“A complicated, decent man.”
We’ll never know how close we came to losing the popular former CEO of the WSL and before that Oprah Winfrey’s right-hand gal, Erik Logan, in a horror surf crash in Fiji but if you read ‘tween the lines of Elo’s latest substack piece, oowee, it was close.
The accident occurred during Elo’s almost five-year tenure as pro surfing’s north star, which was cut short on a moody June day in 2023 and with no reason given.
Tony Robbins, the most successful motivational speaker to stroll among us, said, “Erik brings the lived experience, discernment, and execution that enable us to grow our impact, strengthen our foundation, and touch even more lives”
Anyway, on a big day in Fiji, the location isn’t named, but given Elo paddled out it was likely Restaurants, a surprisingly difficult left directly out the front of Tavarua’s beach bar and which explodes over a foot or two of water and sorta bends away making it real hard to surf.
Elo takes up the story:
I had been surfing long enough to be dangerous, which is exactly the problem. With most new things you take on later in life, you can quickly progress to a very pedestrian level. With surfing, you start catching some dribblers. (Those are very small ones) Then you start catching a few actual waves here and there. Then you move to real waves out in the lineup.
You begin thinking you have figured it out. Your ability improves, and your ego inflates right alongside it. The only difference is that your ego is always a few steps ahead. In my case, way ahead. Spoiler Alert– not good.
On a postcard November morning in Fiji, we had a very solid swell. Waves way above my pay grade. And staying on an island with really good surfers, people’s excitement was at an all-time high during breakfast. So here I was, frothed out of my mind, wrong board, ego in full, I paddled out. Convinced, today was going to be MY DAY!
I was going to make the turns, look for the photographer on the boat, and get my photo of me doing the GOAT Kelly Slater’s patented move. I was going to show the ocean who was boss. What could go wrong? Nothing! It’s MY day!
A lazy paddle on a solid wave. A takeoff under the lip, which is a total kook move, started a flurry of hell. A full tour across a reef that sliced the tops of my feet open. In a split second, underwater, disoriented, lungs burning, I genuinely thought, “This is it. I am going to die out here.”
After that first batch of reef tattoos, the waves behind the one I missed lined up. The next three, which were bigger, didn’t disappoint. A leash snap, board lost, tired from swimming, bleeding, coughing, and realizing there was no real way off this reef in the middle of the South Pacific.
I did not die. But my ego did.
Here is the thing about the ocean. Mother Nature always wins. The ocean always wins. Every. Single. Time. You do not negotiate with it. You do not outsmart it. If you take your ego into the water, the ocean will beat it out of you and wash it up on the shore so you can pick it up on the way back to your house.
Henceforth, when I go out, here’s the rule:
“Leave Your Ego on The Beach.”
Important lesson!
It wasn’t the first lesson Fiji would teach Elo.
“In any case, and back to the moment we almost lost Tom Carroll, there floated Logan in the dumbest spot. As it happens, he got picked up by the wave and nearly tossed straight into the head of the unsuspecting legend. The girth of Logan’s SUP would have certainly taken Carroll’s head right off. Even a glancing brush with the fully traction’d deck would have ripped all face skin to shreds.”
Sign up for Elo’s Substack here.
Other excellent stories include Riding the Waves of Passion and Profession, The Price of a Dream: are the sacrifices worth it and Trees Don’t Grow to the Moon.
Inspiring and essential etc.
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In the words of legendary Pom cricketer Sir Geoffrey Boycott “What a load of bloody roobish”.
What a stupid fuck.
Hear, hear!
Didn’t see the comment, but SC is a good fella to have around, keeps it interesting.
I might be the only one, but I didn’t mind writing – engaging story, told quickly without too much fluff, had me there in the impact zone with him.
He is supposed to be some wise CEO and he learned to read the room when he was in his 50s as the CEO of WSL? Jesus.
You gotta be a real jerkoff to be a beginner on Tavi during a run of swell and look around at those there with you and think “I can hang”.
I was going to make the turns, look for the photographer on the boat, and get my photo of me doing the GOAT Kelly Slater’s patented move. I was going to show the ocean who was boss. What could go wrong? Nothing! It’s MY day!
Is the newbie badge because of my lack of any real hardline discriminatory opinions?
Everybody got badged up. I guess it’s just the mods having some fun.
I got some sort of Woke badge, which seems strange even though I am, and always have been a liberal thinker. So not that strange. By next year you’ll be getting a Shredder badge.
