Greek God, part-time Hawaiian, Laird Hamilton blows doors of perception off rusty hinges by officially surfing the world’s longest wave!

Poetry.

Days ago it was revealed, here, that Greek god and part-time Hawaiian Laird Hamilton had utterly stupefied the general public by swimming underwater whilst holding a dumbbell.  An amazing feat of strength, will, endurance and witnessed by big wave surfers Billy Kemper and Luca Padua.

What was unknown, at the time, was that two short months before, Hamilton had been foil surfing Chicama in Peru and may have just caught “the world’s longest wave.”

Footage captures Hamilton dressed in a black spring suit, holding a GoPro stick and effortlessly gliding a very wide red and yellow foil all over the steady, but not very shapely, left-hander.

I counted each and every second until I realized that this particular ride may not be “the longest in the world” as billed by much media but rather Chicama is “the longest wave in the world.”

“Laird Hamilton surfs world’s longest wave.”

Very opaque.

In any case, I was glad I watched and you are glad you watched too. Tom Brady begins his quest for another Super Bowl ring tonight with his Tampa Bay Buccaneers. His 22nd season under center.

Ageless like Kelly Slater, like Laird Hamilton.

The same as they ever were, the same as they ever will be.

How much would you imagine a broth made from the bones of Tom Brady, Kelly Slater or Laird Hamilton would go for on the open market?

Superfood.

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Voice of professional surfing Joe Turpel pushes to outermost edges of sexual propriety, shocking female co-host with lewd-adjacent metaphor: “A good floater lingers briefly on the lip just like a first kiss from a hesitant lover.”

Smoldering.

Joe Turpel has been the official voice of professional surfing ever since billionaire Dirk Ziff purchased the Association of Surfing Professionals for free in 2013, changing its name to World Surf League two years later. There he sits in the oftentimes pallet booth, skin caramelized, voice a steady flow of Mrs. Butterworth’s syrup from an e-zee pour spout.

The broadcaster is rarely given to excess. When Australia’s Mick Fanning was attacked by a shark live, on air, during a heat, for example, Turpel, even-voice’d, suggested that he “hop on the sled and reset.”

But something, of late, has overtaken the man. As you know, Turpel is now, also, the voice of The Ultimate Surfer sitting there in a pallet booth next to his female cohost and last night he pushed to the very edge of sexual propriety.

Showing a clip of Gabriel Medina, Turpel explained, slower with much more body language than necessary, “Right there? That’s a floater. A good floater lingers… briefly on the lip just like a… first kiss from a… hesitant lover,” then made long and longing eye contact with her.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CTkjIpYp7Xx/

Which lover was hesitating left unsaid.

His cohost, clearly shocked, could only choke out, “Oh… well.”

And Joe Turpel, in the year 2021 when cancellation lurks around every corner, #MeToo still guillotining ol’ dinosaurs , decided this was his moment to smolder like it was 1960.

Mad man.

We can only hope that he is allowed to bring this heat to Lower Trestles.

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Italo, wearing the tit-fruit of a man who enjoys lifting plates, and local enforcer The Sheriff.

Full-length feature film: The Curious Tales of Italo Ferreira!

The story of the ultra-vibrant Ferreira, who enjoys dressing in zoo-animal prints, is an  old and hackneyed one: but in Italo’s case it’s true.

The fifty-minute film, The Curious Tales of Italo Ferreira, draws on decades of friendships and shared histories of the reigning, at least for a few more days, world champion surfer from Baia Fermosa in northern Brazil.

The story of the ultra-vibrant Ferreira, who is twenty-seven, and who enjoys dressing in zoo-animal prints that are the hallmark of ebullient resort wear, is an old and hackneyed one: but in Italo’s case it’s true. The key to the pro surfing kingdom wasn’t presented to him on an upholstered velvet cushion via a dad that surfed, a benevolent sponsor and a training program where men stand on the beach under an umbrella filming the children for later review of technique.

Italo grew up in a fishing town in north-east Brazil, population eight thousand, called Baia Formosa; a joint where the only paved roads are the ones that lead into the village.

Italo’s pops would wander the beach and buy the catch of local fisherman and make his profit, a slender one but enough to feed his family, selling fish to restaurants.

His skinny son wanted to surf so Pops gave him the foam lid from the box he kept his fish in.

Eight-year-old Italo was so small it just worked on Baia’s little righthander.

Then, and in short order, an older friend who saw the boy’s love of surfing gifted him a fibreglass surfboard, he won the first contest he entered, moved onto regional events and then national, trying to win “cars, motorbikes and tickets to fly overseas.”

And so on.

Watch here. 

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In cinematic crescendo, surfing great Kelly Slater snatches Momentum Generation stablemate and friend Kalani Robb from clutches of Covid-induced death!

Heroes made.

Kelly Slater, 11x World Champion, television personality, has done it all through a long and storied career. He has won eleven World Championships along with being featured on television not once but twice. He has started many businesses, some failed, achieved a purple belt in jiu jitsu, became board member of metaphysical life advancement center and just snatched Momentum Generation stablemate and good friend Kalani Robb from the clutches of Covid-induced death.

Cinematic.

Robb, who contracted the disease last week and has been meticulously documenting his journey, worried fans very much when his diary almost went dark on day four. They became downright hysterical when day five went completely unfilled.

Day six.

Cue Kelly Slater.

As the clock neared midnight, Robb poked a weary head out death’s front door, staggered, only to catch the artificial wave technology scion dropping a house made nutritious bone broth on the doorstep before scampering away, throwing double shakas.

“Wanna see the bestest friend ever?” Robb wheezed. “Don’t breathe on him.”

“Don’t breathe on me, motherfucker,” Slater responded.

Beautiful.

Robb also added the caption “11 time worlds best ever friend saving my life through all this (praying hands emoji).”

And while there may be so many disagreements as to vaccinating versus un-vaccinating, traditional therapies versus progressive, can’t we all just agree that bone broth is a great thing?

Even vegans?

More as the story develops.

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Reckless Mutilation: San Clemente surf royalty Kolohe Andino, Griffin Colapinto, Luke Davis and more set to smash Florida at same time as Hurricane Larry!

Thanks Mick Fanning for majorly contributing to global warming.

Strange days what with former Bachelors and Bachelorettes enticing ultimate surfers, an underground clamoring for Seth Rogen to become King of Malibu and the world’s only anti-depressive surf website taking an honest-to-goodness environmental stand but here we are, living and loving in the time of Coronavirus.

In other apocalyptic news, Hurricane Larry is bearing down on Florida and as fate would have it, San Clemente’s best surfers (save the hot, young sponsored junior and Malia Jones) are bearing down on it too.

Kolohe Andino, Griffin and Crosby Colapinto, Luke Davis and Ian Crane are currently touring the United States with their just-released film Reckless Isolation, a documentation of a surf trip to Indonesia.

Very cool but they may just get a better film chasing Larry up and down the sunshine state. Allegedly #recklessisolarry is trending on Twitter in Florida with hordes of pandemic-crazed surf fans reaching fever-adjacent levels of thrill.

Jamie O’Brien is there too.

Maybe even Ben Gravy.

But back to San Clemente’s hottest. They will be in Orlando, September 9 at The Plaza Live. September 10 drops them to New Smyrna Beach at the Atlantic Center for the Arts (buy tickets as sellouts are common), the greatest place on earth to watch a surf film and September 11 sends them to Jacksonville, find them at Surfer the Bar.

Strange days but very fun ones too.

Thanks Mick Fanning for majorly contributing to global warming.

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