John John Florence and Gabriel Medina, hot new rivalry.
Surfing's hottest rivalry, three time world champ John John Florence v three-time world champ Gabriel Medina. Both at their early thirties peak. | Photo: WSL/Thiago DIz, Instagram

Newly birthed rivalry with Gabriel Medina may convince John John Florence to stay on world surf tour!

John’s draw to competition is stronger than is widely acknowledged. He still thinks he can do even more.

And so the season is done, John Florence is champion on the men’s side, Caitlin Simmers for the women. Two ubiquitously popular surfers for whom there will be little dissent, even from embittered Australians and apoplectic Brazilians.

Apologies for the lateness of this missive. On Saturday I raced to the top of Ben Nevis and back in temperatures flirting with thirty degrees centigrade. Even at the summit of the highest mountain in the British isles there was no breeze of respite, the air stifling and deathly still. Several runners dropped out, many collapsed, some were hospitalised. One guy had a seizure just after crossing the line.

It felt like a real achievement to get to the end. Halfway down my legs gave up. But I stumbled on, relying almost entirely on gravity and aided by strangers handing out water and encouragement. It was one of the hardest things I’ve ever done. And the obligatory night of drinking that followed left every cell and molecule clinging onto basic functionality.

I’d thought of Lower Trestles as I ran. Of the clean, groomed, shoulder-high perfection. Perfection in the eyes of the average punter, of course.

It felt ironic that I was working physically harder in an amateur hill race than the best surfers in the world were at what was supposedly the pinnacle of their sport, the crowning glory of the World Surf League and their season. What they were doing was child’s play for men and women of their skill. An effete little watery dance. Like watching Leo Messi do keepy-ups with a beach ball.

But let’s not belabour criticism of the venue. It’s all been said and done, and we’re moving on to a more appropriate (yet not perfect) venue in Fiji next year.

Besides, location notwithstanding, the format kind of works. (Personally I’d tweak it with a best-of-three for 3rd vs 2nd as well.)

The day began with Ewing vs Ferreira, but the marker laid down by the judges for their opening exchange was to shift inexplicably throughout the day.

Ethan’s opener was typically smooth and powerful. Three turns were perfectly timed, with the final hit having the degree of pizazz that makes middle-aged men lose their shit.

Italo, by contrast, whacked the lip no less than eight times. He was metronomic, piston-like, tendons so strung out with caffeine that you could hear them ping.

8.33 for Ewing vs 7.67 for Ferreira seemed to say it all.

But Italo was relentless. He thrashed the judges into submission with a pace of surfing that seemed exciting, even if you didn’t admire the style. He doubled Ewing’s wave count, ten to five.

And yet, it seemed Ewing’s patience and adherence to values might pay off when he took off on his fifth wave needing just an average score. But Italo was on the one behind, and his full backhand rotation was enough to snatch the heat.

Next up was Robinson. He sprinted by Italo on the way to the waterline, trying to match his energy, but it was an impossible task.

In the water, Ferreira continued his foaming-mouthed attack. Robinson was kerb stomped. It was not a contest.

You might not like Italo’s approach, but it was the best that could be done with the waves on offer.

Robinson was so rattled that he even made contact with Ferreira during a paddle battle. Then he resorted to air attempts, trying to mimic his opponent. But that was like standing toe-to-toe with prime Mike Tyson and trying to match him for power.

“He tried to play the game,” said Italo after. “But I played the game a little better.”

Then came Griff.

Chris Cote introduced them as he had the other matches, still in Bruce Buffer style as per previous finals. But this year the runway had been replaced with more demure wooden steps.

Italo leapt from them like a squirrel, landed in a crouch, then took off towards the waterline like he’d been scalded.

Griffin hopped down, gave Caroline Marks a congratulatory kiss on the cheek as she passed on the sand, then jogged towards the water line, smiling broadly and high-fiving the fans.

This will be the end for Ferreira, I thought. You cannot penetrate the spotless mind.

Nothing had changed in Italo’s surfing. Not today, and not since he last won in 2019. He was twitchy, chaotic, explosive. But something had changed in the judging. Something had swayed back towards Ferreira’s approach, some judging groupthink, invisible as a kelp forest in a tide.

