She even crushed the World Surf League's Erik Logan, a heretofore impossible feat!
I have a neck tan so intensely defined right now that it’s almost embarrassing. I went surfing just about every day during the holidays. No big road trips. No exotic destinations. Just wake up, drink a couple espressos, and find some waves somewhere in the neighborhood. I also tried organic pop tarts for the first time. This was not a good decision.
My holiday surf binge did not get off to the most auspicious start. There I was, changing out of my suit, all post-surf glow, and a bro needed some wax. Because I am not always an asshole, I gave him some. He swiped it across the deck of his board and handed it back, covered in sand.
I vowed right then and there, that the next person to ask me for wax, would receive a nice hard chunk of tropical. To be clear, here in Centralish California (don’t at-me, bitches!), the water temperatures are not currently tropical. How much fun to watch them slide as their wax flakes joyfully off their boards!
There was the day with playful windswell and three guys out. I’m not sure how this happened, but it did. The next day, there were three-hundred guys out, in much the same waves. I’m not sure how this happened, either, but the parking lot full of van life should have been a warning sign. Apparently, you need a Sprinter van to go surfing now. I really wanted to know what was living in the vans, but it seemed slightly forward to ask for a guided tour.
There was the day that Dane Reynolds almost turned on my face. Fortunately, because it was Dane, he did not actually turn on my face. It takes a real pro to manage these things correctly. It was a very nice turn on an extremely diminutive wave. Normal people do not surf like that, is a thing I said, and then I went to find a tiny wave of my own.
Somedays, the wind ricochets around the Santa Barbara channel, bouncing off the coastal mountains, whistling through the canyons, and slamdancing into the islands, only to return straight back to the coast. Onshore. Offshore. Sideshore. Every direction at once. I went over the falls four times before I got lucky.
And luck it certainly was. I slid down the rib of the peak, the wind puffed offshore for a moment, and a glowing green wall appeared, seemingly out of nowhere. Right then, I felt that wondrous ease and grace that comes so rarely to those of us not named Steph Gilmore.
The tourists and their vans rolled over and through us, looking to cross Rincon off their bucketlist. I sat in southwind-fucked soup and wondered if it really counts when you surf a famous spot in bad waves. The tourists on their softops seemed consistently stoked, regardless of what the ocean offered them. High tide, low tide, south wind, no wind. It didn’t seem to matter at all. It’s all so awesome! This is so fun!
But can you say you surf Rincon or Trestles or Malibu, if the waves were a shadow of their true selves? Is there a Platonic ideal of the thing — or is it just a place on a map where sometimes the waves are good? For magazine photo editors (RIP), the perfect version of the place matters, maybe. For the rest of us, it’s probably so much unnecessary bullshit. I’m glad the tourists enjoyed their bad waves. To be clear, I also had fun in the bad waves. I have no standards.
One day I showed up to a full parking lot to find a friend changing out of his suit. I sat and waited for his spot and we bantered about the kind of dumb things you banter about in the surf spot parking lot. I told the story about lending wax to the guy with the sand-coated board. We talked about crowds and holidays. Then I parked and went surfing.
The next day, I showed up around the same time to see my same friend changing out of his suit. While I waited for his spot, I warned him against the organic pop tarts. Don’t go there, man, it’s the bad place. I like to help out my friends. Just as I got out of the car, I looked up to see him walking toward me. I figured he must have forgotten something. Instead, he tossed me a bar of wax — not tropical! — and ran, laughing, back to his idling car.
I can’t remember if the waves were any good that day, but sometimes, a fresh bar of wax and some laughs in the parking lot are the best parts of the whole damn thing.
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I always keep that last nub of wax in a plastic bag for the moochers. I toss ’em the mushy nub “here, its all yours.” I can then be virtuous and an asshole simultaneously.
Rookie mistake. I carry around a sand covered lump of wax in my box of tricks for the very reason of ‘lending’ out to under-prepared blow-ins.
You are so much smarter than I am. I must learn.
My favorite is the person who sees me putting on sunscreen and asks for to “borrow” some. You can “have” some you unprepared slouch but I won’t be needing it back. Fin keys are my other item I get asked for. I must look prepared in my Subaru with my 35 liter dadbod board. Jen See for President 2020!
Oh I am an asshole about sunscreen. In the winter, I only carry the expensive hippy shit on put on my face — waterproof suncreen makes my skin break out something stupid. So no lending in the winter. Summer, I always have some extra cheapy for The People.
The Subaru does imply a certain, ready for anything vibe, dude!
Despite the hoards it still only takes one wave to make it all worth it when that wave is A+ grade. Long live the Cental Coast.
I have a whole box of tropical wax I will gladly send you to hand out
Donations accepted!
