But what radical aggression!
So a few days ago I was out surfing a very good run of swell at my local reef break. I mean beach break. I mean what is Cardiff-by-the-Sea’s Pipes? There are rock things there somewhere but I wouldn’t call it a reef because, I don’t know, it’s not tropical and ummmm but… anyway I was surfing and it was a very good day with pumping rights and throaty lefts and I was killing it on a brand new Matt Biolos Puddle Jumper courtesy of Matt Biolos and Derek Rielly.
Killing it!
Devil-may-care floaters. “Hacks.” Etc.
I was surfing rad but got out of the water because I had to post a story about Dane Reynolds and Craig Anderson’s Former too early but… awesome… a surf photographer babe was standing on the shore and she said, “I got some great shots of you today…” and handed me a card that read SanDiegoSurfPhotos.com on one side and “You were shredding today! I got the proof!” on the other side.
I gave her a cool guy chortle, took the card and hiked up the incline.
Later that night, after lots of boozes, kuriosity killed the kat and I klicked onto sandiegosurfphotos.com and found my shredding picture.
It is the one you see above.
I am a dickhead.
Doing a dickhead turn on a wave? Is that a wave?
In my defense. Wait. I don’t have a defense. I was doing a dickhead turn on the flat ocean.
So yeah. I am a dickhead. But so are you (I hope. Please be a dickhead too. Can we be friends?).
Commented on Disqus? Log out, tap the Disqus button, and your old name and comments come back. The box is ours.
Your comments are still here. Every one of them.
Twelve years of BeachGrit comments came across from Disqus. Connect and we will show you how many are yours. We get your username, nothing else.
Connect Disqus to reveal.
As long as you don’t have a Go Pro pad on your deck, you won’t be a true dickhead Chas…
i posted an unforgivable movie of me in nica with a ridiculous canadian cycling hat on, mediocre H&M button up and going down the line without a turn in sight never looked so brutal. i cringe still.
post it up!!
@disqus_nEmZsdyY0S:disqus’s biggest dickhead move: not even paying for the photo!
What a satisfying profession surf photography must be. So rewarding to confirm what the subject suspects and what his/her friends already know to be true!
I concur
It’s 2017, being a dickhead is cool
That was hilarious. Nice one Chas.
I’m mostly just shocked at the stickerless board?!
But how did you unscrew the board from the Porsche’s roof racks?
I am generally a shit surfer, but here is a pic of me hungerover AF/still drunk at the local boardriders on a Biolis PsychoWard back when it was ok to love Wardo. https://uploads.disquscdn.c…
Way way way better than me. And we should make this post a confessional. Go ahead and post! You’re among “friends!”
All most mere mortals need is a wall on a head high wave with no rude dickheads in the way.
Great wave… But just more unfortunate evidence of my horrendous poo-man stance.
I seriously thought I was standing tall, arms wide like AI at Chopes until I saw the photo. https://uploads.disquscdn.c…
But look at that bomb! Yours is the 9.8 in this feed.
My poo-stance was so bad as grommet the older guys used to scream at me to stand up as I rode past them. But I’ll take the 9.8 to the grave!
bite me, you fuckers. https://uploads.disquscdn.c…
That’s why you’re Prez.
Shit, now I feel like a 3rd placed quarter finalist at the 1979 Australian Champs…
Nick that yellow Gath helmet and booties combo really suits you!
let’s just leave Camel out of this ok
ahh, to be able to bend at the knee.
are you sure you aren’t actually this? Backside but the stance is the same! https://www.youtube.com/wat…
and i say this with all due respect the little fucker is ripping
how’s the first wave?! full pit to bs nosepick! must be the john john version. followed by the mason ho backside oop… incredible!
I wish!
Im not even sure how this happens…
https://uploads.disquscdn.c…
drunk, horny dolphin
You look like a lanky Dickhead Chas!!! 6′ what
I think 6’2 or 6’3 but shrinking rapidly!
Cold water ?
Beach Grit is mining a deep vein of gold recently! There is that YouTube video “being a dickhead is cool”, worth a watch. Drinking the head off myself in a pub, don’t expect me to post a link
It’s not even lunchtime you dero/legend….
Probably on the far side of the world, fucking douche bag bouncer kicked me out my local twenty minutes ago, the fucking cunt!
Mate, I was in Geelong.
You went full dero haha
Xox
Open those shoulders, homie
Which way?
you kinda want to point your chest back at the whitewater there. your board will follow your trailing arm around. open those shoulders wide, pull with your left arm, then, boom – parko.
Yeah you kinda want to keep your stance a bit wider and stick your butt out more and throw your arms up in the air and holler a bit and then, boom – adriano
TomHouse is right!
Chas your left hand/arm is pronated (rotated inwards) and your left shoulder is internally rotated. Your arm is blocking your turn, like a steering wheel that won’t go past a point and the car won’t make the corner.
If you supernate (rotate outwards) your left hand and externally rotate your left shoulder, your head will be able to turn and look at the white water, and you will go there.
You left .01 points on the table by closing those shoulders
Hey Derek
It’s OK.
It’s OK if you’re a shit surfer with shit technique with shit style… you are a surfer nonetheless, you’re a dickhead to prove it if anyone has any doubts.
You’re actually a dickhead clickbaiting surf journalist and you’re OK at it.
It’s OK…
Ummmmmm that’s not Derek. It’s me.
Shit… I’m a dickhead commentator, I obviously meant you Chas.
(geez, am I a commentator for making comments in a forum?)