For that I’d have to deign posting a photo of myself–gasp–surfing. Yeah naaaaaaaah bruz
Do i have a badge? I deff have a buldge
For sure.
This Cavvy?
no way people actually pay to read his crap
It may be a big thing in the corporate world. Some company, that’s doing well financially, is trying to figure out how to get the edge to take it to the next level and they buy a bunch of subs for their employees.
It’s just repetition of positivity for corpo folks. Like a surf coach telling their surfer to breathe deep and lock in. The surfer already knows that, but they still pay a guy to remind them.
What did he say to be banned ? Missed it
Not dissing Sasha i hope, dez wouldn’t approve of that
And I thought this was going to be about Fijian doctors having to remove something that he got stuck in his arse ….
Jeez, for moment there I thought I was reading a first person account from Jen See’s Surfline Man.
I feel for you. That’s trauma right there
Dear I am a Crayfish Popsicle
Please tell strayan cunt that we miss him dearly.
He needs to know how much he means to Seppotopia
You “fuks”certainly had a beach grit affair going..
release the strayan!
I paid my dues with Negs while receiving a few well deserved slap downs which helped me to understand the lineup. As for SC I love his wild shit but I am just an observer not the enforcer like Negs who must be respected on these hallowed pages!
So Elo will tell that story on the Tony Robbin’s tour to non surfers, who will think he is some sort of gladiator instead of the raging bitch boy we all know him to be.
I was there on Tavarua with Tom, Chas and Eric the evening before and was lucky enough to get this photo (that I’ve shown here at least twice) which tells the full tale of what happened first.
https://uploads.disquscdn.c…
That’s our Chas, doing the Lords work (just like his bible preachin’, bank robbin’, surfin’, skatin’ cousin) niiiiiiiice…
Strayan does seem like he’s truly good people. Shirt off his back kind of guy . I’d probably need bail money if I ever met up with him 😉
He reminds me of the last guy who got me thrown in jail- Dave Dowd who was one of the early pro snowboarders. I’d drink with SC, Negs and Dave any day.
Where is the substack titled “AI Ocean, and the death of the WSL” or “How my wandering hands unwove the tapestry of my career.”
Costa Rica. I wish Australia. But Pura Vida living isn’t too bad. All that pinto makes me have to read BG even faster during the morning commode visit.
Playa Grande?
Pelada/Guiones
Insane just replied to Barnacle then I scrolled down to see this. My first surf trip out of country my mom booked an all-inclusive right there 19 fucking 90. The drive was so intense once we got off the main paved road. As soon as we sat down for dinner my younger sister puked all over diner plate. All I heard ” I think I’m going to chedar !” Bwaaaaaap!
My old man and I had a ball through the whole shit show. Crying because I miss my boyfriend, sat in sun too long for too many days end up with sun blisters. We paddled that spot low tide/high tide boils and all. It spooked the fuck out of the old man. I was on a surf adventure no one in sight not a clue. Pure stoke! On the biggest day, surfed down in front of boats way outside solo. Forgot how I paddled out, when I got in the fisherman looked at me like I was crazy. All I know is I felt like Patrick O’Connell before Patrick O’Connell skipping down that beach to that all inclusive.. Somewhere there is a picture of my parents sitting at a table sunny and happy! They look good..
Must have been a dream back then. Except for those 1990 roads. They’re pretty good at sorting them iut twice a year now, but they just tear up fast again with all of the overloaded construction trucks.
Mate, the problem is I’m sick of seeing my name so often. You just said it half a dozen times. SC was 25 times a day lately. If you want to spend your days talking about me maybe just start a group chat with him.
Also you’re a total newbie here, so pay your dues in the lineup before you start demanding set waves.
Lol, that’s a pretty good representation.
Is it kind of like a Beetlejuice thing?
Negatron, Negatron, Negatron, Negatron, Negatron, Negatron, Negatron, Negatron, Negatron, Negatron, Negatron, Negatron, Negatron, Negatron, Negatron, Negatron, Negatron, Negatron, Negatron, Negatron, Negatron, Negatron, Negatron, Negatron, Negatron, Negatron
That’s 26, do I win a prize?
Yeah you get a prize alright….
At least I don’t have that nuclear explosion warning next to my name.
I kind of like it, but at least I don’t have that lame tower 9 badge next to mine.
That’s not even the real tower 9.
That’s good cause I’ve never been there.
&”[_”>_”>”[
…yet.
Mosquito badge!
Yeah yeah I know mate. He’s a chippie. “The moderator” is the plumber I’m referring to