"You want to see a country that would be in free fall?"
Days ago, LA and San Diego surfers felt much fear after the president of the United States, Donald Trump, invited Iran to take out one, or both, beach towns at a political rally. “They can take out a city,” he told a crowd of adoring Nebraskans. “Let ’em take out Los Angeles, let ’em take out San Diego. This is a very small price to pay.”
LA and San Diego surfers weighing if they should sell homes and move to Orange County, a place that leans MAGA and that Trump would likely protect.
That fear, has today, turned into pride.
At a political rally in Texas, Trump returned to the LA and San Diego surfer theme, telling the cowboys, “I said it the other day. ‘Let them hit a missile into San Diego or Los Angeles on the way. Let them hit.’ You want to see a horror show? You want to see problems? Let them hit San Diego. Let them hit Los Angeles if you want to see some bad things happen. You want to see a country that would be in free fall? We’re not going to let that happen. We protect our cities. We protect our country. We’re not letting that happen.”
The destruction of LA and/or San Diego leading to the collapse of the entire nation?
What a difference two days make, surfers paddling out from Malibu to El Porto, Oceanside to Ocean Beach, this morning, with a whole country on their back.
Whistling Queen’s rock epic We are the Champions.
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Now Jack while I have a chance let me explain what I meant about never wanting to go back to Hawaii cuz of my experiences over there mate.
I grew up dreaming of going to the North Shore and particularly surfing Pipe. I loved the waves but fucking hated the locals only vibe over there. I am very polite and friendly in a lineup but that whole Aloha spirit is a fucking heap of wank and North Shore surfers are easily the biggest fuck load of of arrogant fuckwits I’ve ever met in me life.
This was the early 90s and they demanded complete respect over there which was fair enough but then acted like fucking idiots even when that was given and most just seemed to be frothing for a punch on no matter how ya acted. Worst of all as I found later later on they would turn up over in Fiji, Indo and other spots acting in the completely same fashion even though they weren’t locals and thousands of miles from their home.
Now I have a cuppla of very close mates from other islands over there and they have been essential in waves I have got to surf and so on and I will forever be grateful that somehow I got to meet them. They have have been to stay with me and I would love one day to get over and visit them but with the way life is turning out that probably won’t ever happen
So Jack in summing up I don’t hate Hawaii I just fucking despise the North Shore and the absolute band of very merry fucking idiots it produces and what it stands for. Aloha
Wait so have you been to other islands and surfed non-north shore areas? I’m sure hardcore NShore guys carry that attitude overseas, same way a dickhead in Malibu is going to be a dickhead in Bali. Also, if we’re comparing coastal surf zones, even the seppos agree that US doesn’t hold a candle to Straya. But I’ll take the innards of the US (midwest)over that desolate wasteland of dirt you cunts got anyday
Let me know when you’re ready to hear my response to your narrow minded, only seeking the cream statement about me Jack when you’re ready mate cuz this really gave me a chuckle haha.
Just so ya know know where I’ll be coming from this whole “waterman” and rounded surfer to me is some completely seppo load of wank, dreamt up by the American surf media cuz the waves are so shit over there.
I don’t fish, I don’t ride logs, I don’t ride weird, fucked up boards from the 70s, I don’t give a fuck about the history of seppos riding Malibu and so on. I just took up surfing cuz it was fun as fuck and me best mate at the time got me into it. I could not give a flying fuck about the true soul of surfing or how it does this and that. It just happens to be something that I got into, based probably on where I grew up and fell in love with it.
If I grew up somewhere cold with shit waves I would probably have never have started and me life would have turned out very different hahaha
and yet we still love you bro , ha ha
This is the funniest thread hahahaha. Jack you said Malibu is an iconic wave that should be on every well travelled surfers list and all I’m saying is I’m pretty well travelled and its nowhere near mine.
I’m not comparing countries I’m just saying why the fuck would I want to go there when I have heaps of better waves nearby? Honestly I couldn’t give a flying fuck about the history of the place and to me it’s just a cold, fat, average point full of absolute fuckwits so why would I bother. I used to spend all my hard earned coin trying to get to heavy tropical lefts that I’d grown up dreaming of surfing.