Colapinto was underscored on a key wave, everyone agreed. And then the ocean went flat for a long time.

“He has four choices, but he can only make one decision,” said someone in the booth.

It sounded nice, but I had no idea what it meant.

There was one more exchange, and then it was done. Italo was through to face John Florence for the world title.

Back on shore he bounded around the locker room, slapping the plywood walls with joy, wired as fuck. All that fitness, all those reps, all those popping veins and ripping fibres came down to this.

There was no style. There was no zen. There was no flow.

There was only fuckyouup, jaw clenching intensity. A rat in a cage, bloody-eyed, sniffing the air. And it was hungry. And it wanted to bore holes through the soft membrane of your eyeballs.

But there was also John Florence.

On stage, there could have been no greater contrast between the men. John looked as if he might have been standing in a queue, waiting to post a letter. Italo was talking to himself, trying to bite his own ear, as if he might have been queuing for methadone.

Florence needed just two waves in match one. Italo had not run out of energy as everyone seemed to think he would, but the edge of his blade was dulled.

The judges had wanted excitement to raise the stakes of the day. By bringing Italo, the number five seed, all the way through to this stage, that had been accomplished. But he was never supposed to take the title from the man who everyone wanted to win it.

In match two Florence’s first wave was a prophecy fulfilled. His final layback turn was creationism itself. Italo could not do it, could never do it.

Richie Lovett’’s analysis and yellow circles drawn over slow motion footage was a fruitless attempt to explain art. There is no explanation. There is only witness.

And just as John Florence has so often been underscored throughout his career because judges know his potential, so today the prophecy was realised. 9.70.

 

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There were other waves, but none really mattered. The right man won, but the setting was still beneath him. It was like watching an F1 driver lap a go-kart track.

Florence joins a list of other universally popular three-time champs in Tom Curren, Andy Irons, Mick Fanning, and, crucially, Gabriel Medina.

Does this leave him happy with what he’s done in professional surfing? Is he satiated by three titles?

In the immediate aftermath with Strider in the water, John was teary. It clearly meant a lot to him. He thanked his family and friends, most of whom had travelled to California to support him. Strider, to his credit, mentioned next year’s finals in Fiji. What did John think of that prospect?

“Sounds epic,” said John, noncommittally.

On the stage later he said that a new approach to competition had been key to his success. “I’m just gonna surf like I surf with my friends and brothers at home. That’s my happy place.”

Which begs the question: why bother to compete at all?

But then he mentioned Gabriel Medina, and how it felt good to equal his tally of titles.

And so we’re no clearer on John’s future.

If he walks away no-one would blame him, nor accuse him of underachievement. But I sense that John’s draw to competition is perhaps stronger than is widely acknowledged. I sense he still thinks there’s something left on the table, that he can do even more.

We might, just might, be setting up for the rivalry we’ve always wanted. Florence as champion, healthy, feeling good about competing.

Medina with his back against the wall and a point to prove.

And that, friends and foes, will be worth watching.

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Fantasy-gate takes sinister turn as World Surf League corrects major calculation error under cover of darkness

"Screw the clowns that will never understand surfing and support the frothy core lords!"

Yesterday, both fans and casual observers of professional surfing were shocked to learn that the World Surf League had made a major calculation error as it relates to its much-ballyhooed Fantasy Surfer offering. Absolute pandemonium ensued with “irregularities in the scores posted on the WSL fantasy surfing app.” The commissioner of the Froth World Tour took it upon himself to find answers, seeing as money, surfboards, etc. hinged on getting the mathematics right. With a deep dive into the scores, the good sir found “there are points variances in the WSL Finals Overall Leaderboard and the individual Finals Event point totals.”

Disaster.

But on purpose? The World Surf League is known for a sadistic approach when concerning its most passionate, most loyal subjects. It might be imagined that various C-Suite executives sat back in the League’s new shared veterinarian offices deriving much pleasure from the cries of fans intermingling with the dying gasps of euthanized cats.

Well, per the norm at the “global home of surfing,” the problem was sorted under cover of darkness with no explanation offered as to how things went so wrong, leaving fantasy leagues in a real bind.

