Healthier for our planet! Healthier for your fun!
Ashley Lloyd Thompson wants to make surfboard building more sustainable. She builds the majority of her boards from recycled EPS foam blanks and glasses them with a plant-based resin. Her original love is longboards, but she lives to build and ride just about anything.
Women shapers remain a rare breed. Thompson got interested in building boards while surfing Malibu as a teenager. After her board hit the point’s rock bottom a few too many times, she learned ding repair, which in turn, inspired her to learn how to make a board of her own. Along the way, she also competed in longboard events — and most recently, was one of the women invited to last week’s Vans Duct Tape Invitational.
After a stop in Santa Barbara, Thompson moved north to Santa Cruz, where she’s been making boards for the past 15 years. Built out by her husband, her workshop is on the second floor of an industrial building hard by the freeway. The loftlike space houses a shaping room, glassing area, and serves as a practice space The Shapes, Thompson’s band.
A few months ago, I caught up with her to talk surfboards. Here’s an excerpt.
“My friend Danny Tarampi from Malibu taught me how to shape. And then I was friends with these guys that lived at The Wilderness [in Santa Barbara], which now has the 101 freeway over it. That’s where I shaped my first board. They taught me a lot about surfboard shaping in between rounds of skating in their backyard pool. It was a really great introduction.
All the guys that lived at the Wilderness or came through there — they all had huge influences for me. Some of them worked for Haakenson’s glass shop who was doing the large majority of Channel Islands boards at the time. They were working for the biggest in the business, but no one had necessarily had heard of their names. I got a lot of knowledge from them that I will forever cherish, just in their after hours.
My first board was the Blue Otter Pop. It is a 9’7” and double-stringer. I always loved longboarding. I didn’t really know what I was doing beyond just sculpting at that point in time. And trying to make something that I thought that looked cool.
Now I have a much better understanding of numbers and function and dimensions and you know, different engineering properties — in terms of what it is to be good hydrodynamics. My first several boards, I still had a lot to learn.
Sometimes people ask me how many women shapers there are. Like it’s a really changing number right now. Everyone used to tell me that I was the only one — but I don’t think I was ever the only one.
Making surfboards is super toxic! And it’s super toxic to the makers, especially the glassing. All of our boards are glassed with a plant-based resin. And a majority of our boards are made with recycled EPS foam. Just as far as our practices and self-awareness and sustainability factor, we try to be on that side of things. I still feel like we have a long way to go with all of that.
When I first heard of it, six or seven years ago, they called it Super Sap. But it was this really amber-colored resin that definitely seemed like it was made from plants. And now it’s just as comparable with other epoxy resin. It is considered an epoxy resin which means it’s a two-to-one ratio. From the manufacturing standpoint, it’s a lot more challenging and time-consuming than polyester and polystyrene and all that.
I started to get some glassers to glass with it, but it was like pulling teeth to get them to do it with my aesthetic or in a timely manner. It was always like, it just wasn’t production level that I wanted. But we wanted to do our boards more sustainably.
So my husband took the bull by the horns and built me this factory, which was amazing and started glassing our boards. In retrospect, I can’t believe we did this. It was challenging, especially the first year. It was pretty much like starting a new business. It’s been two years now.
I feel like, as consumers, a lot of time, people don’t think about the process it takes. They want something that looks cool, that’s trendy and beautiful, and that doesn’t cost any money. There’s nothing good about that for the environment. The only thing that’s good about that is if someone catches a wave and it stokes them out.
I’d like to go a bit further. I care about the people who are making my boards and I care about the environment. So that’s where we’re at. That’s what I’m really passionate about. People have been really stoked on their boards. They’re strong, they’re more sustainable, they’re beautiful. There’s good vibes forming all around them.
And we’re working with flax cloth. That’s one thing, for people who want a classic-feeling log. The flax adds not only another bio-component on your board, but it also helps with the dampening issues. So it’ll feel more like traditional PU foam versus the EPS.
Our resin is considered an epoxy and people immediately associate it with EPS foam — and not everyone likes the feeling of EPS. So we are still boards that are PU foam, but I want to switch over to doing more and more, if not all of my boards, with EPS, because you can get it recycled. But we have to figure out how to get it to feel like the classic boards. So that’s my project right now is to weight it with the flax.
For my personal quiver, right now, I’m building an EPS recycled foam noserider. I’m going to weight really heavy with my flax cloth. That’s probably what I’m most excited about for myself right now.
I like to ride different equipment, to inspire me to not be doing the same thing that I’ve always done. It’s just a matter of finding different lines for the equipment you have. For me, that’s the most intriguing part about it.
I have a shortboard that’s almost like a conventional shortboard, but it’s a 2+1 fin setup. A little bit softer on the nose, so it’s like my version of a standard shortboard. It’s a single to double concave with a kind of tunnel v. It’s really smooth. And it just feels a little more single-finny glide. I call it the Dreamweaver. I really like that board.
I put a lot of love and energy into every board I make, even before I put my hands on the foam. Thinking about the person and what’ll work best for them and my intentions and how it’ll be a really good union — from the designing point to handing over to them. That’s why I write made with love on the stringer. I just started doing it and it felt right.
It’s all in what your trip is, and what path you want to take. We are what we want to be.
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that was so boring that i could only read till the natural sap resin part, bla bla bla tge environment responsible BS talk all a bunch of 💩.
A woman?
Check out Ellie Miller surfboards in UK. Makes great kit, not HP, but great sleds otherwise.
