Mikey February, NY Times.
"I was born in 1993, just as apartheid was ending in South Africa. My father is an avid surfer who introduced me to the sport at a young age, and the freedom he felt in the ocean had a big impact on me. He faced challenges pursuing the sport, since it was historically reserved for white South Africans and beaches were segregated until 1989. But by the time I came around, things were changing."

The New York Times rhapsodises surfer Mikey February in documentary, “I think about my ancestors who were brought to Cape Town as enslaved people”

“They were stripped of their humanity and identity and renamed February, after the month of their arrival.”

Think of South African surfer Mikey February, not as the pro surfer who once upon a time ran on the world tour, but surfer as a beautiful object, a beautiful thing, worthy of worship. 

No one, I believe, can resist falling love with a such a face or a body with its small round pectorals and nipples like dark brown currants.

Now, the New York Times, a race-obsessed left-tilting newspaper that swings between parody and propaganda, and which was last in these pages when it slammed The Greatest Surf Movie in the Universe as “spectacularly bad“, has fallen under the thirty-one-year-old’s spell, running an op-ed piece from Mikey February, as well as a sixteen-minute documentary about him called A New Wave. 

Mikey February writes:

I was born in 1993, just as apartheid was ending in South Africa. My father is an avid surfer who introduced me to the sport at a young age, and the freedom he felt in the ocean had a big impact on me. He faced challenges pursuing the sport, since it was historically reserved for white South Africans and beaches were segregated until 1989. But by the time I came around, things were changing. Being able to bring his son to the beach and into the water was something he’d always dreamed of. He’d always have a big smile on his face when we’d go surfing together, and he still does.

I often think about my ancestors who were brought to Cape Town as enslaved people. They were stripped of their humanity and identity and renamed February, after the month of their arrival. This history is part of my family’s story and I’m proud to carry the name, whose meaning and history changes and deepens with each generation. My parents being so proud of who they are makes me feel proud, too, and I work to continue that legacy.

Trailer, below, whole thing here.

 

 

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Pipeline hell-raiser Moana Jones Wong wins historic tuberiding contest for women at Padang Padang!

"Surfing with such amazing women and coming out on top—there's nothing better."

The undisputed Queen of Pipeline and Donald Trump fan-gal (“That’s my president!”) Moana Jones Wong has won the tiara and sash for best girl surfer at Rip Curl’s Padang Padang contest.

Padang Padang, as most readers will know, lets a man, or gal, in easy before going straight for the jugular. A soft hiss before the explosion. It’s a wave for surfers who have an objective relish for danger, a chevalier-esque urge to prevail in battle.

Bali, too, is a study of contrasts. 

On a day when Padang Padang wasn’t its usual hair-raising self, Moana Jones Wong employed her trademark long, slow fades to beat a real tough field, which included Fiji Pro winner, the Canadian teen prodigy Erin Brooks.

“This win is unreal,” Moana Jones Wong said. “The conditions were challenging, but that’s what makes it so satisfying. You never really know what the ocean’s going to throw at you, and that’s the beauty of it. Surfing with such amazing women and coming out on top—there’s nothing better. Padang Padang is just magical.”

Moana Jones Wong came into the broader spotlight a couple of years back when her wildly dominant performance against the best surfers in the world at Pipeline a couple of years back made her, briefly, the toast of the surfing.

Four years ago, her position as the Queen of Pipeline was cemented when she belted the current Olympic silver medallistTatiana Weston-Webb on the beach and used the words “stupid” and “bitch” to describe her after West dropped in on her.

And last year, Jones Wong was slammed for wrong-think by Surf Equity, a “non-profit, which accepts all races, cultures, sexual orientations, gender identities, national origins, abilities, socioeconomic backgrounds, gender expressions, countries of origin, ethnicities, religions and genders”.

“In 2023, Jones Wong aligned herself with Bethany Hamilton in expressing views that were perceived as anti-trans and targeted towards LGBTQIA+ surfers. Additionally, Wong made comments questioning the competitive prowess of cisgender women in professional surfing, suggesting that they were inadequate in comparison to a trans woman. These incidents contribute to the rise of anti-trans sentiments within the pro surfing community, involving numerous athletes.”

Ironic, then, Moana Jones Wong should win an event sponsored by Rip Curl, a company lashed as cowards by brave transgender campaigner Roxy Tickle, whose journey we featured a couple of days back. 

In the men, Noa “Horse” Deane beat his childhood hero Joel Parkinson and current beau Mason Ho surprising no one except himself.

“I never thought I would win,” Noa said. “My intention was pure fun and surfing with my hero Mason Ho. It turns out I was the winner, and this is the best feeling ever.”

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Mikey Wright (pictured) after working hours.
Mikey Wright (pictured) after working hours.

Australian surfers rejoice after country adopts rule allowing them to ignore bosses!

The glorious work-life balance.

The United States of America is, let’s be frank, decidedly not a workers’ paradise. The employed in this land of the free, home of the brave are expected to slave long hours without rest and then are at beck and call of bosses after hours if something goes sideways. It’s the wages of capitalism, I suppose, and you can imagine the envy US surfers have in eyes when peering across the Pacific at communist Australian brothers and sisters.