Reaching back out to the Froth Pro Tour commish for answers, it was shared, “They quietly made the update 24hrs later without acknowledging the major calculation error potentially making the most loyal fans with private leagues recall their final results and awards/payouts. As the most core of the core fan base it calls into question, can we trust the scores on the WSL platform? What would have happened if the super fans didn’t bring this to the WSLs attention? Would the scores ever have been updated?”

Furthermore, “As the commish for over a decade, in general the WSL does a poor job of catering to the super fans of fantasy surfing.”

Lastly, “We are here to improve fantasy surfing for all. There is a huge opportunity for the WSL to engage with the core who tune in for the call every morning, and wake up in the middle of the night to edit our fantasy teams. As fantasy surf fans we would love to see warm up days, and early morning or after the event free surfs. The WSL is laser focused on attracting new audiences, and while know this is an important part to becoming a profitable business, we need them to invest the loyal base. The WSL has done a great job broadcasting from the remote corners on the globe and can do more for the frothiest fans.”

In other words, “Screw the clowns that will never understand surfing and support the frothy core lords!”

So there you have it.

Did you think, for a 24 moment, that you won your fantasy surf league only to have whatever pride/accolades ripped from your hand?

A walk of shame, no doubt.

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Peter King (left) MAHAing.
Peter King (left) MAHAing.

Influential surf personality Peter King waxes nostalgic for day when flu was cured with chicken soup not communism

A simpler time.

Tonight, at 6 pm sharp PST, Republican presidential nominee Donald J. Trump and Democratic presidential nominee Kamala Harris will take the stage in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania in order to present their vision for the future of America. Surfers from Ocean Pacific to Ocean Atlantic will likely have one eye on the television, noting policy differences, etc. and the other on the phone wherein the notable surf personality, Kelly Slater best friend and former bandmate, Peter King will undoubtedly be providing commentary and insight.

Cracking the seal early, King, who is as famous for his man-on-the-street verite interviews as his powerful backside hack, took to the public square in order to wax nostalgic about a gentler time.

“Remember when we treated the flu with chicken soup, saltines and warm tea instead of communism?” he sighed to his over 100k followers, signing off with MAHA.

The new acronym, a cousin of MAGA, stands for Make America Healthy Again and was introduced to the world by Amber Rose who became very famous for dating Kanye West. In a playful video, Rose is heard asking “Who wants a shake?” The camera pans to Robert F. Kennedy Jr, who recently endorsed Trump, shrugging and performing the dance sensation Harlem Shake. Rose then says, “no silly,” and points to a blender filled with fruits and vegetables.

The sentiment mostly the same as King’s though without a nod to an economic ideology that went mostly out of vogue in the 1990s.

A simpler time.

Flu season is, anyhow, almost upon us once more and how do you treat the aches and pains, fever and chills? I like to pretend to be tough and gut it out but, in reality, laze in bed and whine.

MANTA.

Making America Needlessly Theatrical Again.

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Caity Simmers wins world title
Messiah of Cool Caity Simmers, surfing's youngest-ever world champ. | Photo: WSL/Pat Nolan

BeachGrit’s Finals Day live commentary stream “alive, fast, unexpectedly funny”

"What if my true destiny is to sit in front of a computer chattering away with a bunch of dudes I’ve never met in real life about a surf contest none of us are attending?"

It started as a great idea, or so I told myself.

Attend the last ever (knock on wood) Final Five at Trestles and give BG readers a “man of the people” perspective, a sort of “what happens when a middle-aged kook shows up and mingles with the two percenters” thing.

It would be different than the shit I usually dump on this site, i.e., musings on stuff from the 80s and 90s that only live deep in a hazy past, occasionally tinged with a touch of regret.

“Look to the future” they said below the line of those prior memory dumps.

“Quit name dropping old Florida surf dudes and live your life, for fuck’s sake.”

“Points taken,” I thought. “Let’s live the future.”

I floated the whole idea to Mrs. Rocks a month or so ago.

“So there’s this surf contest in San Clemente,” I said.

“It’s where they crown the world title winner, which I’m philosophically opposed to seeing as the surf spot where they hold the contest is pretty soft, but after this year it’s going to Fiji and attending it there would be a whole thing, yadda, yadda, so what say we do a quick strike mission to SoCal and catch it this year?”

