See this? Finger on beak. And surfing's back
on the menu. @js35
Gold Coast Mayor rare voice of sanity amid
COVID-19 anti-surfing rage: “I’m not going to police a surfer out
in the back break. I’m not going to send the police out
there!”
By Derek Rielly
"I'm with Tudor not Skindizzle!"
As we’ve discussed and picked at here,
here and
here,
here,
here and
here too,
surfers fall into two camps: those who believe the sky will fall
and the population will be annihilated if riding waves is allowed
and those who think, mmmm, if jogging or doing sit-ups ain’t
lethal, why’s surfing?
Gold Coast mayor Tom Tate, a wonderful man of Laos and Thai
descent with an endearing Hawaiian sorta accent, TH becomes D etc,
shuttered the joint’s beaches around Coolangatta and Surfers
Paradise two days ago.
Yesterday, the mayor held a press conference and, in a
switcharoo from two days earlier, told reporters, and if you’ll let
me paraphrase, everyone should fucking calm down, go surfing, I’m
not going to send in the stormtroopers and there’s a shit-ton of
good waves around so find your own little hit of juice.
Watch here.
Loading comments...
Load Comments
0
Chas Smith (left) and Erik Logan in happier times when
touching was allowed. Very annoying.
Revealed: Ben Gravy, Kelly Slater, Erik
Logan and Chas Smith four of the twenty most annoying people in
current surf history!
By Chas Smith
Chris Cotê too!
This quarantine life, this unparalleled journey
we are all on and where are you scrawling marks on the wall? Where
are you counting the days of your confinement? Surfing is banned
around much of the world, thanks to a San Diego atmospheric
something-rather-else who was misquoted in saying that the dreaded
Coronavirus gets churned up when surfers hit the lip and sprays
into the noses of immuno-compromised folk thereby killing them.
Surfing no more.
But you may recall, days before all this madness, BeachGrit
announced its very exciting partnership with The Surfival League.
Fantasy surfing made great again and/or for the first time.
The whole shootin’ match was obviously derailed by the Chinese
Cold but the geniuses behind have not been laid low and, just
today, released their Quarantine House Surfing Edition.
https://www.instagram.com/p/B-sfzJJHPY4/
Imagine this thing lasts for one more month. Where would you
shelter in place?
I read once and laughed. Read twice and chuckled.
Read another four times and realized these twenty people (plus
another few Coffey Sisters) are the most annoying people in current
surf history.
Honored to be included?
An understatement.
But, in all seriousness and, as crazy as everything’s gotten
probable, where would you bunk?
Loading comments...
Load Comments
0
Gabriel Medina (pictured) grooming.
Revealed: How world champion surfer Gabriel
Medina keeps his skin and hair “ridiculously luscious and
impossibly desirable!”
By Chas Smith
Hint: It has middle notes of cypress, clary sage
and geranium.
There can be much debate around the polarizing
Brazilian world champion Gabriel Medina, how he completes,
how he Instagrams, who he calls friends etc. but I will not allow
one word, here or anywhere, denigrating his Adonis-like good
looks.
A handsome man if there ever was one.
Classic lines. A come-hither look only outdone by the greatest
surfer in the world Kelly Slater’s.
Thankfully for us, Gabriel Medina just shared what makes his
skin and hair ridiculously luscious and impossibly desirable.
So, what’s your post-surf grooming routine
like? A good warm shower, use of hair
products (good old hair conditioner) and some skin products. We
surfers have to deal with sunburns frequently. Surfers are exposed
to the sun every day, so it is something we have to be very careful
with. Sunscreen at all times!
Does your routine have a specific
order? I usually like to shave after I surf, followed by a warm
shower. Lastly, but most importantly, you have to have a nice
smell, so a good spray of Polo Deep Blue is my final touch —
overall, I lean toward energizing and refreshing scents. I love
that it’s inspired by the ocean.
How do you relax after surfing? A good stretch, a lot of food (I come out of surfing starving)
and some power naps.
When you’re traveling, what do you pack in your Dopp
kit? I bring with me the essentials: toothbrush and paste, hair comb
and always Polo Deep Blue Parfum when I travel because it gives me
a boost of energy and confidence.
Polo Deep Blue Parfum, eh? With top notes of green mango,
grapefruit and bergamot; middle notes of cypress, clary sage and
geranium; base notes of sea, patchouli, musk, ambroxan and fir
resin?
Very nice.
Loading comments...
Load Comments
0
President Bolsonaro (pictured) giving surfers a tacit
thumbs up.
