Watch: Wild POV footage shows chilling
encounter with “tank-sized” Great White shark stalking famed Oahu
surf break Makaha!
By Chas Smith
"You want me to stay with it or warn
everybody?"
Great White sharks, in my newly developed
legal/analytical mind, are mostly cold water beasts. Cold,
dark, rocky water teeming with paranoid seals and thickly jacketed
tug boat captains. Water off the coast of northern California and
Oregon and so it regularly comes as a surprise to hear of the apex
predators roaming southern Florida, for instance, or to see them,
tank-sized and full of terror, stalking the crystalline warmth of
Hawaii.
But there, yesterday, just off Makaha a giant beast slithered
menacingly. Maybe hungry for the ghost of Da Bull, who helped bring
fame to the bigger wave spot. Maybe hungry for a flesh and bone man
and let’s watch the wild point of view footage as captured from the
seat of a water rescue jet ski.
https://www.instagram.com/p/B77BIqwHKnr/
The radio can be heard crackling, “Copy that, how far offshore
approximately?” to which the brave pilot replies, “About 200 yards.
I’m tracking him right now to see if he’s going to the lineup.”
Then, “You want me to stay with it or warn everybody?”
Eventually the shark is scared back into deeper waters but
chilling nonetheless.
Troubling.
No surfing in Hawaii for six days.
Possibly even seven.
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British musician “too ill to wash, clothe
herself” receiving disability benefits charged with fraud after
releasing music video “boasting of her surfing skills!”
By Chas Smith
Chas Smith, Esq. is on the case.
Oh this surfing life we live, this surfing life we
love. Cold mornings, cold water, ice cream headaches, reef
cuts, fin cuts, late to work, late to pick up kids, calling in sick
to work, surfing. We’re all masochists, no? Or at the very least
have a little masochist in us and definitely a lot of deviant.
Well, in a case roiling the British press, a self described
“professional surfer, shark enthusiast and musician” has been
charged with fraud for allegedly surfing in a contest and
performing in a music video “boasting of her skills” and it is only
appropriate to learn more of
this heroine. This symbol of our best qualities. Or at
the very least our most accurate qualities.
A musician, 36, got £27,000 benefits after claiming was too
ill dress or wash herself despite allegedly saying she competed in
a Boardmasters surfing competition, a court heard.
October Hamlyn-Wright, of Newquay, Cornwall, is on a fraud
charge after authorities found evidence of her jet-setting
lifestyle.
She toured Australia and Scandinavia, and played Glastonbury
despite receiving the disability benefits across two years, it was
alleged.
Hamlyn-Wright, now of Surrey, also made a music video
boasting her surfing skills.
According to the Sun, Prosecutor Andrew Price said: ‘In the
biography on her October Rocks website, she says she is a
professional singer, songwriter, surfer and shark enthusiast and a
surfing competitor with Boardmasters.’
This is despite providing a ‘considerable number of ailments
and illnesses’ in benefit applications in New Malden, Surrey, in
2013 and 2015.
On the story goes and of course October is fighting the charges
but… might a surf journalist lend his hand and solve the case?
I was very curious about the music video with the boasting but
couldn’t find. What I did discover, however, was reference to the
surf contest wherein Ms. Hamlyn-Wright placed 3rd.
Now, would you like to hire me as your lawyer? Your barrister?
Got a tough case?
I promise to bring a certain flair to courtroom proceedings. And
a mind like a steel trap.
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Mick Fanning, pictured at left in superstar
sandwich with Teddy Vedder and Kelly Slater. Steve
Sherman/@tsherms
Longtom on Tokyo 2020: “Is Australian
surfing that far down the toilet even the Olympic Committee doesn’t
recognise the existence of its Olympic representatives?”
By Longtom
Bad omens.
In all the excitement and giddy schadenfreude over the
John Florence Hurley walk-out and the Bristol scale we’ve taken our
eyes off the countdown to the main prize, which is now
looming in the near distance, 180 days hence, to be precise.
I’m talking about surfing’s debut as an Olympic Sport at the
Tokyo Olympics of course.
During the course of researching an article for ASL about
surfing’s inclusion as an Olympic sport during the closing stages
of 2017, when all options were still on the table, including
Slater’s wave systems, I came across a Japanese man on the
organising committee who bravely stood up against the WSL
juggernaut to fight for surfing in the ocean.
Alas, despite many hours of searching he now appears to be lost
to history.
I like to imagine him, subjected to the passionate advocacy of
our dearly departed Sophie as she hustled for the debut to take
place in the basin. A long pause follows Sophie’s spiel before our
hero gently raises a hand.
“No”, he says inscrutably, “surfing will take place in the
ocean. At Tsurigasaki Beach.”
So, that it is written, so that it will be done.
In the course of the research I discovered something even more
shocking and newsworthy.
More on that in a second.
But first, are you a fan of Japan? Me, very much.
Even though I’ve never been it occupies a very large place in my
heart. In these culturally relativistic times it’s unacceptable
discourse to extol the virtues of one culture over another, but
could we sneak in a little list of the things Japan has a clearly
superior record in?
Yes?
OK: cuisine*, religion, variety of output from vending machines,
high-speed trains, futuristic cities, fishing tackle, bike gears,
adult entertainment, animation, automotive engineering (Toyota
being the number one car of the people, Lexus being far superior as
a luxury vee-hickle to the Stuttgart manufacturers), cults,
animation, nature worship, forms of poetry (haiku, koan), kawaii**,
work ethic, beer, architecture, snow monkeys, communal bathing,
powder snow etc etc.
All undisputable facts.
The one area they are clearly deficient in, unless they meant to
disrespect on purpose, is knowledge of Australian surfing. My
research uncovered a video and short spiel on surfings inclusion in
Tokyo titled One Minute, One Sport: Surfing. I found it
right next to One Minute, One Sport: Canoe and One
Minute, One Sport: Artistic Swimming.