“When is it?” asked Mrs. Rocks.

A reasonable question.

After all, in addition to being a sapphire-eyed smoke show, Mrs. Rocks is an accomplished business person with a real schedule.

The kind of professional who snaps her fingers and tilts her head a certain way and causes dozens of minions to trip over themselves to bring her coffee and spare laptop cords.

The kind of person for whom the Wozzle’s scheduling peculiarities and randomness are a fucked-up nightmare.

“Uuhhh, well,” I mumbled. “So there’s a week or maybe 10-day window in September, and it could be any day in the window, and I’m not sure when they’ll hold it, we might not know until a day or two before.”

Mrs. Rocks looked at me funny and tilted her head. I scrambled to make her coffee.

She sipped the java thoughtfully, her brow furrowed in that way important people’s brows furrow when they’re thinking deeply about stuff.

“I’m not saying no,” she said after a few moments, “but it would help if you could tell me when it is.”

For the next couple of weeks I scoured the world wide web.

I scanned buoys, read Swellnet’s prediction, refreshed Surfline every few hours, perused whatever (scant) details I could find published on the WSL website, and watched the Wozzle’s pathetic and utterly useless (in terms of actionable info) “informational” video on the Final Five — I even played voyeur in the Florence clan’s respective IGs for hints of their travel schedules.

I may as well have been shoveling smoke with a pitchfork, to borrow a phrase from some backwoods plow farmers. Intel was practically nonexistent.

But slowly, like an incoming tide on a quarter moon in the Gulf of Mexico, data began to creep forth.

Signs increasingly pointed to the beginning of the window. Maybe day one of that window. The forecast sucked, but kind of seemed to perhaps suck slightly less on day one, which is to say Friday, September 6.

Clearly an over promise/under deliver situation, contestable surf wise — but whatever, at least there was a semblance of something to communicate to Mrs. Rocks.

Meanwhile, though, there were rumblings on my side of the capitalist pursuits table. I don’t have any minions serving me, but I do have an actual job.

And for several months, different powers that be in my line of work had been murmuring about the dire need to hold an in-person meeting to get “same paged” on certain high-priority projects, to make sure there would be “alignment” and “direction” moving forward.

Then, at roughly the same time the surf forecast started to come into focus, an email arrived from the grand poobahs who decide these kinds of things.

“In-person meetings, New York City, September 4 and 5. Be there and don’t plan to skip out early, or we will remember such things and one day pounds of flesh will be extracted.”

I was bitter. Crestfallen even.

Given the NYC meeting schedules, combined with cross-country commercial flight patterns, and, even with a red eye, commuting from LAX down to San Clemente, the chances of me being on the trail to Lower Trestles at first light on September 6 were basically nil.

The reality of the meetings didn’t help. This wasn’t my first NYC rodeo and unfortunately wouldn’t be my last.

For those of you in other hemispheres (or Cali) who have only seen New York City in movies, here’s the reality of a business meeting in Manhattan — it can be a pain in the ass.

The upside is direct flights are easy to find. It goes downhill from there.

My meetings were scheduled in SoHo (roughly in the vicinity of the intersection of Hudson and Houston Streets, for the geo-trackers among us), which sounds cool when they say it on reruns of Sex and the City but is way less cool when you’re navigating a sidewalk there at 8:30 on a post-Labor Day Wednesday morning with a hustling throng of brand new acquaintances, all of whom seem as relentlessly focused on getting to a position ahead of you as a Portuguese-speaking surfer in a Bali lineup.

When you make it to your destination, the buildings inevitably look retro chic from the outside, like the hippest person you know re-imagined a suburban office park using street pictures from the 1940s as inspiration.

But you may as well be living in the 1940s when you walk inside. The elevator dimensions are apparently planned with a half-dozen moderately-sized whippets in mind, the wifi works about as you might expect in a structure with walls of four-foot-thick concrete, and finding accessible electric outlets for high-falutin contraptions like MacBooks is akin to digging for T-Rex bones in Otto’s Montana backyard.

