Surfing.
The Grit! has long been a veritable garden of half-baked opinion, arguing two conflicting ideas simultaneously, speaking first, learning second. In short, a fair representation of the surf life but the surf life has never been so under attack.
On the right, blind loyalty to a B-grade reality television star has eroded self-awareness.
On the left, slavish devotion to “science” and “experts” has eroded common sense.
And here we are, with half-baked opinion, arguing two conflicting ideas simultaneously, speaking first and learning never as the attitude that will save us all.
The surf life.
David Lee and I discuss the great Michael Tomson, the end of Surfer, why it is important to ignore doctors etc.
As empty as it is important.
Come mock the future.
Commented on Disqus? Log out, tap the Disqus button, and your old name and comments come back. The box is ours.
Your comments are still here. Every one of them.
Twelve years of BeachGrit comments came across from Disqus. Connect and we will show you how many are yours. We get your username, nothing else.
Connect Disqus to reveal.
Now that I’d definitely listen to!
Good Robert Pattinson movie: the rover
In the barrel or nah bit the bit where DLS said he was surprised that surfer triggered people by the political insta.. I can’t help but think he missed the point. Which, I think, is that people are sick to death of being told what to do/how to vote!!! That’s the trigger part, being told, not the actual angle of the post. I tend to agree with em but also fuck them for being so brazen to think they can tell people they are bad if they disagree.
I’ll listen to it later.
Emptiness is very important.
I salute your attitude
And I’m shocked that so many surfers are so cool with so many rules these days.
They make me sick,
Mock the future!!!!!!
Mick Mock for President !
Will you be the first , former young liberal , to become an Anarchist ?
Hello Curran interview with Prodan? Any Takers!
Will listen to the Curren interview later
I tried to listen to it just because I’ve never heard more than 10 words from Tom. Wished I’d kept it to that.
Listen to this one – absolute cracker – this guy can talk
https://podcasts.apple.com/…
Were you judging at the schools comp ?
And yea, Tom … I saw all I wanted to see and hear when Occ had him on the occast.
They talked crap and then went fucken in-line skating….. two former champs skating…. pathetic.
I thought to myself, “Maybe all those meathead rugby players were right. Surfers are ghay af.”
AFL players are very articulate for some reason.
Yip, finished yesterday. Typically last day was broadcasted live on Sky and surf was terrible.
Young astro showed me a bit of it.
NE ! Out there ya frothers !
Curren should be interesting as a subject but he’s just so damn boring. I remember someone wrote about him years ago in a mag that he could smoke someone one heat then just not catch a wave in the next and it was done with just as much style. Artists shouldn’t have to explain their art. In his case, it’s better he doesn’t.
I think this is probably the period after his ruthless pursuit of three world titles ….. The man took no prisoners…..until his goals changed and decided otherwise . Some random French Dude once said he wanted to be a Free surfer like Tom Curren , oblivious to the fact that he was once the ultimate competitive animal , with a freakish ability to find waves , in a heat , in places where no wave had broken the entire day …
He spelled it with an (a)….
Shout out to Timmy Curran
I listened to it, he was more engaging than I had ever heard him before, especially compared to that Occy episode. He’s aloof, but I learned a bit more about him. I’m looking forward to listening to the Devon Howard interview, Devon is always a good listen
I always thought he was exceptionally shy until I heard ( please all correct me if I am wrong ) he was just enjoying the warm inner glow of herbs …. ?
Most I’ve ever heard from Curren. I liked it.