The Lucky Country, hours ago, passed a landmark “right to disconnect” rule wherein surfers can tell their bosses to kick rocks if contacted after hours.

According to the BBC, the law does not prohibit the aforementioned big cheeses from contacting their charges but does give the latter the right to not answer and/or obey if the request is “not reasonable,” a phrase which will be defined on a case-by-case basis by Australia’s Fair Work Commission.

Failure to comply, and/or failure to do reasonable work, leads to a hefty fine.

Australia’s Council of Trade Unions proudly declared the new standard “will empower workers to refuse unreasonable out-of-hours work contact and enabling greater work-life balance.”

John Hopkins, from Swinburne University of Technology, added, “Any organisation that has staff who have better rest and who have better work-life-balance are going to have staff who are less likely to have sick days, less likely to leave the organisation.”

But do you think John Hopkins wishes he attended John Hopkins University instead?

Likely.

Back to the issue at hand, though, “work-life balance.” How often have you heard/read this phrase lately? Any concept that gets this much heat very soon transforms into utter nonsense. I feel we’re already there with “work-life balance.”

David Brennan, an Australian in the financial industry, bucked the trend and openly said, “I think it’s an excellent idea. I hope it catches on. I doubt it’ll catch on in our industry, to tell the truth though. We’re well paid, we’re expected to deliver, and we feel we have to deliver 24 hours a day.”

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Nias (pictured) pretending to be inviting. Photo: Indo Surf
Nias (pictured) pretending to be inviting. Photo: Indo Surf

New documentary showcases how surf colonialism, sex, drugs and “dark magic” killed Nias

"People went mysteriously missing and some died suddenly abroad..."

Nias. The very name conjures wild visions in the head of any surfer who came of age in the before times*. That freightraining right, tall and square, ripping through Lagundri Bay framed by an impossibly verdant backdrop. That very picture of surf perfections. Located in some 12o km from the Indonesian mainland, Nias is a large barrier island once colonized by the Dutch before slipping into historical footnotes after World War II. Australian surfers Kevin Lovett and John Giesel, joined by Peter Troy, stumbled upon the gem in 1975 and herein lies a modern story of greed, power and the all too familiar story of surf paradises lost.

A new documentary, Point of Change, by filmmaker Rebecca Coley explores what happens when surfers start being polite and start getting real. Per The Guardian’s review:

Word got out to the surfing community about Nias’ idyllic charms, and soon led to boatloads of tourists, pollution and a local populace all too eager to profit from the visitors’ appetites for drugs, alcohol and sex. Geisel, Lovett and others developed malaria. People went mysteriously missing and some died suddenly abroad, suggesting dark forces at work; these were talked of by the locals who believed in shamanism and the presence of dark magic.

Surfers, man. Can’t take them anywhere.

Coley focuses on the dark magic bits, apparently, not writing off evil spirits at play. The Guardian, classically science-based, declares the director “rather indulges this woo-woo mysticism making Point of Change both a bit creepier and sillier at the same time” thus knocking two stars off the rating.

What are your thoughts about that?

I once went deep down a Bolivian silver mine and there was a devil down there whom miners offered cigarettes and coca leaves. He was very creepy and also, I guess, a little silly. But more creepy, certainly.

Examine trailer for Nias doco here.

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Waterman of the Year Nathan Florence almost killed in “extremely violent” South American wipe-out.

“Am I confused or did he not pop up?”

În a terrifyingly frank confession just released, Nathan Florence, Dirk and Natasha Ziff’s successor as Waterman of the Year as determined by the good burghers of the Surf Industry Manufacturers Association, has admitted he nearly died in Brazil after attempting to surf a wave almost seventeen storeys high and breaking in three feet of water.

A wave that kills for malice and for sport.

The usually low-key Florence, who is a thirty-year-old Gemini and married to the daughter of Hawaiian muscle god Kai Garcia aka Kaiborg, described the wipeout as “extremely violent. It was one of those waves when you realise you’re falling and you’re worried about what’s about to happen. I got really lucky. Had I slammed the rocks in front of the wave, had I slammed into those and then got pulled over into the other rocks, it would’ve been game over. Just the speed I was travelling underwater.”

As unflappable, or as nihilistic, as ever, Nathan Florence added brightly, “But I didn’t! So I got really fortunate! And now I think the plan is to do some paddling today.”

Yesterday I wrote that Nathan Florence had “conquered” the Shock Slab, near Rio, but in truth, the wave nearly conquered him. (Watch wipeout and back story here.)

Today, in part two, which includes Florence’s near-death story, he throws himself back into the fray, this time paddling the joint. Also in the mix is the Italian Niccolo Porcella whom you may remember from a terrific wipeout at Teahupoo a while back. When he attempts the same manoeuvre at the Shock Slab, he is gone for many seconds.

“Am I confused or did he not pop up?” says Nathan Florence’s wife Mahina.

It’s a video that will take a hammerlock on your emotions.

Powerful and undeniably essential.

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