"Surfers whinge if it's not good for three days, let alone a couple of months. This year they had a legitimate reason to complain."
Who don’t go nuts when the strong, well-muscled waves of winter fail to show and surfers are left to fiddle and burn, often more fiddling than burning?
Surfers on NSW’s South Coast, a couple hundred mile strip that runs from Wollongong in the north to Eden in the south, are being driven crazy, literally, claims a prominent news source ‘cause there ain’t been no winter swells.
According to coastal researcher Dr Mitch Harley from the University of NSW, the waves have been “exceedingly flat. Usually, winter waves are about 1.6 metres in height on average,” he told ABC. “They were about 25 per cent lower at 1.3 metres, and we haven’t seen any really large wave events over the entire winter.”
Australian surf champ Matt Hoar told the ABC he’d never seen it this bad.
“Surfers tend to whinge if it’s not good for three days, let alone a couple of months. This year in particular they had a legitimate reason to complain.”
Bega Valley counsellor Prem Kranti said surfers were hit two-fold, the flat spell and memories of the Black Summer bushfires from a few years back after a few early season fires took hold.
“There are physical, mental, emotional and also spiritual benefits of being in the ocean and out in nature,” she told ABC. “For people on the south coast, the ocean also provides a strong counterpoint to what has been damaged by bushfire.”
Another surfer, Alice Mood, echoed Kranti.
“You’re hearing on the radio about fires. When you’re in the water you’re forgetting about it, you’re just having a good time so it’s that time out. I was always cranky. I tried other avenues like running, the gym and even gardening, but none of it cuts it.”
I presume I’m an oddity when it comes to flat spells. I wake, examine the listless ocean, and am overjoyed I’ve been gifted another day without the interference of surfing. Free from guilt, I can improve my sauna game (four hits of twenty minutes in a crowded hot box with quick dips in the ocean pool), wrestle without limit, wallow in medieval literature and extend midday naps til dark and so on.
Where do you fall? A lover of flat spells or does your mind tend to the crazy?
Been good waves for about 10 days here. Non-stop. Surfed about 3 hours every morning either side of high tide. Shoulders, back, arms, chest, everything fucking exhausted.
Daughter’s sports carnival today from early and I was stoked for the break. To make things even better, the onshore got up from about 9am. Didn’t miss a thing.
Happy when it’s shit if I’m all surfed out or hungover. Angry pants if I want to surf and it’s shit.
They are on the wrong side of cape howe. Victoria has had a great winter.
As have a few select Ssw swell magnets on the east coast. What the article fails to mention is that the average period has been higher than normal.
first the dole, now flat spells
Scomo surf team not looking that good
….. come to New Jersey,,,,, then learn to appreciate your “flat spells”……
Before a fire swept through the neighborhood…
They gathered when they could…
To watch and feed the birds…
And tinker with things…
A tiny preserve I would offer…
And to them a small delight…
Hawg heaven…
Old memories flashed anew and refreshed…
All of them good…
A showplace for the two of them…
And from this place they shared…
Built future dreams and present tense…
For the lucky ones they love…
Hawg heaven…
A fire swept through the neighborhood…
Nothing ventured, nothing lost…
Nothing we could do…
Helpless, but not hopeless…
Hope abounds and rebounds…
And so will these two…
To see the sacred ground…
Beneath the ashes…
Lies ol’ Blackie and Floyd…old Red…and on, and on…
Hawg Heaven…
Tears of memories…
Tears of joy…
Won’t bring back the structures…
That fire ran through the neighborhood…
May all good men…
May all good women…
Make it out of Three Points…and harm’s way…
And share the same…
With their loved ones…
What it’s like to live and be alive…
Hawg heaven…
A fire swept through our neighborhood…
SO I JUST WENT SURFING>
I’m not bitter at all having not surfed a decent wave since mid-July. NOPE NOT ONE FUCKING BIT BITTER! I’ve only had one good crash on my mtn bike, played more golf than I’ve ever played in a summer but at least the shrooms and tequila have helped to soothe my bitter mind…
I’m with you DR. Swell gives me anxiety.
HIGH ANXIETY…
South Coast doesn’t get good anyway. Ever.
Lennox is where it’s at baby! Tell your mates!
“””According to coastal researcher Dr Mitch Harley from the University of NSW, the waves have been “exceedingly flat. Usually, winter waves are about 1.6 metres in height on average,” he told ABC. “They were about 25 per cent lower at 1.3 metres””””
Sounds like a 6th Grade report a kid pieced together on the bus on the way to school
…while building model airplanes. love planes. hate models. well, there are exceptions…blondes!
dodged a semi decent swell this week due to family holiday, so I feel their pain. However I was able to rekindle a relationship with heavy day drinking.
I take it Cylinder wasn’t cylindering. She’s fickle indeed.
It was almost doing something on Thursday, could have been enjoyable if it wasn’t for the 50+ next big things in town for the Straddie assault taking control. Coupla fun days at main beach earlier in the week though, and I saw Ethan Ewing driving a tractor.
Sick joint but. Keen to retire to a fisherman’s shack at Amity
At least my mate saw him on the tractor. And he’s pretty sure it was him
Shame you aren’t there this week for the Southern Hemisphere’s biggest reggae festival. Painted bare body parts galore! Wouldn’t be surprised if Derek was there getting his hippy funk skank on.
Oh yeah, forgot it’s that time of the year. I can see why the relationship rekindled, your better off sitting on the Headland, knocking them back and watching the show.
seen Old Dads movie? it carves up every PC theme and ol’ Bill Burr caves at the end. spoiler alert!