Michael Ho except not.
So there I was in the lineup, minding my own business, not yelling at anyone, quietly judging those wearing wetsuits in 73 degree (Fahrenheit) water though, real quick, how many times does it take you to spell Fahrenheit without using spell check?
No matter.
Bigger fish to fry.
So it was actually yesterday that I witnessed the coolest takeoff in my life only to realize that an absolute kook was my James Dean.
There I was, in the lineup, minding my own business on a secret peak that breaks just off the main peak when a set rolled in. It wasn’t rolling to my secret peak, because it is a secret, but I looked over and watched a lone man take off in a pig dog stance. It was Michael Ho in real time. It was art. I wondered, as I watched him drop, “Why hasn’t the pig dog takeoff been explored further?”
It was incredible. Lone man all tuck-knee’d and hunched and epic.
I was mesmerized.
As I continued to watch, I realized the lone man couldn’t actually get to his feet and got mangled by the soft lip breaking over him.
For a brief moment, though, and to me, he was Michael Ho.
Have you ever been Michael Ho in your own mind?
Has anyone ever thought you were vibing Michael Ho in their mind?
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Do you always watch yourself on Surfline Rewind Chas?
How could it be that not one soft top manufacturer has not yet named a “model in its line” something as surf Orwellian as “The Pig Dog”?… or has this happened?
Admiring some cunt trying to pig dog a crumbler doesn’t inspire a whole lotta hope for you, Chas.
I get it – for a brief second etc etc but it wasn’t like the wave was ever going to barrel, right ?
Took me three times to spell fahrenheit right. Even with word correct…anyway..I remember as a kid I pretended to be Kevin Reed. Never thought about Michael Ho..maybe Archy doing a Layback Larry barrel ride or something. I still do a Larry once in awhile. Pig dogging yeah…but never thought about Michael Ho. I was never a ” cool kid ” .
Mike had that pipe backside grabrail down but for me it was Dane Kealoha who really was the pioneer of the Pig Dog.
He just crushed it backside.
If you are Goofy and live in the land of right points you need to conjure your inner Michael Ho. If not you can’t take off deep and get the waves away from those pesky regular foots.
at age 12 and surfing the annual menehune contest in la jolla shores, my friend actually beat M Ho in their heat. after going straight-off adolph longer ’cause the contest waves weren’t waves at all. he still brags ’bout it~
perpetual claim!