Until they get to the section titled “Ruling the waves at Tokyo
2020.”
John John and Kelly get mentioned for USA, as does Kolohe.
Respectful.
The Brazilian Storm is referenced, appropriately. Gabriel and
Adriano and Italo all make the cut. No Filipe, but no harm: he
missed out.
Jordy Smith for South Africa and former World Number One Kanoa
Igarashi, surfing for Japan are brought into the fold.
When it comes to the Australian contingent, we get the long
sword in the guts. Joel Parkinson and Mick Fanning are touted as
our potential representatives. Fanning retired two years before the
Olympics!
Parkinson hasn’t been seen in a coloured jersey for almost as
long.
I’m right now, writing pre-emptive letters of protest on behalf
of Owen Wright and Julian Wilson. This disrespect cannot stand. Is
Australian competitive surfing that far down the shitter that even
the Olympic committee, with it’s legendary wisdom in facing down
the WSL onslaught, doesn’t recognise the existence of our Olympic
representatives?
Bad omens for Aus surfing.
Tell me, how pumped are you on surfings Olympic debut, on a
scale of one to ten where one is you’d rather shoot heroin in the
eyeball than watch and ten is cashing in your kids education fund
to be there in person?
I’m hovering between a four and a six. Maybe a high seven if
Italo surfs it in cut-offs during a typhoon swell.
*Any cuisine where the belly flap of the toadfish with it’s
potentially lethal dose of tetrodotoxin is served up for culinary
kicks has to be number one.
** Japanese cute culture.
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Man from Futures Fins to Chas Smith: "Get this
you clown! Backward fins work!"
Shock reveal: backward fins work;
Vissla/BeachGrit release movie, clothing range to celebrate!
By Derek Rielly
A collaboration to break your heart.
It’s safe to say that the highlight of 2018, from a surf
culture point of view, was the Backward Fins Beth
imbroglio, when the WSL’s new chief commercial officer,
their “purveyor of cool, Beth Greves, appeared on
@kookoftheday with her fins put in, yeah,
backwards.
We ate and regurgitated that morsel here,
here,
here,
here,
hereandhere and
bookended the saga with a billboard near Kelly Slater’s wave pool
in Lemoore, and installed just before The Surf Ranch Pro.
Slater saw it. He is a tireless online poster, with a rare
degree of patience. On his Instagram feed, a magnet for cranks of
all kinds, he has spent years debating flat-Earthers, laying out
innumerable scientific proofs that the planet is round. He’s a
well-informed environmentalist; right-wing flamethrowers rain
hellfire on him for that, and he often takes the trouble to reply
to them individually. When the Backward Fins Beth billboard went
viral, Slater showed a tiny bit of pique. On the BeachGrit
Instagram feed, he wrote, “Funny. Cheap. Character Revealing.” The
BeachGrit crew was ecstatic. They had successfully trolled the
king.
Now, and with much egg on our faces etc, it’s been revealed that
putting your fins in backward ain’t such a bad thing.
It works.
And, so, with eyes filled with an empathic warmth towards the
pioneer of the backward fins movement, we announce a collaboration
with Paul Naude’s Vissla, featuring two t-shirts and a pair of surf
trunks with the backward fins motif, as well as our cry for help
tee.
All meaningless, of course, without video proof of the backward
fins theory being tested.
Want to see if Pipe shredder Cam Richards and pals can fly with
reverse fins?
Watch.
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Quick question... who in hell is this "surfing
group?"
Breaking: Australian movement to reject
British crown gains steam over perceived mistreatment of “Surfing
Royals” Harry and Meghan!
By Chas Smith
Some food for thought.
And I’ll admit to being jealous of Australia
and Canada and their infantile suckling on the teat of Britain’s
proud monarchy. Oh the history, the pomp, the comfort in being
tucked into bed, nightly, knowing a steady hand is at or near the
wheel. We Americans are let to bob up and down, swinging from the
jowls of one highly unpredictable politician to the next. Our
“king” is basically Mike Bloomberg and imagine that.
The horror, the horror.
In any case, Australia’s “republican” movement has gained sudden
steam over perceived mistreatment of “Australian-esque” Prince
Harry and his beautiful wife Meghan Markle. Their “surf-like”
qualities are admired in the land down under but let’s learn
more and then, as Americans, give some advice.
Harry and Meghan’s decision comes at a time when Australians
are talking very seriously about becoming a republic, although
recent polling has provided mixed results. A February 2018 poll by
Research Now found 52% supported a republic with 25% unsure and
just 22% supporting the monarchy.
A Newspoll in November 2018, just after a royal tour by
Harry and Meghan, found only 40% supported a republic with 48%
against. This was the first time since 1999 that a poll found more
people opposed the change.
In 2019, it was even reportedly proposed that Harry might be
made the governor-general of Australia. This move would have
potentially boosted royal support but was ultimately
dismissed.
A Dynata poll in June 2019 then found that support for a
republic among under 25-year-olds had grown to 57%, with 50% of
those 25-34 supporting a change.
A large part of the couple’s appeal is that they appear
relatable (read: surfy) when compared to the Queen or Prince
Charles. It certainly is relatable for a couple in their 30s with a
young family to want to move from home and be financially
independent. The catch for monarchists is that much of the couple’s
popularity comes from their rejecting traditional royal
roles.
Now, advice…
DON’T LEAVE THE CROWN! Freedom may look good but one day you
wake up sandwiched between Bill and Hillary Clinton, Bill
mouth-breathing, Hillary binge watching episodes of Friends while
passive-aggressively hate-texting Seema Nanda and think… “Whoa.
How’d I end up here?”