Connor O’Leary called “the Scarlett Johnansson of Surfing” by important tastemaker
By Chas Smith
Where do you sit when it comes to backside surfing?
As you certainly know, by now, David Lee Scales and I get together two times a week to chat about many things. On Friday, those conversations generally center around surf. Well, controversy exploded from last week’s Grit! after I openly declared that professional backhand surfing does nothing for me. The monotony, ungainliness, lack of poetry really gets me down and especially after the J-Bay Open where two goofies traded lip bashes on right-running walls that would have been delicately inscribed by our regular brothers and sisters.
Scales very much disagreed and we went back and forth, continuing the fight through today wherein we finally settled on the root of the issue.
David Lee holds the buttocks in the highest regard.
That’s what I remember most, from J-Bay. Connor O’Leary’s ample rump sky high, focus of all.
Now, I find the caboose fine, but it is not the pinnacle of the human body and when it is elevated such, especially during backside surfing, it creates a farcical ugly display. Scales, on the other hand, appreciates most though admitted that all booties are not created equal.
There is the farcical one, say Kim Kardashian’s, which is represented, in surfing, by Italo Ferreira. Then, he claimed, there is the perfect one like Scarlett Johansson’s, which he likened to Connor O’Leary. Yago Dora, he continued, a Natalie Portman.
I agreed that those were accurate but am not won over to bottom elevation in surfing. I don’t like it and don’t think I’m wrong.
But, no pun intended, where do you sit? All things equal, would you rather watch two women, or men, trade waves facing the shore, coiling, then accentuating derrière or do you prefer the more stately facing the wave then popping the lip with head held high?
I ain’t talking about doing backside surfing, either. I know it feels fine. I’m talking about watching it.
Listen then opine.
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Surfer (pictured) stupefied.
Surfers rocked to core as “most frustrating beaches in the world” list released
By Chas Smith
It ain't the Epstein Files but at least it's something...
Surfers around the globe are in shock, this morning, staggering like drunkards around parquet floor’d living rooms, trying to make sense of a reality that has been flipped upside down. The cause of such consternation? Travel + Leisure, the first name in both travel and leisure, releasing its highly anticipated “most frustrating beaches in the world” list.
The august publication used information dragged from Tripadvisor reviews, focusing on the keywords: dirtiness, overcrowding, long lines, and noise. It then attached a “complaint score” between zero and one hundred based on frequency. Afterwards, the numbers were put into a hopper, spun by a magic computer and boom.
The most frustrating beaches in the world.
Surfers in the United States and Australia imagining the top five to be in Brazil.
Surfers in Brazil thinking number one in Tahiti.
Shock, then, when Oahu’s famed Waikiki took the ignominy followed by California’s Venice. Playa Manuel Antonio, in Costa Rica, came third. Clearwater Beach, in Florida and where Hulk Hogan’s heart just stopped pumping, fourth. Bournemouth Beach in jolly old England, fifth. La Jolla Cove, in America’s finest San Diego, sixth. Bondi, home to Derek Rielly, ninth.
Mauricio Preuss, CEO of the company tasked with compiling the list, tried to comfort surfers by declaring, “The most rewarding beach experiences might be found at lesser-known destinations that haven’t yet been overwhelmed by mass tourism. Sometimes the best paradise is the one that isn’t trending on TikTok.”
But to no avail.
Honolulu and Venice, La Jolla and Bondi will never be the same.
In all honesty, I’m a massive Waikiki fan and hope online complainers keep it coming.
Which beach would you rank number one?
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Billy Kemper, gruesomely injured in Mexican wipeout.
Surf community rallies around big-wave champ Billy Kemper gruesomely injured in Mexican wipeout
By Derek Rielly
“OMG. Trigger warning first. Did not expect to open Instagram and see that.”
The big-wave world champ and four-time Jaws winner Billy Kemper, a man who famously who survived a near-fatal wipeout in Morocco in 2020, busted Kegel, burst lung, wrecked kneecap and ribs, an event that was made into a brilliant series by the great Erik Logan, has posted a gruesome vid of his leg after his latest surf crash, this time in Mexico.