As for the rest of your points I will get to them later mate. Stoked your feeling so chill and relaxed after your massive holiday and trip. Fuck me mate most cunts I know round here are working long hours just to keep up with bills and to be able to afford to fill up their cars. Maybe I will treat me and mini to a 15 minute trip down the coast this weekend hahaha. Thank you Donny and America
am fucking drunk as shit, but fwiw fuck you cunt, come surf it and then comment you piece of Aussie shit!!!
Hahahahaha fuck yeh Rocks yeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeew
really do love you brother, rain or shine, blasted or sober – mainly blasted lol
Hahaha love you too bruzzy, have fun
Get off the diesel. For the sake of your daughters daughters daughters daughter or son whatever
We are all absolutely fucked mate and its all due to that fat orange cunt the seppos keep voting in haha
If they didn’t import rifle scopes off temu he wouldn’t have got it in the ear. And I’d have fuck all cartoon content. The good with the bad I spose.
Strayans always look for the bright side of things mate
Keep it up kook.
Think I’ve never worked?
Think my trip wasn’t a working one?
You think if I had the choice I wouldn’t go somewhere I’ve never been instead of going broke dealing with life’s obligations that happen to be in the spots I travelled to? Fucking softie, you couldn’t last one day in my shoes, and you would crumble doing half the shit I’ve done to get where I am at.
Go wank yourself you pretentious fuck.
You can be a regular foot who grew up in California, loves point breaks, loves the history and culture of surfing, and still not give two shits about Malibu or Swami’s or whatever the fuck. I’ve never surfed Malibu, never will, and wouldn’t care if it was gone.
To set things straight, everyone BURNS everyone here too now
Just another thing imported from America
America is SO AWESOME Just like Disneyland
At least you are willing to admit it…
To set things straight, everyone BURNS everyone here too now
Just another thing imported from America (North and South)
America is SO AWESOME Just like Disneyland
I need to pay to piss and shit? But why?
I hope the rest of the world doesn’t take situational monetary advantage of simple human bodily functions?
USA! USA! USA!
I’m sick of the America bashing… the list….
ATACMS ( one in the backyard would be cool
Jack Daniels…
3. Robert Johnson
4…..oldest partridge family sista
5. STP stickers
6. The Manhattan ( drink )
Marsha was a dreamboat.
am a fuckin’ moron … left my phone in an uber this morning on the way to a big deal client meeting, couldn’t deal with it for a bit bc of meeting , turns out uber driver doesn’t speak English so when call him via the app have to deal with some fuckin delayed translator app bullshit – and don’t get me wrong , am all for the immigration of hard working folks but god damn what a clusterfuck trying to speak to this guy – and then watching on my MacBook via the find my phone app and the fuckin’ car is going further and further away (I’m in sac town), finally seeing him approach San Fran and I just say fuck it and remotely erase the phone (also check all accounts accessible on phone to make sure no funny business)
Go eat at a great spot in Sac (Ella’s), drink who fucking knows how many old fashioned’s , colleague finally cuts me off and pays bill and pushes me into uber to get the fuck back to hotel and now I’m back and have to figure out how to fucking check in for flight in the morning the old fashioned way
Fuck!!! Being 50+ and fucking senile sucks balls
so you didn’t get the phone back?
nope , maybe it’s returned in middle of night but have a 530 am flight out. Plus erased it all , so going to find a store tomorrow and get new one I guess. Since I own my business I can expense it with no problem , but just a fucking shit storm today worrying about whether the fucking uber driver is a hack wizard who’s accessing my bank account.
Probably just a hard working guy who took a ride to San Fran, but who fucking knows – plus am fairly drunk right now , so maybe take everything with a grain of salt lol
Glad that you’re in good spirits, Rocks.
You’re a level headed chap. Lord knows why you enjoy chatting with some of these other whackos below the line. Two words about their mushburger of a wave and they’re ready for jihad (Hello NSA. Fuck you too)
Hope you make out well in the mornin. Drink water and two Tylenol and they’ll help prevent a hangover. Vitamin B1 patches as well, but it’s too late for those now.
Rocks is one of the most solid commenters here.
For sure. And no sexplora book to flog.
Joanie’s a bit of a thick cunt alright.
