"I don't carry because I want to. I carry because I have to, because I was taught to."
There was a time in the seventies where El Salvador was a top prospect on the global surf exploration depth chart. It was an unassuming lil country with point breaks that could make Trestles blush in envy, a land saturated in cobblestone with swells that would wrap into headlands and bays.
All this existed in a chaste and rustic playground where savvy and covert surfers indulged their off the lip appetites.
And then, well, Ronny Regan felt the specter of the sickle and the hammer looming a lil too close. The Red was swelling through central America. Fidelio Castro had already cast his influence and infiltrated Nicaragua. Salvadorian leftist insurgent groups united under the Farabundo Marti National Liberation Front, were actively trying to overthrow the U.S. backed military government.
What ensued was an uncivil war with mass civilian casualties. Mark Danner’s book, The Massacre at El Mozote, tells of instances where government troops would seize infants from their mothers, throw them in the air and catch them on their bayonets.
The war ended in 1992. Needless to say, plenty of lives, including surfers, were left in a state of forlorn limbo. The residual and collateral effects lingered for years. In a 2003 surf jaunt to La Libertad every citizen from abuelas to ninos were strapped with 9mm’s, carried in open holster form.
During the purchase of shark oil on the Libertad docks at dusk a local was asked why he carried. A wry and sullen smile crossed his face before he replied: “I don’t carry because I want to. I carry because I have to, because I was taught to.”
President Nayib Bukele was elected as president in 2019. He had seen enough of his peaceful and humble citizens not being able to access their beaches because they were gang controlled. He also saw the rolling lines of flawless surf stream in. Syndicates were round up and given permanent residence in cell block C. The Surf City signs were erected. People started coming back.
Moises Linares knows this story.
He’s been researching it for three years. His parents lived the aforementioned history. He negotiated and persevered the streets of L.A. Moises then graduated college and went on to become a play by play announcer of critical acclaim for countless professional sports teams in the D.C. area, including the Washington Commanders, Capitals and Wizards.
Few, if any, could tell the history of El Salvador surfing the way Moises could. His experience in broadcasting and his familie’s lineage in the country made him an apt candidate.
“I originally wanted to do a piece about soccer in El Salvador,” he tells me during our phone call while he was on a bus to the airport,”but (as far as sports goes) everything pointed to surfing. President Bukele pushed the surf narrative, but he didn’t start it.”
Through tireless research Moises learned the inception of surf in El Sal began with Bob Levy. “I wanted to go all the way back to the very beginning of the very first surfer. Everything pointed to Bob.”
“It took me a year to do it, but but after speaking with Kevin Naughton and Craig Peterson they agreed to join the project. They believe in it.”
We then speak of the civil war. The world called the Farabundo fighters communists. They saw themselves as people who were just trying to feed their families and who were tired of being under the suppression of an oppressive government.
“El Salvador had over four million visitors last year, in a country of 6.5 million people. There is no doubt that surfing is a major contributor to the country’s recent resurgence. It’s provided jobs and many non profits have begun to help young people know that these beaches and surfing can provide a positive influence in their lives.”
Moises has had interest in his project from outside parties. He’s had offers of monetary support from private donors. He refused them. Because he doesn’t want funds that come with strings attached.
“I want to tell this story from a pure perspective, without the influence of outside money. No one is getting paid on the project. They are doing it because they believe in the importance of the story we are trying to tell.”
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can i crowdfund my next feature film on here too?
Sure!
I hit you up about last last year Dez got no reply. I know you’re a busy man but its grumpy local approved
El Sal really wants that surf tourism, puts their money behind it, etc.
Big difference between my first trip there in late 00s and most recent one in 2023.
Has anyone ever met the famous “Super Cocoooooo” at K59? I have shirt with his face on it
theres an old guy who is the gate guard at k59 surf resort. cant remember his name. he was a high ranked soldier during the war. nice guy. said there’s no more Crocs in the area because they ate them during the war.
I have a guy helping me out with things that went through the war in El Salvador as a kid. He said there aren’t any monkeys there either for the same reason. He went through hell there but he is a very nice creative person. Here’s one of his paintings.
https://uploads.disquscdn.c…
I just saw a video on IG lately where the pulled a croc out of the water at one of the points. Same with croc sightings in south Nica.
