Can there ever be too much surf?
It was announced, yesterday, that Hollywood funnyman and one-time Malibu local Jonah Hill is moving to the Hawaiian island of Oahu and what a bounty for the residents there. Pure joy. Well, as a noted surfer, Hill is moving at the right time as 2022’s Winter of Wild shows no sign of easing with yet another swell event on the way.
According to the Honolulu Star-Advertiser, “Forecasters predict dangerously large breaking waves of 25 to nearly 40 feet on Niihau, Kauai, Oahu and Molokai. Waves of 22 to 26 feet are expected along the north shores of Maui, and Hawaii island is anticipated to see waves between 8 to 12 feet.”
Not big enough to run The Eddie, I suppose, which didn’t run again this year even though there were more waves that Hill could shake a log at.
David Lee Scales and I did not discuss The Eddie when we met together yesterday for our weekly chat but we did talk about there perilous position WSL CEO Erik Logan finds himself in as well as the correct way to pop up on a surfboard.
Enjoy, if you feel in the mood.
Quite the fox..
Not far from the spot where Cpt. Cook met his end.
It’s been a great winter season here. A week hasn’t gone by that there hasn’t been overhead waves. Today it’s firing on Westside BI… every bit of the 8-12ft. forecast.
Left Pipe at 3pm on Saturday and there were still third reef sets.
We stayed up at Turtle Bay and it was completely closed out on Friday…I have never seen that before.
“Keanu can surf as he learned how to for two months before his role in Point Break. Keanu
Reeves was not just acting in the 1991 film, he and his crew members
all learned how to surf to make the movie more realistic.”
(2) months is just about enough time to get to your feet. If he rode (1) wave, can he surf?
Yes. Usually around day 6-8 of a two week trip. Just sit out for the day and recover a bit.
Tell me did drop knee Wright and the other we deserve respect female pros hang around to catch the swell at Pipe and Sunset or did they sculk away with their bullshit one frame photos that they will run to death on social media.
I saw Carissa come out of the water at Pipe last Sunday but it was a small day.
Other than that I didn’t see any women surfers in the water on Friday or Saturday which were the two big days.
To be fair…the conditions were too big for good Pipeline.
Is there anything more cringeworthy than when DLS says “I’m down with that”?
“That’s the dang thing, though!” “Oh, and by the way . . .”
I wonder if it’s the asteroid that’s following Earth, climate change, pandemic, or just simply storms that create waves!? Storms just aren’t as sexy as that other bs to normies.
It’s been six years since the last Eddie.
One would think that an increase in frequency and severity of storms due to Climate Change™️ would result in multiple Eddies per year.
Nice. keep up the work!
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