He’d actually make some $$$$$ taking rich cunts to sex havens and money from a horno book. Ohh well, stupid is as stupid does …. No hope for the cunt.
thx Gwen. Went down to the hotel bar after that last post and drank more bourbon so really about 16 sheets to the wind right now. Jesus fucking Christ, all over a lost phone!! ha.
Love you all !! Even the fucking cunt.
Thata boy. That sucks about the phone. I left my phone in a Uber a few months ago too after a night out. I think I was too consumed by grabbing my togo order of taco bell and just forgot about the phone. Get into bed and wife goes where is your phone? Uhhh. I think its in the uber. Turns on wheresmyiphone and its pinging around town. Guy won’t pick up phone. Jump in car and try and track him down. Gotta get him before he heads home as they all come up from down south. No luck. Get on freeway and head south. Finally catch him about 45 mins south and he gets fidgety as he sees us tailing him. finally gets off and pulls over. Opens window and just hands me phone. Fucker. Wife surprisingly not mad or holding over my head. I married well.
She’s keeping that one in the bank for just the right argument.
Thx B, my soul mate on here, among others (looking at you James Bond) hopefully don’t say anythign too stupid on here tonight lol.
Did have a fucking great meeting on a big fucking deal that would be fucking great for my business, but all I could think about was how fucking stupid I was to fucking leave my fuckng phone in a fucking uber so fucking fucked up the whole fucking day and fucking drank my fucking misery away tonight.
But do love all you fucking cunts, even the cunt, and just remember that no matter what I remember tomorrow you all are my fucking ride or fucking dies, lol, preferably ride not die, ha
even you longtom, with your fucking “1000 words or less or I won’t read it’ bullshit, ha !!!
Congrats on meeting. That whole scenario sounds so stressful. xoxox
p.s. good meeting
Fuck I feel you.
This trip I had every last important document, key, and device along for the ride due to the nature of my travel.
It almost broke me keeping it all together.
was down in hotel bar just now already totally slayed and started drinking some more – some random dude sits next to me, turns out he’s spent a bunch of years in Brazil, I spent a few weeks there 30 years ago, so we start chatting about it, fucking cunt is all over the politics and indigenous people stuff , feels like I’m talking to the mother fucking president of all things righteous and lovely.
But probably just the fuckng bourbon. Love all of you, peace out !!
It was bexy.
fucking love bexy .. no one else has given me more shit on here, but love it, at least he’s giving it straight up no chaser , ha — and that cunt and longtom, fucking Aussies claiming everything down under is greater — maybe so but can’t stop defending the homeland .. realize our waves are shit, except H bay, but what do you expect, are we going to roll over and admit snapper is better than the queen ??? hell no!!! fuck you cunts, the cove rocks!!!
Uncrowded waves are the new goal….
Spot me when the Helicopter came
Fuckn HeliCopter ruining my paddle
How in fucks name is he allowed to fly that low ?
It’s okay when they are looking for the bodies.
Yeah I’ve never had uncrowded waves before…
Yeah yeah I know,uncrowded beachies are a dime a dozen…
They are Jack
That is the funny thing mate… Hahahha
So true.
Literally thousand upon thousands of miles of em….
Nobody out,and pure glass
Too sharky
Well, at least my name will be on the news for a couple of days.
Got my new blue and orange camo 7’0″ in the water for the first time this morning.
So you’re colour blind…not a bad thing.
be easy to find at Cash Convertors if someone nicks it
Did it keep you hidden?
yeah, I was invisible
How do you find it when you want to go surf ?
actually sounds pretty sick , upload some pics ??
Everyone gets a wave in WA, but it might cost you an arm or a leg…
Please notice the respect in the lineup,and nobody is in the way.
It is ordered like a Slip and Slide at an amusement park…
“You’re NEXT, GOOO”
Wasn’t Taj and friends blowing through lineups on skis?
Lotta respect goin on there…
When was this?
I think that was a Gold Coast thing?
How about pics of a day when I was surfing with fucking two ins and a HELI?
They are shit 2MP days
Cyclone swell way back when on the West Coast.
Dude it like that most the time here with crystal clear waters
Check the cams
Yes I bet it is a little slice of heavan.
If I do go to Oz the NW coast is where I want to go..