Very interesting…
So did ya see any Strayan Cunts over there ?
Jesus Mary Joseph Gman! Some power in that read. The very thought of world injustice layed bare right there. This inhumanity sending tears to the highest heavens by these corrupt, depraved soldiers having sport while infants and mothers squeal and convulse in pain.
reading that book, The Massacre at El Mozote, turned my stomach. left an impression i’ll never forget. read it 20 years ago and was still able to call on the details today….. google Rufina Amaya.
“The perpetrators were members of a U.S.-trained Salvadoran counterinsurgency unit called the Atlacatl battalion. Fresh from a skirmish with the guerillas, they had entered El Mozote in December 1981, and begun a systematic campaign of rape, plunder, torture and murder.” Same shit, different decade. Fuck the USA.
yep… as ya get older and read a lil more,, u realize how tough it is to defend yr country,,, anyway, i hate to keep droppin these on u guys but also check Confessions of an Economic Hitman by john perkins,,,,, basically how CIA “jackals” coerce , cajole and swindle foreign countries out of their natural resources and become indebted to them. google Shell city in Ecuador… the petrol company that owned an entire section of the county and ran rampant through the amazon ,,,,, smh
Zinn’s “A People’s History of the United States” removed my indoctrination by US empire. I was at the WTO protests in Seattle in 1999–saw the documentary Zapatista in a small room, played by the directors. A country founded on genocide, extolling its ‘manifest destiny.’ A few dudes down here still swallow this shit, hook, line, and sinker. Crazy. And Shell–fuck them, too. #RememberKenSarwoWiwa
the fam in Buenos Aires loves a lil matzah with their asado !!!!!!
Good read Giancarlo. Good luck with it
boom
Shark oil and guns. Could be a solution to for the East Coast of Oz..
Top coating grommets boards with soap unbeknowns to them pre surf was always amusing. Although think thats called assault with a deadly weapon these days.
Hey, I want to be a cynical fuck, but this is awesome.
I luv happy endings!!
such fun ,,, …but ya gotta know how to negotiate ’em brah!!!!!!
Thats why i read
The art of the deal!!
Handy tips.
that was an entertaining read – but was it all the work of the ghostwriter?? more questions than answers
I havent read Kamalas book yet.
refuse to waste my time on such garbage. Art of the deal is a truly fascinating book. I loved it. And fwiw, the ghostwriter’s claims are mainly garbage too. The best parts of the book are the descriptions of how Trump negotiated purchases and finagled the zoning restrictions etc to get his properties built , all of which happened years before the book was being written. So maybe the actual words were the ghostwriter’s but he was describing trump’s actual work and thought process. I’ve never voted for the guy. But credit where it’s due etc.
don’t know if any El Sal War surf stories would be worthy without a mention of John Hoagland.
Legend!
im sure he’ll be on it,,, even post postproduction!!!!! remember that name from the Salvador movie with James Woods ….
Sounds like a worthy fund G.G.. Grew up on the Naughton/Peterson travel stories, and all the iconic photos of Naughton (jumping off the boat at Cloudbreak, peering out the tent at Abreojos, etc.) had my hometown shaper Bruce Jones boards in them. Hope this gets made.
he’s good kid dude. honest and doing it all on his own. he hadda overcome a bunch to be where he is (yes, we all did). his crew is working sans dinero too. this one hits a lil home cause a bunch of my students are from there and speaking to their families (reluctant to talk about it of course), the sh*t they had to go through and endure was gnarly. what happened there in the ’80’s was beyond a moral sin (yeah, everyone goes through their sh*t). im broke as f**k and i still kicked in 20, lol. anyway cool that Naught and Pete used yr shapers boards…. ps. that book by Mark Danner will make ya loose yer faith in humanity…….
Keep keeping it real GiGi!!
I like your stuff.
keepin it real never goes wrong down here,,, tough and worthy crowd to please but worth the responses (in any form!) ,,,,, ‘tanks bru
good stuff, goes down smooth like expensive whiskey and topics worth talking about