Something to think about.
Horror stories of folk being caught in rips and sucked out to sea are, unfortunately, not uncommon. When they come across my transom, I am very sad for the victims, if they don’t make it, or very happy for them, if they do, but quietly think all are not exactly “ocean people.”
Surfers learn from a very young age to paddle, or swim, parallel to the shore until clear of the pull, then to paddle in. We have, each of us, been caught in some form of rip but the story of San Diego’s Luke Jackson should encourage us all to quit, or at least you.
Jackson, who appears to be upper-20s/lower-30s has been surfing since the age of 9 and also played much water polo. And yet, on Saturday morning, a big ol’ dumper ripped off his leash leaving the hirsute fella surfboard-less. As he explained to San Diego’s NBC affiliate, “The surfboard’s gone, and I know it’s going into the wall of water, and I just started swimming. When you’re going under the pier, the rip current is ripping super hard. I was getting scared of hitting the pilings and I was getting sucked out really, really far.”
A pal on the beach called 911 and lifeguards kept eyes on Jackson, though he made it back to the beach under his own power.
Braden Morgan was also interviewed. He lives in Arizona, did not paddle, and said, “I know these people out here have probably been surfing this for quite awhile. Props to them to be able to surf that.”
Props to us, yes, but also quitting time for you?
More as the story develops.
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My mate Loz on the shred.
fuck, Morrocco looks like an absolute shit show.
anyone been there recently?
I fucking hated the joint when I was there 25 years ago mate so fuck knows what its like now!!
where did you surf?
I’ve been to over 80 countries. Might be 90 by now.
Morocco is full of dishonest fucking assholes, I can’t say a single good thing about them.
I went there during eid, watching blood pour down gutters while rag heads wandeed around covered in blood all over their white robes and leather sandals.
It’s fucking bronze Age stuff.
Some interesting things to see. I enjoyed sleeping in a tent in the Sahara, Marrakech and fez were interesting places and Essaouira and chefchaouen were interesting. But the people, I wouldn’t pisson them if they were on fire. Way worse than Egyptians.
you just have to know where to go….most spots are now Euroed out in Winter…unless bigger…I loved the joint a couple of years ago…….but I dressed as local/speak French…cultural awakening
That was sick mate, thanks
I enjoyed that. TY
shocker of a board!
If y’all are mates then I seriously have a different opinion of Laurie now
how could he be friends with a bloke that rides a orange and blue camo step up?
end days
Old sleazy cunt Russel Brand got ten years then, I would if the “Tahiti Four” were following his trial? Oh Dez I wanted to say I really enjoyed that comments section on the Double Jon article so cheers heaps for that brother
Like I keep on telling yous Seppos are gunna Seppo. Reading these articles from Chas its becoming increasingly obvious that surfing isn’t for you lot over there and I reckons yous need to concentrate more on those classic and traditional American activities that yous actually excel at.
I’m thinking along the lines of eating heaps too much junk food, shooting each other and voting in geriatric old shit cunts as President. I have fucking heaps more of these suggestions so let me know if yous need anymore ideas xx
Fuck it here’s three more for me dear seppo mate 007 to enjoy in the morning. Flying massive Stars and Stripes flags at your homes so everywhere looks like an army camp. Playing shit sports that no other cunt on the planet cares about then calling it “The World Series.” Hating using bad language but talking fucking heaps too loud and excitingly so yous all sound like the Ned Flanders of surfing AKA Joey Turd balls haha yeeeeeeeeeeeeeeew.
Please note everyone this is just banter and I am joking, before every soft cock starts accusing me of being every ism under the sun!!
Please…please..go away
We’re better at not being eaten by sharks
How easy is surfin!
Even lumberjacks can do it !
Baseball is widely considered by sports scientists and analysts to have the technically hardest single skill in professional sports.
Bahahahahha by which experts, your old man and your best mate who one day will tell us the real reasons behind Donnys 48 excursion into Iran? I see your Fanta Menace King has now suddenly announced that war is over today. Perfect time for you to give us the deep, secret intel to why it happened in the first place oh enlightened one with “inside” info bahahhhahaha
You ever learn how to read…or the art of conversation?
Deeks made a comment about how easy surfing is….I responded with a factual comment of how difficult baseball is (based on your “shit sports” comment)….and you respond with a comment about Donald Trump.
You get it Stupid Cretin? there’s flow to conversation, intelligent banter.
Seriously…you failed at what could be considered one of the easiest sports in the world.
You really are one of the dumbest people that has ever existed on Beach Grit…or possibly the planet. Fuck…you’re stupid.
Hey, I have an idea….let’s change the subject…..Let’s talk about your daughter the way you talk about women and girls? how’s that go for ya’, you sleazy, immigrant sex slave whore fucker?
Bahahahahaahahaha. Why don’t we talk about what a fucking lying, hypocritical dog of a cunt you are first mate? I saw your post about how someone would have to be blind to root Lucy Smalls and so on.