Cool Jack, but it is a LONG way from the hospital
Maybe start in the SW first
The farther the better.
Niiice. Too big
Too sunny…too injured….no WiFi
If you get called into a wave, you GO
Pulling back is worse than the stack
Too noisy
Sure is purdy…
Fuck I’m not even two minutes in and I’ve seen two blatant burns.
Too jungley…no WiFi
No mercurachrome…
It all sucks.
I’m thinking of moving to the mountains…
At least there are no Jellyfish in the hills
But the Bears say “Hello”
Why the fuck have we not domesticated BEARS yet?
Bears hibernate in the winter.
The struggle is real
While everyone else is swinging dicks about the best places to surf…
This is where our VALs go to surf in Western Australia. Taj used to watch the old fools from his balcony…
Meanwhile there are another 50+ places all within 30 minutes…
Many uncrowded now thanks to old mate Shark
Deivid Silva should qualify for the CT’ 2027.
Wow
A lot of dick swinging going on today
Yes, Aussie waves are better than Californian ones.
Though personally rather surf a shittier wave with a few good mates than a top class wave with a pack of jerks I didn’t like.
And I don’t like most people who ‘surf’.
Maybe I’m old and boring, who cares, luckily I’ve had class waves with only a few good mates in the past, which seems is a rare thing these days listening to everyone here.
More importantly, my watch was put in jail cos FedEx and/or their NZ agents don’t deliver to P.O.Boxes and I unwittingly gave my farm letterbox address (which is a km away from, and out of sight of my house, which I’ve had numerous items stolen from in the past and the reason I have a P.O.Box) to a person of indeterminate nationality on the phone a few days ago to try and resolve it, instead of saying I’d just come and pick it up from the depot next time I was in town an hour away.
Now it’s being lugged around half the country by an independent sub sub contractor who may or may not deliver it today, or at all.
And it says has been delivered already.
So now I’m sitting in my car at my letterbox with a beer reading all this stuff and thinking I’ll have to go back to the house and get a sandwich and a 6-pack, then back out to sit beside my letterbox for the rest of the day.
And that is the reality of country living haha…
If you can’t trust your mail in your own letterbox then your country is in the toilet. Particularly in remote and rural areas. What’s up with that? Heavy.
Where do you live man? There are fuckn crack heads EVERYWHERE NOW
They do the rural jobs to get the rifles
we all realize Aussie spots are better , all of us just so fuckin’ jealous , what do you expect , surrender ??? fuck no, but realize that we all wish we had west oz in our backyard , fuckin’ barrels around every corner , etc , etc , grew up takin off under lips , give me a spot that will reward that skill rather than close out on me after 3 seconds , fuck yeah
Maybe a lockable mailbox?
Time is overrated.
Time, love, happiness and health are the only true currencies.
Thinking of starting a cult built around that mantra. Apparently the tax breaks are worth it.
Haven’t read that mag in years.
Is that the one where you fold the back pages?
Or am I going MAD?
Both aren’t bad
It is. Like the Surfers Journal.
Got the latest issue today and can’t wait to see what my premium subscriber gift is this year.
we get the ‘delivered with signature’ and then ZERO sign of the parcel. then we have to go fucking looking for it with the postie, courier or whoever.
some deliveries just never make it in the right van, and that’s that.
companies we buy off usually fire another one out as it is the courier they chose.
Oh yeah I forgot to put down Victoria Australia so mines probably in Botswana
San diego, los angeles , san francisco, what is this, Mexico?
Juarez proper.
The Orange Man has ensured a midterm slaughter directed at Republicans.
universal surf language: “yeah, I got it good before it got crowded.” no need for commenters to give a date and place.
Nah fuck that, date, time, place, and maps as well.
Here hope this helps…
old u-tube 50s clip on early Cali surfing starts w/ Pleasure Point, then runs south thru The Rinc, Seal Beach, Sano, Oceanside and ends at San Miguel. Always wondered where our older mentors figured out where to surf. Didn’t see that movie!
Don’t know how they found Hussong’s Cantina.
On a late 70s boat (Pandora: a 78-foot bug-eyed oyster dredging ketch) relocate and re-finishing job in Ensenada Harbor, managed to close dat place 6 weeks in a row. Rocket fuel?