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Let me say something about this wax – it truly is ‘Tropical’. Anything below 90deg, this shit is slick as black ice and why it’s been cluttering my closet for like 8 years now. And I live where it’s ungodly hot half the year, but still not hot enough for this wax. It’s yours if ya want, I was actually just about to chuck the whole lot in the trash. Just have to figure a way to send cross country!
Does this work for Oaxaca? I find the tropical sticky bumps to be a little gooey down there under foot.
That’s about the only place this will work – seriously – I am a tropics wax expert. Sticky Bumps is an absolute fave of mine (after switch from Palmers), and you are 100% spot on, it can get too gooey in the deep tropics – your feet just kind of get stuck in it This where this shit fits in – I swear – hotter the better. But once you get below 90F, forget it…
Great stuff for lighting a fire
I feel like you should just send it to the North Shore? Like, North Shore, Hawaii, Zip code. I’m sure it would get there! And maybe be useful, Idk.
NS not nearly hot enough. Think Mainland Mex or somewhere on the equator. Just go get a few bars nearby, loan ’em out to the moochers, and vid the results for us. I am sure it will be most entertaining.
I love the “the rib of the wave” idea, I think I know what you mean?, when you slide in at the critical point and are locked like on a track that kinds of takes over your trajectory – nice feeling!
Which Witch waved a wand to ward off wax ?
small weekday rivermouth for life!
Until your hair resembles nothing but silver strands …….
cryptic… Do I know you in the physical world?
Probably not , though I did take a big bloke ( BB ) from Oxnard on a day trip , south of Sydney , in the 80s ?
Is there any kind of crush wait list I can join
But what was the fashion like?
Ugg boots?
Roxy outfits?
Skinny jeans?
Burberry coats?
I didn’t know the Spice Girls surfed
Rexy Music please tell me you were their stylist .
I can just see you there :
Well I’ll tell you what you want
What you really really want ……..
Yeah i came up with the baby spice character.
But not the Old Spice ? Or maybe Salt and Peppa ……
They had to lose me cause i was getting more attention than David Becks
Everyone knows BEX IS BETTER !
“A cup of tea, a Bex and a good lie down.”………
I wanted the name sex videos
But i got trolled almost to suicide by antiporn activists
Well just to shit them make a video .
A cup of tea , a Bex , no Sex and a good lie down ( with your neck laced with pearls of course )
Oh my, fashion has been all over the map. Especially because it was a tad chilly by California standards, but there are many Weather Deniers! It’s California and there’s sun, so it must be summertime fun! I remain confused by the spring suits in December. I remain very confused.
Bless your -ishy, rides a fishy, central-ishy soul Jen See!
It’s been very thrusterish around here lately!
thrusters are for busters
And long range rockets
But they work good lots of times!
I also carried my silly little twinnie around and slid around on that thing a few times.
When 2 is one too less and 4 is one too more ? Then 3 is the number we can count on . Very Jealous of your neck tan and may I suggest a silk Hermès scarf , seeing that the neck beard , hopefully , is really not an an option .(please note that hirsute girls are wonderful too and no mention was made of pearl necklaces . )
That’s totally inappropriate.
I’m calling
why not mee too!
I’m jealous of your exploits JB.
Speakering of exploitation, is E-Lo exploiting surfing or doing some good?
O2 for the last 6 years the only thing I’ve been exploiting is my nose with soiled nappies , my fingers with dishwashing liquid and my ears with the screams of kids ………….and loving it .
Will ELo change surfing for the better or worse ? I have no idea , but he is giving us ,and himself , a lot of fun trying which is the reason most of us got addicted in the first place ?
Truth
Heh, I think Hermès might be beyond my budget.
Let’s forget this mercurial god then and try something suitably high necked and affordable from the goddess of victory, Nike ?
Guys and their dicks!
They’re a nightmare!
I feel like surfing is just one dick joke after another! Like, I stumble on them all the time just trying to talk about normal things, like say, surfboards.
Haha
anything pointy is phallic!
You should have driven a couple hours north. Find the right parking lot and you get a free bar of wax(on your windows), the air let out of your tires, and half an oil change. Laughs optional.
Sounds a hoot! Are you an enforcer or enforcee?
I am an aquatic hermit with lots of lesser quality options.
I always advised the kids from the village that the last thing they should do in the never ending struggle was to “ let down the tyres “ , because the BASTARDS , like myself ,MIGHT NEVER LEAVE ?
Heh. This sounds like pure joy.
Note to self: Don’t ask Jen for wax
Tropical! You get tropical.
You go girl.
Next time hand the cold over on a big warm day.
Ooooh, that would also be sweet, sweet, revenge!
Sounds like you enjoy the theatrics of it all and aren’t taking any of it too seriously, prob best way to hold off the bitter and wrinkled look.