“You gotta pay to play,” writes Billy Kemper. “On the last day of my trip I took a bad fall and the nose of my surf board stabbed me through my hamstring and hitting my femur so hard that my first thought was, I broke my leg! After taking 5 solid waves on my head I realized it wasn’t broken and that I had a massive hole in my leg. Rushed to the hospital in Mexico to get sewed up and then straight to LA to get a MRI for @doctor.masi to make sure there wasn’t anything still in there or any ligament / tendon damage. Honestly this was so close to being much worse and I am beyond grateful that I’m walking away from this one.”
Pro surfers were quick to offer sympathy but also a little philosophy.
“The other side of fun!” writes Parker Coffin.
Others were made a little spewy by the videos graphic nature.
“OMG. Trigger warning first.”
“Did not expect to open instagram and see that.”
“Jesus Billy. No warning.”
I force myself to watch surgical videos, and I urge you too, so when the time comes and a pal is sitting there on the deck of a boat with his skull flap draping over his face and its either you stitch it up or he dies, you’re in there with needle, thread and a stoicism you wish you never had to employ.
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Kelly Slater and faith-healer Charlie Goldsmith. Four years ago, the surfing world was introduced to the celebrated faith-healer, Kelly Slater’s “secret weapon”, in an episode of the excellent WSL series Sound Waves. | Photo: WSL Sound Waves
Kelly Slater slammed as a “pseudo-intellectual jackass” in cruel reddit thread
By Derek Rielly
“The problem with stupid people reaching an elite level that they often make the mistake of thinking they're an elite person in general.”
What follows is a long and, let’s be frank unfair and unnecessarily cruel, examination of Kelly Slater’s medical expertise.
It’s really important to remember that pro athletes are generally really fucking stupid
And that’s just normal professional athletes. It’s another level when you ride a board of any kind professionally.
Surfer lacking a college education thinks he’s smarter than doctors and specialists that spent most of their lives studying medicine and infectious diseases. Dunning-Kruger in full effect. Shocker.
Perhaps he should stick to what he knows which is selling overpriced clothes and gear that I’ve never seen a veteran surfer wear.
Pro surfers with few exceptions are some of the dumbest motherfuckers you could ever encounter. Shut up Kelly. No one is listening. ‘ Someone should explain to him that viruses mutate. And that the larger pool of hosts a virus has the more scope it has to mutate… to mutate into variants that aren’t protected by existing vaccines. It is socially irresponsible to not get vaccinated, you risk not just your own health but the health of those you come into contact with.
No, it would be impossible to explain this concept in a simple enough way to someone as dense as Kelly Slater. Even if you stuck the landing he’d be like “sounds like some science BS… I’m just going to stick to drinking my Maca and call it good.” He is great at surfing though.
What a douchebag. You’d think the most legendary surfer of all time who is extremely wealthy would just wanna surf and enjoy the rest of his life being happy
Is this recent?? Did he wake up and realize no one gives a shit about him anymore so he is just bringing back the hits?? I think it is important to remember that surfing is not without its traumatic brain injuries – and a guy like Slater has taken a lot of hits to the head in his career. It probably looks like a pillowcase full of old cottage cheese up in there.
Slater is full on the male equivalent to that hippy tumeric smoothy Mom that started at “namaste”, got into Chem trails, then Q Annon, then anti vaxxing, and now somehow hates brown people.
Damnit, Kelly. Suffered too many hits to the head?
Why is it that the most notable surfers feel the most compelled to voice their dumbass opinions?
The problem with stupid people reaching an elite level in their field is that they often make the mistake of thinking they’re just an elite person in general.
Kelly Slater infuriates me. Back in like 2016/2017 he was calling for a bull shark cull in the Réunion islands after all of the attacks and said that their population was “too large” and they were outcompeting other species. Like ???? They’re supposed to be there?? Good to know, aside from being a conservationist, he’s also a public health professional now.
There’s a line in that momentum generation film where Kelly says, and I’m paraphrasing here as I don’t remember it exactly, something like ‘even though I’m in my 50s I still feel like I’m 18’. He said it like that was a good thing.
So many people in this realm are so stupid. What would they say if a Dr. told them about surfing or board design. General problem is today that anyone with money is showered with praise and thinks they know everything.
Kelly is indisputably the greatest competitive surfer of all time, but he’s also a pseudo-intellectual jackass who seems to be convinced that he’s an unusually intelligent person.