No one does memoirs quite like you legend…
I’m starting to believe it’s really you.
Seeing our Rosy Hodge present a live interview with Mike McCready at Ohana Fest 2026, in Dana Point California, last weekend, reminds me of when McCready gave a great performance of Yellow Ledbetter on the Howard Stern Show. Reminds us all of our favourite guitar performances.
Glad to see Rosy getting interesting work so close to her home.
You’d think after all these years I would remember the lyrics. I certainly looked them up enough times to decipher Eddie’s marble mouth.
He often changes them up when singing it live, as well. Not that it matters, as the changed lyrics are also garbled. I figure that he likes that it’s open to interpretation.
” Ebony’s broken whoa whoa that’s the day….
Yert Ebony’s broken whoa whoa Saturday..”
Exactly.
Fuck this, I’m going with memoirs…
Malibu, almost 4 decades since my last time. Not sure if it was the more rare hurricane swell direction and period, but it looked way better than it used to be, especially First Point. Crowd the same size but made up of younger hipster type renaissance longboarders who were just as annoying as the old crew used to be.
All in all an iconic spot that should be on every well travelled surfers bucket list.
My claim is the Olympics should be there instead of Lowers, at least from what I saw…..
every time I pull up there I convince myself to go somewhere else. But then again, I gleefully subject myself to the chaos of a certain other right point a little further north , so maybe some hypocrisy at play ??
Not really, it is a brutal slog for those not willing to get ruthless.
My daughter gave it a go and couldn’t even get a one footer out of the pack.
Came in saying she would never surf there again, so I grabbed her soft top, paddled to the top and just burned the fuck out a couple guys trying to yell and scream me off and rode it all the way in to the beach, just to show her how it was done.
Just curious if your point is Leo Carrillo, cause that place can be more annoying than the Bu.
Big Dume was always my fave.
Also fuck keeping these spots on the down low, it’s fucking LA after all.
Burning anyone on a soft top is Legendary.
It felt so right…
No, it’s not.
Burning anyone is always a cunt act.
Normally yeah but at Malibu that is what you do if you want a wave, otherwise you get nothing.
This is the lesson I taught my daughter, who was too timid to just go.
I’m still not sold. The person you’re burning might’ve waited patiently for hours and thought they’d finally been rewarded for being a decent type of surfer.
Burning is never cool. Unless it’s to settle the scales of surf justice.
Settling the scales is exactly what he did .
Exactly, and to be sure no one is out there patienly waiting their turn, especially the clowns I burned.
Yeah I grew up on a Point . Crowded most days . We used to burn each other just for practice . You don’t become a Pro by being nice in the water. I don’t give a shit what anyone says it’s just the way it is. Jimmy Slade is proficient in snaking people.
Word….
You’re a pro?
Nah.
Just say you are, that’s all you need.
That’s patently untrue.
Burning people and poor surf etiquette is cultural and nothing to do with a surfer’s ability. Many places with good surfers are shitfights but that’s correlation, not causation.
I’ve been vibed by absolute gronks in shitty waves and also shared drop-perfect waves with the semi-local rippers who just happened to be top tier international pros and they were completely respectful.
It’s too easy and convenient to attribute being a cunt to external forces. Doesn’t make it true.
Depends on who you talk to that’s for sure, as well as , I will admit it’s not a blanket statement. Clearly Subjective. Try not to overthink it .
Yet burning people and poor etiquette exist all over the world, and people from your side of the continent are masters at it. I forgot to mention that the two guys I burned had taken off in front of 4 other guys, so your corelord patiently waiting for his wave thing wasn’t a thing.
Truth be told, I burn someone about once every couple years or so, and it is always justified. In this instance it was the old when in Rome, do as the Romans.
Sometimes it’s called for.
“It was bombin’ yeah?
……..myself as well. I also hate driving to the beach if I can avoid it. Which you really cant around here….Miramar? ha oh well, nice weather here.
I am not a Malibu local but I love the wave. I completely avoid first point and just stalk the holes in the crowd that still have waves between second and third. It’s a strange crowd dynamic where if you don’t get any waves the crowd will brutally compete with you but if you’re in rhythm you’re Moses and the crowd is the red sea. Almost the opposite of lowers.