I come on here and give my honest opinions on subjects that many will disagree with but I stick by them or apologise if I feel I made a mistake or went too far. You make bullshit claims and lie about having inside knowledge of Donnys Iran excursion and fucking blah blah blah and just try and brush it under the carpet.
I tell stories on here about surfing experiences and being a fucking loose cunt that happened over twenty years ago and now fucking idiots like you say I’m a bad father to Mini when she wasn’t even born then hahahahaha.
I live a very fucking quiet life these days and my entire being is about being the very best dad I can be so go fuck yourself up the arse you absolute preachy, fake Christian MAGA supporting wanker. I could not give a flying fuck what you think about me but seeing fake cunts like you spouting non stop wank will always make me laugh hahaha
your honest opinions often are morally bankrupt……just because you put haha after the comment does not make it less offensive.
You stick by them or won’t answer like…” because prostitution is the oldest profession in the world , it’s Ok to fuck Prostitutes?”
Your surf stories are so fucken soft , it’s amazing that people are entertained by them…..probably says something about them?
as for all the shit you post about seppos, their sports etc….we have rugby league/union/AFL/cricket…..if ya live in a glass house don’t throw rocks at people……
It’s true that hitting a baseball is considered the most difficult single skill in professional sports. Pro pitchers throw really fast – over 90mph (145ish km per hour).
This made me curious, so I looked at ESPN’s degree of difficulty rankings as determined by a panel of sports scientists. They were looking at overall athleticism vs a single skill.
I found the results surprising. Boxing is #1 followed by ice hockey, football, basketball, and wrestling. Baseball came in at #9. Surfing is #23. Golf is #51.
https://www.espn.com/espn/page2/sportSkills
It’s also insanely popular in Asia, Central, and South America.
If you snap a leggy, there is always a solution
Funny as FUCK
Surf leashless and don’t lose your board
some of my most memorable sessions have been because I forgot my leash
If you’d told me I’d be surfing some of my local area’s best waves of the year in mid November I’d have laughed loudly.
But here we are….surfed out and satisfied.
Nice. Hope it keeps up.
Abnormal weather here too mate.
I am loving it!
Tell you what- that new 7’0″ I said might come in handy if we got an out of season swell, came in real handy.
Didn’t really need all those 7 feet but it sure was deluxe paddling in with it underneath me.
I’m on a new magic sled too. 6’3 Lost Driver 3.0.
The only find I’ve got that fit it ( Futures) are a motley set bought off an Indo in the boonies after he accumulated them wandering the reef at low tide looking for octopus. Turns out they carve like a frigging dream.
Nice! Love it when the off season produces
Poor Luke is likely traumatized from the hazing activity he endured to make a water polo team. So Chas maybe hating a little hard on poor Luke… or maybe not?
Creatures of leisure make safest leashes. Had dakine John John leash fail surfing alone, sun going down, and that was almost about all she wrote…
Had a brand new dakine slip off my ankle like a pair of silk undies at 6-8′ lances left once. In over the reef I went to retrieve board.
never again
Ocean and Earth.
Always.
Great to see some groundcore Aussie brands still getting some love and traction.
O&E’s new travelling boardbags are seriously the bees knees. So well designed and made.
Creatures do make better leggies though. .
Love my O&E boardbag though go Octopus for the leash.
Correct but they ain’t cheap.
I got stuck in a bind with my last purchase and ended up with a FKN one, it’s actually been pretty good
Weld failed where cord meets swivel, luckily took first wave of the set at a firing reef, if there wasn’t five behind it, poof.
Same. Reckon they had a dodgy supply of Velcro.
On leashes: those FCS Helix leashes, look appealing in the marketing, and fuck me they’re a delicious piece of industrial design. However, they stretch waaaaaaay too much without snapping and never quite return to normality. I have an eleven foot comp cord in the garage, approximately 3mm diameter.
Yeah those FCS ones are shithouse too
I know 2 girls (Sisters) who used to work for Creatures in Margs back in the late 90’s.
They loved it.
Used to make leg ropes and boardbags.
great Boardbags too
Said it was the most chill place to work, and they sponsored a heap of locals too with hardware
I Thank you so much for sharing that!
Creatures and O&E were just the best and cheapest ones on the shelf, HAHA
Balin used to make the best leg ropes but somewhere along the line they got overtaken. Up until late 80s in this part of the world (before creatures of leisure), it was balin, O&E, and full bore. Not sure if the balin are even still around.
FCS recently made that weird leggie that was like a lawnmower starter cable. Piece of shit, looks like they gave up on it.
Balin still make leggies and they are very good. Strong/good velcro.
« Big ´ol rip » solidifies your rep as a massive cunt. Ha! We ain’t dead yet!
xox !!
This is experienced surfer Luke Jackson and you’re listening to 91X.
The real question for folks BTL—shaving your beard up to the jawline?
hard nah for me.
Hard Gnar for me
poodle trim
Same mate and as for rangas wearing brown caps well fuck me I wouldn’t know where to begin
Ripping super hard