Kelly’s medical opinions are worth about as much as my doctor’s surfing skills, and my doctor doesn’t surf.
The two comments defending Kelly Slater were most ignored and subsequent responses were deleted by the moderator perhaps for containing obscenities.
In hindsight, he was right, and I and many other Australians who thought he was crazy were wrong.
And
I can’t believe the sentiment of this thread. I agree with Kelly and given the choice now I wouldn’t take the Covid shots back in 2020.
Which side of the coin do you fall? Heads, he crazy, tails, well, that vaccine thing, in this case at least, was right.
I take the latter although, for perspective, I also believe the moon landing is real and that jihadists took down the towers. And, as a light contradiction, I also believe the Israeli’s knew the USS Liberty was the USS Liberty and that there’s a real creepy side to Barack Obama, whom I formerly adored.
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Surfers celebrate wildly as new WSL Chief Revenue Officer spews next level corpo babble!
By Chas Smith
"I see tremendous opportunity to create impactful, purpose-driven partnerships that connect brands to this culture in authentic, meaningful ways."
It has been a difficult few years to be a fan of professional surfing at it’s highest level. The World Surf League, formerly based in Santa Monica, now who knows where, eviscerated its former CEO Erik “ELo” Logan, much loved for wearing the skin of timid champions, dispatched the bygone commissioner Jessi Miley-Dyer with barely a wink and moved “Finals Day” from Lower Trestles to Fiji without asking anyone.
Difficult times.
Understood, then, the unbridled joy reverberating through the surf world as it announced its latest Chief Revenue Officer.
The World Surf League (WSL) today announced the appointment of Nicole Metzger as Chief Revenue Officer. Metzger joins the WSL with more than two decades of commercial leadership experience across professional and collegiate sports where she has driven transformational revenue growth, high-impact brand partnerships, and innovative licensing strategies at some of the world’s most recognized sports organizations. In this role, Metzger will oversee the WSL’s global partnerships, licensing, and business development functions, while leading efforts to advance the league’s commercial strategy. Additionally, she will lead the Partnership team to drive innovation through business development and partnership strategy.
Metzger most recently served as the Chief Sales and Partnerships Officer for the Ladies Professional Golf Association (LPGA), driving revenue and overseeing partnership strategy. In her role, Metzger led the Partnership teams to cultivate innovative global partnerships across the LPGA, including securing breakthrough women’s sports lifestyle collaborations that garnered national attention. Metzger is a commercial leader with experience in optimizing assets, scaling revenue, and modernizing sales structures to maximize performance. Metzger’s ability to connect sports properties with global brands to drive revenue and generate purpose-led partnerships will have an instrumental role in the WSL’s continued growth and success.
“Nicole brings significant experience and success in sports partnerships and revenue generation to the WSL,” said Ryan Crosby, Chief Executive Officer. “She is joining us at a pivotal time, as we look to expand our global footprint through our commercial partnerships. Nicole’s extensive background in driving partnerships through innovative approaches will no doubt progress our continued growth and future success.”
“I am absolutely thrilled to join the WSL at such a dynamic moment for the league and the sport,” said Nicole Metzger, Chief Revenue Officer. “Surfing is not just a sport—it’s a global lifestyle with an incredibly passionate and engaged community. I see tremendous opportunity to create impactful, purpose-driven partnerships that connect brands to this culture in authentic, meaningful ways. I’m honored to help lead the WSL into its next phase of growth and global influence.”
Metzger’s diverse senior leadership positions include her role as Vice President, Partnerships, Activation, Analytics, and Special Events Miami Dolphins, where she co-led the negotiation of one of the largest NFL stadium naming rights deals for Hard Rock Stadium. During her time with the Charlotte Hornets as Vice President, Partnership Development, she secured the franchise’s first-ever jersey patch sponsorship. She also worked for the NBA Team Marketing & Business Operations (TMBO), where she was hand-selected by Commissioner David Stern to support the Sacramento Kings’ ownership transition and drive commercial strategies to fund a new arena. Prior to her role with the LPGA, she served as the Chief Revenue Officer at JMI Sports/Clemson University, where she expanded multimedia rights and launched the Clemson Campus Digital Network.