"To me the mid-length represents a giving up, a throwing in the towel, a capitulation to nature, age, crowds, weakness."
The San Diego surfer Devon Howard, a “great style master” and famous for his non-sexual charisma, is the man credited with converting longboard hating Chas Smith to the use of the mid-length surfboard.
Chas admitted his apostasy in a post some years back:
“To me the mid-length represents a giving up, a throwing in the towel, a capitulation to nature, age, crowds, weakness. Quitters ride mid-lengths. Rebels ride shortboards, high performance, fishy-hybrids, twins while shaking a balled up fist at destiny and yelling, “I will NOT be undone!”
“Except…
In this interview, which may have been a pro qui pro for a new surfboard, Devon Howard describes longboarding as the punk rock older brother of the shortboard shredder, details the sublime joy of being hated and urges all surfers to break through the code of silence that is killing surfing.