And don’t get me started on Manhattan hotels. You know you’re in NYC if you can pee in the toilet and simultaneously open the door to your hotel room without leaving your bed.

It was inevitable though. Seemingly no way around it.

But in the spirit of a long line of reckless American adventurers who defy the odds and shoot for the stars — think Amelia Earhart or Ben Gravy — I held on tight to the dream.

Maybe, just maybe, after day one of the New York meetings someone would realize how utterly useless I was and tell me my input was no longer needed.

Then I could hop on an early flight, sweep the intoxicating Mrs. Rocks off her feet, drop the kids at a babysitter yet to be found, and arrive in SoCal just in time for Heat 1.

Preposterous?

Yes!

But so was the idea of a moon landing before old JFK put it on the USA’s bucket list.

I hopped a Delta flight nonstop to LaGuardia in the late evening of September 3. On the multi-hour flight east, I listened to Chas and DLS yammer on about New Jersey beach cops and ChatGPT podcast name outputs.

I drank a Miller Lite straight from the can because it was the first beer the flight attendant pulled out of her ice drawer, and I scarfed a full bag of airplane chips. I topped it all off with some Biscoff cookies, a delicacy that tastes 26% better at over 30,000 feet.

A yellow cab dropped me at my hotel front door close to midnight. Upon checking in my room, I was delighted to discover that I could take two full steps between the toilet and bed.

Day one in New York dawned clear and sparkling, one of those early fall days where even thickets of skyscrapers can’t keep the sunshine from dancing on sidewalks like a chipper first grader on her birthday morning.

The local pedestrians were in an unusually good mood, the normal sidewalk paddle battles replaced by what can only be described as a party wave vibe.

I was truly worried. I needed disgruntled grand poobahs, not happy ones. I needed them cynical and jaded, ticked off and tired, ready to bust chops and kick weak links to the curb, or at least out of the meetings after day one.

I walked in the conference room. There were pots of fresh-brewed coffee against one wall, danishes and fruit against another. I poured myself a cup of hot black brew and took a seat at the very end of the lengthy conference table, as far from the top guns gathered at the head of the table as I could get.

But the meeting didn’t start. I waited. Fifteen minutes passed. There was no sense of urgency.

Everyone mingled by the danish table, chuckling and chewing. They all seemed as giddy as the sidewalk pedestrians, the party wave vibe extending to these typically stodgy environs.

This was too much.

After 20 minutes, I couldn’t take it any longer.

I stood up and cleared my throat, loudly. The chewing and chuckling continued.

So then I clambered up on the conference table. I stuck my fingers in my mouth and did my best coaches’ whistle, the one I’d perfected over the years that could be heard across several city blocks.

People turned and stared, half-eaten cherry danishes dangling from their shocked fingers — I swear I saw coffee drop down the chin of a regional manager from West Virginia.

“Listen,” I bellowed, louder than intended. “There is a mother-fucking-world-title-deciding surf contest happening Friday morning in Southern California. I intend to be standing on the beach when that thing kicks off shortly after dawn.”

“So if you motherfuckers don’t put your butts in your seats and get this little shindig rolling, I’m going to cold cock every last one of you and leave you on the mean streets of Manhattan for the concrete shoe types to find.”

Just then the grandest Poobah of all snapped me out of my daydream, back from my imaginary throat-clearing and whistling and speech-making and straight into cold hard reality, the one where instead of yelling hard truths at the danish and coffee crowd I instead slumped by myself in an unpadded chair in the back of a drab conference room, morose and mute, staring at my now lukewarm coffee.

“Let’s get rolling people,” he snapped.

“Rocks, we’re going to have to punt your piece to day two, more important shit happening today.”

“I am so fucked,” I thought.

I wished I had actually in real life climbed the table and screamed at them. Maybe then they would have concluded I was cuckoo and let me out early.

The day droned on, mercifully ending eventually, but not before I consumed a few gallons of coffee and a half-dozen or so stale danishes, leaving me bloated and even more bitter.

September 5 was no better.

I yammered on about some stuff in my presentation and then fielded more questions in one day of meeting than I had in the prior two years of work with this crew.

At 12:14 p.m. EST, as if to intentionally pour salt in an open wound, my phone buzzed.