I actually think it’s easier to get good waves at Malibu than it is at lowers just because most people out there are not very good surfers.
Those holes up the point are the way.
Are we talking about Peggy Gordon?
That’s really how it is at most spots I’ve surfed. I discern early who’s gonna go and who’s gonna spectate..try to anyway.
Malibu: The heinous crowds of Snapper , the boring walls of Crescent and the average surfing ability of a Spanish surf school all rolled into one.
And isn’t it polluted as fuck whilst being surrounded by multimillion dollar plastic-fantastic celebrity types with gated-community homes built right on the brown sand abutting the cold, grey water?
Thats a very hard pass from me.
Ah the half empty glass kind of guy.
You ever surfed there?
Maybe you should give it a try before you pass judgement.
Even then you miss the point, that if you really want to call yourself a well travelled surfer, then any wave should be on your bucket list, if only just once.
You are probably right. No doubt I’d enjoy the experience just for the fact that it’s so exotic through sheer contrast to anywhere around here. Travelling can make the mundane and ordinary seem strangely appealing.
But on paper it looks very much fucked.
You ever surfed Crescent Head?
It’s pretty fucked alright, rose colored glasses and knowing you can go home to greener pastures helps.
Oz as a whole still on the list.
Not a cheap trip from here.
Aussies typically give this joint a wide swerve. Malibu doesn’t hold much hope.
It was way better than that, albeit not as pretty.
You’re fishing for it so I’ll just say it. Australia has much better and more consistent waves than California.
Malibu is still a really good wave. It has a ton of speed that you can tap into. The videos you see of guys longboarding the inside section of first point are sort of misleading.
Nah, not fishing for it. Instead making the point that chubby right points are not that appealing even when they’re pretty. A chubby right point that is cold, grey, polluted and somehow simultaneously kooky and pretentious, is not bucket list material.
BTW….Im very, very far from the type to sell Creso as a surf spot but it gets way better than the vid above. It’s actually a really good place to get your skull caved in by a recent beginner who is in possession of both a longboard and a reckless disregard for the other surfers in the lineup.
Fair enough, but saying “Most Aussies” is a bit of a shit cunt call.
Most “Aussies” would be selling lattes with almond milk, due to the crowd demands
I’m genuinely struggling to think of a wave I would like to surf less and I’ve travelled to a fucking heap of surf spots around the world
Yeah, the bucket list surf spot thing is pretty worthless in my worthless opinion (no offense Troll). Hard to understand paddling out somewhere like Malibu/Honolua Bay/Rincon/Snapper when it’s packed to the gills just to say you surfed there.
Because if and when you get a legit one at it is worth the effort.
If you don’t get one at least you tried.
If you don’t even try then better to take up golf.
I’ll paddle out in crowds if its pumping and worth the hassle to jag one, not gunna waste my time at some c grade point like Malibu when I have at least 10 better points within an hour of my place
Far from C grade, especially this year, but you do you and spout off about places you’ve never surfed.
All the footage that comes from there looks average as fuck mate
You guys have much better waves than we do. It feels like you guys are trying to debate us on this but I don’t think anyone here would disagree.
Most of the footage is of guys longboarding the inside section of first point. It’s easy to get the wrong impression from that. You generally don’t shortboard in there unless it’s firing and you’re able to connect from second. When I surfed it for the first time after maybe 5 or 6 years I was surprised how hard the waist high waves were pushing.
It comes down to this, I like to surf as many different spots on as many different craft as possible, because it makes you a well rounded waterman and broadens your horizons.
You sound like you only want the cream of the crop, riding a narrow bandwith of surfboard.
All the spice and variety of a Mick Fanning all white interior decoration paint scheme.
Sounds like you enjoyed your trip although I wouldn’t wrap up Waikiki and Malibu in a bundle and call it broadening horizons.
It wasn’t a surf trip.
But I made as much as I could out of it
And if you’ve never surfed Waikiki or the South Shore in general, especially when it is pumping, then your horizon line is at flat earth level…
Not knocking the South Shore or Waikiki, always a fun place to be. And apparently my horizon is far from flat.
