Longboarding maestro Devon Howard and the “silence” killing surfing!

"To me the mid-length represents a giving up, a throwing in the towel, a capitulation to nature, age, crowds, weakness."

The San Diego surfer Devon Howard, a “great style master” and famous for his non-sexual charisma, is the man credited with converting longboard hating Chas Smith to the use of the mid-length surfboard.

Chas admitted his apostasy in a post some years back:

“To me the mid-length represents a giving up, a throwing in the towel, a capitulation to nature, age, crowds, weakness. Quitters ride mid-lengths. Rebels ride shortboards, high performance, fishy-hybrids, twins while shaking a balled up fist at destiny and yelling, “I will NOT be undone!”

“Except…

“At night, when no one is looking, I hide under the covers and scroll Instagram until I find Devon Howard’s profile then drool, playing this clip over and over and over and over until I’m in the throes of absolute ecstasy.”

In this interview, which may have been a pro qui pro for a new surfboard, Devon Howard describes longboarding as the punk rock older brother of the shortboard shredder, details the sublime joy of being hated and urges all surfers to break through the code of silence that is killing surfing.

“Silence is violence,” says Devon Howard. 

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California surfers beg for relief as yet another super swell arrives

Surfline, save us!

The old chestnut “be careful what you wish for, it might just come true” has never meant more to California’s surfers who suffered through one of worst summer/autumn dry spells in recorded history are now entering their tenth consecutive day of mega swell. Shorelines being lit right up. From Santa Cruz’s Steamer Lane to Ventura’s Rincon all the way down to La Jolla’s Blacks, ten days of big and bigger surf and counting.

Early “stoke” and “glee” has given way to an overwhelming sense of dread as Golden State sliders check the forecast and see phrases like “new NW energy moves in” or “swell in water being reinforced,” wondering if shoulders can take any more. If marriages, family well-being, employment can take any more too.

A brutal run that, currently, has no end in sight.

California, recognizing an impending collapse, has urged residents to “stop going to the beach” though surfers, as is their wont, are not listening very well.

But do you live here?

Are your shoulders sore?

Is marriage failing?

More importantly, what have you been riding?

Share, please.

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Ross Clarke Jones almost loses hand in horror wipeout.
Ross Clarke-Jones gets on a heater while contest nurse saves his paw.

Big-wave legend Ross Clarke-Jones’ hand “close to being amputated” after wipeout on thirty-foot wave

Surf icon enjoys cigarette after wiepout that nearly cost him his paw!

The Australian big-wave surf icon, Ross Clarke-Jones, affectionately known in celebrity circles as Mad Dog, has narrowly avoided having his hand amputated after a wipeout on a thirty-foot wave at the recently completed Eddie Aikau Big Wave Invitational.

Ross, who was famously born on 6/6/66, has long eluded all methods available in the drama of nature to eliminate him from this earthly realm.

Five years ago, while appearing in a Celebrity Survivor series, Ross snapped his ankle on a rope swing, an injury so devastating he was “totally incapacitated, depressed, broke and anxious”.

Two years without surfing. Couldn’t even step on a surfboard. Was scared of even going into the water in case he fell and did more damage.

Says if he’d had a gun he would’ve shot himself.

At this year’s Eddie contest, Ross, who won the event in 2001, wiped out, snapped his board and the fibreglass shredded his hand so bad the contest nurse said he was this close to losing his paw.

Pretty minor injury for ol Ross, who busted his ribs and was knocked unconscious on this third visit to Hawaii in 1987. In 1992, he was nearly despatched to heaven while surfing in Indonesia. That same year, he busted his back surfing Off the Wall and in 1998, him and his tow buddy Tony Ray got belted by a monster set at Outside Log Cabins and were eventually found, floating on their flooded jetski, outside of Haleiwa Harbour.

Yeah, and in 2019, Nazaré almost got him.

What impresses most about this particular injury, this event, is Ross’ response, calmly enjoying a heater while the nurse pulls the shards of fibreglass out of his myriad wounds, and which was posted on his son Kanan’s Instagram.

“Edit goes hard,” writes Nathan Florence.