Breaking: Brazil’s well-loved President
Jair Bolsonaro calls Rio’s Governor “dictatorial” for closing
famous beaches!
By Chas Smith
Common sense for an uncommon time?
And who could have ever guess, some handful of months
ago, when a hungry Chinese man sat down for a tasty bat
that, some handful of months later, the entire world would be
locked down and surfers, us surfers, would be the pointy tip of
that debate?
Virtually unbelievable and yet here we are.
“Social distancing” has become the rule from Bondi to Belarus,
Copacabana to Cardiff by the Sea but what does “social distancing”
actually mean and how should it be enforced?
In Cardiff by the Sea the jackboots are officially stomping down
the street. Surfing banned even though surfing is, typically, a
self-isolating pursuit. Rage bubbles at the absurdity. The
heavy-handed absurdity.
Likewise, in Copacabana and throughout Rio beaches are closed
and surfing outlawed but Brazil’s well-loved President, Jair
Bolsonaro, did not take the move lightly and let us go alone,
together, to The Gray
Lady for the latest.
In Brazil, a surf-crazed nation where urban beaches are
often clogged before and after work, the debate has taken an
acrimonious and even political turn.
President Jair Bolsonaro has berated Rio Governor Wilson
Witzel for closing beaches, calling the move
“dictatorial.”
Bolsonaro’s son Eduardo, a congressman from Sao Paulo state,
just down the coast, argued in a Facebook post on Thursday for a
decree to allow surfing that conforms with social
distancing.
With or without a decree, many surfers are simply doing what
they can to dodge attention – and each other.
Eduardo Bolsonaro for President of the World Surf League? Such
fine common sense but back to the point at hand. With surfing now
central to the debate on how socially responsibility should look
shouldn’t we all be doing a better job to make asses of
ourselves?
Like, really turning every future VAL completely off?
A VAL bust that sees post-pandemic participation numbers fall to
record lows?
Or are we doing a fine enough job already?
More as the story develops.
Loading comments...
Load Comments
0
Breaking: World’s greatest surfer Kelly
Slater makes inspiring Coronavirus “Instagram Live” with urban folk
singer Citizen Cope!
By Chas Smith
For me. For you. Come on, get happy!
I am not good at Instagram, nor fluent, but
fate had me in my messages when the benevolent @socalgary wrote “Kelly
live on instagram” and posted a link that featured Kelly Slater
live on Instagram chatting with urban folk singer Citizen Cope.
Immediately, I placed my drink on the zinc counter and began
typing their dialog with the understanding that I would form up
some proper story later.
I have since had another drink and here are the raw notes from
watching a portion of Kelly Slater and Citizen Cope’s Instagram
live.
Can you find a story herein?
What would it be?
Otherwise, bon appetite.
Kelly: “If you ever look at the Darwin awards you see
injuries worse than mine.”
“Kelly’s friend: “Give you all the money in my pocket if you
can do a backflip off tramp.”
Kelly: “Under-rotated. Worried about landing on butt. Gonna
put feet down but worried about breaking toes so busted all the
cartilage in kneecaps. My five bones in my knees
didn’t fuse to one, they fused to three. Went to doctor got an
x-ray. Gonna cast you for three weeks. Mom, EMT ‘That’s not a
break.’ Tripartite patella…”
…something something.
Kelly: “Struggled with that for four years.”
Kelly: “Won first world title with hurt knee.”
Kelly: “School should be a lot shorter because it has been
proven that people only have 20 minutes worth of
learning.”
Kelly: “I was doing math with them and they were doing
common core math and I was like who the hell did this? This is
stupid! I was completely baffled by how they were doing math. Don’t
bring that around anymore. Don’t do that.”
Kelly: “Wavepool is I think doing good. I think shut. I
haven’t checked in so I don’t know.”
Kelly: “I look around at the surf world, my world, so many
more people in the water and every company’s got no money. Don’t
these people have to buy something from someone?”
Long song by Citizen Cope… staring into camera all awkward
etc. Kelly took it like a champ. An absolute champ. I’ve never seen
someone watch someone sing a song better.
Kelly: “I used to play When Doves Cry. So simple little
songs. Same with Jack’s songs. So simple you can keep up for
sure.”
Kelly: “Writing a song, meditation lasts for a few months or
years.”
Kelly: “That mayor up there (in Washington D.C.) didn’t
help. He was there banging chicks in hotel room.”
Citizen Cope: “Well…We all loved Mayor Berry. He was doing a
bunch of good stuff.”
(Kelly starts washing his hands then pours a cup of water
totally destroying the sound and making Citizen Cope’s face
sad.)