Queens on a big old red glider cuz dats where da surfing thing started… had to pay tributes. Oh, and a couple other waves around dat harbor there that were kinda firing and not that crowded at certain times of day. Shooootz!
it’s a very b-grade point, at best, compared to here mate.
no bottom tension at all.
More offhand shit spouting.
Unlike you, I was there that morning, and I can tell you now it was going off, at least at first light, fast, hollow and winding all the way through.
And while you may not believe it I know what perfect waves look like.
Like I said in my post for whatever reason it was better than it used to be.
And to be clear, an iconic surf spot does not have to mean world class, in fact wave quality has much less to do with it than vibe and history.
If all you want to do is compare shit to your spots and bag on wave quality you are missing the whole point of my memoir. They are simply on the ground observations from places I’ve been.
You should know, you’ve written a few.
where is this memoir Jack- I missed it?
Don’t get your gander up mate- I enjoyed my surfs at Malibu- but it’s a log wave.
If you can please not share it publicly, as it isn’t mine to put out there at large, I reckon you should ask Stu to show you the shark clip I sent him recently.
Angry fish!
Maybe read the post and look at the picture?
It’s recollection of a recent visit, and again an iconic surf spot, mainly for its vibe and history.
If you don’t get the meaning of that then you are a hopeless cunt.
The place ain’t all it’s cracked up to be but does go off on south swell. I said it before but, Malibu is famous due to it’s longboard heritage and place in the history of surfing, not necessarily because it is some godly wave. It ain’t worth the effort in my mind.
We get it bro. There are great waves where you live. We’ve heard it more than we need to from you.
There are great waves where I live but you don’t see me getting all negative nancy on every other spot on earth because of it…
I get your point. But of all those spots ( I haven’t surfed snapped though ) Honolua is the one that is worth the effort. I spent 2 winters there and surfed it every swell. Incredible spot and much, much heavier than I anticipated.
It’s a sick wave but the crowd can be intolerable at Cave. Coconuts and such up the point not too bad but the place is all about Cave. Much like G-land is Speedies or bust.
not sure what scale we’re using here, apparently every Aussie point other than Crescent is a 10 and all other spots in the northern hemisphere several notches down.
but yeah, would say H bay even if not the cave is definitely ‘not too bad’
G Land is definitely not just about Speedies.
Honolua….now that joint looks iconic / bucket list.
We have visited our differences in opinion about G-land enough times already. You see it one way, I see it another. Differences in Indo experiences I’d assume.
it is … no doubt about it. Even if you don’t get slotted up top.
Made the mistake of surfing it on a massive day once. Literally 12’ plus with a lot of North which made it try to close out.
Paddled out from the beach deep inside the Bay on an 8’2” Mark Angell gun. Shitting myself very real possibility of drowning.
6 guys out. Gerry Lopez, Victor Lopez, Mark Anderson, Fruitbean and a couple others.
Caught an insider ( 8’ er ) and paddled in and went drinking in Lahaina.
epic , you need to tell that story in more full on here one day. Surfing it on any kind of day is a full on existential experience , the mother fucking bay is like god’s gift to surf spots , and regardless of where you catch the wave it feels like you were born to surf there …. haven’t gotten it nearly as good as you have , but Jesus Christ , if there’s a wave that makes you feel like surfing is religion, that’s the one …. fucking love it with every atom in my body.
They made a song about that…
Got my best tube of the year late Nov 2026 Honolua local said and I quote ” You just got a fucking gift!”
Nov 2026?
I lived there for a few years and the place is magical, I’m just saying its fucking hard to get a wave there. That goes double for getting one at the Cave section and your likely getting burned if you do get one (hence the guy telling you that you got a gift). Other than Cave, it’s an average wave for Maui. Coconuts and up that way are okay but get sectiony and unpredictable. That’s all just my opinion, no need for anyone to get all mad and worked up.
For as many spots as you’ve purportedly surfed there are 10,000 more you haven’t.
Like your Hawaii ventures for instance, saying you’ve been there and only have surfed the North Shore and more so Sunset to the Bay, then saying it sucks and would never go back, speaks volumes.
Oohhh good surfboarding there too…lots of options from da bike path. What about da other Nor chor on that older island?? No cameras!! Don’t get me started on a certain beach break on da West-siiide that produces below sea-level spitting dragons…
Talk about another iconic spot.