Ross’ old sparring partner Rob Bain, who nearly drowned at the Billabong Pro at Waimea Bay in 1986 and who celebrated his new shot at life with a cigarette on the beach wrote,

“Marlboro light and a beer at the bay. Brings back memories!! Onya.”

Glory days.

 

View this post on Instagram

 

A post shared by Kanan Clarke-Jones (@kanancj)

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Famously sober Ben Gravy (pictured in Korea) with nothing to worry about.
Famously sober Ben Gravy (pictured in Korea) with nothing to worry about.

Korea moves to ban surfing while boozed

Blood alcohol level of at least 0.03 to be met with stiff fine.

It’s the day after Christmas, in America and Europe. The day after Boxing Day in Australia. Surfers in all lands attempting to rinse off the holiday overindulgences. A few martinis too many, or extra three bottles of wine, leading to a painful morning. The flickering hope, though, that maybe just maybe some saltwater and wave wiggles will help chase the poison away and return the body and mind to its stasis.

The tried and true hangover session.

Alas, come 2025, Korean surfers will have to tend to their delirium tremens in some other way as the proud peninsula is officially moving to ban boozed surfing. Starting on June 21, any boardrider on high-performance shortboard, single-finned glider or Steve Lis fish who is found to be in the lineup with a blood alcohol level of at least 0.03 will be fined 1 million won, or $685 USD.

The same penalty dished out to those who refuse the sobriety test.

Kim Jong-wook, head of the Coast Guard, told The Korea Times, “With the revision of the law, we will continue to identify unreasonable rules with regard to public safety and strengthen penalties realistically.”

Tipsy jet-skiing has been banned for years.

Now, if you were a surfer living in Land of the Morning Calm, would this specter be enough for a considered move north to the Democratic People’s Republic? Beloved YouTubber Ben Gravy explored that coastline a few years back though is famously sober so will have nothing to worry about in South Korea come summer.

While I have never, personally, visited either Koreas, I rank the national cuisine in my top five. Bulgogi, bibimbap, galbi, samgyeopsal, chimaek, tteobokki, jjambbong, doenjang jjigae, chuncheon dakgalbi, nakji bokkeum kimchi stew… I could go on and on, here.

Anyhow, did you have an enjoyable Christmas? Any New Year’s plans?

Share, please.

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Kelly Slater shines spotlight on Indonesian custom of kidnapping children at Christmas.
Little man gets put in Black Santa's sack, enjoyed immensely by Kelly Slater as evidenced by praise hands emoji.

Kelly Slater shines spotlight on bizarre Indonesian custom of “kidnapping” children at Christmas

“Black Santa reflects Indonesia's diverse cultural tapestry, where local traditions blend with those from colonial history.”

The world’s greatest surfer, Kelly Slater as if it had to be said, is a persecuted luminary, a mystico-elitist misunderstood by the common run of men.

The eleven-time world champion, who will turn fifty-three, in short course is always ahead of the curve, whether it be the dangers of blindly following government mandate, circumcision or matters of geo-political significance.

He will often hit back at historically inaccurate trolls, delivering the dagger blow, his coup de grace, with precise timing and accuracy.

Accusing me of being a racist? My girlfriend is Chinese. You’re on glue,” he told one troll. “You’re a miserable coward. And now you’re blocked.”

Earlier today, to mark the celebration of the birth of the Jewish rabbi Jesus in Judea 2024 years ago, Kelly Slater shared a reel of a child being “kidnapped” as part of Indonesia’s notorious Santa Black pranks, a legacy of its Dutch colonial masters.

In Indonesia, particularly in areas influenced by Dutch culture, Christmas celebrations include figures like Sinterklas (Santa Claus) and Zwarte Piet (Black Piet). Zwarte Piet is traditionally portrayed as Santa’s helper who, according to folklore, would take bad chillun away in his sack.

The little ones are not actually taken away, of course, but have the hell scared out of ’em and are subsequently rewarded with gifts or candy.

Kelly Slater enjoyed the show immensely as evidenced by his use of the praise hand emoji on his repost.

New York’s Hamptons, Beverly Hills in Los Angeles and Saint Tropez in France have a similar tradition. Children are taken away to what are called White Parties, although their fates remain, to this day, unknown.

Happy Christmas everyone!

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