"It's an eight oh, bro."
"It's an eight oh, bro."

Volume calculator: In semi-annual “celebrities who love to surf” featurette, Page Six reveals Tinseltown’s favorite board is the 8-foot egg for 20-years running!

'Til death do us part.

Yesterday, it was revealed the actor Ben Affleck was broken up with by his beautiful Cuban-Spanish girlfriend, actress Ana de Armas, after one year together. Sources claimed the pair really seemed to be in love though work/family constraints provided simply too much pressure in the end.

Alas, they will always have their 8-foot egg shaped surfboards.

Hollywood’s enduring love affair with the Ashton Goggans of wave craft is legendary and especially in a town not known for fidelity. Let us celebrate the union while scrolling through Page Six’s semi-annual “celebrities who love to surf” featurette. Let us toast the passion in all of its glory.

Ah, Ben Affleck’s pal Matt Damon and his trusty 8-foot Becker…

…Gerard Butler and his eight-feet of flow…

…Saturday Night Live’s Colin Jost feeling eight-feet of fun…

…funny man Daniel Tosh.0 doin’ it x8…

Etc.

On and on the featurette goes with appearances from Reese Witherspoon, Joel Kinnaman, Liev Schreiber and many more all staying true to 8-feet of foam with gently rounded curves.

Laird Hamilton even makes a special appearance though he is riding an eFoil.

Back to the eggs, though, does it make you want to add one to your quiver?

It should.

People will think you are famous.

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Wild Jetski Launch during Hawaiian mega-swell snaps surf photographer’s spine, “I legitimately thought I was paralysed!”

"I just remember feeling weightless and it taking a really long time to come down."

The Californian surf photographer Ryan Moss is recovering at the Queens Trauma Center in Honolulu after snapping his spine during one of the most filmed, and commented, moments in recent surf history.

Moss was shooting the thirty-foot swell on the back of a ski piloted by pro surfer Cam Richards from South Carolina when they, along with a flotilla of other water bikes, watched the horizon turn black.

Hit the vid below, drag slider to two minutes.

Note: The white ski ain’t Moss and Richards.

In an excellent interview with Magic Seaweed, Moss describes being caught inside and the aftermath of the impact.

“I just remember feeling weightless and it taking a really long time to come down. I didn’t know or realise how fast Cam sent us over the lip of that thing.

“There was no handle on the ski, so I couldn’t stand up and hold on and hoped my legs would have absorbed some of the impact. So I was just sitting on the back with a death grip on the leather seat. Next thing I know I heard a loud thud and it felt like the ski buckled in half.

“Along with that my back sent a shooting pain and tingling feeling from my waist down to my feet. I remember saying “fuck, fuck, fuck”, I’m paralysed. I legitimately thought I was.

Cam Richards, meanwhile, got sucked over the falls with another ski.

“Cam if you’re reading this, I hope you’re all good and in good health,” Moss said from his hospital bed.

White ski pilots unharmed!
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Breaking: North Bondi hippie party seeking to “reconnect people through dance and live music” explodes in popularity as concerned citizens attempt to shame attendees on social media!

Phish sucks.

There will soon be a time when we fail to remember how life was before Coronavirus moved into our world and refused to check out. There will be whispers of days long ago when human beings attended concerts, sporting events, went to museums, bettered ourselves with each other.

Kissed sometimes too.

Stood on grassy knolls in North Bondi listening to hippie music and gently swaying without getting shamed across social media for so doing.

Well, current restrictions in New South Wales prohibit human gatherings of more than 30 people but more than 30 people stood on a grassy knoll in North Bondi listening to hippie music and gently swaying though they got shamed across social media and now the police are looking into the incident.

According to its Facebook page, “The group typically gather every Sunday afternoon and aim to ‘reconnect people through dance and live music.'”

Not chill and thankfully many were ready to point fingers. Oxana Alexandra, posted the picture and captioned it “corona central” adding, “Come on Sydney get it together we don’t want another lockdown.” for good measure.

Others decried the lack of masks and distancing.

I would imagine the lineup was also very full that day seeing Australia is in the midst of glorious summer and Bondi is Bondi.

I used to enjoy going to the McDonald’s, post-Bondi surfs, and ordering the Big Kahuna burger, which is not available in America.

It came with pineapple.

Delicious.

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Watch: Frenchwoman Justine Dupont makes her case for “Wave of the Winter” with gaping Jaws barrel!

Unprecedented times.

Sometimes, when Surfline says my local is 4-6 feet, I play “Wave of the Winter” out the front. The Surfline/O’Neill collaboration that was “created to celebrate unsung local heroes who charge at beaches around the country, all winter long” is in its 11th season and already off to a wonderful start what with Pacific energy raging nonstop.

I know I had a decent entry yesterday. A slightly overhead bomb scooped away from a young man on a twin-fin who didn’t look up to the task. Early drop, straight to the bottom then up to the top with a slow-motion arc ender.

Very fine but not quite as fine as Frenchwoman Justine Dupont’s Jaws barrel from two days ago. Let us watch together.

Whoa.

And the guts to pull in at that wild, chattery speed is very impressive along with the clean make and let us compare the above with Peter Mel’s Mavericks ride seen around the world.

Are you #TeamLesBleus or #TeamQuinquagenarian?

Exciting days.

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Watch: You’ve seen Pete “The Condor” Mel’s wave of the decade, you’ve read the interview, now experience the most handsome man in surfing in all his salt and pepper glory!

Madonna would blush.

Who could have ever guessed that our stillborn season of professional surfing would have gifted us one resurgent Peter Mel as booby prize?

You?

Me?

Wiggolly’s Paddling Style?

No.

None of us but here we are and here we are.

Peter “The Condor” Mel, sometime World Surf League commentator, full-time surf shop owner, quinquagenarian, is our best face and what a best face it is.

Gold chain, salt n pepper top to chin bottom, OMG.

His Mavericks wave, from a few weeks ago, is still reverberating across our shared psyche.

Ooooee.

But, quickly, do you recall onetime professional surfer Wiggolly Dantas and his paddling style?

Worth a revisit.

Also worth hearing Peter Mel discuss his Wave of the Decade with the one, and only, Kaipo Guerrero looking better than prime.

Madonna would blush.

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