Rad. Thanks! I will 🙂
I’m all for sustainability but I’ve grown tired of hearing about it. When I see someone wearing a patagonia wetsuit I want to puke.
How about the incorrect and overly used claim of “recycled EPS foam blanks”. Let’s examine. Marko Foam makes a dogsh*t version of a 25% recycled + 75% virgin EPS blank in a limited size range. Almost nobody uses these particular blanks because the damn things are so riddled with holes they look like somebody took a tommy gun to them. So, what ends up happening is some shapers use Marko’s high-quality (yes, it is good stuff) regular 100% virgin EPS and claim it to be “recycled”. Marko’s raking it in on the false claims of “recycled” EPS that media and shapers are using… too bad surfers aren’t switched on enough to know the difference.
Isn’t it also B.S. to call it “plant-based resins” when there is only 25-33% bio-carbon content in the resin? That’s more like a 67-75% petroleum-based resin with 25-33% plant matter sprinkled in for good measure.
In Hakuba a few years ago, those cunts tried to sting me the Yen equivalent of $2.50 for a paper bag to carry my stupid ex wife’s new 400 dollar plastic puffer jacket home, while sitting in a store made almost entirely of either plastic or wood with a thick layer of Epoxy on it. Sanctimonious fuck sticks. If buying a heavy, stiff wetsuit at three times the price of an on-line one seems sensible, then drink their organic Kool Aid and bend over. There will be not so much as a reach around.
What’s with the tyvek suit and the full face respirator with organic vapor cartridges? It’s fucking polyurethane foam, princess… you’re not going to die.. shit, my bad.. you live in a state that’s outlawed WD-40.. how safe are these boards if you have to gear up like you’re cleaning up a hazmat spill on the 405
Mmmmmm… and is it normal to be using a hand saw on a blank in that rather advanced state of shaping? It’s got actual rails and looks ready to glass.
Not dissing her craft, I’m sure her boards are great, but I detest badly staged photos.
Alright ya Grumpy Locals™
I was makin’ a time-lapse video and while that thing was running, I snapped off some photos. So, not staged. She was using that baby saw to lightly scrape a way some material — another shaper mighta done that job with a different tool. The basic process of making a board is pretty consistent among the shapers I’ve watched build, but everyone has their own quirks and choices about how the details get done. So yeah, she did use that thing. That wasn’t my most favorite image from the set, but I don’t pick what runs.
It’s funny because dudes looking at this image set notice the astronaut suit straightaway. Most dude shapers I know pretty much wander in and out of the shaping room and around life covered in foam dust like a bunch of dirtbag snowmen. It’s endearing, really. But you know, let’s pretend that you want to wake up early, do a bunch of shaping, then go take your kid to the park, meet a friend for lunch, teach a surf lesson — and you don’t want to look like a dirtbag snowman while you do those things. Seems reasonable, actually.
In a broader sense I think there is much more cultural messaging and pressures directed at women about health and wellness — and avoiding chemicals and toxic substances. That messaging gets extra-intense in relation to pregnancy and motherhood. So I’m not at all surprised that dudes are like, whatevs, and a woman might have different concerns — whether those concerns are valid or not.
Ok sorry Jen, my bad. I’ve used odd tool choices in the past also.
See: entire life.
Good article Jen!
(You should interview and do an article on Dibi Fletcher next)
Oh myyyy. I feel like there’s a lot of words out there already on the Fletchers? Idk if I could really do anything fresh there. But it might be entertaining. As it happens, I did interview Nathan Fletcher recently — he’s got a film coming that Oblowitz, the Sea of Darkness guy, made. Eh, I’m writing a thing about it that’ll run at some point.
That pivot as it happened at “happens…” was elegant, with a dash of devious.
I’d like to read Dibi’s opinion about the difference, if any, between that chance for a woman that runs a business* and competes being as successful as a woman that runs a business and doesn’t compete. Do the intangibles of “getting your brand out there” enough to take time away from their business. It certainly can’t be for prize money.
*shapers, shop owners, brand owners, etc.
A girl’s gotta be a little devious in this world sometimes!
Ashley’s a gem! Nice write up Jen See!
She’s awesome! A couple of my friends have boards from her and love them. I might have to have one too. 🙂
WTF, I had to go back and check to see if I clicked on Stab or the Inertia by mistake. How about “a different level of unhealthy” for a better title.
Sorry! Sorry! I’ll be less wholesome next time!
So the male shapers that work near me are either trust funders who work as a hobby or burned out drunks who really have no other marketable skills. Is it different for women? Is this a hobby business or is she paying the bills?
So I can’t speak to women shapers in general, because I’ve only talked to two of them so far, but it’s a legit question.
I’d say based on the interview, Ashley makes it work the same as most of my friends in creative fields do. With this and that. In addition to shaping, she teaches surf lessons and her husband has a full-time job that isn’t surf industry. I got the impression they have family in the area who help out with childcare. She does some brand-related stuff too — there’s a cool video coming with her from Blackburn, the cycling brand. I don’t see it up on the internets yet, but Brian Vernor made it and I’m pretty sure it’ll be gorgeous. So a mix of things, I’d say.
That’s pretty cool, a mix of creativity and hustle with a supportive family.
Is that really you, Chas?
I’m sorry! I have the nastiest head cold and swimming though life in an ugly fog!
Ah, Jen See – that makes more sense. One cannot read a Jen piece in a Chas voice.