain access by land, there is an alternative.

This continually becomes a discussion of rich people vs the rest of us. There is an element of that and they are, no doubt, funding the fight, but for many of us not rich people who are on the side of keeping it closed, it’s more about preserving something that will never be possible to restore once it’s lost. I don’t know about you but I have seen no evidence that the state or national parks will be better stewards. I’ve been to Yosemite. I’ve been to Big Sur. And they’re ruined. You can say that access wont be like that but I’m not so sure. I haven’t heard anyone say what is actually going to happen. I want my kids to sit on the side of a boat before paddling out and not see tourists ten deep taking pictures with their cell phones. That is not protecting anything.

If you’ve lived in SB, you know when its good, it’s amazing but by and large, it’s crap. Blowing open the doors on one of the most amazing places in California because people have a hard on for mystical waves that are actually good only a handful of days a year is just sad.

FL Skunk Ape

Why should the public have to ‘work for it’ i.e. access? It belongs to everyone.

Black Rubber

Unfortunately, having to work for it helps preserve it. I wish that were not the case but it seems to be the only way these days

channelbottom

I wonder if any underlying concept has sold more stuff, than nostalgia.

Tat, clothes, real estate, politics, drugs, surf. You name it.

Chief Hot stuff

Sex sells

channelbottom

Yeah but what about nostalgia for that great sex you once had.
‘you’ in the general sense.

Chief Hot stuff

Yes I view the videotape regularly.
I used to be an Adonis!

Billy Hunt

It must be getting pretty worn out by now Bex

Jordy's pout

Hey, my hand is still just as good at getting me all hot and bothered as is was when I was a teenager. I don’t waste my life pining romantically for the “pre-callous” years.

SectionSB

Thats a good one!! Winner! Free walk in pass!!


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