But what radical aggression!
So a few days ago I was out surfing a very good run of swell at my local reef break. I mean beach break. I mean what is Cardiff-by-the-Sea’s Pipes? There are rock things there somewhere but I wouldn’t call it a reef because, I don’t know, it’s not tropical and ummmm but… anyway I was surfing and it was a very good day with pumping rights and throaty lefts and I was killing it on a brand new Matt Biolos Puddle Jumper courtesy of Matt Biolos and Derek Rielly.
Devil-may-care floaters. “Hacks.” Etc.
I was surfing rad but got out of the water because I had to post a story about Dane Reynolds and Craig Anderson’s Former too early but… awesome… a surf photographer babe was standing on the shore and she said, “I got some great shots of you today…” and handed me a card that read SanDiegoSurfPhotos.com on one side and “You were shredding today! I got the proof!” on the other side.
I gave her a cool guy chortle, took the card and hiked up the incline.
Later that night, after lots of boozes, kuriosity killed the kat and I klicked onto sandiegosurfphotos.com and found my shredding picture.
It is the one you see above.
I am a dickhead.
Doing a dickhead turn on a wave? Is that a wave?
In my defense. Wait. I don’t have a defense. I was doing a dickhead turn on the flat ocean.
So yeah. I am a dickhead. But so are you (I hope. Please be a dickhead too. Can we be friends?).