It was breaking news from the WSL, announcing that they were on “yellow alert,” with a “probable start in next 24 hours.”

I sighed and screenshot the alert for posterity. I looked out the conference room windows at the sea of skyscrapers and yellow cabs.

The windows were sealed tight, there was no escape.

Fast forward many long hours to the late evening of Thursday, September 5.

I sat in a chair at LaGuardia, staring out the window at airport construction and malingering baggage handlers. My flight was, predictably, delayed.

My Final Five dream lay in shattered pieces on the industrial carpet all around me.

I made it home, eventually. Once airborne, the long flight was uneventful and mercifully uncrowded, like the universe was finally throwing me a tiny bone.

September 6 awoke crisp and clear back at the homestead, temps in the 50s, birds twittering, and the sky so vast and blue I almost believed in god again.

I crawled out of from under the sheets, still groggy from the late night flight, reluctantly leaving the steaming hot company of Mrs. Rocks.

I clicked on the Final Five stream, a few minutes into the first women’s heat. I opened the BG live chat.

I was still bitter. Divided. Planning just to peek at the show for a second and bail.

If I couldn’t be there live, why be there at all?

But the chat was alive. Comments flew thick, fast and unexpectedly funny.

Warshaw and Jen See were mixing it up with the mortals, and, judging by the rapid-fire pace of the commentary, the regulars appeared to be keeping up with Italo’s Red Bull consumption.

Like a bonefish hitting fresh shrimp, I was hooked.

I kept trying to tear myself away in an attempt to do some real work but couldn’t help getting reeled back in.

At one point, Hippy said something about the chat making all things Final Five adjacent just a little better.

I wondered if my original dream of live action was really just the wrong dream all along.

What if my true destiny was to sit in front of a computer instead of out under the sunshine, chattering away with a bunch of dudes I’ve never met in real life about a surf contest none of us (or very few of us) are actually attending?

What if being summoned to New York was a blessing, not a curse?

Right then, JJF torqued a massive snap, nose fully picked and spray flying to the horizon.

The sight of his board buried in the clear Pacific water, the sun shining and cobblestones glistening, snapped me back to reality, horrified at what I had almost become, shuddering at the sight of the dark virtual abyss into which I had nearly toppled.

“Hey babe, have you ever wanted to go to Fiji?” I yelled to the other room.

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Surfing’s youngest-ever world champ Caity Simmers hailed as “messiah of cool” after giving finger to rival in Finals Day outburst

New and possibly fatal crack in the WSL's wall of Positive Noise!

If there was any lingering doubt about the quantum leap in performance in women’s surfing this year, well, it sure was curb-stomped for good on Friday when Caity Simmers and Caroline Marks  delivered a three-heat performance for the ages.

Caity Simmers, the girl with skin like pastry crust left in the sun for a week, took every turn to the brink of disaster while Olympic gold medallist Caroline Marks invited favourable comparisons to the great Mark Occhilupo, even if the red bikini-swathed Jen See labelled her surfing, incorrectly I felt, as “overscored and mentronomic.

But new world champ Caity Simmers, who at eighteen years and 316 days became the youngest world surfing champ in history, has thrilled surf fans tired of the “toddler-friendly” WSL by giving her opponent the finger at the conclusion of the first of their best-of-three heats.

Here’s the play:

The camera is on Caroline’s final wave – which she claims with a cutesy little dancey bit. Then, it swings direct onto Caity Simmers. And she’s givin’ the finger. The girl commentator laughs, “There’s Caity just getting the jetski ride.” Which makes it even funnier! Caity’s also funny because she does it with her right hand, then with her left, is like, wait, don’t do that. Ha!

Caroline’s score hasn’t dropped yet. Caity’s had already come in, it’s an 8.3 which betters her total. So, I think not the judges getting the finger. Also, there’s that bit in her post-heat inty, where she’s, like, “She fucking wins everything” about Caro. So, feisty!

Caity Simmers’ “Pipeline for the fucking girls” moment, oft incorrectly taken as “Pipeline is for the fucking girls” was a window into her Miki Dora-esque mindset and which kicked off her credentials as the messiah of cool.

This cements it.

I think you’ll agree. Yes?

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