Blinding white sand, crystal blue water, smoking offshore on the trades, and a perfect A-frame with bone snapping power and sharp as fuck reef.
The whole experience is a full on sensory overload.
You know what I’m talking bout…
I think Y’all are talking about 2 different spots. The one stickman mentioned is a sand bar right. Your spot is, I believe, a few miles up the coast.,
Yeah I see that now.
Range. Incredible wave
If you look at the numbers Malibu’s crowd is a nightmare. If you take a qualitative look at the crowd it’s an opportunity.
I’ll revisit , can’t be worse than the cove on a good day, right ??
fun longboard wave- not a good wave for modern shortboards
Mate I was there, it was good, highly shortboardable, and even barrelling.
Again more shit spouting for no purpose from someone who wasn’t there.
Like El Sal for instance, a wave you hate but have never actually surfed as far as I know.
You call it shit, but literally everyone I know who has surfed it, most highly qualified to make a judgement, say it is a pretty good wave.
Your cognitive bias means that unless you have surfed it and have insights to provide, your opinion means shit.
Don’t know why I even respond to you.
take your word for it.
Never seen a photo or video of Malibu barreling but maybe it did.
surfed it a bunch of times and had fun, but it’s not a shortboard wave imo.
No idea why you are getting so worked up about this.
Just different opinions.
Honestly I wish I could articulate why you guys get under my skin.
Gonna have to pen it and put it in a piece below the line.
no worries mate, wish you the best.
not meaning to wind you up.
so much love , leaving me teary eyed
actually just glad to see some surf banter below the line, been a minute
I’m totally not going to take the credit for shifting the convo from political shitfights to surf spot blood feuds…
Bout time this place got back to surf talk. Love talking story with the Boys.
Yeah L.T. does have a way of speaking down to us Yanks but he usually keeps it classy. And will admit when he’s wrong.
Not to get too sappy but I had some tough times in the past few years ( divorce, health issues, losing friends) and the camaraderie here helped me keep a smile on my face. I appreciate that.
Glad to hear you are getting through it.
Yep life will kick you in the teeth. We just lost a good friend few days back, type a guy always stoked to see you with a killer smile. Years back rocked up to proper Rodanthe swell with my youngest and Matt was fresh out of the water going on about his new board. Handed it over and goes you need to ride it. With in the hour had the board locked into a drainer pulling across the bar with enough room inside for the on lookers ie.including brother in law, “Child Pirate’s father “, nephew, and son to witness my dance moves..
Epic!
Why is Kanoa surfing in the Portugal Challenger Series event?
What’s his beef with up and coming surfers?
Wish Kelly would wildcard himself into the event, just to take out Kanoa.
Isn’t Kanoa Potuguese now?
Japortugemerican…by way of Huntington beach.
I used to have this view as well but you got to beat the best to be the best. Most of them will just get on tour then fall right off anyways.
You know the tour is fucked these days when miggy poops has a genuine shot at being world champ. No offence to him cuz he seems a lovely fella but fuck me its hardly what I’d call progress
Miggy seems a pleasant fella and he rips but I’m not that hard behind him.
If he was Aussie I’d be cheering him on hard.
the old size limit on photos was 5MB. The new limit is 2MB.
can we get that changed, as very few photos are are 2MB or less. I have a beautiful photo of a new Trump statue that I want to share, as we’re talking about the man himself. Much thanks. You fellas are doing a swell job of making small improvements every day.
I can’t see replies to comments as yet, in one single place, but we’ll get to that eventually. Seeing where people replied to a comment you made is what keeps the convo going and fosters community.
It also won’t accept .wpev photo files, whatever that it, whereas we used to be able to link those.
You mean this one?
have found that if you screenshot a pic on your phone and then upload the screenshot, works better / the image data size is much smaller , I guess bc a screenshot doesn’t include all the hidden metadata
I had to do that with the old Disqus when 1 out of 10 of my older photos was somehow over 5MB. I googled how to make them smaller and they taught me the screenshot trick. But I did it here for the photos which are .wpev format and the screenshot was over 2MB. They tend to be closer to 4MB.